• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.118-126
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• 2001

The purpose of this study, which is related with local women's jacket Manufacturing companies in Seoul and Kyeong-Ki areas, is for the research of general problems, badness in those companies, noticing products' quality level, and full solutions of luxurious sewing technology and high quality products. The results of this study are as follows. 1. Most women's jacket manufacturing companies are poor and producing system is on a changing trend to the pair system. 2. A wage level of inspectors are low compared with working experiences and working period is short compared with working experiences. So, the separation rate was high. 3. The inspection form is full style, but some companies are just inspecting samples or frequent check. 4. Insperation method is highly at the rate of self-inspection and head office inspection. There are inspects in their factories and companies, but some companies don't. 5. There are lots of badness styles such as shrinking of fabric, contaminating of product, dying of fabric, pressing. 6. A work standard, workers' technical education, and giving purposes to workers are demanded for avoiding of products badness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.41-57
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• 2006

The purpose of this study were to provide dress forms and men's jacket blocks based on the analysis of their somatotype. As the result of the previous research, based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 year-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth and master size was selected considering appearance frequency. Somatotype YS(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 91cm) and HD1(master size: height 170cm, chest girth 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and men's jacket block in the study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of somatotype YS and HD1 were provide base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New men's jacket blocks of somatotype YS and HD1 were developed based on the body surface extracted by draping and the result of comparative investigation on the conventional jacket patterns by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new men's jacket blocks were provided. 3. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.3 s.162
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• pp.398-409
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• 2007

Today women's social participation is highly increasing, and especially the middle-aged women's activity is amazing. However, many ladies have trouble in wearing suits or jackets. Because the current ready-made apparels focus on young and slender women, and accordingly the current size system is made for them. So it is necessary to develop new size system for general ladies who are hardly well-proportioned figures. The survey of mid-life ladies in this Paper vividly reveals the above Problem. Many ladies dissatisfied with the fitness of the existing apparels. Therefore updating the current size system of ladies' apparels is badly needed. It also helps reducing corporates' stock-holding costs and customer's clothes-adjusting expenses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.136-152
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide dress forms and jacket blocks for adult males based on the analysis of their somatotypes. As the result of the research conducted for this study that was based on 1290 males of 20 to 54 years-old, the shapes of adult male were 20 and each body shape was classified by size factor, height and chest girth. Also, master sizes were selected considering appearance frequency. XS type (master size: height 165cm and chest circumference 88cm), Yd type (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 91cm), YI and AD2 types (master size: height 170cm and chest circumference 94cm) were selected to develop dress forms and their jacket blocks in this study. The procedure and results were follows; 1. The dress forms of XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were produced base on means of 61 body measurements and cross sections of shoulder, chest, waist, hip of subjects belong to each somatotype. 2. New jacket blocks for XS, Yd, YI and AD2 types were developed based on the body surface developments through draping and the results of comparative investigation on the existing jacket blocks by wearing test. Also the drafting methods of new jacket blocks were provided. 3. The sensory evaluation by wearing test showed that the developed jacket blocks were estimated more highly in terms of chest's allowance, the front width's allowance, neck wrinkle, front allowance and overall appearance's fitness items than existing jacket blocks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.8
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• pp.1378-1385
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• 2001

Textile The purpose of this research is to develop the design for activation of women s hanbok focused on functionality and convenience as well as on keeping the traditional beauty, and then to produce them. As a result of these explorations, I have reached conclusions as follows. first, the transformation of jackets and skirts are mainly limited to partial change in elements of the dress design-width and length of a jacket string and the upper strip on the outside of a jacket, change in width, and granting of symbolic meaning. Second, aesthetic features and formative beauty of traditional hanbok that the harmonization of mainstream colors and highlighting colors and curved silhouettes evoke were mental by products created as our people wished to become friendly to and to harmonize with nature. Third, grounded upon study of lines form and survey on brands, I have developed designs that maintain hanbok’superiority and at the same time incorporate functionality and convenience to fit modern life. I believe that the outcome of these of these explorations will contribute greatly to carrying the traditional beauty of Korean dresses to the maximun, and to developing and popularizing functional and practical living-fitted Korean dresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.608-619
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• 2017

In this research, we analyze jackets from the Paris Haute Couture Collection from 2000 S/S~2015 F/W to investigate how shape, tailoring component, and design of jackets have changed. Our analysis of 2,493 jackets from the collection shows that the hour-glass silhouette was the most popular among silhouettes and that standard-length was the most popular jacket length. Such jacket shape expresses the natural beauty of human body. Regarding Tailoring Components, our analysis shows that tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which is neither too wide, padded, nor low, were prevalent. The analysis also shows that tailored collar and button closure were the most common. Tight sleeve and natural shoulder line, which fit the body outline, allow the silhouette to show natural curves of the human body. As for jacket design, popular colors differed by season, but single-colored jackets prevailed, and woven was the most used material. Since 2000, the most favored form of jacket in women's fashion was a standard-length jacket with an hour-glass silhouette, tight sleeve, natural shoulder line, and tailored collar. This suggests that jackets emphasizing natural curves of the body were favored. Overall, silhouette, length, sleeve, and shoulder line remained consistent while collar and closure varied. This indicates that collar and closure method play a significant role in changes in fashion. Seasonally, elements of shape, tailoring component, and design coexist, but once the shape is determined, the tailoring component and design change in relation to each other.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.85-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for obese women in 20s and 30s, providing a good fit and appearance. The results were as follows: among 3 kinds of patterns collected in order to develop a jacket pattern to fit the average body of an obese woman in 20s and 30s, a business-type pattern(which was comparatively evaluated as a good fit) was worn and revised so as to design a final research pattern with proper fitness and a good shape. The biggest problem of the existing pattern was may overall spares, especially many spares of bust size, waist measurement, hip circumference, all of which makes a bad appearance. Considering the results of a survey which indicates that young obese women like tight-fitting clothes, bust size was decreased from 8 cm to 6 cm, and their waist measurements were bigger compared to other age groups, so a total of 1.1 cm(with 0.3 cm in the front, back side, and 0.5 cm in the back waist) was decreased. The hip circumference was decreased by 2 cm from H/2+4 to H/2+2 cm, the quantity of front deflection was established as 1.5 cm in order to compensate for the coming off of the front side caused by the fat on the stomach.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.