• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.40-54
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• 2012

The significance of this research lies in the analysis of that appears in the comedy . It also aims to propose conceptual and analytical costume designs that emphasize the formal aspects of play by reflecting on the comical elements simultaneously. , the subject of this study, was played on November 12, 2009 at the Small Theater (Dalohreum Theater) in the National Theater as a celebration of the 40th anniversary of Suwon Women's College. The costumes were designed by this researcher and were produced in collaboration with the Creative Performances Research Institute (Suwon Women's College). The comic elements were categorized into deconstruction, deviation and unexpectedness according to previous studies on the humorous nature of comedy, and their aesthetic meanings were applied to the costumes. The designs that reflect the comic elements are as follows. The costume design reflecting deconstruction is a way that disassembles and recombines constructive aspects of clothing. It consists of seam margins outside or just left disassembled without sewing, dismantling the boundary of outerwear and underwear. The costume design reflects deviation because reformed shapes of collars, the variation of length and closure of skirts deviate from the traditional style. These are designed by distorting traditional designs with deviation and transcend of tradition. The costume designs the reflect unexpectedness integrates both tradition and the contemporary, and use materials of diversity and heterogeneity, and these are composed of external formats the result from incongruity. Because comic elements are metaphysical concepts that carry meanings that are difficult to define according to the country and period, it is required to analyze, organize and utilize their characteristics and meanings of each period. Since this study analyzed the comical elements of a play and applied them to costume design, it is hoped that a follow-up study of analytical costume design is be done, and that more diverse and more creative costume designs are in the next generation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.5-19
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• 1998

This study aims to analyze the shortening tendency of women's hanbok chogori (upper part of the Korean traditional dress) in the latter period of Chosun in three respects-socially, economically, and aesthetically. First, from the social point of riew, sexual role and social starus were examined. The strict sexual roles between males and females made the latter inferior to the former. The relatively lower sexual role had the woman look receptive and passive and wear a short and narrow kind of chogori. Also, the confusion of the social status system weakened the function of the costumes to differentiate social classes and, consequently, almost all classes wore short chogori. Second, the economic progress in the wake of the commerce-centered positivism at that time helped raise the economic status of the middle and low classes. As a result, with their social and economic status elevated, they tried to wear somewhat luxurious chogori. Third, aesthetically speaking, erotically-look-ing and much-shortened chogori derived from the weakened male-centered Confucian tra-ditional ethics in conflict with the humani-tarian positivism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1386-1397
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• 2009

This study investigates costumes for ball jointed dolls under the theme of Bok-yo(服妖): The Lady in Early-middle Joseon with relic costumes as a reference. The Bok-yo style was spread universally for Joseon women in the $15^{th}-16^{th}$ centuries, but it is an uncommon theme in the area of media and traditional costume for dolls. Bok-yo (curious outfit), consisted of a Dang-jeogori with a golden brocade in the front bottom, manlike Jang-ot, wide Chima, and Jang-ot was dressed between Chima and the Dang-jeogori. To make correct patterns and approvals for idle bodies of female ball-jointed dolls, darts are added in the front vertical line and center back of the golden brocade Dan-jeogori for Joseon ladies. The pattern of the golden brocade Chima is made as a trapezoid shape for the thin waist of a doll, and the length of a deep-greened silk gauze The Jang-ot increased because of the length of the doll's legs. In addition, the kinds of investigated accessories, hair, traditional underwear for dolls are limited. Suggested is a closer cooperation between the investigated costume designers, doll companies, and accessory makers for the future market of ball jointed dolls.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.336-352
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• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.66-80
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• 2017

The headdress is one of the most important clothing characters in China, as it was used to distinguish the 55 minority groups in China. Each minority group has a unique headdress culture. Among the 55 minority groups, the Zang, the Yi, and the Miao focus their ethnic costumes on the headdress, and have a more distinctive headdress culture compared to be other nationality groups. The Yi is one of the minority groups that linvd in Southwest China. They usually lived in compact communities in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous region. The total population of the Yi is the sixth largest among the 55 minority groups. Modern scholars believe that the Yi people are descendants of the ancient Qiang people, which is a group that lived in Northwest China six or seven thousand years before. It is believed that the Qiang went down to the southern part of China and allied with the aboriginals in that region, and this group of people became the Yi, Due to its long history, cultural background, and the large number of people and settlements, they have produced a unique costume culture. The women's headdress culture is considered to be the one of the most important characteristics of their costume culture. There are four forming element of the Yi women's headdress, religious faith, myths, geographical distribution and customs & festivals. The first three elements play an important role in the protection and spread of headdress, while the fourth element provides potential for the modern headdress development. Because of much influence factors, more than 100 types of Yi women headdresses have developed. Depends on categories, Yi woman headdress can be divided into kerchief, hat, fascinator and other accessories wore on the hand. This study investigated the development of the Yi women's headwear, and screened and analyzed representative Yi women accessories, such as the headscarf, hat, and fascinator. This analysis will provide basic materials for further studies of Yi women's headdress or costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.120-136
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• 2012

This thesis takes an aim to investigate the relationship between the costume and enlightenment ideology by studying the change of costume, and reviewing the portraiture of Queen Marie Antoinette. The method of this research is to select the 29 pieces among the portraitures from 1770 to 1793, and to analyze the headdress, shape of robes and ornaments. The results are as follows. The first period(1770-1774): The costume in this period of Dauphin of France is described as vivid, and simple like her characters, and also represents her active lifestyle. The ideology of equality between the two sexes from the enlightenment slightly influence the costumes seen inside the portrait of Dauphin. The second period (1775-1779): This is the early period of the Queen's enthronement and also before her childbirth. The relatively small number of portraits showed her as an authoritative figure because her skirts were expanded with huge panier, the waist were tightened with corset, and her headdress was enlarged. Thus, this period could not be defined as the one of enlightenment philosophies in light of the persistent unsanitary construction of costumes distorting the body. The third period(1780-1789): There are many portraits depicting the Queen and her children. It is noteworthy that the English style picturesque garden was illustrated as a background while the costume was simple and sanitary, both being affected by the enlightenment. The last period(1789-1793): This is the period between the French revolution and the death of the Queen. The form of costumes was transformed into the neoclassic style, headdress was reduced in size, and was simplified as a result of complete change of costume for the enlightenment. This research is to be interpreted as a tool of study about the relationship of costume, society and ideological streams and also be a means of elucidating the contemporary times in view of the past ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.113-124
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• 1996

This research was designed to find out what is a distictive feature of the design elements of Korean women's costume and its influence by analizing the trend of Korean women's constume during the period of 1890 and 1995. The research was analized by a total of 854 random samples of clothing styles collected from materials in the museums and from articles of three leading newspapers and one of the best women's magazines in Korea. The changing trend of Korean women's costume was found out to be as follows: 1. In around 1910s, the trend of Korean women's costume has been changed into two-tier structure of both Korean and Western styles, and the typical and traditional Korean women's street wears such as 'Chang-ot' and 'Tsdechima' have been gradually diminished. 2. From 1920s, length of the Korean skirt, which was unnecessarily long and inconvenient, has been getting shorter for the convenience of walking. In addition, Korean women's underwear has become simplified, and sports wear could be seen for the first time in Korea. 3. During 1960s, the Western clothing styles have been increased rather than Korean styles as the street wear of the Korean women. 4. In 1970s, blue jeans, mini-skirts and casual wears have become a trend or fashion for women in Korea. 5. In 1980s, a fashion of unisex mode has arrived in this country, and from the year of 1987, wearing of panties among the Korean women has been increased rather than skirts wearing for the street wear. 6. During 1990s, various forma of complex styles came into being in such styles as so-called 'orange class style,' 'protruding navel T-shirts' and 'runner wear speedy.' From mid-1990s, Korean women have turned out to prefer the cute and light costumes by placing emphasis on the image of intellectual, professional and functional wears. The changing special feature of the Korean women's clothing designs could be distinctively observed during 1960s as the modernization policies in Korea have been processed during the period. The clothing trend before 1960 was to change and to solve problems of inconvenient and impractical wears, but the trend after 1960 was seen as a change to confirm a trend of the world fashion. From mid-1990s, however, preference of Korean women's self-conceited conception socially and an unquestionable changing pattern of Korean women's life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-21
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify costumes described in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). Conclusions and summary of the research can be summarized as follows. Pyo ui was an outer robe. It was worn by man and woman from all classes. Nai ui is considered as a kind of long inner garment worn under the outer garment. Ban bi is a short-sleeved garment worn over a jacket. Both sexes wore this garment but it was restricted to the upper class. Dan ui, a short garment, is a kind of jacket. Although records on this garment appear only in the items of woman's garments, it si considered that all people wore this garment since it was basic garment for the people of Silla. Bai was the bai ja. It was a kind of woman's over-cat with wide sleeves. Dang is considered as a kind of woman's outer robe originally made of ra. The upper class women entitled to wear the bai and the dang. Women wore skirts. They had tow kinds of skirts an outer skirt and an inner skirt. However, women of four du pum did not have an inner skirt. Trousers were worn by all people. Names of ban bi, bai, and dang were derived from T'ang China. These garments with their origins in T'ang China were used by the upper class people of Silla. They used those garments as a means of differentiating their social status from the lower class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.