• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.7
• /
• pp.1196-1204
• /
• 1997

Cotton, rayon/cotton, and Tencel twill weave fabrics were used to investigate the effect of fiber types on the cellulase washing finish. And twill. basket, and derivative weave cotton fabrics were used to study the weave effect. Various fabrics were treated with neutral cellulase varying treatment times and with acid cellulase, stone, and stone-neutral cellulase respectively for two hours in a rotary washer. Weight loss decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencel, and basket and derivative weave fabrics lost more weight than twill weave fabric. Color difference decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and twill weave fabric had larger color difference than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Back staining decreased in the order of cotton> rayon/cotton> Tencel, and twill weave fabric had larger back staining than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Tear strength retention decreased in the order of rayon/cotton> cotton> Tencet and twill weave fabric had larger tear strength retention than derivative and basket weave fabrics. Flex stiffness retention decreased in the order of cotton> Tencel> rayon/cotton, and in the order of derivative> twill> basket weave. In cotton fibers, damage of primary wall was observed. And the cellulase treatment on Tencel seemed to roughen the fabric surface slightly, and to fibril fibers along the fiber axis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.17 no.5 s.84
• /
• pp.45-52
• /
• 2005

The optimum fabric design plan is recently needed with the relevant fabric shrinkage in dyeing and finishing processes for the various sensible fabrics for garment. For responding this need, the difference of fabric design plan such as fabric density, yarn count and finishing shrinkage has to be surveyed with weaving looms such as water jet, air-jet and rapier looms, and also has to be analysed with weave pattern such as plain, twill and satin according to the fabric manufacturers. Therefore, in this study, 420 polyester weave pattern sheets are collected from 5 fabric manufacturers, and the weave density coefficients of these fabrics are calculated using yarn count, fabric density and 1 repeat weave pattern. These weave density coefficients are analysed according to the fabric manufacturers, weaving looms and various weave patterns. And also the weave density coefficients of 420 polyester fabrics are analysed with finishing shrinkage according to the fabric manufacturers and various weave patterns such as plain, twill and satin fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.3
• /
• pp.43-55
• /
• 2010

The major advantages to use CAD System are that it reduce time and effort to manufacture products, and also can demonstrate the condition of the final product prior to the actual manufacturing process of the selected design using the simulation programs in CAD system. Specially in weave design, for use as Computer-Aided Weaving system, the complicated Dobby weave can figured out easily through calculating the complex weave plans of multi shafts. As to one of dobby weave structures, Supplementary warp is the warp threads which are in addition to the regular warps of the woven fabrics, and used for decorating the band or expressing some patterns. The purpose of this study is to research the weave design of Supplementary warp using Computer-Aided Weaving system, which is dobby weave design program of Weave Point. For performing this design study, it was researched the classified woven fabrics depending upon weaving processing, Computer-Aided Weaving system, and the characteristic of Supplementary warp fabrics. On the basis of the theoretical research, Supplementary warp was worked for the 24-shafts AVL computer dobby loom that applied to the various patterned images. The design work was done by Weave Point program of dobby weave, and simulated to fabrics before woven into the computer dobby loom. To see the visual images of fashion items, these simulated bobby fabrics were processed by three-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD system. All the patterns of the Supplementary warp in this study could be applied for decorating the fashion clothing and accessories.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.13 no.1
• /
• pp.279-284
• /
• 2010

This paper surveys basic research for data base system of the fabric structural design. For this purpose, the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics are analysed and discussed with cover factors suggested by Prof. Walz and Picanol company. And the relationship between weave density coefficients and cover factors of the worsted and cotton woven fabrics was analysed and discussed with weave pattern and yarn count. Finally, the process shrinkages of dyeing and finishing processes according to the weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics were analysed and discussed as a preliminary study for the data base system of the fabric structural design. As a result, the density coefficients, K values of the worsted and cotton fabrics were ranged from 600 to 1000, and the weave density coefficients of those fabrics are ranged from 0.4 to 0.8 and from 0.2 to 1.0, respectively. The finishing shrinkages for the worsted fabrics are ranged from 2% to 10%, and for cotton fabrics, it was from 2% to 20%. The weave density coefficients of the worsted and cotton fabrics could be distributed according to the looms, weave pattern and weaving and finishing shrinkages as a concept of the data base for the fabric structural design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.56-62
• /
• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• v.6 no.4
• /
• pp.306-312
• /
• 2005

This work looks into the behaviour of the twill weave woven fabrics during relaxation (when the weaving tension is released). Ten, 50-metre rolls of twill weave woven fabrics were produced. The fabrics were marked in a rectangular form at the weaving loom. After 48 hours of relaxation, the new shapes and sizes were recorded. The shapes of almost all of the samples were changed to parallelogram, even though they differed in size. The work showed that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the fabric structure. It indicates that contraction due to relaxation of the twill weave causes the woven fabric to skew. in the direction of the twill. The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill type. Fabrics with longer float length have higher skewness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.143-155
• /
• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.1 s.110
• /
• pp.163-175
• /
• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
• /
• 1997.10a
• /
• pp.35-41
• /
• 1997

Unit cell analyses were peformed to study the engineering properties of satin weave textile composites. Two 5-harness satin weave layers with fiber tow shifts were modeled by unit cells and repeating boundary conditions were applied at the outer surface of the unit cells. Multi-field macroelements were employed to consider the microstructure details and to effectively reduce computer memory requirements. Preliminary results indicated that the engineering properties of 5-harness satin weave textile composites can vary significantly according to the manner how the adjacent fiber tows were arranged in stacking.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.12 no.34
• /
• pp.701-709
• /
• 1974

A study on shrinkage after wash of several cotton textiles for embroidery on the market produced the following results : 1. As the wash temperature rises, the shrinkage increases. 2. Shrinkage of sample 2 and 3, variant weave of plain weave, is greatest, and the next is that of sample 1, a variant of plain weave. Shrinkage of sample 4 and 6, which have more floating, is small. 3. In the wash, thickness of the textile increases with rise of the temperature. 4. Strength of the textile increases with rise of the wash temperature.