• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제45권2호
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• pp.84-92
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• 2022

White-Jade silkworm (previously also known as Baegokjam) variety is the most popular silkworm variety that produces white cocoons. In 2021, the market share of White-Jade variety in Korea is very high, accounting for 88% of the silkworm production. Daebaekjam, Dodamsilkworm, Kumkangjam, and Kumokjam varieties, which have recently been established, make white cocoons like White-Jade. In this study, we found that 5 types of HongJams produced from 5 varieties of silkworms producing white cocoons did not show any severe difference in proximate analysis. The amounts of crude proteins, the most abundant nutrient, were between 71.05 ~ 73.38%, and those of crude lipids were 13.89 ~ 14.69% in 5 types of HongJams. In addition, there was no difference between White-Jade HongJam (WJ) and Daebaekjam HongJam in amino acid compositions. The amount of unsaturated fatty acid was significantly higher in WJ than in the other four types of HongJams, but the omega-6 fatty acids/omega-3 fatty acids ratio was higher in the four types of HongJams. Most of the minerals were higher in four types of HongJams than in WJ, and three heavy metal were not detected in all 5 types of HongJams. Phytochemicals were also most abundant in WJ, but the difference in the amounts were not severe. And pepsin digestibility was the highest for Kumokjam HongJam and the lowest for Dodam-silkworm HongJam, but the difference was not severe. The nutritional component analysis results of this study suggested that four new varieties can be used for producing HongJams, and Daebaekjam can replace White-Jade the most as the protein source.

• 자원환경지질
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.485-497
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• 2019

조선왕조의 옥책을 구성하는 암석은 다양한 산출상태를 보이지만, 색을 기준으로 녹색과 백색으로 구분된다. 녹색을 띠는 암석은 방해석과 사문석으로 구성된 옥질 암석이며, 백색의 암석은 결정질 방해석으로 이루어진 대리암질암이다. 옥질암은 녹색조가 강할수록 X-선 회절분석에서 사문석의 강도가 증가하는 양상을 보여, 옥의 품위는 사문석의 함량과 관계가 있는 것으로 나타났다. 국립고궁박물관 소장 옥책 252점의 암종분류 결과, 옥질암으로 제작한 옥책은 104권(41.3%), 대리암질암 98권(38.9%), 혼합사용 50권(19.8%)으로 세분되었다. 두 암종을 혼합사용한 옥책에서는 대리암질암이 우세한 것이 47권(18.6%)으로, 전체 옥책의 절반 이상에서 대리암질암이 사용되었다. 대체로 옥책의 품질은 조선의 말기로 갈수록 떨어지며, 대리암질암의 사용 빈도가 증가한다. 또한 글자의 안료나 금속제 부속품 및 직물의 품질도 저하되는 경향이 함께 나타난다. 이는 조선 말기로 갈수록 약화된 왕권, 국력 및 재정 등 사회상이 반영된 결과로 보인다. 옥책에 사용된 옥은 국내에서 생산되는 춘천 연옥이나 부여 귀사문석과는 다른 광물학적 특징을 가지고 있으며, 고문헌 자료에는 경기도 화성의 남양 일대에서 채석했다는 기록이 있다. 남양 일대는 편마암 지대에 해당하며, 백운모 편암 사이에 석회암 및 석회규산염암이 협재하고 있다. 이 석회규산염암은 투휘석을 포함하여 변질작용을 통해 사문석이 형성될 수 있으며, 소규모로 형성된 옥을 채굴하여 옥책 제작에 사용했을 가능성이 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.581-595
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• 2006

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes are drawn from this study. Two types of costumes were designed for Faust. An old black shirt, grey checkered trousers, and a white gown were designed to express the old Faust, a respected scholar in his 50s, who was erudite and competent. Red checker of the shirt represented passion and blue checker of the shirt symbolized youth. The cotton trousers were beige, the most favorite color among male college students. For Mephistopheles, a white suit, black shirt, and white neck tie were designed to express the Devil, who changed his face instantly. A white suit symbolized that Mephistopheles looked like an angel, while a black shirt suggested that Mephistopheles, in reality, was the Devil. A white one-piece dress and light jade green cardigan were designed for Margarete, who was innocent and virtuous. The white dress represented innocence and purity of Margarete and the light jade green cardigan symbolized a maiden pure.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제39권
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• pp.219-242
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• 2006

충남 아산시 시전리 유적에서 출토된 옥기를 대상으로 고고과학적 측면에서 재질분석 및 원료산지를 해석하였다. 시전리 유적은 북쪽에 평야와 하천이 발달된 남쪽의 구릉에 위치한다. 이 지역의 지질은 선캠브리아기의 변성퇴적암류인 편암 복합체가 주류를 이루며 충적층이 넓게 분포한다. 이 유적의 청동기시대 4호 원형 주거지에서 한 점의 천하석제 옥기가 출토되었다. 이 옥기는 곡옥의 형태를 가지고 있으며 담녹색에 쪼개짐이 발달된 특징을 보인다. 또한 유리광택에 백색 조흔을 보이며 미세벽개 및 쌍정을 갖는 주상 형태의 규산염광물이다. 다각적인 정량분석 결과, 이 옥기는 광물학적으로 조장석과 정장석이 공생하는 미사장석이며, 보석학적으로는 천하석 또는 아마조나이트(amazonite)로 불리는 장석군 광물로 동정되었다. 이 천하석제 옥기의 내부조직은 Na-단종인 조장석과 K-단종인 정장석이 벽개와 쌍정을 따라 수 ${\mu}m$의 폭으로 교대조직을 이루고 있다. 또한 정장석 내부는 $K_2O$의 함량에 따라 교호성장 조직을 형성하였다. 따라서 이 천하석은 Na와 K가 상호치환과 교대 작용에 의하여 미사장석이라는 하나의 광물상을 이룬 것이다. 남한에서 천하석의 원산지는 충북 단양이 유일하며, 시전리 유적과 가장 근접한 미사장석 산지로는 공주시 장기면이 알려져 있다. 한편 청동기시대 천하석제 옥기가 다량 출토된 지역은 경남 서부 및 전남 동부의 남해안 연변으로서, 이 지역에서도 천하석의 원료가 될 만한 원광석의 산지는 알려져 있지 않다. 일반적으로 청동기시대 천하석제 식옥은 부장품으로 출토되지만, 시전리 유적에서는 옥기의 생산 및 가공흔적을 찾아볼 수 없고 유일하게 한 점이 주거지에서 수습된 것으로 볼 때, 시전리에 옥기 원료의 산지가 있거나 공방이 있었을 가능성은 없어 보인다. 따라서 이 옥기의 원산지와 유입경로 및 제작과정을 설명하기 위한 고고학적 연구가 필요하다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권1호
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• pp.99-111
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• 2012

This paper investigates the formative features and the historical meaning of the Korean dress collection held in the Horniman Museum in London. The Museum holds eighteen items of Korean dresses donated by Mrs. C. de J. Luxmore in 1948 and by Mrs. Bowra in 1953. Male dresses consist of white silk outer robe (durumagi), a pale violet silk waistcoat (jokki), a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), pale yellow silk trousers (baji), a pair of ankle bands (daenim), a cotton waistband (dae), a silk purse (jumeoni), a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja), a pair of rattan wristlets (deungtosi), a top hat (gat) and a skullcap (tanggeon). Female dresses comprise a jade green silk jacket (jeogori), an ivory silk skirt (chima), a light blue silk petticoat (sokchima), two kinds of white cotton trousers (sokbaji and soksokgot), a pair of silk wristlets (tosi) and a pair of padded socks (beoseon). A Korean dress collection of the Horniman Museum shows a set of ordinary dress items worn by a married couple in the 1930s and the 1940s. Of these items, a silk petticoat (sokchima) and a rattan under-vest (deungbaeja) can be highly evaluated as object resources in the history of Korean dress. The petticoat is a rare and valuable example that represents an early type of modern petticoat that has replaced a traditional petticoat (dansokgot). The rattan under-vest has square neckline and two tiny sleeves similar to a Western cap sleeve. This kind of under-vest is a transitional form shown between under-vest similar to the Korean waistcoat (baeja) and one similar to the Western waistcoat (jokki).

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.151-163
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• 2008

This study was undertaken to design Ginyeo's character and costume in the early-middle Goryeo Dynasty which had a few relics, and to make practical cultural contents. The famous Goryeo Ginyeos who had real names are costume characters. Goryeo women dressed in delicate white ramie jarket in "Goryeo-dokyung", and the shape of Jacket can be two kinds: long-wide jacket enough to tie a belt, and long caftan cover the knee. Goryeo women enjoyed wide yellow skirt, but Ginyeo in "Dongguk-isanggutjip" put on pink, flower, pomegranate, red skirt for high class ladies. In the case of Mong-su(a head cloth with black gauze train), it is thought that Ginyeo fold up train like lower class or just hang down like ordinary women, because of their status. As underwear, a ramie jacket and wide underpants were set up. It is needed that many Golden bells and jade trinkets must be attached to Goryeo Ginyeo's waist to stress their characteristics. Ginyeo's hair style can be designed so that a bunch of right hair was dropped down and the rest hair was rolled on reft shoulder. To design a Ginyeo's costume chatacter of the early-middle Goryeo, the richness of wide skirt, delicacy of white ramie, a great deal of trinkets must be emphasized correctly as a characteristic of Goryeo women's costume in that period.

• 복식
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• 제50권2호
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• pp.125-140
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• 2000

The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.18-34
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• 2013

This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.