• 제목/요약/키워드: Wave breaking

검색결과 369건 처리시간 0.022초

The Hydraulic Characteristics of Artificial Reefs Used to Construct Seaweed Beds (해중림 조성을 위한 어초의 수리학적 특성)

  • Sohn, Byung-Kyu
    • Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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    • 제41권3호
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    • pp.215-220
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    • 2008
  • This study examined the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs used to construct seaweed beds. Theoretical and experimental studies have clarified the Froude similitude. However, basic data needed to develop a more stable design for artificial reefs must be collected from long-term studies and analyses of sliding caused by waves. Hydraulic experiments are important for solving problems in the design and construction of artificial reefs. This study examined some design parameters for artificial reefs under wave and currents. The results showed the stability of cross- and box-type artificial reefs for constructing seaweed beds using a dimensionless parameter (the surf similarity parameter), water particle velocity, and so on. The hydraulics experiment indicated that the stability of artificial reefs differed according to their method of installation. This implies that artificial reefs should be installed after considering various environmental factors, such as wave breaking, reflection, and sediments.

Computations of Free-Surface Flows by Use of Marker and Cell Method (MAC 방법을 이용한 자유표면 유동계산)

  • PARK Jong-Chun;SHIN Myung-Soo;VAN Suak-Ho;KIM Wu-Joan
    • 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 한국전산유체공학회 1995년도 추계 학술대회논문집
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    • pp.138-147
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    • 1995
  • The boundary conditions for the free-surface including the important meaning for both scientific and engineering purposes are described together with the numerical techniques to implement the conditions. Two kinds of numerical method based on MAC method are introduced. One is applied to the problem of 2D solitary wave propagation and the other is applied to the problem of 3D bow wave breaking.

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A Numerical Simulation of the Shoreline Change and Sediment Transport with Shore Structures at Songdo Beach Youngil Bay, Korea (한국 영일만 송도 해수욕장의 해안선변화 및 표사이동율에 관한 수직 시뮬레이션)

  • 이중우
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Navigation
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    • 제13권1호
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    • pp.77-106
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    • 1989
  • Two numerical models of the shoreline change and sediment transport rates, explicit and implicit, are simulated with shore structures such as breakwaters, a jetty, groins and a seawall. The applied study area is songdo Beach, Youngil bay, Korea since it has all the shore structures mentinoed above. The two models investigate the beach line changes and sedimen transport rates for the beach before design of three groins with and without an offshore breakwater. In order to estimate the shoreline changes after three groins were built, the beach response inside the three groin compartiments and the offshore barrier are also investigated. The simulation based on the initial shoreline conditions surveyed by the Hydrographic office, Koreai 1979 and 1984. The breaking wave characteristics are introduced into the models by calculation from the empirical equations and modification from the numerical and hydraulic model test results developed for waves behind an offshore breakwater. The numerical simulation describes well the tendencies of the sand transport and shoreline changes affected by wave diffraction behind a detached breakwater and by interruption of sand transport at three groins.

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Negative Drift Forces Acting on a 2-Dimensional Cylinder inSlightly Modulated Waves (유한수심의 불규칙파에 놓인 2차원 주상체에 작용하는 음의 표류력)

  • Hang-S.,Choi
    • Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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    • 제24권4호
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    • pp.1-8
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    • 1987
  • In this paper negative drift forces are discussed, which act on a two-dimensional cylinder exposed to slightly modulated waves in water of finite depth. By combining matched asymptotic expansion method with multiple scale technique, it is clearly shown that the slowly-varying drift force can be negative under certain circumstances: i) Incident waves are irregular or slightly modulated. ii) The water depth is finite compared to the wave length of carrier waves. iii) The gap between the keel of the cylinder and ocean floor is narrow. Then the negative drift forces are caused by the unbalance of hydrostatic force associated with set down. Real fluid and wave breaking effects are not considered.

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Comparison of Numerical Models for Nonlinear Stream Function Wave Theory (유량함수 비선형 파랑이론의 수치모형 비교)

  • 서승남
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제6권4호
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    • pp.353-363
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    • 1994
  • In order to give a useful guide for engineering applications on numerical models based on nonlinear stream function wave theory. collocation method and least squares method are directly compared input parameters of the revised Dean's Table (Chaplin, 1980). Two models ive both accurate and almost same results for all the cases except very long or nearly breaking waves. Overall comparison seems to favor the least squares method for general use.

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Experimental Study for Downfall Pressure on the Floor behind Rubble-Mound Structure by Wave Overtopping: Non-Breaking Condition (월파에 의한 경사식구조물 배후면에 작용하는 낙하파압에 대한 실험적 연구: 비쇄파조건)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Moon, Gang Il;Kim, Young Il
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제34권2호
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    • pp.27-36
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    • 2022
  • The large uprush could be occurred when the waves hit the coastal structure and this uprush by wave could make the overtopping. The downfall of the wave overtopping water over the structure brought about the vertical impact loads. The vertical impact loads should be evaluated in order to design the pavement behind the crown wall however these loads were still unclear. In this study, the hydraulic model tests for the downfall impact loads by wave overtopping were performed and the various conditions were applied to the tests. The effect of the incident wave condition, the freeboard, the armour crest height and the height of the parapet were investigated. The test results showed that the parapet on the crown wall could reduce the wave overtopping however the inclusion of parapet could lead to the increased downfall wave pressures behind the crown wall. The empirical formulae were proposed for evaluating the maximum downfall pressures behind the crown wall of rubble mound structure.

Distribution of Wave Forces at Points on a Vertical Structure of Semi-Infinite Breakwater Considering Diffraction (회절을 고려한 반무한방파제 형식의 직립구조물에 작용하는 지점별 파력 분포)

  • Jung, Jae-Sang;Lee, Changhoon;Cho, Yong-Sik
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • 제28권4호
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    • pp.240-249
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    • 2016
  • In this study, we investigated wave force distribution at points on a vertical structure of semi-infinite breakwater considering diffraction. Wave forces of monochromatic and random waves on a vertical structure are studied considering diffractions in front and lee side of the breakwater for non-breaking wave condition. We selected width of breakwater are 0 for reference condition. In monochromatic wave case, relative wave force becomes 0 on the head of the breakwater by acting incident wave force and diffracting wave force simultaneously and oscillating patterns of relative wave force occurs based on 1.0 as distance from the head increases. Relative wave force of monochromatic waves decreases as incident wave angle increases. Relative wave force of random waves is defined by using ratio of root mean square and wave force spectrum in this study. The case considering random phase of each wave components are compared to the case which don't consider random phase and both results are almost similar. Relative wave force of random waves is also 0 near the head of the breakwater likewise monochromatic wave. Oscillating pattern of relative wave force of random waves becomes relatively weaker for composition of each wave components as distance from the head increases.

The Stability Riprap on Scattered Submerged Breakwater due to Physical Model (난적잠제 상부 사석의 안정에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Park, Sang-Kil;Kim, Woo-Saeng;Lee, Jae-Sung;Kim, Sung-Hun
    • Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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    • 제24권1호
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    • pp.106-115
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    • 2010
  • This study described the stability of riprap, which was examined by a two-dimensional physical model of a scattered riprap submarine breakwater. Artificial reef structures made of scattered riprap are used like artificial intertidal zone structures as waterfront seaside structures. To prevent topography change in such an artificial intertidal zone the energy is reduced at the scattered riprap submarine breakwater by intercepting high waves. The breaking waves are converted into flow on the front surface slope of the submarine breakwater, which follows the upper part of the artificial intertidal zone. Because of this phenomenon of resisting water flow, it is very important to calculate the required weight of the riprap to maintain its stability. The results of a physical model can be abstracted as shown below. First, distribute the wave breaking types occurring on the front surface slope of the submarine breakwater and arrange it in relation to the movement of riprap. Second, using the hydraulic phenomenon that occurs at the depth of the scattered riprap submarine breakwater, propose a calculation formula for the velocity distribution showing the influence on the stability of the riprap. Third, propose and compare values, which can be obtained by experiments and calculations for riprap stability on the front surface of the artificial intertidal zone. Fourth, calculate the required weight for riprap stability.

Particle Motion Interpolation Method for Mitigating the Occurrence of Unnatural Wave Breaking in Fluid Simulation (유체 시뮬레이션에서 부자연스러운 쇄파의 발생을 완화하기 위한 파티클 움직임 보간 방법)

  • Sung, Su-Kyung;Lee, Eun-Seok;Shin, Byeong-Seok
    • Journal of Korea Game Society
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    • 제14권3호
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    • pp.55-62
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    • 2014
  • In particle-based fluid simulation, applying sudden power to particle raise unnatural flow when wave is breaking. To solve this problem, we have used an linear interpolation technique that interpolate between fluid particle by subdividing the time interval in the previous work. Acceleration vector of the particle with increased pressure in boundary could change smoothly. However, particle looks like flow with viscosity because the number of the minimum samples to interpolate increases. We propose an weighted-interpolation technique to represent the realistic movement of fluid. it is accumulating that has added and assigned different weights to the previous acceleration vector and current one repeatedly. weighted-interpolation technique using less minium samples to flow than linear interpolation, so it can solve the problem which particle looks like flow with viscosity.

Study on Mechanisms and Orographic Effect for the Springtime Downslope Windstorm over the Yeongdong Region (봄철 영동 지역 국지 하강풍 메커니즘과 지형 효과에 대한 연구)

  • Kim, Jung-Hoon;Chung, Il-Ung
    • Atmosphere
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    • 제16권2호
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    • pp.67-83
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    • 2006
  • The statistical analysis for the springtime windstorm in Korea shows that Yeongdong region has the highest occurrence frequency during recent 10 years. The objective of this study is to find possible mechanisms for the downslope windstorm formation in the Yeongdong region by using a mesoscale numerical model, WRF. Dynamical process, wave breaking (hereafter WB), is qualitatively investigated as the candidate mechanism for a windstorm event occurred in 5 April, 2005. WB is developed in upper troposphere downstream, since stable air is lifted by the Taebaek mountain. This process can cause and maintain the severe downslope windstorm by drawing the upper flow down to the surface. And the intensified downslope wind leads the hydraulic jump (hereafter HJ) in downstream region. Froude numbers at Chuncheon (upslope side), Seorak Mountain (crest), Yangyang (lee side), and the East Sea (distant downstream position) are estimated by about 0.4, 1.0, 1.6, and 0.6, respectively. This result implies that the accelerated and supercritical (Fr>1) flow adjusts to the ambient subcritical (Fr<1) conditions in the turbulent HJ. In addition, we find the formation of upstream inversion near top level of the mountain cause the intensification of HJ. Experiments to examine the orographic effect on the mechanisms suggest that the magnitudes of WB and HJ are larger in the experiment of higher topography, but there is no significant difference of windstorm magnitude among the experiments. Another important result from these sensitivity experiments is that the intensity of downslope windstorm strongly depends on the magnitude of upper (2~4 km) wind in upstream side.