• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.296-309
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• 2020

Carol Christian Poell is a designer famous for experimental designs and presentations. Poell's actions in the fashion-world resemble Fluxus, an anti-art group that started working in the 1950s. This study analyzed the works of Poell based on the characteristics of Fluxus and then compared the works of Poell with the performance of Nam June Paik, a Fluxus artist. We conducted literature studies and case studies. We examined the works of Poell and Paik based on the four characteristics of Fluxus: iconoclasm, unity of art and life, playfulness and chance. The results were as follows. First, they were engaged in anti-aesthetic works. While Paik concentrated on the content aspect of works, Poell was more focused on formal aspects. Second, neither of them distinguished between art and life. Paik achieved it by including audiences in his works; however, Poell attained it by adopting daily spaces as a place to display presentations and use ready-made forms. Third, they showed playfulness with a satirical nuance. Paik expressed it in an erotic way; however, Poell implied it through the irrational settings of circumstance. Finally, they created works by utilizing chance. Paik focused on auditory elements and the content aspects of works; however, Poell used the coincidence of visual and tactile elements when creating his works. This study compared the works of Poell with Paik and has its significance in its usefulness to understand designers with Fluxus characteristics in the fashion industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.63-79
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• 2012

Modern art is getting more comprehensive and diversified regardless of genre in many forms due to the pluralism and anti-aesthetic trend of the time which is impacted by post modernism. This atmosphere is also applied to fashion illustration which creates synergy effect in cooperation with many different genres. This study selected Matisse' paper cut-out as the subject which would reflect the minimalism and ionism of modern plasticity. By taking this as the motive for fashion illustration, I made seven illustration works with the subject of minimalism of form and color. The conclusion of this study is as following. First, Matisse's paper cut out has controlled plasticity related to the modern ionism and it well fits the modern trend and sensibility which is appropriate for motive of fashion illustration. Second, by upgrading the technique of Matisse' paper cut-out in a modern way such as combination of hand drawing and computer graphic using Photoshop, I was able to make originative and creative illustration works with background and patterns that were closely connected with each other. Third, applying the fashion illustration to other various products is being well received now and I made my illustrations that could lead to follow up studies to apply the fashion illustration to other different products. Matisse' paper cut-our has forms, colors and patterns that can contain both commercial and artistic value. Therefore it is quite feasible for follow up research to apply into many different areas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.35-48
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper is to examine the street fashion, which is influenced by the youth culture in 1960s. Youth culture is the youth subculture which appeared multiform in the 1960s. It tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. Youth cultures as youth subculture are symbolically expressed in their style which had strong characteristics of sub-fashion and anti-fashion, and which are different from mother fashion in shape. Therefore youth subculture fashion had an effect on street fashion in the 60s. The influence that the youth culture fashion had had on the street fashion is summarized as follows: Beats fashion was intelligency look on black dress, black polo-neck shirts, black trousers, black glasses and heavy black eyeliner. Mods fashion was neat style on Edwardian suit with narrow trousers, pointer-toeshoes and smooth croped hair. Folkis fashion was ethnic look, middle east asian look, peasant look, Indian style, south america look, gypsy style, natural materials, natural dying, tie-dye, beads and hand made ornaments. Rockers fashion was violence appearance categorized 'blue collar' on black leather jacket decorated with metal studs and hand-painted insignia, blue jeans and boots for motor bike. Swinging London & the Psychedelics fashion was blend mods look with pschedelic color and motive pattern. Hippie fashion was intermix pschedelic and natural or ethnic style. It was appear to be a meaningless, unpredictable assortment of diverse items and style. Faded and tattered jeans, army jackets, vintage hat, beads, embroidered headband, white sheets, diverse theatrical costumes, sandals or bare feet, granny dress, peasant blouse, blanket cape, tie-dye T-shirts and long hair. Greasers fashion was adorned black leather jacket with chains, fringing, badges, insignia and sleeves had been crudely ripped off. They came to be known wore jeans so soaked with oil. Skinheads fashion was aggressive working class identity with donkey jacket, jeans rolled up, collarless union shirts, heavy boots, braces and hair cropped short.

• Korean System Dynamics Review
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.103-128
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• 2015

This study investigated dynamic causal relationship between CSR implementation and consumption of environmentally friendly fashion products through systems thinking. Based on literature review and empirical research, we drew causal loop diagram for CSR implementation in environmentally friendly fashion product industry. By analyzing feedback loops, we found that companies and consumers interact in the process of CSR activities. In the process of CSR implementation, companies and consumers are closely related and affect each other as stimuli and prior condition. This study suggests that companies adopt push strategy to actively create demand by developing and promoting environmentally friendly fashion products and that companies communicate with consumers in order to be recognized and rewarded by consumers for their CSR activities. In addition, this study suggests that consumers not only support companies of CSR activities but also actively boycott anti-environmental companies by collective action.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.453-464
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• 2003

This study is to analyze that the pluralism is the main aspect of the modem fashion which examines the definition and the character of the pluralism. This will also consider the pluralism that appeared on the modern fashion which is based on them. The main point of pluralism is that the world is necessarily aware of plural and difference. Also many values which is focused on the previous generation, for instance disorganize of westernism, androcentrictrism, christianism and powerful nationalism, what is called unfamiliar, heterogeneous, the others and the circumference things. As these were rehabilitated, morality, ethics, religion or politics were all became possible to choose for one's taste. The pluralism expressed in modern fashion can be divided as collapse of genre, grafting the lower and higher orders cultivation, variety way of approaching in time, internationalism. The result for the consideration is that the pluralism has candid attitude for everything so that in the modern fashion is importing variety range of artistic definition. Namely, it is not only containing previous pure art, elegance art and element of artistic sublime beauty, but also has aesthetics of ugliness, deconstructive art and anti-fashion so that the definition of the art is getting vagueness and diverse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.161-178
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• 1999

In contemporary fashion metal have used which is as the material with a sufficient potentiality of expression which is displayed by an unique characteristic involved only in metal. In this paper metal expressed in contemporary fashion is researched. The first thing the formative characteristic of metal is researched under the consideration of type technique and color of metal used in contemporary fashion. Metals such as gold silver bronze aluminum thin lead and iron are usually used in fashion and those metals are used in various types such a thread fabric board leaf a and cable. Those types of metal as above are applied to the clothing by the techniques of weaving embroidering metal leaf printing or moulding which gives the formative characteristic to the clothing. In color metal has an effect on the colors of surroundings by its smooth and unique luster and its effect of reflection and produces the visual formative characteristic through the effects of contrast. The esthetic will of metal expressed in modern fashion is researched in this study under the facts studied as above. first metal expresses the future oriented esthetic Second metal has the characteristic of attracting the attention Third metal is used as valid techniques to express the artistic formation for clothing escaping from the idea that the clothing is only for wearing. Finally metal is used as an anti-cultural tool of fighting against the existing order or spirit.

• Archives of design research
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.159-168
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• 2003

Modern fashion shop is changed by the changing of fashion style. And as purchasing pattern is changed to consuming pattern which has strong individuality, functions as space which reflet characteristics of products and consumers in order to present sensitive and individual image are also required, besides conventional concept as space which simply focused on sale. Meanwhile, in the 1980's, the fashion presented retro mood modernly by popularization of post-modernism and introduced minimalism that is one of the anti-cultures in the 1960's. Recently minimalistic trends which are expressed by various attempts and a new point of view are introduced to the fashion shop by interior designer. Therefore, in this study, minimalistic characteristics which appear in the composition of interior space of the modern fashion shop are researched by theoretical consideration and analysis of examples and consistent direction of fashion shop is presented.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2009

This research covers the ways in which typography, which has been expressed in a diverse range of fields and changed communication functions from the era of reading to the era of feeling according to the change in the times and social demands, has been represented in modem fashion, along with examining its inherent aesthetic characteristics. I reviewed the general information of typography's fundamental notions and functions through documented records, and analyzed the inherent aesthetic characteristics by examining the typographical patterns shown in modem fashion based on art works in domestic and international collections after 2000. The result of this research is that typography in modem fashion has been used for improving brand image, expressing social slogans, expressing images, linguistic function for playful expression and the interdependent relationships of modeling functions. Typography in modem fashion has always been diversely expressed harmoniously with linguistic and modeling functions. Through this, the aesthetic characteristics were firstly parodies through direct sentences addressing political and social ideologies, economic gaps, environmental issues and anti-war protests. Secondly, by using brand logos, typography was used as a commercial means like brand-image transfer and separation through customization of other brands. Thirdly, the aesthetic and artistic value of fashion were expressed after being used as experimental visual components like image, motive and patterns which are all elements of fashion design. Fourthly, by distortion and transformation of characters or childish decorations, along with the harmonization of words, cathartic humor was provided for the calloused senses of modern people.