• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2010년도 제3회 국제학회
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• pp.183-183
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• 2010

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.299-303
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• 2003

Some of historical textiles were analyzed to identify the imprinted textures on the metal remains of Haengyeup(a horse strap pendant) and Doja (a knife), which were excavated in the ruins of Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju city in the fifth century and textiles imprinted on the human bones that were excavated in the Pungnae 4th Area, Namyangju county in the sixteenth century. The results analyzed arc as follows ; It was confirmed that the imprinted textures of Haengyeup and Doja are white ramie since the structural characteristics of cellulosic bast fibers, partially projected long oval cross sections with large lumens and the imprinted textures of human bones are silk fabrics since the triangular cross sections of fibroin is showed. All of the textiles were designed in plain weaves. In the case of weaving yarns, the warp threads were thicker than the weft threads, that is, the imprinted textures of Haengyeup were measured by 1.35 mm for warp and 1.21 mm for weft, and the Doja by 1.16mm for warp and 1.11 mm for weft. In connection with the direction of the yarn twist, the Z-twist were observed in the imprinted textures of human bones, whereas it presented the S-twist in the case of Haengyeup and Doja. The warp yarns were mostly harder twisted than the weft yarns on the amounts of twist, that is, it was observed that the case of Haengyeup were amounted to 0.33 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.25 twists per centimeter for weft yarns. Also it was showed 0.32 twists per centimeter for warp yarns and 0.26 twists per centimeter in the case of the textures of human bones. On the fabric counts, it was showed that the finer the yarns the higher the densities since it were $4.3{\times}5.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters and $7.6{\times}7.1$ threads per sqaure centimeters each in the case of Haengyeup and Doja, whereas it was $18.2{\times}33.7$ threads per sqaure centimeters in the case of the textures of human bones.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.255-265
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the dyeing properties of four kinds of composite yams that were twisted in different processes. The composite yarns consist of acetate and functional polyester in ratio of 70 : 30. The composite yams were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ using three types of dyes, disperse dyes for acetate fiber, PET fiber and PET-acetate blended fiber, in the three primary colors. The exhaustion($\%$) and K/S value were observed for each case. Also the effects of four different twisting processes to dyeing properties and physical properties were examined. Regardless of twisting methods, the composite yarns that were dyed at 125$^{circ}C$ had higher exhaustion($\%$) than those were dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ with all three types of dyes; However, tendency of the K/S value after reduction cleaning process was measured at 100$^{circ}C$ and the value measured 125$^{circ}C$ had a great difference with disperse dyes for acetate and dyes for PET. The difference of the K/S values of composite yarns, when dyed at 100$^{circ}C$ and 125$^{circ}C$ with disperse dyes for PET-acetate blended fiber, was almost negligible. According to twisting methods K/S values were in the following order: AP1 > AP3 > AP4> AP2. This means that AP1, treated at 220$^{circ}C$, had the highest K/S value and K/S value becomes higher as the yam is higher twisted and becomes lower as lower twisted. On the other hand, the dry shrinkage and wet shrinkage showed low shrinkage rate when the twist was high and steam setting temperature was high.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.1-12
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• 1998

This study surveys the mechanical properties such as bending and shear properties to the weight reduction rate of PET fabrics. For this purpose, 12 kinds of satin and 18 kinds of plain weave fabrics are prepared with change of the physical properties of weft yarn(T.P.M., density, and denier) The weight reduction rate was 0％, 12％, 25％, and 30％. Bending rigidity and hysteresis, shear rigidity and hysteresis were measured and discussed with theoretical values in relation with weft twist, yarn linear density, weft fabric density and weave structures.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.443-451
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• 1994

The bending rigidity of yarn is derived in terms of physicil and mechanical characteristics of its constituent fibers and yarns structural parametrs. Theoretical analysis shows that the twist correcti on factor for the bending rigidity of yarn decreases with increase of the ratio of Young's m()dulus to the shear modulus of the constituent fibers. Also, the bending rigidity of yarn decreases as the surface helix angle of yarn increases.

• 감성과학
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.449-460
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• 2008

중동지역은 PET 합섬직물이 이들의 평상복으로 많이 사용되고 있으며, 여성복은 차도르(Chador) 그리고 남성복은 토베(Thobe)라고 불려진다. 그리고 이들 PET 직물은 미세한 촉감특성에 따라서 수출가격의 큰 차이를 가져오며 원사의 특성과 제조공정 특성에 의해 미세한 감성촉감의 차이를 유발한다. 본 연구에서는 고가에 팔리고 있는 일본 데이진 제품과 비교하여 본 연구에서 개발된 중동 남성복 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 분석하고 미세한 감성촉감의 원인을 규명하여 원사 및 최적 생산공정조건에 관한 연구를 수행하였다. 본 연구에서는 일본 데이진 직물 4가지를 목표품질시료로서 준비하였고, 개발을 위한 시생산제품으로 5가지 직물을 시생산하였다. 실의 굵기, 꼬임수 그리고 실의 세팅조건 및 직물의 밀도 등을 바꾸어 연축과 직축 그리고 가공축 등의 설계조건을 바꾸어 주었다. 본 연구수행의 결과 데이진 Thobe 제품의 감성특성을 원사 및 직물에서 분석하고 이들 감성특성 분석 자료를 바탕으로 사가공(絲加工)기술과 3차원 직물설계 시뮬레이션 기술을 바탕으로 감성 토베 직물의 설계기술을 확립하였다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• 연구논문집
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• 통권31호
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• pp.101-112
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• 2001

A Twisting machine is to twist yarns for improving yarn stiffness. After twisting yarns, the twisting machine is winding yarn at a bobbin. Traverse cam is main part of winding yarn part. In other to improve twisting machine performance and stability, improve traverse cam part. Original displacement curves of traverse cam has two problems. One is that displacement curve has a vertex point the other is that velocity curve is discontinue point. So that, in this paper proposes a modified displacement curves of traverse cam and new shape design method of the traverse cam using the relative velocity method[1]. The relative velocity method calculates the relative velocity of the follower versus the cam at a center of roller, and then determines a contact point by using the geometric relationship and the kinematical constraints. Finally, we present to compare two designed cam. One is designed using original displacement curves the other is using modified displacement curve.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.420-423
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• 2006

Spandex has been successfully applied on modified worsted spinning system to produce spandex core spun yam. However it's difficult to produce wool/spandex core-spun yam on woolen spinning system with the same modified device because the drafting device of the two systems is quite different. A new method is introduced to apply spandex on woolen spinning system in this paper. Core-spun yam produced in this way has good appearance and quality by comparing with normal yam. A series of experiments were carried out to study the influence of spandex drafting ratio and yam twist factor on tensile' properties and elasticity of core-spun yams. The results indicate that core-spun yam with spandex drawing ratio of 2.5 and twist factor of 13.63 has highest value of tenacity and breaking elongation.