• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.321-327
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• 2014

Collagen pentapeptide (Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, KTTKS) and its palmitoylated derivative (pal-KTTKS) have received a great deal of attention as cosmeceutical ingredients for their anti-wrinkle effects. The objective of this study was to evaluate stability and permeability of KTTKS and pal-KTTKS in hairless mouse skin. In this study, a liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometric method was developed for the quantification of pal-KTTKS, and used for stability and permeability studies. Stability studies were performed using skin extracts and homogenates. Both KTTKS and pal-KTTKS were rapidly degraded, but pal-KTTKS was more stable than KTTKS. When protease inhibitors were added, the stability of both compounds (KTTKS and pal-KTTKS) improved significantly. In the skin permeation study, neither KTTKS nor pal-KTTKS was detected in the receptor solution, which indicates that neither compound could permeate through the full-thickness hairless mouse skin in the experimental conditions of this study. While KTTKS was not detected in any of the skin layers (the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis), pal-KTTKS was observed in all skin layers: $4.2{\pm}0.7{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the stratum corneum, $2.8{\pm}0.5{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the epidermis, and $0.3{\pm}0.1{\mu}g/cm^2$ in the dermis. In conclusion, this study indicated that pal-KTTKS had greater stability and permeability than that of un-modified KTTKS, and may be a useful anti-wrinkle and anti-aging cosmeceutical agent.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.191-200
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• 2018

In this study, we conducted research to find anti-wrinkle skin care ingredients from natural sources via the measurement of procollagen type 1 levels in the medium of normal human dermal fibroblast (NHDF) and found that a Nelumbo nucifera leave extract (NLE) was as the best effective ingredient. By the high performance liquid chromatography analysis, we confirmed isoquercitrin was one of the main compounds of NLE. Moreover, it also increased the procollagen type 1 production without cytotoxicity of NHDF. NLE and isoquercitrin exerted free radical scavenging activity. Especially, isoquercitrin exhibited strong intracellular antioxidant capacity in human skin-derived cells, HaCaT and NHDF. Finally, we performed clinical test for the inhibitory effect of NLE on skin wrinkle formation. A randomized study was conducted in 22 healthy female volunteers, aged between 30 and 65 yrs, with moderate to moderately severe facial wrinkles. Volunteer applied a 1.7% NLE cream (isoquercitrin 51 ppm) and a control cream at each facial side (left/right) twice daily for 8 weeks. The 1.7% NLE cream improved skin roughness through reducing the wrinkle of the craw's feet significantly without any skin side effect. Our results demonstrate that NLE and isoquercitrin can increase the collagen production and exert antioxidant activity. Therefore, we expect that the new non-toxic herbal extract, isoquercitrin-containing NLE will be interesting natural ingredient of cosmetics with anti-wrinkle efficacy.

• CELLMED
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.2.1-2.4
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• 2019

With the improvement of economic status and the desire for beauty, the interest in health and skin care is increasing. For these demands, since ages medicinal plants are in vogue. A variety of plants, cosmetics and foods with novel bioactive ingredients for skin care and beauty are under constant research and development. Skin is influenced by various factors such as Ultra-violet rays, stress, hormones and aging which together lead skin to lose elasticity, changes in pigmentation and wrinkle formation. Many medicinal plants have proven effects in skin care and beauty treatment. From this list of medicinal plants, one which is famous for its beauty, flavor and fragrance is Rosa damascene. Rosa damascene has many therapeutic action and postulated pharmacological studies such as anti-arthritic, anti-microbial, cardio protective, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, analgesic, immune-modulator, gastro-protective, and skin ameliorative effect. Research in the field of Cosmetology has proven the effect of Rosa damascene in rehydrating skin, reducing scars and stretches, acne management, lowering skin pigmentation, delaying wrinkling and is recommended as a skin vitalizing agent. In this review, the morphology, chemical constituents, and some pharmacological activity are discussed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.3
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• pp.289-295
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• 2014

In order to discover ingredients for wrinkle-care cosmetics, we prepared 70% ethanol extract from Gynostemma pentaphyllum and examined its activity on collagen synthesis using fibroblast HDFn cells. The G. pentaphyllum extract induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner without showing cell toxicity. The active constituents were isolated from the extract by solvent fractionation and chromatographic purification procedures. NMR data and literature studies led to determine the two isolated compounds as the flavonoid glycosides such as ombuine 3-O-rutinoside (1) and quercetin 3-O-rutinoside (2). The activity screening tests showed that the isolates 1 and 2 induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggested that G. pentaphyllum extract containing the flavonoids 1 and 2 could be useful as an active ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetics.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.399-404
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• 2009

This paper described the formulation of functional cosmetics and evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy in clinical test. Cosmetics were formulated with highly purified $\beta$-carotene obtained from the culture broth of recombinant E.coli cells. Edible oil for solubilizing $\beta$-carotene, vitamine E for long-term storage, detergent/stabilizer (2.0%) for the complete formation of oil/water emulsion, dimethicone (0.35%) for good skin care, and sorbitol for skin moisturizer were also added as ingredients. Physical or chemical degradation of formulated products stored at $0^{\circ}C$, $25^{\circ}C$, or $40^{\circ}C$ was not observed for 60-day testing period. In clinical test, 68% of applicants observed wrinkle decrease after 8-week treatment. This result indicates that newly formulated cosmetics have strong potential for improving wrinkle skin care.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.43 no.11
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• pp.1695-1700
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• 2014

Oriental herbal liquor (Yakju) is a type of Korean traditional alcoholic beverage that uses Nuruk and oriental herbs for fermentation. The purpose of this study was to develop cosmetic ingredients using Jubak, which is a by-product of alcoholic fermentation of oriental herbal liquor. To investigate antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging effects of Jubak, we prepared extract of Jubak and its solvent fractions. Ethyl acetate fraction (KSD E4-3) showed the most prominent free radical [1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)] scavenging activity ($SC_{50}$: 0.75 mg/mL). KSD E4-3 significantly inhibited in vitro mushroom tyrosinase activity ($IC_{50}$: 0.82 mg/mL) and reduced the melanin contents in mouse melanoma melanocyte, B16F10 cells. KSD E4-3 down-regulated protein expression of tyrosinase related proteins (TRP)-1, -2, which play key roles in melanogenesis. For anti-aging effects, inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) expression was evaluated using human keratinocyte, HaCaT cells. Treatment of HaCaT cells with KSD E4-3 reduced expression of MMP-1, -2, -9 and inhibited proteolytic activities of MMP-2, -9. These results suggest that KSD E4-3 induces down-regulation of cellular melanogenesis and protects against photoaging induced by UVB-induced damage. Thus KSD E4-3 could potentially be a valuable cosmetic ingredient.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.681-687
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• 2018

Recently, several researchers have been developing cosmetics from natural ingredients for skin whitening and anti-aging products. The red sea cucumber (RSC), Apostichopus japonicas, is a species of sea cucumber in the family stichopodiae, which is widely distributed in China, Japan, and Korea. To use Red Sea Cucumber as a cosmetic ingredient, its inhibitory effects on melanogenesis and the anti-aging effects of RSC extracts were investigated. First, a tyrosinase activity assay was performed, which showed that RSC inhibited tyrosinase activity at a concentration of $200{\mu}g/ml$. An MTT assay was carried out to evaluate cell toxicity, and the results showed that RSC extract has no cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, the mRNA expression levels of tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), tyrosinase related protein 2 (TRP-2), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), and matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs) genes treated with RSC extract in B16F10 and HaCaT cells decreased. Moreover, a wound-healing assay was performed to identify the cell regeneration effect of RSC extracts. Also, a skin turnover effect was confirmed by creating a three-dimensional cell culture with HaCaT and human fibroblasts. Altogether, the results suggested that Red Sea Cucumber may possess a high ability to induce whitening and anti-wrinkle effects as a cosmeceutical ingredient.

• Microbiology and Biotechnology Letters
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.364-370
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• 2012

In this study, the compounds of Prunus persica Flos were extracted with 70.0% acetone and were purified using a sephadex-LH-20 column chromatography. As a result, eight fractions were isolated. For whitening effects, the tyrosinase inhibitory activity was determined to be 92.2% in Fr.-8 isolated from P. persica Flos at 1.000 ppm. The melanoma cell-originated tyrosinase inhibitory effect of Fr.-8 from P. persica Flos was approximately 63.4% at 100 ppm. The inhibitory activity on melanin synthesis by Fr.-8 isolated from P. persica Flos was about 71.7% at 100 ppm concentration. For anti-wrinkling effects, the elastase inhibition activities by Fr.-5, 7 isolated from P. persica Flos were around 71.4 and 74.5% respectively at 1,000 ppm. The collagenase inhibition activity and collagen synthesis by Fr.-8 isolated from P. persica Flos was about 80.0% at 100 ppm. All these findings suggested that the fractions of P. persica Flos have great potential as cosmeceutical ingredients with whitening and anti-wrinkling effects.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.741-762
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• 2003

Ginsenosides, the major active ingredients of ginseng, show a variety of biomedical efficacies such as anti-aging, anti oxidation and anti-inflammatory activities. To understand the effects of compound K (20-O-D-glucopyranosyl-20 (S)-protopanaxadiol), one of the major metabolite of ginsenosides on the skin, we assessed the expression level of ∼ 100 transcripts in compound K-treated HaCaT cells using cDNA microarray analysis. Compound K treatment induced differential expression of 21 genes, which have been reported to be involved in the organization of ECM structure as well as defense responses in human skin cells. One of the most interesting findings is 2-fold increase in hyaluronan synthase2 (HAS2) gene expression by compound K. We found that change in expression of HAS2 gene represents a specific response of HaCaT cells to compound K because hyaluronan synthase 1, 3 was not changed by treatment with compound K. We also demonstrated that the compound K effectively induced hyaluronan synthesis in human skin cells and hairless mouse skin. The human clinical study indicates that topical application of compound K-containing oil-in-water emulsion showed improvement of xerosis, wrinkle and fine lines in the aged skin. We concluded that compound K has anti-aging effects by the induction of HAS2 gene expression and following hyaluronan synthase.

• Journal of Convergence for Information Technology
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• v.9 no.12
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• pp.286-293
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• 2019

In this study, four types of retinol, retinyl palmitate, adenocin, and polytoxylate-dretinamide, which are the ingredients of the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety Notice, included in the study. also we looked at trends in research on Sciadopitys verticillata, Prunella vulgaris, Celosia cristata L., Brazilin, Persicaria hydropiper, Astragalus membranaceus Bunge, Forsythiae Fructus, Lithospermum root, Rheum undulatum L. and Cistanche deserticola Y. C. Ma a natural material that has the efficacy of antioxidant aging. The anti-aging study so far has been found to be centered mainly on collagen production and elastase synthesis inhibition mechanisms. However, given that the aging process of the skin is caused by various ageing processes, it is believed that anti-aging studies using safe and effective natural materials that can help the skin age with various mechanisms should be conducted.