• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.3 no.1 s.4
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• pp.50-60
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• 2005

This research analyzes whether affected some South Korea woman's hair style comparing change of West woman's head form after the mid-1940s. This research purpose is analyze effect that examine South Korea woman and West woman's hair style and compare change special quality and get in our country hair style until 1980 after the mid-1940s. This dissertation is literature research that analyze change process of West woman's hair style and South Korea woman's hair style. Investigation method utilized dress and its ornaments connection books and treatise, beauty art connection books and treatise such as the South Korea and western dress and its ornaments. The following is the chronological analysis of the influence the western hairstyle has had on the Korean women. The hairstyles in Korea have been profoundly influenced by the western culture, especially the western makeup styles and hairstyles. Therefore, exploration of the western hair and makeup-styling conveys a great significance in conducting researches on the Korean hairstyles. Conclusion of this research is hair style of our country received much effects from make-up culture specially Occidentalism, hair style culture by each age, European beauty art culture research can assume that scientific analysis of west woman's clothes and make-up is important in our country hair style research. In the future, it is believed that the cycle of changes in hair-styling will get remarkable shortened with the advance in the computer technology, which enables the world to have a much faster access to other cultures over the Internet.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.5-24
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• 1999

The results from the consideration of this are as follows. 1. Various kindes of entertainments were beganed by common peoples of old china. 2. From the Han dynasty Various kindes of entertainments are devided into the classic dance and music which was performed courtesy ceremonial meetings of ancient china. 3. Traditional drama dance and musics performed art by artist of old china was called collectively "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" 4. After unification of Han dynasty many commercial men and artist come from western to China therefore western music dance and drama acrobatic magic flowered into the old china so "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items was abundant. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" items as follows: 1) dramas 2) horsemanships. 3) acrobatics 4) magics 5) masked dramas. 5. "Various kinds of Entertainments" artist's costumes as follows: 1)For mens: *Old-china's "Various kindes of Entertainments" artist's costumes of Han-dynasty was Chin hyun-Kwan(진현관) right handed neck collor long coat narrow trousers belt just simmillar is official's dress of Han dynasty. *Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes of Westerner's dress is high top hats, lace trimminged round-necklong coat trimminged belt narrow trousers. *Another weaterner's dress is long striped patterned knee-lengh coat narrow trousers *opened top body and wearing narrow pantaloon short skirt short trousers. 2) For females: (1) Hair style is high top hair style twin high top hair style birds hair decorated high top hair style ribbon dressed high top hair style (2) Dress is knee-lengh one-piece west0-lengh jaket and knee-lengh skirt one-piece and short trousers scarf hart sleeved jaket narrow pantallons. "Various kindes of Entertainments(百戱)" artist's costumes influenced from royal families costumes to common peoples costumes without concern of that one's social positionon peoples costumes without concern of that one's social position.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.328-345
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• 2021

The aim of this study is to investigate morphological characteristics of Hanbok images in children's books and propose a direction for the modernization and globalization of traditional culture. This study examines 43 children's books by contemporary foreign illustrators that contain Hanbok illustrations and analyzes them from postcolonial perspective. The results include the following three attributes: first, the transformation of clothing structure and donning method that confuse fundamentals of Korean costume; second, the Westernization of silhouette drawing with tailored garments analogous to Western dress; and third, extension to East Asian dress that represents Hanbok mixed with Chinese or Japanese costume and use what is considered to be the East Asian patterns instead of Korean traditional ones. These attributes are based on Eurocentrism, which expresses and interprets the East from the Western view point with continuously distorted image of the East. Korean illustrators also painted Hanbok incorrectly, which could influence foreign illustrators. Nevertheless, traditional dress illustrated in various ways has artistic value and has a popular global impression. Further, it enables children to experience either own or other cultures through dress illustrations. Thus, the outsider requires an in-depth understanding of other cultures, while the insider needs a critical perception of their own culture as described by others while revisiting the original resources. Furthermore, we suggest follow-up research on Hanbok for subsequent generations; publishing translated books on various topics, producing and disseminating a primer for diverse readers, and essentially receiving counsel from experts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.39-48
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 두 종류의 다른 연구자료- 유물과 문헌자료를 이용하여 1950년대 초기에 유행하였던 미국여성복식 가운데 쉬스 드레스(sheath dress)의 디자인 특징을 고찰하는 데에 있다. 본 연구의 일차자료로는 하와이대학교(University of Hawaii)의 The Western Costume Collection에 소장된 1950년대 초기의 복식으로 추측되는 유물과 1950년부터 1955년 사이에 출판된 Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, New York Times Magazine을 문헌자료로 이용하였다. 연구결과, 1950년대 초기의 미국 여성복 디자인의 특징은 여성의 신체적 특징을 강조하며 여성스러움의 미를 극단적으로 추구하는 쉬스 드레스(sheath dress)의 ‘the straight and slender look’으로 요약될 수 있었다. 나아가 문헌분석을 통하여 본 연구의 유물자료가 50년대 초기(1950-1954)의 미국여성복식 디자인의 특징을 보여주는 대표적인 이 시기의 복식유물로 그 사용연대가 확증되었다. 본 연구는 지금까지 주로 문헌자료의 분석만으로 한정되어 왔던 한국의 전형적인 서양복식연구에서 한 걸음 나아가 과거에 실제로 입혀졌던 복식에 대한 이해를 확장하기 위한 또 하나의 연구방법으로 문헌분석과 유물분석(object study)을 병행하여 시도해 보았다는 데에 그 의의가 있다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.13-26
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• 2019

In this study, Western-style first birthday clothing for girls from online shopping malls was explored. Specifically, clothing types, forms, colors, textiles, prints/patterns, and trimmings were examined. Using the keyword dol bok (meaning "first birthday clothing") and the search engines Naver and Daum, online shopping malls that sell or rent Western-style first birthday clothing for girls were found. From 15 online shopping malls, 317 dresses, 76 outers, and 69 bonnets were analyzed. The one-piece dress was the main item of Western-style first birthday clothing for girls. Most first birthday dresses were white or ivory in terms of color; other common features were the bell silhouette, a high waistline, a midi- or knee-length skirt with multiple layers, and bow trimming. The upper bodices of dresses featured round necklines without collars and sleeves, and the main textiles used for dresses were satin, lace, organza, and tulle. Two main types of outers were jackets and capes. Most outers were white or ivory and waist-length or shorter, with elbow-length or longer sleeves. Outers were typically made of fur, satin, and lace. Most bonnets were also white or ivory in color, made of satin and lace, and decorated with ribbon ties and frills/ruffles. Because a precedent study indicates that a monochromatic color scheme was the least favorite and that consumers want a proper fit and length-adjustable design, conclusions of this study point to the need for color diversification; color combinations for two-piece dresses, outers, and accessories; and lacing or shoulder snaps instead of zippers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.57-75
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to survey the actual condition of education on the western clothing construction in Home Economics and Housework curriculum of high school. And the finding of this study will the helpful to the persons in authority who take part in the course of compilation of the western clothing contruction. The subjects of this study were 101 high school teachers in Chonbuk province. Their responses to the questionaires were analyzed by frequencies and percentiles. The major findings of the study were as follows. 1. Most high school had only a little educational facilities for learning of clothing construction of, if any, they could only show examples in practice. 2 In case of making clothes, students who sew by hand carried out drafting and cutting on their desks in the classroom. When they have practical training, 56.4% of them cheese only one of one-piece dress trousers, and skirt which are presented in the textbook. The related teachers indicated that content composition of the texbook was not fit for the purpose of the students level, and also pointed out the deficiencies of educational facilities, lack of teacher’s research and training, and lack of school hours of evaluation, practical skill was performed in parallel with paper-test at 73.3%. 3. Pajamas and one-piece dress presented in the textbook were the most suitable for the practice at 64.7%. They hoped that illustrations in textbook are so large and full that clothes made through the practice can be worn. Also they hoped that their opinions and wearable guidance will be reflected in the textbook. They emphasized the need of western clothing construction unit because of acquistion of elementary knowledge. The current amount of content composition was enough or excessive. In addition, they understood the curriculum of high school is rather closely connected with that of middles school. Their recognition of the rate of difficulty is very similar to that of other school teachers. They recognized the goal of learning should be applied to the real home life.