• Title/Summary/Keyword: Waist belt

Search Result 79, Processing Time 0.026 seconds

A STUDY ON THE COSTUME REPRESENTED IN CLAY FIGURES HWANGSUNG-DONG BURIAL TOMB (경주황성동고분출토(慶州隍城洞古墳出土) 토용(土俑)의 복식사적의미(服飾史的意味))

  • Koo, In-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.13
    • /
    • pp.21-37
    • /
    • 1989
  • In May 1987, 11 clay icons and other stone products were excavated in an abandoned ancient tomb which was located in 541-1 Hwangsung-dong, Kyungju. 6 clay figures of them were depicted realistically man's features and postures, costume at that time that they gave a lot of significance to the fields of Korean Costume's Academic Society. The main purpose of this thesis is to study the background of costume history when it was made and its formal characteristics with the study of those 6 clay figures. Shilla accepted the customs and attires of Sui and T'ang by means of frequent in coming and out going Chinese envoy as well as Shilla's envoy, monks, hostages, and students in China. From that period, the diversity of Shilla's costume began to develop by introducing Tang's style into Shilla's costume. Crested hat of men's clothing of the clay figures in Hwangsung- Dong is Bokdu Men's figure II wore Bokdu which Hugak is attached to Byunhyung. The garment is a Po and it is a tight sleeve and silhouette's Banryungpo. The horizontal line of hemline of men's figure 1 can be presumed by expression of Ran though it is not as accurate as the clay figues in Yongg-ang-Dong. As for torso part 1, it can not be known the style of the crested hat because the head part was damaged, but it were shoes, belt and common sleeve, Banryungpo on tight sleeve shirt and tight trouser. The hair style of the women's clothing in Hwangsung-dong clay figure is Bukkye peculiar to Korea. The costume was slim silhouette that people wore tight sleeve and short blouse and long skirt and belted on their bosom which dresses style was in vogue from late Sui dynasty to the early years of the Tang period. The silh ouette of slim silhouette's high waist which can be seen in the women's dresses is mainly worn by Chinese and affected Shilla's costume. Therefore the dresses style of the clay figures in Hwagsung-Dong, it is considered it is a dresses style of tight sleeves and slim silhouette together with the adaptation and abolition of foreign elements on the basis of Shilla's own elements like Bukkye hair style and tight sleeve and silhouette. The style of Yonggang-Dong's clay figures expresses spherical gei and common sleeve, loose silhouette of flourishing Tang's costumes planly whereas the style of Hwangsung-Dong's clay costumes expresses refined spirit of the Shilla(Shillaism) though it is extremly simple.

  • PDF

Study on Dai Meridian(帶脈) and Meridian Points(經穴) of Joining with Circulation of Dai Meridian through Literatures of Every Generation (대맥(帶脈) 및 그 유주상(流注上) 회합(會合)하는 경혈(經穴)에 대한 문헌적(文獻的) 고찰(考察))

  • Yang Seung-Joung;Jin Cheon-Sik;Cho Myung-Rae
    • Korean Journal of Acupuncture
    • /
    • v.18 no.1
    • /
    • pp.105-116
    • /
    • 2001
  • We examined and referred to some literatures on the meaning, Dai meridian and Meridian points of joining with circulation of Dai meridian through literatures of every generation. And then we came to get a few conclusions as follows. 1. Dai meridian starts below the hypochondriac region. Running obliquely downward, it runs transversely around the waist like a belt. Its function is to bind up all the meridians to circulate in a proper way. 2. The coalescent points of dai meridian are $D\grave{a}im\grave{a}i$(帶脈), $W\check{u}sh\bar{u}$(五樞) and $W\acute{e}id\grave{a}o$(維道). 3. Location of $D\grave{a}im\grave{a}i$(帶脈) is on the lateral side of the abdomen, 1.8 cun below $Zh\bar{a}ngm\grave{e}n$(章門), at the crossing point of vertical line through the free end of the 11th rib and a horizontal line through the umbilicus. Location of $W\check{u}sh\bar{u}$(五樞) is on the lateral side of the abdomen, anterior to the anterosuperior iliac spine, 3 cun below the level of the umbilicus. Location of $W\acute{e}id\grave{a}o$(維道) is on the lateral side of the abdomen, anterior and inferior to the anterosuperior iliac spine, 0.5 cun anterior and inferior to $W\check{u}sh\bar{u}$(五樞). 4. Indication of $D\grave{a}im\grave{a}i$(帶脈) is irregular menstruation, leukorrhea with reddish discharge, hernia, pain in the lumbar and hypochondriac region. Indication of $W\check{u}sh\bar{u}$(五樞) is prolapse of the uterus, leukorrhea with reddish discharge, irregular menstruation, hernia, pain in the lower abdomen, constipation and lumbosacral pain. Indication of $W\acute{e}id\grave{a}o$(維道) is edema, pain in the side of the lower abdomen, prolapse of the uterus, hernia and morbid leukorrhea. 5. The Dai meridian binds all meridians, produces pregnancy, grasps lumbar and abdomen region and controls leukorrhea. 6. Diseases of the Dai meridian manifested as distention and fullness in the lumbar region and abdomen, leukorrhea with reddish discharge, pain the navel, lumbar and spinal regions, flaccidity and hypoactivity of the lower limbs, etc.

  • PDF

Anthropometric Index and Nutrient Intake in Korean Aged 50 Plus Years Living in Kugoksoondam Longevity-belt Region in Korea (전라도 구곡순담 장수벨트지역에 거주하는 중노년층의 체격지수와 영양소 섭취상태)

  • Kwak, Chung-Shil;Yon, Mi-Yong;Lee, Mee-Sook;Oh, Se-In;Park, Sang-Chul
    • Korean Journal of Community Nutrition
    • /
    • v.15 no.3
    • /
    • pp.308-328
    • /
    • 2010
  • As the older adult period $({\geq}65y)$ is increasing, it is needed to investigate the trend of aging-dependent anthropomeric index and nutrient intake, and establish the more specific dietary guide for the different stages of aging period. To find the difference in nutrient intake among the Koreans aged 50-64, 65-74 and 75 years and older, and also any characteristics of dwellers in longevity area, we recruited 1,083 subjects (385 male and 698 female) aged 50-95 years (mean age, 71.3 yrs) living in Kugoksoondam area (Kurye, Goksung, Soonchang and Damyang counties), known as a longevity-belt region in Jeonlaprovince, Korea. We measured some anthropometric index and collected 2 day-dietary record. Nutrient intakes were analyzed by using DW24 program. The mean height and weight of subjects aged 75 years and older were lower than Korean national reference. BMI and obesity $({\geq}25kg/m^2)$ prevalence were significantly decreasing with aging. Underweight $(BMI<18.5kg/m^2)$ prevalence was also increasing with aging, especially in males, and it was slightly higher than national average, but similar to that in some other rural area. Obesity prevalence of male subjects was lower compared to national prevalence, but abdominal obesity prevalence $(waist{\geq}80cm)$ was very high in females (about 89%). In both genders, the average proportional contribution of carbohydrate, protein and fat to energy intake was not different between 65-74 years and 75 years and older. On overall, nutrient intake and quality of diet of females were inferior to those of males so that many of females aged 75 years and older assumed to be at risk of malnourished status. Fiber, folate and vitamin E intakes were substantially higher compared to those in 2007 KNHNES and other some studies in rural area. While almost nutrient %EAR was significantly decreased with aging in females, there was no significant difference in %EAR for protein, vitamin A, $B_1$, $B_6$, $B_{12}$, niacin, Ca and Zn between 65-74 years and 75 years and older in males. Vitamin $B_2$ for male aged 50-64 years, vitamin $B_2$ and Ca for male aged 65 years and over and female aged 50-74 years, and vitamin $B_2$, vitamin C, Ca and folate intake for female aged 75 years and older were assessed to be at risk to undernutrition based on the prevalence of intake below EAR. MAR of 13 nutrients and the number of nutrients consuming below EAR were significantly decreasing with aging in both genders, however, the number of nutrients of INQ < 1 and the average mini-nutritional assessment score were not significantly different between 65-74 years and 75 years and older. Taken together, decreasing tendency of nutrients intake and the quality of diet with aging was more evident in females than in males, and it is unique that our subjects consumed substantially higher fiber, folate and vitamin E compared to not only urban but also some other rural areas.

A Study of the Making of Ornamental Metal Quiver Fittings in the Ancient Tombs of Jeongchon, Bogamri, Naju (나주 복암리 정촌 고분 출토 화살통 장식의 제작 방법 연구)

  • Lee, Hyeyoun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.53 no.2
    • /
    • pp.242-253
    • /
    • 2020
  • Six ornamental metal quiver fittings were excavated from stone chamber No.1 of the ancient tombs of Jeongchon, Bokam-ri, Naju. The ornamental quiver fittings are metal, but the body of the quiver was made of organic material, so that it corroded and disappeared in the burial environment. The ornamental metal quiver fittings were made in pairs, and decorated one quiver according to the location they were found in and their forms. The ornamental metal quiver fitting can be divided into two types: A band style ornament (帶輪狀金具) which decorates the arrow pouch, and a board style ornament (板狀金具) which decorates the board connecting the waist belt. Two ornamental metal quiver fittings excavated from wooden coffin 2 of stone chamber No.1, were made in the band style, while the ornamental metal quiver fittings from southeast of stone chamber No.1 were identified as two boardstyle ornaments and two band-style ornaments for what was presumed to be belt loops. Material analysis of the ornamental metal quiver fittings shows that they are made of a gilt bronze plate attached to an iron plate, and the surface is marked with a speck of chisel to make lines and patterns. Chemical composition analysis (XRF) established that 24~40wt% Au and 50~93wt% Cu were detected on the gold surface, and it was confirmed that bronze corrosion had taken place on the gilt surface. SEM-EDS analysis of the gold plating layer identified a working line for glossing, and 7~9wt% Hg and an amalgam of gilt layers was detected, confirming the amalgam gilding. CT and FT-IR analysis established that the band style was double-layered with silk fabric under the iron plate, and there was also a lacquer piece underneath. The band-style ornaments have two layers of silk under the iron plate, along with lacquer pieces. Adding the fabric to the arrow pouch increases adhesion and decorative value. It is assumed that the lacquer pieces indicate that the surface of the lacquered arrow pouch had fallen together with the ornaments. On the other hand, the board-style ornaments have a thick layer of organic matter under the iron plate, but this is difficult to identify and appears to be a remnant of the quiver board. The characteristics of these ornamental metal quiver fittings were similar in Baekje, Silla, and Gaya cultures from the late 4th to the late 5th centuries, and enable us to identify the art of ancient gold craftwork at that time.

A Study on the Costumes of the Characters of Higyongru Banghwoedo (<희경루방회도(喜慶樓榜會圖)> 속 인물들의 복식 고찰)

  • Bae, Jin-Hee;Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
    • /
    • v.51 no.4
    • /
    • pp.44-65
    • /
    • 2018
  • This study examined the costumes of the characters in the painting titled Hig yongru Banghwoedo, which was designated as National Treasure No. 1879 in September 2015, and is currently kept in the Dongguk University Museum. The painting depicts a social gathering of Joseon aristocrats held at the higyongru, or watch tower, of the Gwangjumok, a government office, in 1567. It is characterized by the delicate illustration of the government officials, the main characters of the gathering, and the hyangri, ajeon, najang, chorye, akgong, and yeogi, the lower-class employees of the office. In order to investigate the costumes they wore, diverse materials including literature, costume artifacts, and paintings were used as reference sources. The scope of the study was limited to the characters' headdress and gown, and the accessories attached to the former. The study of men's clothing revealed that officials wore a samo and a red dalryeong as basic attire. In addition, it is presumed that they wore a belt indicating their official rank in the hierarchy, and a pair of black shoes. Retired officials wore a heuklip wrapped in horsehair or silk fabric with a red jing-nyeong and a doah. The hyangri wore a heukjukbanglip on their head, as well as a white jing-nyeong and a belted doah. In the Goryeo period, the banglip was a type of official headdress worn by members of the aristocratic elite ranked immediately below the king, but in Joseon it was demoted as the official headgear of the hyangri class, which was confirmed through Higyongru Banghwoedo. The ajeon wore a heuklip on their head, and a white jing-nyeong and a doah at the waist. As a rule, the najang wore a chogun on the head, and a banbieui on cheolrik and chungmokdai, but the najang in Higyongru Banghwoedo are depicted wearing a chogun and a cheolrik without a banbieui. Also, the chorye wore a heuklip wrapped in hemp cloth with a red cheolrik, whereas the akgong wore a somoja and a red cheolrik. Female entertainers, both adults and children, are depicted in the painting as either serving the aristocrats, dancing, or playing a musical instrument, wearing their hair in a voluminous, round, high bun, and dressed in a red daiyo, a hwangjangsam with a straight or reclined collar, and a belt. Notably, the donggi, i.e. young gisaeng, are shown wearing their hair in two short braids, and ddressed in a red gown with a y-shaped collar, or po.

"A Study on Hebrews Clothing in the Old Testament" - Especially on Hair Styles, Headgears, Footwear and Personal Ornaments - (구약성서(舊約聖書)에 나타난 히브리인의 복식(服飾) - 두식(頭飾), 신발 및 장신구(裝身具) 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Chan-Boo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.10
    • /
    • pp.63-80
    • /
    • 1986
  • The Old Testament cotains mention of the history of creation and clothing in ancient Hebrew. This study dealt with Hebrew dress customs especially aimed at the manners of their hair styles, headgears, footwear and personal ornaments. References are Korean Revised Version, English King James Version and Revised Standard Version. There is little mention of hair styles and headgears in the Old Testament. Some sort of turban was worn by priests, and soldiers protected themselves with helmets, but most Israelitish men went bareheaded except on special occasions and often wear simple headbands. It was more common for women to use headwear of some type-turbans, scarves, and veils concealing the face. The veil was the distinctive female wearing apparel. All females, with the exception of maidservants and women in a low condition of life, wore a veil. It was the custom for women to wear a veil entirely covering their head in the public. Through most of the Old Testament periods long and thick hair was admired on men and women alike. The Hebrews were proud to have thick and abundant long hair, and they gave much attention to the care of their hair. The caring of hair was deeply related to their rituals. Nazirites never took a razor to their hair during his vow-days, but instead let it grow long, as an offering to God. Men would not cut their beards, but allow them to grow long. The Israelites' standard footwear was a pair of simple leather sandals. This was one of the items of clothing not highly prized. In a colloquial saying of the time, a pair of shoes signified something of small value, and to be barefoot except in times of mourning or on holy place, was a sign either of extreme poverty or humiliation, as in the case of war prisoners. Because precious stones were not mined in the Palestine-Syria region, Hebrews imported them from foreign country. They were consumer-to a large degree limited by their very modest standard of living-but not producers. Hebrews liked the precious stones and were motivated to acquire and wear jewels. Besides their use for adornment and as gifts, the precious or semiprecious stones were regarded by Jews of property. The Hebrews were not innovators in the field of decorative arts. The prohibition of the Law against making any "graven image" precluded the development of painting, sculpture, and other forms of representational art. Jewish men did not indulge in extravagances of dress, and there was little ornamentation among them. Men wore a signet ring on their right hand or sometimes suspended by a cord or chain around the neck. The necklaces, when worn by a male, also bore any symbol of his authority. Bracelets were extremely popular with both men and women, men usually preferring to wear them on their upper arms. The girdle was a very useful part of a man's clothing. It was used as a waist belt, or used to fasten a man's sword to his body, or served as a pouch in which to keep money and other things. Men often carried a cane or staff, which would be ornamented at the top. Among the women there was more apt to be ornamentation than among the men. Hebrew women liked to deck themselves with jewels, and ornamentation of the bride were specially luxurious and numerous. They wore rings on their fingers or On toes, ankle rings, earrings, nosering, necklace, bracelets. Their shapes were of cresent, waterdrops, scarab, insect, animal or plant. Sometimes those were used as amulets. They were made of ceramics, gold, silver, bronze, iron, and various precious stones which were mostly imported from Egypt and Sinai peninsular. Hebrews were given many religious regulations by Moses Law on their hair, headgears, sandals and ornamentation. Their clothing were deeply related with their customs especially with their religions and rituals. Hebrew religion was of monotheism and of revealed religion. Their religious leaders, the prophets who was inspired by God might need such many religious regulations to lead the idol oriented people to God through them.

  • PDF

A study of Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments (중국 제복의 상징성에 관한 연구)

  • 이선희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.18
    • /
    • pp.111-131
    • /
    • 1992
  • This thesis was designed to study Symbolics of Chinese Liturgical Vestments. Chinese who regarded the life of human beings as the combination of heaven and earth considered garments as the traditional product of the movement of nature. Accordingly, they thought human beings are the center of the universe composed by heaven and earth and the chief of all things; therefore man only can utilize clothes to distinguish from all of the colours. This views of clothes led to the development of liturgical vestments esteemed courtesy than anything else, especially the thought of courtesy associated with Conficius who regarded courtesy as the highest things and since then the theory of Five Elements and courtesy were inherited by all the adherents of Conficius. Yin and Yang Five Elements in the liturgical vestments was given absolute symbolics in both formative side and in colourful side. results of research studied in this was can be summed up as follows : 1. The crown of rites was made imitating after the system of head, horn, beard, bread of birds and beasts and that form of crown is front-circ-ular and back-rectangular meant to be towards light and dark. That the upper part of faceplace is black represented the way of heaven and lower part of red symbolized the way of earth. 2. Upper vestment of liturgical rites symbolizes heaven and outskirt represented earth. So front of outskirt is YANG and back is Yin. It is why then are going to harmonize positive and negative making front part three width and back part four width. Therefore, emperor who symbolizes heaven made the subjects recognize high and low and wore Dae-gu(大 ), Kon-bok(袞服), Bel-bok, Chui-bok, and Hyonbok according to the object and position of rites so that he may rule the country based on courtesy. 3. As an accessory of liturgical vestments, Bul, Pae-ok, Su, Dae-dai, Hyok-Dai, Kyu, and Hol were used. Before Bul was used man dressed skirt as the first waist-dress in order to conceal intimate part of the body. Pae-ok, as decoration blended with jade was worn by men of virtue, so men of virtue symbolized morality and virtue by Pae-ok. Su began from Yeok, connected with Pae-su , in Chou-dynasty is said to be originated by practical needs and they are divided into large Su and small su, and maintained as decoration to signify the class positions. Dae-dai did the work as not to loose the liturgical vestments and leather belt hang Bul and Su to begin as the function of practical use are in later years it became decoration to symboliz e the class position. Kyu was a jade used when empeor nominated feudal lords and observe ceremony to God and Hol, was held in hands to record everything not to forget. These Kyu and Hol became to offer courtesy during the time of rites and in later years it became used according to class position rather than practical use. 4. As far as colours are concerned, colours based by five colours according to YIN-YANG Five Elements theory and they were divided into a primary colour and a secondary colours. Primary colours corresponded with the theory of Five Elements each other, Blue, Red, Tellow, White, and Black symbolized ive Elements, five hour space, five directions, and five emperors. Secondary colours contradict with Blue, Red, Yellow, White and Black and another as a primary colour and they are Green, Scaret, Indigo, Violet, Hun colour, Chu colour, and Chi colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour. This primary colour was used in liturgical vestments, that is, upper-vestments used black colour as primary colour and outskirt was used Hun colour as secondary colours. Thus symbolism in chinese liturgical vestments mainly began with heaven and earth and corresponded with YIN-YANG Five Elements Scool. They were developed as the scholary theory and Conficius and his followers in the later days and continued up to Min-dynasty.

  • PDF

A Study on the Blood Health Status and Nutrient Intake in Elderly Women Dwelling in Longevity Region in Jeonla Province according to Bone Mineral Density (전라도 장수지역에 거주하는 여자노인의 골밀도에 따른 생화학적 지표 및 영양섭취상태에 관한 연구)

  • Oh, Se In;Kwak, Chung Shil;Lee, Mee Sook
    • The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
    • /
    • v.28 no.2
    • /
    • pp.228-240
    • /
    • 2015
  • This study was conducted to investigate the dietary and other factors affecting bone mineral density (BMD) in older Korean women. A total of 340 women aged 65 to 74 were recruited from the Kugoksoondam area (Kurye, Goksung, Soonchang and Damyang counties), known as the longevity-belt region in Jeonla province, Korea. They were categorized into two groups according to bone status by T-score : a nonosteoporotic group and an osteoporotic group. Demographic characteristics were collected, as well as information on physical measurements, blood tests for biochemical indicators, health status health-related life style, dietary behavior, favorite food groups, nutrient intake and mini nutrition assessment (MNA). The results are as follows: The mean age of 185 nonosteoporotic women was 69.6 years and that of 155 osteoporotic women was 70.9 years (p<0.001). The mean T-score of the nonosteoporotic group was $-1.5mg/cm^3$ and that of theosteoporotic group was $-3.2mg/cm^3$ (p<0.001). Height and body weight in the nonosteoporotic group were significantly higher than in the osteoporotic group (p<0.001, respectively). There was no significant difference in BMI, although the BMI in the nonosteoporotic group was slightly higher. Waist and hip circumferences in the nonosteoporotic group were significantly higher than in the osteoporotic group (p<0.01, respectively), and the mid upper arm and calf circumferences were also significantly higher than in the osteoporotic group (p<0.001, p<0.01, respectively). The 5 m walking ability was significantly superior compared to the osteoporotic group. Serum levels did not show any significant differences between the groups and were within normal range. The serum total protein, albumin and Insulin-like growth factor (IGFs) levels of the nonosteoporotic group were significantly higher than those of the osteoporotic group (p<0.05, p<0.05, p<0.001, respectively). IGF was 104.7 ng/mL for the nonosteoporotic group and 88.1 ng/mL for the osteoporotic group. Physical activity and appetite in the nonosteoporotic group were significantly higher (p<0.01, p<0.05, respectively). The favorite food groups of the nonosteoporotic group comprised more meats and fish than those of the osteoporotic group (p<0.05, respectively). Nutrient intake was not significantly different, with the exception of niacin intake (p<0.05), but the nutrient intake of the nonosteoporotic group was slightly higher than that of the osteoporotic group. The niacin intake of the nonosteoporotic group and the osteoporotic group were 11.4 mgNE and 10.0 mgNE, corresponding to 103.6% and 90.9% of the Korean EAR, respectively. The MNA score of the nonosteoporotic group was significantly more favorable than for the osteoporotic group. In conclusion, it is necessary to maintain adequate body weight and muscle mass. Habitual physical activity may have a beneficial effect on BMD for older women. Dietary factors, such as meat and fish, higher intake of niacin rich foods and nutrient status for older women also appear to have favorable effects on bone mineral density.

A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Yong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
    • /
    • v.4
    • /
    • pp.87-114
    • /
    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

  • PDF