• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.652-659
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• 2008

This study was designed to testify the possibility and devise the method to manipulate the 3D body scan data to produce rounded-belt pattern adaptable to hip-type variation of women in their 20's. The results of this research were as follows : Firstly, based on drop-value distribution of hip and waist girth, 151 subjects were classified into three hip-types; Type 1 (15.23%) was 'cylinder type', showing lowest drop-value, Type 2 (69.54%) was 'average type' and Type3 (15.23%) was 'hourglass type' showing highest drop-value. Secondly, using CAD program, design lines for round shape belt were set on the surface of 3D scan data of representative subject of each type. And divided 3D surfaces were flattened onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. The measure, 'lifting value of round belt pattern', implying the level of curve ratio of pattern was higher in back than front. This result might be linked to the fact that the hip part is more protruded than the abdomen part. And the measures also showed highest values in Type 3(hourglass type) and lowest in Type 1(cylinder type), meaning that the pattern of Type 3 showed more rounded shape than that of Type 1. This finding implied that round belt for body type having high drop-value should be shaped more curved. Thirdly, difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves(body surface) and 2D plane(pattern) were 4.5% and 1.3%, respectively. This result demonstrated and solidified the feasibility of designing digital garment pattern from 3D body scan data.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.157-166
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• 2009

This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.225-242
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• 1997

This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.750-763
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• 2013

This research suggests pattern design methods for motion through an evaluation of the appearance and motion of three existing kinds of original patterns (K type, N type, and L type) and modified patterns designed by the researcher. The results of the study are as follows. First, the evaluation of appearances showed that the modified patterns of a standing posture received a higher evaluation compared to the original patterns only in N type and in a sitting posture. In addition, the degree of lowering or a natural feel by the pulling of the slacks waist belt in a sitting posture received a higher evaluation than the original patterns. Second, the evaluation of motions showed that modified patterns received a higher evaluation than the original patterns in almost all items. Per each pattern, it showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort as the whole in N type in crouching motions. The L type showed low scores as a whole (both in original patterns and modified patterns) and the K type showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort of the crista iliaca and groin region in the motion of walking at a normal walking pace, ascending stairs and bending the waist 90 degree to the front. Third, the measuring distance the between back waist point of the body and the back waist point of original patterns and modified patterns during motions showed that the modified patterns of all three patterns (N type, L type, and K type) showed less lowering compared to the original forms in the whole pattern as well as individual patterns. The design method of back waist point developed in this research can be regarded as a design method appropriate for motions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.604-612
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• 2015

This study investigates preferred bicycle wear designs that can satisfy active senior consumers. A survey was conducted on 50-60's women who periodically rode bicycles. The results indicated a preference for slim designs and red colors. Jacket designs preferences were for a tight fit for size tolerance, stand collar style, and elastic band details for cuff styles. Pants design preferences were for a whole band waist belt type with a tight fit style such as leggings in pants silhouette, zipper details on the side line and ankle length. They also preferred styles with pads attached to underpants in the pad style and the part of the back waist in the pocket position. The survey showed four kinds of jacket design drawings on an ordinal scale rating. Results indicated a preference for set-in variation jackets with the red and gray color combination. Finally, we demonstrated bicycle wear design suggestions. The jacket applied different armhole line colors connected to the sleeve to make the waist slimmer; in addition, stretchable material helped improve armpit part functionality.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권9호
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• pp.37-52
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• 2007

This research developed maternity wear designed with a focus on the essential functions necessary for working women and adaptable to their body changes during pregnancy. Through Martin's anthropometry for 201 pregnant women, the size specifications for maternity wear was determined and a dress form was proposed, in order to provide the manufacturer with reference data and a prototype to verify their products' fit and suitability. From a monthly analysis on the body measurements of pregnant women, significant monthly differences and after pregnancy were found in weight, chest girth, bust girth, under bust girth, waist girth, and hip girth. Dress form was designed based on the average body measurements of women in their 6th to 10th month of pregnancy. The standard dimensions in the 8th month were 90cm (chest), 94cm (bust), 86cm (under bust), 97cm(waist: most protruding part on the side), and 99cm (hip). Compared with Japan's MAT-9 (for nine months), chest girth was the same, while the Korean waist girth and hip girth were larger by 2cm and 3cm, respectively. The woven fabric blouse was evaluated as having the best appearance, while the knitted fabric one was judged as being more comfortable it terms of functionality. For the pants, the design details of the lowered waist and curved waist belt were more functional. The tailored jacket was the best design for working women in terms of both looks and functionality. To summarize, maternity wear for working women, unlike general maternity clothes, should be designed with consideration for the wearer's somatotype and activity. Elastic materials were appropriate for functionality and dealing with physical changes. With the increasing of working pregnant women, such trials are expected to continue in this research area in order to develop functional maternity wear with multi-purposes such as breast-feeding, wearability after delivery and shielding from microwave.

• Advances in pediatric surgery
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.102-109
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• 1996

Pediatric surgeons are familiar with the posterior sagittal approach to the rectum at sacrococcygeal area and well oriented with the anatomy because of the Penal procedure for imperforate anus. The author utilized the posterior vertical elliptical incisions in 12 cases of sacrococcygeal teratoma since 1987. For presacral tumor(type IV)$^2$, the incision was exactly same as the posterior sagittal procedure for imperforate anus. But the out-growing(type I) or dumbbell-shaped(type II & III) tumors, a vertical elliptical incision was required. For the laterally deviated tumors, a vertical and half-chevron incision was utilized in one case, but an unbalanced vertical elliptical incision was acceptable for the remaining two cases, with shrinkage of the overlying skin. In dumbbell-shaped tumors(type II & III), the narrow waist of the tumor was at the level of the levator muscle, which formed a muscle-belt on the tumor waist. A careful dissection to save the muscle-belt seemed to be the most important point during this procedure, utilizing the nerve-stimulator. After complete removal of the tumor and the coccyx, the levator muscles and the skin were closed in vertical fashion along the midline. For the caudally extending tumors in 3 cases, the muscle complex was divided in midline. Nothing by mouth and total parenteral nutrition was maintained for 1 week and then laxatives were given for 2 weeks in order to give the sphincters rest. Operative scars were acceptable resembling natural vertical midline folds, and the sphincter function was continent in all cases. In conclusion, vertical elliptical incision in sacrococcygeal teratoma is recommended because of the acceptable scar, functional restoration, and because it is a familiar procedure particularly for the pediatric surgeons who are accustomed performing posterior sagittal approach for imperforate anus.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권11호
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• pp.1510-1519
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• 2007

This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.