• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was for analyzing the fashion design imaged by Kimono in the 1990s. Through the work, what is the way to create the non-western fashion design can be found. For this purpose, I took my design data from fashion magazines in the 1990s, and referred to the literal materials about history of western costume and Kimono. The result were as follows ; Kimono in Japanese denotes thing to wear. Ki is derived from the verb kiru, to wear, and mono, thing. However, in the western world the term came to mean the T-shaped outer garment formerly known in Japan as the kosode. It is consists of sleeve(sode), wide sash(obi), hemline(suso), collar(eri), and material. There were many complex reasons for its diversity in the west, and for its evolution during the past one hundred years from the peignoir including exoticism, eroticism, women's liberation to the high fashion imaged by folklore and avant-garde. Therefore the fashion design imaged by Kimono was divided into feminine style, natural & folklore style, modern & avant-garde style.

• 기록학연구
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• 제63호
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• pp.145-165
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• 2020

영국에서 활동한 메리 켈리와 케이 헌트, 마가렛 해리슨이 협업한 전시 는 1970년대 여성 노동자들의 이야기를 다루고 있다. 1960년대 후반을 기점으로 전 세계는 정치적·사회적으로 많은 변화를 겪었다. 그 흐름과 같은 맥락으로, 기록학에서는 일반인이나 공동체, 소수계층을 대상으로 한 수집의 다양화를 강조했고, 예술계에서는 정치적 발언 혹은 노동자, 페미니즘 등 주제의 확대로 이어졌다. 이런 사회적 상황으로 세 명의 작가는 기록학과 예술계에서 주요 쟁점이 된 노동자와 여성의 삶에 주목하고, 이를 공론화하기 위한 전시 를 개최했다. 이 전시는 공장에서 일하는 이들의 노동 현실과 여성으로서 겪었던 차별, 가정 내에서의 가사 분담 등 당대의 사회적 문제들을 다루고 있다. 작가들은 이를 효과적으로 전달하기 위해 노동자들과의 인터뷰, 사진과 영상 촬영, 관련 문서 수집 등의 방법을 사용해 객관적인 사실을 제공하는 것에 중점을 두었다. 따라서 는 세 명의 작가가 협업한 미술작품인 동시에 1970년대의 노동 현실, 그리고 지역의 역사를 담고 있는 기록물로 평가할 수 있다. 이에 본 연구는 1970년대 사회적 상황을 바탕으로 영국의 여성 노동자를 다룬 의 내용을 분석하고 특징을 살펴본다. 나아가 기록물과 기록행위를 활용한 예술작품을 다양한 시선과 입장을 도출할 수 있는 방법론 중 하나로 평가해 이를 기록의 사회적·정보적 가치의 범주로 고찰한다.

• 기독교교육논총
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• 제63권
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• pp.317-345
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• 2020

기존 사회 패러다임인 가부장제의 남성중심적인 사회 구조의 해체와 재구성이 요청되고 있으나 한국 교회는 여전히 전통적 '정상 가족 이데올로기'와 모성 담론에 의거하여 여성을 호명하고, 여성의 역할을 이에 국한시켜 이해하려는 종교적 해석과 문화적 관습이 지배적이다. 그러나 여성의 다양한 삶의 양태와 생애사적 주기, 그리고 개별성을 고려할 때 기존의 생물학적 모성 담론으로 여성을 국한시키는 것은 여성이 주체적인 리더로서 성장하여 사회와 인류공동체에 기여하도록 돕기에 적합하지 않은 일이다. 한국 교회는 여성의 주체적 신앙 형성을 격려하는 교육과정을 새롭게 모색해야 할 필요가 있다. 개항기 기독교 여성들의 삶에서 성역할 고정관념과 성별 분업, 모성담론을 담고 있는 당시 개신교 신학의 도전에 대해 한국 기독교 여성들이 주체성을 확립해나가는 응전 과정을 살펴볼 수 있다. 한국 기독교 여성들은 침묵과 수용적 인식을 지나 전통 가부장제의 억압적 경험을 나누면서 이의 부당함을 느끼고 해발을 찾아가는 주관적인 인식을 형성하였다. 그리고 공감적이고 관계적 공동체 안에서 절차적이고 구성적인 인식을 형성하여 신앙의 주체자로 행위할 수 있었다. 한국교회는 100여년 전 선배 여성들이 스스로 형성했던 교육 과정을 성찰하면서 기독교 여성 교육과정을 재구성해야 한다.

• 한국사회정책
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.79-108
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• 2016

'저복지 국가인 미국에서, 여성들의 일-가정양립은 어떠한 역사적 과정을 거쳐 이루어져 왔을까?' 이 질문에 답을 하고자, 미국 여성 일-가정양립경로의 형성과정에 대한 역사적 인과관계를 4단계시기로 나누어 살펴보았다. 과거 전업주부에 머물렀던 중산층 기혼여성을 대상으로 하여, 여성 일-가정 양립모델에 대한 역사적 제도주의적 접근을 시도함으로써 기존연구들과의 차별성을 두었다. 주요 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 제1단계는 여성의 고등교육이 확대되고, 산업변화로 미혼여성들의 사회진출이 시작된 시기였다. 제2단계는 중산층 여성들의 사회진출이 뉴딜, 소비자본주의, 제2차 세계대전을 통해 확대된 시기이다. 제3단계는 여성해방운동으로 정부의 적극적 조치에 대한 '적극적' 시행이 요구되어 전문화된 직업영역으로 여성의 일자리가 확대된 시기였다. 제4단계에서는 더 나은 정규직 일자리로 진입하려는 여성 근로자의 공급 측면과, 양질의 근로자를 얻고자 하는 사용자의 수요 부분이 개별고용관계를 통해 노동시장 제도 내에서 맞물렸다. 이로써 맞벌이의 규범화가 이루어졌다. 즉, 저복지국가인 미국에서는 여성의 개별적 노력(학업을 통한 능력향상과 여성운동)과 개별고용관계가 발달된 노동시장 특징으로 인하여, 고학력 중산층 여성의 '고(高)고용-고출산'이 가능하며, 정규직 일자리로의 재복귀가 비교적 용이한 여성 일-가정양립 패턴이 완성될 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.611-621
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• 2009

As fashion is a visual symbol that reflects age and culture, cosmetics and beauty are other products of fashion that move the time. A dominant designer of 20th century Chanel does not merely stand for a design innovation of fashion industry that created a vogue. With liberation from corsets that cruelly exaggerated and suppressed female body, meaning of style in modern fashion could be found not only in clothing but also in make-up and hair style. Simplest possible comfort was aimed for, and philosophical concepts of minimalism, modernism and dandyism were incorporated with clothing, cosmetics, perfume, make-up and hair style to establish aesthetical concept of total fashion. Chanel thought of cosmetics as an accessory with essential role and although her philosophy on cosmetics and beauty is not as well known as her clothing style, the authors believe that understanding such philosophy will become an important stepping stone for accurately understanding Chanel style. The purpose of this study is to firstly illuminate the idea that cosmetic beauty can be studied with artistic and philosophical background in addition to its functional side and to secondly investigate the reason why Chanel style is being loved by women with such durability over time and space and with what tempo fashion is connected with cosmetic beauty culture and develops. Third, by studying the ways in which characteristics of Chanel's fashion philosophy are expressed in cosmetics and beauty culture, this study aims to accurately understand Chanel's philosophy on cosmetics and beauty. The meaning of this study can be found by showing the evidence that globalization of Korean fashion beauty culture can be achieved only when cosmetics and beauty culture moves with an intimate connection to clothing culture.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2008

Comedy costumes worn on the comedians/gag men express the information of the performances such as character's era, place, social rank, present environment, age, sex, occupation, emotion, relationships between the characters, importance and mood in visual language. The comic is found when these informations are reversed, revealed, exaggerated or distorted. To analyse the TV comedy costumes, 5 subordinate concepts of the comic which are Body, Gender, Age, T.P.O.(Time, Place, Occasion) and Role could be identified, and the results from the analysis focused on (10 shows were selected from each of the first and second half of the years from 2003 to 2007) are as follows: Distorted and ugly body implies the resistance against the ideal body. Reversed or confused sex are usually expressed as men dressed in women, and these mean breaking the dichotomy between male and female, and coexistence of the masculinity and feminity, and satirizing the social custom restricting women by moral rules. It could be recognized that the way of men's dressing in women have been changing keeping pace with the times. The discord between age and costume was often expressed with children's wear and childish props. This implies the liberation from the age role. The comic expressed from the inadequate costume for T.P.O. usually appeared with the costumes 20-30years behind the times. When there were discordance with the acts and acts expected from the outfit(appearance) also made an ironical laugh. The comics acquired by vulgarization and exaggeration of the characteristics of role(figures/occupation) were from the imitation and deformation of the objects in stereotypes, and through this dissolving the custom was under way.

• 복식
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• 제65권7호
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• pp.129-144
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• 2015

This study is aimed to better understand the lifestyle and fashion trend of Korea in 1954 and 1955, a period right after the Korean War. The study examined "The Journey of Duty", which was a color slide film of Seoul and Suwon made by a US soldier stationed in Korea during that time, as well as various documents. The films are assumed to be outcomes of the US Army wanting to record the situation in Korea, and the study was able to use 110 of the slides to examine the fashion trend of the times. There are three noticeable trends shown on "The Journey of duty". Koreans in western clothes, women wearing work pants called Momppae, and black color being in fashion. Most of the men and the children either wore only western clothes or western clothes with the Hanbok. But women rarely wore western-style clothing, such as blouse with skirt. They usually wore Hanbok or wore reformed Hanbok. The work pants, Momppae, becoming an everyday wear is the most unique finding from the slides. Women either wore just the pants or over the traditional Korean skirt. Black-colored clothes were in fashion. This color first spread after the Costume Reform Movement in the 1920s' and the prohibition of white robe. The wearing of white clothes did increase after the Korean liberation in 1945, as national spirit was promoted. However, many people still wore black due to economic reasons, as we as practical reasons. So the Korean fashion in 1954-1955 was in a transition period, as people were beginning to change their daily wears from traditional Korean costumes to western-styled clothes. The reasons for this change could be attributed to people only having access to western goods, as well as their awareness of western-styled clothes being more practical.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.379-387
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• 2009

We have previously reported that N-ethylmaleimide (NEM) induces apoptosis through activation of $K^+$, $Cl^-$-cotransport (KCC) in HepG2 human hepatoblastoma cells. In this study we investigated the possible role of phospholipase $A_2$ ($PLA_2$)-arachidonic acid (AA) signals in the mechanism of the NEM-induced apoptosis. In these experiments we used arachidonyl trifluoromethylketone ($AACOCF_3$), bromoenol lactone (BEL) and p-bromophenacyl bromide (BPB) as inhibitors of the calcium-dependent cytosolic $PLA_2$ ($cPLA_2$), the calcium-independent $PLA_2$ ($iPLA_2$) and the secretory $PLA_2$ ($sPLA_2$), respectively. BEL significantly inhibited the NEM-induced apoptosis, whereas $AACOCF_3$ and BPB did not. NEM increased AA liberation in a dose-dependent manner, which was markedly prevented only by BEL. In addition AA by itself induced $K^+$ efflux, a hallmark of KCC activation, which was comparable to that of NEM. The NEM-induced apoptosis was not significantly altered by treatment with indomethacin (Indo) and nordihydroguaiaretic acid (NDGA), selective inhibitors of cyclooxygenase (COX) and lipoxygenase (LOX), respectively. Treatment with AA or 5,8,11,14-eicosatetraynoic acid (ETYA), a non-metabolizable analogue of AA, significantly induced apoptosis. Collectively, these results suggest that AA liberated through activation of $iPLA_2$ may mediate the NEMinduced apoptosis in HepG2 cells.

• 모자간호학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.70-86
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• 1992

What is the meaning of menopause experienced by urban Korean women? Nurses need an under standing of menopause as it is experienced by women themselves. Nursing needs to build knowledge of womens' health experiences. This phenomenological study examined what menopause means to modern Korean woman to build a structure of knowledge useful for practice to enhance the quality of life of women throughout this experience. Traditional definition of menopause according to physiological changes, as illness and more recently as psychosociocultural phenomena were examined along with the folk lore information generally available in the society A review of the research and scientific literature was done from the perspectives of four models including the medical model of menopause as disease, the psychosocial model as positive and negative behavioral responses to menopause, a feminist model of menopause as a time of rebirth and a nursing model of the changing patterns of meaning, rythms and transformation women experience through menopause. Van Kaam's method was used to analyse data audio-recorded during interviews by the investigator with 65 women, 40 to 60 years of agey whose confidentility was assured. Interpretation of the data was enhanced luther by consultation with professional colleugues and with informants. Four rhythmical patterns of process emerged : from suffering to comfort, from oppression to freedom from being a good wife and wise mother to becoming a woman and from a hard life to an abundant life. The detailed common elements making up each of the four patterns and definitions of each pattern were presented. Each pattern was discussed critically from the point of view of medical, psychosociocultural, womens' and nursing models. The structural definition of the synthesis of the four process patterns was stated as : in spite of suffering the middle-aged urban Korean woman find she is able to help herself to feel comfortable and to realize release as she moves from oppression to liberation and freedom from being a good wife and wise mother she experiences rebirth as a woman : she begins to live a profitable and valuable life : her life becomes one of transformed abundant living. The definition transcends the medical and phychosociocultural model to embody a nursing model. The analysis was critiqued by using Parse' Human Becomming theory of nursing because the emerging themes were process patterns. Parse' theory provides and explanation of the experience of menopause consistant with the data which enhances nursing understanding of womens' experience of menopause. Parse' practice methodology provide guidance for promoting womens' quality of life throughout the experience of menopause. Feminist analysis contributes valuable critique to nursing research, richly expanding the perspective from traditional approaches to promote understanding of the meaning of womens' health experiences.