• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.310-325
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• 2015

The market for counterfeit luxury fashion goods is proliferating across the globe. In an effort to provide some insight into this phenomenon, this study aimed to identify the antecedents of attitudes toward counterfeits of luxury fashion goods. As antecedents, counterfeit proneness and attitudes toward counterfeiting were considered. It was hypothesized that counterfeit proneness not only influences attitudes toward counterfeits of luxury fashion goods directly but also indirectly through attitudes toward counterfeiting. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul, using convenience sampling. Three hundred five questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. The results showed that all the fit statistics for the variable measures were quite acceptable. In addition, the overall fits of the hypothesized model suggest that the model fits the data well. Factor analysis revealed that counterfeit proneness and attitudes toward counterfeits of luxury fashion goods were uni-dimensional and that attitudes toward counterfeiting were two dimensional, which are 'normatively less susceptible' and 'value conscious'. Test of the hypothesized path showed that counterfeit proneness influences attitudes toward counterfeits of luxury fashion goods indirectly through the two factors of attitudes toward counterfeiting. The results suggest some implications for anti-counterfeit businesses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.62-82
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the Avant-garde's aesthetic values and expressoinal characteristic, and to find out(analysis) the design characteristic of Avant garde fashion since 1995. Expressoinal characteristics of Avant garde with the anti-aesthetic, radically pursuing newness, and open mind, are revealed dynamism, hostile innovation, and experimentalism. Futuristic images expressed in dynamism represent space style, body conscious style, cyborg style, kinetic style, and primitive style. And deconstructional images related to hostile innovation show punk style, grunge style, humor style, and abstractive style. Also surreal images related to experimentalism hold erotic style, depasemant style, deformation style, and collage style. The proper usage of newness offers the escape, the vividness, and the humour from the fatigue of the life and so, it is expected to offer the chance of transfering the active individuals and societies directly or indirectly By analyzing the instances for the images of avant-garde fashion since 1995, the contribution about the expectation of the design trends of the present and future is expected.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.41-52
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• 2009

In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1996.10b
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• pp.73-76
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• 1996

This paper presents a dynamical anti-reset windup (ARW) compensation method for saturating control systems with multiple controllers and/or multiloop configuration. By regarding the difference of the controller states in the absence and presence of saturating actuators as an objective function, the dynamical compensator which minimize the objective function are derived in an integrated fashion. The proposed dynamical compensator is a closed form of the plant and controller parameters. The proposed method guarantees total stability of resulting system. An illustrative example is given to show the effectiveness of the proposed method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.544-558
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• 1997

Black street style has made unique fashion in popular music such as Jazz, Soul, Rhythm Il Blues. Reggae, and Rap, and it is counterculture and subculture against white. Furthermore, the black street style has played a starring role in the development of white culture as well as black culture, which emerged in direct opposition to the dominant cultures practised by a fraction of fellow countrymen within the black diaspora. The objectives of this study are to examine the social chronology of the black street style and the contemporary fashion, and the influences of the black street style on white culture. The seeds of black's style were sown in the late forties, developing throughout the fifties with the arrival of black immigrants from the west Indies and its examples were zooties, hip cats 8l hipsters, modernists. Rude boy & two-tone was anti·fashion style in sixties and then rastafarians continued in seventies costume is used to convey an essential symbolic class and ethnic message. The latest black's street fashion is hip-hop dress, which is pluralistic and electric, and funk is also erratic. During its ten-year reign as an international style, it has undergone numerous shifts because it is decline of racism B-boy & flygirls toraggamuffins & bhangra style to acid Jazz. These have played a crucial part in influencing the gigh fashion and avant-grade fashion designers' work. Today's street fashion has characteristics of postmodern culture without a racism in global village. Moreover, pop music stars take an effect on the street style continuously. With the opening of a new century, the study of the street style will overcast popular fashion and suggest the direction of fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.98-113
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• 2013

This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.150-164
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• 2021

This study analyzed the punk style shown in the movie Sid and Nancy (1986), based on a true story. The purpose of this study was to prove that the styles of the main characters had some discriminatory mode as an anti-fashion with not only the value system of the subculture but also the diverse cultural codes applied, revealing their identity. The scope of this study covered the 1970s when Sid died while a member of the Sex Pistols, but was limited to the analysis of Sid and Nancy's costumes. As theoretical background, this study reviewed the preceding studies, specialty books, movie-related sites and their postings, and on-line news reports. To analyze the movie costumes, relevant scenes on the DVD were captured, and thereby, the scenes were categorized per character and style but a performance scene was categorized Sid and Nancy as same punky wedding style because of intention spirituality to marriage by director, and thereupon, 17-cut images were used for the analysis of main characters' styles. Sid's style consisted primarily of black leather jackets, symbolic T-shirts, and jeans, whereas Nancy's style implied a punk style with added fetish styles. Even in the same punk style, their identities were symbolized through bricolage. Through this, subculture styles, were able to confirm that in addition to the value system of subculture, discriminatory modes as anti-fashion with various cultural codes played a role in revealing their identity.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.63-75
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• 2020

Purpose: This study examines the motivations that prompt customers to use commercial sharing services (CSSs), and the relationship between anti-consumption and the perceived utility of CSSs in the fashion-sharing business. This study tries to understand how the two types of anti-consumption can differentially affect consumers' perceived utility to use CSSs. In particular, as the types of CSS have diversified and many consumers have used them, it can be expected that the influence of anti-consumption on the perceived utility of CSSs can change, depending on the field where the CSS is applied. Research design, data and methodology: The structural equation modeling (SEM) with the SPSS 22.0 and AMOS 18.0 programs was used. Results: This study found that (i) two types of anti-consumption (voluntary and selective) differentially affect the perceived utilities to use CSSs; (ii) the two types of anti-consumption differentially affect the perceived utility to use CSSs depending on the level of the brand. Conclusions: In order to promote the spread of consumers' use in the sharing economy, it will be possible to identify what important utility is and make a meaningful contribution to the establishment of future marketing strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.89-103
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• 2011

The recent innovations in technoscience have changed the patterns of everyday lives for women and their politics of identity. Among the various debates on a women's relationship to technoscience, Donna J. Haraway's theory of the cyborg has been one of the most influential, as it provides new modes of conceiving subjectivity as well as new notions of women's shared experiences. For Haraway, the cyborg is an image of a female subject that will lead the future of science and technology as an amalgamation of non-hierarchical differences. This study examines the characteristics and meanings for the distortion, anti-aesthetic body, and clothing in fashion design through the cyborg feminism theory. Characteristics and meanings of the cyborg in fashion designs find their expression through mechanical images, distorted physical transformations, reconstruction of a destructed body, expression of an anatomical and heterogeneous body, and the persona image. Such expressions are not simply an act of distorting and destroying a body image but extending the category of a body, but of going beyond the limit of a real body and create a new body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.777-787
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to consider various characteristics in the graffiti-look in the modem fashion by interpreting meanings and properties of graffiti, transferred from street art to a new main stream in art. The scope of this study is limited to works from the 1990s to the present, and the materials for the literatures and exploratory study are fashion-related portfolios and the domestic and foreign fashion magazines. The first characteristic is satire. The graffiti-look conveys directly or indirectly with phrase or symbol various messages of politics, social ideology, wealth and poverty, environmental pollution, anti-war, etc. Body is even more used for graffitiand designers express freely their identity or ideology through the formative style of graffiti. The second characteristic is pleasure. Fantastic expressions from a fairy-tale or fable in the graffiti-look give humor meaning freedom and sense of liberation in a sense of catharsis to the modem people's emotion. The graffiti-look uses graffiti works to introduce its original message of humanism, happiness, humor, etc. to clothing; as a result, the graffiti-look features pleasure. The third characteristic iscommercial application. Brand logo designed by graffiti style is decorated with clothing, accessory, or ornament. This may not only emphasize brand name through lingual function of graffiti, but also be used for a distinctive marketing strategy against other brands. Logo which is regarded motive or pattern of design leaves a image instead of a meaning and performs a design function stressing formative sense.