• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.808-817
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to verify potential differences in group- specific external feature concerns and beauty care behaviors of Korean women in their 20's~40's depending on their narcissistic propensity. This study is to take psychological approaches to narcissistic propensity of our contemporary society, so that it can get better understanding about consumers and provide marketing data on beauty-related industry. To meet the above goals, total 400 sheets of questionnaire were distributed to subjects from March 30 to April 8, 2009. Out of 376 sheets of questionnaire collected, total 355 valid questionnaires except incomplete 21 ones were used for final data analysis. For data analysis, this study used SPSS 12.0 as statistic program to perform factor analysis, reliability test (Cronbac's ${\alpha}$ coefficient), cluster analysis, t-test, analysis of variance (ANOVA), Duncan's multiple range test and multiple regression analysis. As a result, this study could come to the following findings: First, according to cluster analysis depending upon different factors such as self-directed narcissism, others-conscious narcissism and others-sensitive narcissism, it was found that our women in 20's to 40's could fall into 4 groups, i.e. complex narcissism group, mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group. Second, according to analysis on potential differences in external feature concerns among four groups depending on their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Third, according to analysis on differences in beauty care behaviors among four groups depending upon their narcissistic propensity, it was found that there were significant differences in all relevant factors among groups. Fourth, according to analysis on potential factors of external feature concerns that may influence beauty care behaviors of complex narcissism group, it was found that those factors had significant effects on fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery and personality pursuit of this group. And it was also found that there were significant differences in fashion-orientedness, cosmetic surgery, makeup and hair styling of mixed narcissism group, others-sensitive narcissism group and dispirited narcissism group respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.812-825
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• 2008

This article analyzed fashion representations in France posters, especially the late 19th century France when mass consumption cultures arose. That was analyzed by consumers' sexuality supposed in advertisement contents. Female models mainly figured in posters of the late 19th century France made a role to promote consumption, in which female models were emphasized on fashion, for example, erotic robe, unusual hair style and etc. Posters' type in this period were categorized in three types by presenting style of female body and fashion style. The first were targeting female consumers, and that posters represented bourgeois fashion styles and life styles to clear consumers' social status and to present women's consuming power. The second case was targeting male consumers, and that posters figured female models such as available products. In this case, poster artists emphasized female models' sexualities and used fantasies against eroticism of the legs and feet. And third case was targeting female consumers and males', in this case, two different aspects were required to appealing to consumers. One was to use a female sexuality to appeal for male consumers, the other was to modify female models as transcendental being such like a muse admirable and mysterious, through fashion styles for female consumers. In the late 19th century, female body and fashion were spectacular elements in visual arts specifically. This study clarified representations of female body and fashion in the late 19th century posters according to poster's contents and target consumer's sexuality. This was one of the aspects characterizing early advertisement media.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.15 no.11
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• pp.6484-6491
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• 2014

The human's basic desire for aesthetics, which has existed along with human history, has been more individualized and diversified according to the progress of modern economic social change. In the case of men, who have a relatively higher connection and experience of mass media compared to women, there is a characteristic to apply and utilize information acquisition and share appearance management quickly on the media. This paper classified and arranged the image and characteristics of the modern male image analyzed the relationship between men's appearance management and information exploration. In addition, exploration relation per information medium was considered by dividing the men's appearance management behavior and characteristics into make-up, hair management, skin care, hands and feet care, and plastic surgery. This appears to be useful for the industrial group, e.g. beauty treatment, cosmetics, hospital, etc. as advertisement marketing information.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.266-272
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• 2002

This research is compared and analyzed variations of the heavy metal contents in human hairs according to treating permanent wave manipulation before and after and permanent wave agents. This is the survey of women's hairs in 19 years old. On the basis of this we would like to analyze a extend of exposing of heavy metal scientifically. Also, we would to show a basic data for the permitted limits of heavy metal to keep the healthy hair The conclusion is as follows.; Mean contents of heavy metal in hairs is 2.11 ppm (Pb), 0.25 ppm (Cd), 2.62 ppm (Ni), 256 ppm (Zn), 8.45 ppm (Cu). In reducing agents (processing lotions) of perm, 1.50 ppm (Pb), 0.03 ppm (Cd), 0.05 ppm (Ni), 15.45 ppm (Zn), 0.86 ppm (Cu) in a perm (S), 2.30 ppm (Pb), 0.05 ppm (Cd), 0.05 ppm (Ni), 13.05 ppm (Zn), 0.65 ppm (Cu) in a perm (T). In oxidizing agents (neutralizer) of perm, 1.40 ppm (Pb), 0.03 ppm (Cd), 0.09 ppm (Ni), 9.05 ppm (Zn), 0.65 ppm (Cu) in a perm (S), 1.50 ppm (Pb), 0.02 ppm (Cd), 0.16 ppm (Ni), 8.00 ppm (Zn), 0.85 ppm (Cu) in a perm (T). Mean contents of lead(Pb) didn't show significant differences according to treating cysteine perm agents, showed it according to 3 treating thioglycolic acid perm agents (p<0.05). Mean contents of cadmium(Cd) showed significant differences (p<0.001) according to 2 treating both perm agents. Mean contents of nickel (Ni) showed neither. Mean contents of zinc (Zn) showed significant differences according to 2 treating cysteine perm agents (p<0.001) and 1 treating thioglycolic acid perm agents (p<0.01). Mean contents of copper (Cu) didn't show significant differences according to treating cysteine perm agents, showed it according to 1 treating thioglycolic acid perm agents (p<0.001).

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.515-523
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• 2015

This study investigated the history of Korean wedding styling, which has been the basis for today's wedding styling and analyzed wedding styling trends and characteristics. This study sought to explain how Korean wedding styling has evolved under the circumstances that wedding styling, which contains personal propensity, personality and identity, draws great attention from the world as well as from single women and is perceived as a fashion item The study results found the following: For nearly four decades since the 1960s, there have been specific changes in Korean wedding styles such as silhouette and color. Depending on customer personality, preferred styles clearly varied. In addition, favorite makeup, hairstyle and accessories have also changed over time. This study has verified changes in different wedding styling trends over time. Wedding styling has created a particular mood suitable to a bride's appearance or offered significant characteristics over time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.3
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• pp.76-98
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• 2023

The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.1692-1703
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• 2008

On 2008, China comes to be an era of opening the market for 30 years, being both the 4th economically biggest country and 2nd ranked clothing export country in the world. China plays a huge consuming market for the world, along with the competition arena for the numerous world fashion brands while more than 100 kinds of Korean fashion ones being launched into the China. By applying the analysis and investigation of preferred street style. in local area to the development of fashion items and design, the synergistic effect of university and industrial corporation might also be expected. This study aims to provide the basic resources for the development of fashion design on behalf of the Korean fashion brands launched into China and moreover to anticipate the requirement on the part of Chinese consumers by way of understanding the preferred fashion styles, through analysis and investigation of the street fashion in Dalian, northeastern area of China. Conclusively, in terms of clothing style, 80.5% of casual style and 19.5% of formal style were notified. The jean casual, and easy casual being dominant in the former, feminine style in the later. In view of the high frequency of T-shirt, sleeveless on the top, full-length pants and 7/9 length pants on the bottom. The simple and cool style seems to be favored, making them easy through the hot summer. The upper clothes exposed in body part of back, chest and shoulder, were frequently shown. In light of colours. white, black, red were preferred on top, blue and black were preferred on bottom. To deal with accessories, the shoulder bag mostly preferred among bags, the sandal, slippers, snickers in sequential order among shoes, the hair pins and rubber band(tied or, held up style), in hair accessories. Other items of hat, belt, and sunglasses, which could give a point to the summer style, were identified low frequency.