• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.5 s.104
• /
• pp.44-58
• /
• 2006

Dolls which were recognized as children's toys are recently also recognized as one of the cultural products of adult's hobby. Thus this research is about dolls' fashion and the possibility of their industrial expansion. Moreover, the object of the research is to develop and manufacture high quality fashion doll products in Korea which are mostly imported from foreign countries. The research studied the origin and the path of the development of fashion dolls with the history of clothing and special books for dolls. By organizing the character and the fashion of dolls' costumes, the research has a meaning for not only to make an academic approach of dolls' costumes which was insufficient in Korea but also to provide useful information to toy enterprises. The conclusion of this research is as followed. First, dolls have a lot of possibilities to be developed as a high value added cultural product industry by emerging from their children's toy image. Second, since costumes of dolls also have a trend, it is necessary to develop products with the trend to satisfy customer's willing. Third, organization of both the books about the dolls' costumes and the information for their DIY is urgently needed for the domestic fashion doll manias. Forth, the necessity to scheme the expansion of fancy industry has been raise by using dolls' characterization and fashion. Fifth, the researcher who has researched the above necessities has manufactured 8 pieces of dolls' costumes and provided the actual solutions to the each point of the discussions. In sum, I suggest expanding the scope of both research subject and product manufacturing of the research results and also recommend for further researches to develop the products which consumers want.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.08a
• /
• pp.285-288
• /
• 2004

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.30 no.3
• /
• pp.331-347
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.37
• /
• pp.133-148
• /
• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.40 no.6
• /
• pp.21-37
• /
• 2002

The third sex implying a mismatch between sex and gender has been regarded as an extreme socio-cultural violation. In its earlier version, such a violation was expressed by cross-dressing; Women's cross-dressing was thought to invoke eroticism, while men's cross-dressing was considered comic or delinquent. However, as feminism developed more with the homosexual identity expressed openly, the third sex began to be visual. Thus, in 1990's, some homosexual monies began to develop to be pluralized enough to suggest the third sex and thereby, change the negative sex into a positive one. In this study, such a pluralization is discussed in terms of invisibility, dichotomy and androgyny. The cross-dressing movies show females in male attire or males in female attire to reflect the third sex. The cross-dressing may be divided into men's playful cross-dressing, women's political cross-dressing and homosexuals'cross-dressing or 'drag'. Gender identity is not an attribute fixed by some physical characteristics, but it tends to be changed or expanded by some social factors over time. In short, it may be a flexible, plural, individual and self-introspective attribute. Movies present diverse types of gender identities, and in particular, the movie costumes specify them. In other words, the costumes may be model means expressing the gender identities, and the gender identities shown in the movies tend to be imitated, re-created or assumed by the audience.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.10a
• /
• pp.54-55
• /
• 2004

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.35-51
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to have a new understanding of the freewheeling beauty inhering in the Korean western costumes, traditionally the freewheeling beauty has been the root of Korean beauty expressed in the Korean feeling. First, the theoritical inquiry for this study was processed to understand formativeness of the Korean popular arts, folk painting, pottery, pansori(dramatic song), masked dance. The results of the theoritical analysis were as follows; the korean beauty inherited in the Korean popular arts, was represented plastic words as good-humor, unsophisticated, homely, plainness, simplicity, artless, unartificial, crudely etc, the freewheeling beauty implied the beauty of good-humor, the beauty of naivety. In conclusion, the creative Korean beauty reflected in the western costumes by Korean designers was derived from freewheeling characteristics of Korean feeling. After this study, I came to conclusion that it‘s very important to recover, reperceive, revaluate the inner meanings inherited Korean western costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.2 no.2
• /
• pp.269-276
• /
• 1978

This thesis studied the costumes of Gwan-Rye(관예). the lowest ranking officials of Yi-Dynasty. It researched the written materials and compared it with relics of Gwan-Rye costumes. The gists of the result are; 1) The Koryo tradition of Gwan-Rye costumes continued until the early days of Yi-Dynasty. 2) The Gwan-Rye costumes can be classified into two styles. One is Sa-Ryung(사영) style, which consisted of Dan-Ryung(단령) robe and Jo-Geon(조시) as head gear. Na-Jang(라장) style. the another, consisted of Dan-Ryung. Ban-Bi-Ui(반비의) and Jo-Geon. 3) These styles changed around the days of Yeon-San(연산), the 10th King of the Dynasty. The Na-Jang of later days wore Cheop-Ri(첩리) robe instead of Dan-Ryung. And the Sa-Ryung costume was devided into three different styles. They are (1) Gat(립)- Cheop-Ri (2) Bung-Geo-Ji(단립)-Chang-Ui(창의) (3) Gat- Kwoe-Ja(쾌자) styles.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.16-33
• /
• 2004

Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2004.10a
• /
• pp.160-161
• /
• 2004