• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.121-126
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• 2006

Modern Ocean wave forecasting systems predict the mean sea state, as characterized by the wave spectrum, in a box of size ${\Delta}x{\Delta}y$ surrounding a grid point at location x. It is shown that this approach also allows the determination of deviations from the mean sea state, i.e. the probability distribution function of the surface elevation. Hence, ocean wave forecasting may provide valuable information on extreme sea states.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.127-134
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• 2006

Based on a weakly non-Gaussian theory the occurrence probability of freak waves is formulated in terms of the number of waves in a time series and the surface elevation kurtosis. Finite kurtosis gives rise to a significant enhancement of freak wave generation in comparison with the linear narrow banded wave theory. For fixed number of waves, the estimated amplification ratio of freak wave occurrence due to the deviation from the Gaussian theory is 50% - 300%. The results of the theory are compared with laboratory and field data.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 1998

For the calculation of the free-surface elevation, a new finite difference scheme is studied where the third derivative term for the wave elevation is artificially added in the Eulerian expression of the free-surface boundary condition. The paper presents a comparative analysis with simulations performed by the classical MAC method. More schematic computations are carried out by changing the submergence-depth and angle-of-attack. The present study shows that this new method is very efficient for the simulation of free-surface elevation around the trailing edge.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 2010

Oscillating Water Column is one of the most widely used converting systems all over the world. The operating performance is influenced by the efficiencies of the two converting stages in the OWC chamber-turbine integrated system. In order to study the effects of the pressure drop induced by the air turbine, the experiments using the impulse turbine and the orifice device are carried out in the wave simulator test rig. The numerical simulation utilizing the orifice and porous media modules is calculated and validated by the corresponding experimental data. The numerical wave tank based on the two-phase VOF model embedded with the above modules is employed to investigate the wave elevation, pressure variation inside the chamber and the air flow velocity in the duct. The effects of the air turbine on the integrated system and interaction among the wave elevation, pressure and air flow velocities variations are investigated, which demonstrates that the present numerical model are more accurate to be employed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.266-274
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• 2022

In this study, a smoothing method was applied to improve the accuracy of peak wave period estimation using the water surface elevation observed from the Oceanographic and Meteorological Observation Tower located on the west coast of the Korean Peninsula. Validation of the application of the smoothing method was per- formed using variance of the surface elevation and total amount wave energy, and then the effect on the application of smoothing was analyzed. As a result of the analysis, the correlation coefficient between variance of the surface elevation and total amount wave energy was 0.9994, confirming that there was no problem in applying the method. Thereafter, as a result of reviewing the effect of smoothing, it was found to be reduced by about 4 times compared to the confidence interval of the existing estimated spectrum, confirming that the accuracy of the estimated peak wave period was improved. It was found that there was a statistically significant difference in proba- bility density between 4 and 6 seconds due to the smoothing application. In addition, for optimal smoothing, the appropriate number of smoothings according to the significant wave height range was calculated using a statistical technique, and the number of smoothings was found to increase due to the unstable spectral shape as the significant wave height decreased.

• Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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• 2007.10a
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• pp.61-64
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• 2007

Subsurface Internal Waves (IWs) can be detected in satellite images as periodic alternating brighter/darker stripes. It is known that there are two types of IWs - depression type and elevation type - depending on the water depth in stratified oceans. In this study, we have quantitatively verified the process of converting polarity from depression waves to elevation waves using ERS-2 SAR images acquired over the northern South China Sea. We simulated the evolution of IWs near a turning point with a numerical model for internal wave propagation. The simulation results near the turning point clearly showed us not only a conversion process of IWs from depression to elevation waves, but also a similar wave pattern with the observed SAR image. We also simulated SAR intensity variation near the turning point. The upper layer currents were computed at regular intervals using the numerical model, as the IWs were passing through the turning point. Then, an integrated hydrodynamic-electromagnetic model was used for simulating SAR intensity profiles from the upper layer currents at each position. The simulated SAR intensity profiles at each position were compared with the observed SAR intensities.

• Korean Journal of Remote Sensing
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.385-391
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• 2007

Subsurface Internal Waves(IWs) can be detected in satellite images as periodic alternating brighter/darker stripes. It is known that there are two types of IWs-depression type and elevation type-depending on the water depth in stratified oceans. In this study, we have quantitatively verified the process of converting polarity from depression waves to elevation waves using ERS-2 SAR image acquired over the northern South China Sea. We simulated the evolution of IWs near a turning point with a numerical model for internal wave propagation. The simulation results near the turning point clearly showed us not only a conversion process of IWs from depression to elevation waves, but also a similar wave pattern with the observed SAR image. We also simulated SAR intensity variation near the turning point. The upper layer currents were computed at regular intervals using the numerical model, as the IWs were passing through the turning point. Then, an integrated hydrodynamic-electromagnetic model was used for simulating SAR intensity profiles from the upper layer currents. The simulated SAR intensity profiles were compared with the observed SAR intensities.

• Journal of information and communication convergence engineering
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.146-149
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• 2008

Simulation and signal conditioning on the time domain surface elevation records are conducted to verify the proposed Welch's method in non-directional ocean wave spectrum analysis. These spectrum data are further conditioned to provide wave characteristic that better describe the sea states. Comparison of significant wave height and zero crossing period between the proposed method and a reference toolkit are presented.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.35 no.4
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• pp.845-852
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• 2015

The runup height is an important design parameter to determine the crest elevation of coastal structures and seawalls. In this study, two dimensional wave runup tests for rubble-mound structure covered by tetrapods were conducted. Incident waves at the toe include nonbreaking, breaking and broken random wave conditions. A empirical formula to predict runup elevation of rubble-mound structure with 1:1.5 front slope was proposed on the basis of physical model test results using a surf similarity parameter. The test results from this study were compared with those from van der Meer and Stam(1992).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1-6
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• 2003

Wave energy dissipation and energy transfer between wave components, during the directional wave breakings, are investigated. Directional incipient and plunging breakers were generated by focusing the multi-frequency and multi-directional wave components at a designed location, based on a constant wave amplitude and a constant wave steepness frequency spectrum. The time series of surface wave elevation was measured at 9 different locations around the wave focusing point, using a wave gauge array. In order to examine the variation of the directional spreading function, the horizontal velocity of fluid motion was also measured. By comparing energy spectrums, before and after the breaking, the characteristics of energy dissipation and energy transfer, caused by wave breaking, are investigated. Their dependencies on directionality, as well as frequency, are analyzed. The breakings significantly dissipate wave energy, through energy transfer, in the upper region of the peak-frequency band, while enhancing wave energy in the low-frequency band.