The Characteristics and Weaving Method of Textiles in Daegaya Period

대가야직물의 특성과 제직기법

  • Park, Yoon-Mee (Clothing & Textiles Major, Gyeongsang National University) ;
  • Jeong, Bok-Nam (Clothing & Textiles Major, Gyeongsang National University)
  • Published : 2007.01.31

Abstract

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

Keywords

References

  1. 노중국 (1998). 가야의 정치. 가야문화도록 경상북도, pp. 442-443. 464-465
  2. 박윤미, 정복남 (2001) . 아라가야와 대가야 고분군의 수착직물. 복식, 9(5), pp. 73-83
  3. 김성연 (1982) . 피복재료학. 교문사, pp. 81-83
  4. 국립민속박물관 (2005). 천연섬유와 모피 식별 아틀라스. 서울. pp. 37-38
  5. 帯禁以金銀総孔雀尾菊翠毛震組'. 三國史記. 卷三十三 雑志二 色服
  6. 국립중앙박물관 (2004). 한국전통매듭. 국립중앙박물관. pp. 12-13
  7. 中江克己(1996). 染織事典. 泰流枇. p. 165
  8. 松本包夫,今永清二郎(1992). 組紐. 日本の美術 1. No. 308. 至文堂 pp. 20-22
  9. 국립공주박물관 (2005). 武寧王陵. -출토 유물 분석 보고서(I)-. pp. 156-160
  10. 松本包夫(1984). 正倉院裂と飛鳥天平の染織. 紫紅社. pp. 139-141
  11. 박윤미(2003). 加耶의 靭皮繊維織物에 관한 연구. 민속학연구. 13, pp. 93-94
  12. 박일록(1997). 韓園 絹의 文化史的 研究. 원광대학교 출판국. p. 49
  13. 박윤미 (1997). 佛題藏 織物을 통하여 본 朝鮮時代의 織物硏究. 경상대학교 대학원 석사학위논문, p. 22, 40
  14. 박윤미, 정복남 (2001) . 아라가야와 대가야 고분군의 수착직물. 복식, 9(5),p 82
  15. 한화교 (1991) . 직물구조학. 형설출판사, pp. 316-321