• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.450-467
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• 2014

Modern society attaches great important to state of the technology, but, unconscious desire and subconscious are also discussed in an important value. In the social background of such madness is acting as an artistic inspirational to the many people. At such a time, fashion photographs also being used medium which speak for people's desire. Editorial fashion photographs with unusual stories or including experimental visual elements unlike fashion advertising have increasing. The subject of this study is the formative characteristics in recognition of madness from ancient times until now and find out new meaning of the unusual and informal form of editorial fashion photographs showed in Vogue Italia since 2000. The analysis data of this study, we used 36 photographs of editorial fashion photographs taken by Steven Meisel, Tim Walker and Miles Aldriege. The final process of analysis made in with agreement of 10 major people. We used photograph's basic visual elements as analysis to avoid arbitrary interpretations. The content of this study is drawing in editorial fashion photographs from the viewpoint of Michael Foucault's Madness theory, Deleuze and Felix Guattari's Madness as the aspects of desire. The madness images in the editorial fashion photographs were showed as Decadence, Blindness, Violence and Grotesque based on the analysis results from above. The formative characteristics of editorial fashion photographs enabled the awareness on the value and importance of madness in modern society. These editorial fashion photographs can be the source of our wider perspectives for changing recognition of madness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.726-739
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• 2010

This study investigates and compares the changes in ethnic fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of ethnic trends according to historical trends. Data were collected from 59 volumes of "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 407 words and these were condensed into three periods according to the decade (1980-1989, 1990-1999, and 2000-2009). The selected words were classified into five sub-themes according to previous research definitions such as Asian look, European look, American look, African look, and Oceanic look. The results are as follows. First, ethnic fashion was highly presented in the 1990s and 1980s, and decreased in the 2000s; of note is that the Asian look appeared more in the 1990s. Second, ethnic fashion showed a higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1980s and S/S seasons in the 2000s, while both seasons had a higher frequency in the 1990s. The sub-themes of coexistence were presented 26seasons out of 59 seasons. The coexistence of the Asian-European look was evident in the 1980s and 2000s, while the sub-themes coexistence was more diverse in the 1990s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of ethnic fashion demonstrated the differences by decade. In particular, various fabrics and patterns appeared in the 1990s.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 1986

In the history of costume, coat can be traced up to ancient Persia but it was generalized as today's style around 14th an d15th century in Euro[pe. World wars, revolutions and rapid social changes of the last 80 years have produced more changes in the way people dress than any comparable period in history. Thewse changes enabled emergence of more modernized woman's garments and through it, dress and coat ensemble became public's main fashion. In 1920's after world war I, boyish style in woman's garment was in vogue. Woman's coat was also in the same style with length sortened up to the knee level and silhoutte was straighter and semi-fitted than previous period. Length of the coat was longer in late 1930's but shortened again in 1940's. And the most popular silhouette of both 30's and 40's was shape of the hourglass which was commonly called the "X-shape". Also double=breasted coat with fitted waistline, belt and flare skirt was in vogue. In 1950's and 60's, with the variety of lines in woman's garments, silhouette of the coat also appeared in many different forms. Along with the various shapes, color of the coat changed throughout the decades : dark colors in 20's, bright colors in 30's, mixed colors of 20's and 30's in 40's and in 50's, color had changed to archromatic. In fabric, wool was most popular in all periods. However, such gabrics as tweed, cotton, gaberdine, linen were added to give variety. It is very interesting to see collars trimmed with expensive furs were very popular in 20's and 30's but it almost disappeared in 40's and fur trimming reappeared in late 50's. In addtion to silhouette changes in design, details such as buttons, epaulettes, pockets and fur trimming of hemline were emphasizing points of varieties in design. This study has set time limits world war I which was the period coat became major fashion of woman's clothing, to 1960's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.91-100
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• 2010

In the rapid development of science, technology, information, cultural industry during the 21st century, hybridity is consistently shown in which different techniques, systems, and sorts in society, industry, culture, and art are combined. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of hybrid make-up that is shown in the field of make-up as a practical art reflecting society and culture of a specific period, to understand the tendencies of modern make-up, and to present data for predicting changes in the future. According to the results of this study, the hybrid characteristics of make-up indicate as follows. First, hybrid make-up at a timely aspect in which senses transcending times by mixed expression of traditional classicism and modernism coexist and mingled, Characteristics of hybrid make-up at a local aspect are shown in one make-up by expressing modern tendencies that break from homogeneity, uniformity, and concentration as interests in other cultures and borrowing them in modern images. Also in modern period, characteristics of hybrid make-up at a cultural aspect are shown by mixed expression of conflicting cultural factors such as modern beauty of cutting-edge technology, female & male, and elegance & activeness in one makeup. Within the multiplex, modern social system in this period of cutting-edge technology, "tendency of hybrid design" as a social, cultural phenomenon is shown to be a complex, new designing tendency due to mixture and deconstruction of various genres. Hybrid make-up, seeking diversification and open-mindedness, is predicted to be consistently developed owing to infinite materials of design, being expected to be stronger and newer in the future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.709-725
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• 2021

The study focused on the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Carl Lagerfeld, creative director of Chanel and Fendi until his recent death. The range of the study was from the 2017 S/S Collection to the 2019 F/W Collection, which collected a total of 767 fashion photographs, including 483 Chanel, 284 Fendi, with tops, bottoms and dresses at VOGUE (https://www.vogue.com). According to the data analysis criteria organized based on prior research and related literature, it was classified in the order of form, color, material, pattern, decoration, fashion image, item and coordination, and content analysis was conducted based on statistical analysis. Overall, the design characteristics of the Chanel collection, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, were rectangle form, tone in tone coloring, combination of identical materials, geometric patterns, and classical images as the main design characteristics of the Chanel collection. The design characteristics shown in the Fendi collection directed by Karl Lagerfeld were rectangle form, tone in tone coloration, hard material combination, abstract pattern, and total coordination. Comparing the design features of Chanel and Fendi, directed by Karl Lagerfeld, is as follows. Chanel and Fendi's designs show a lot of rectangle form, tone-in-tone colors, hard-materials and combination of the same material.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.20-29
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• 2006

Once people thought the phenomenon of 'Ha-Han' was only a vogue of young people pursuing oddity. However, when Korean TV series, Korean food, Korean movies and their music penetrated into our life and appeared on TV screens and fashionable magazines, all aspects influence of Korean wave finally arouse people's attention. 'Ha-Han-Zu' is a group of young people who pursue Korean popular culture even imitating their dressing, thoughts and behaviors. This article takes China the original place of Korean wave's popularity as focus, observes the reflection of Chinese to Korean popular culture and discusses the culture exchange phases of Korean wave as the center of popular culture. It can be more detailed that it bases on HOT wave from 1998 to 2004 and analyzes of popular TV series, observes reflects of 'Ha-Han-Zu' to Korean culture, discusses the acceptance to Korean popular culture and what kind of active reflection consumption giving to culture exchange.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.371-377
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to consider 1990s fashion design involving the utility of function which is the essence of modernism. First, documentary studies about the aesthetic value of the utility of function throughout the 20th century sociocultural contexts has been done. Second, content analysis of articles in American "Vogue" from 1990 to 2002 has been accomplished to hold the actual proof for the utility of function in postmodernism fashion. As a result, the utility of function has been defined the utility of body activity, the utility of practical use, and the utility of mechanical product. According to contents analysis, new aspects has been introduced in use of high-tech fabrics, ornaments, and mass customization in 1990s. In conclusion, the utility of function in fashion has been improved in accordance with the change of sociocultural contexts and women's wants.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.317-324
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• 2000

Pluralistic and diverse values exist in the realm of post modernism society. In this context, one particular outlook does not have the same meaning across the whole society. The creation and sharing of a new meaning do not necessarily need the consent of every member of the society. There have been a few attempts to delve into the relationship between sociocultural phenomenon and fashion trends in the pluralistic cultures. However, there has been little research on the theoretical framework in order to analyze a pluralistic phenomenon itself. The purpose of this study is to provide the theoretical paradigms to analyze and interpret various pluralistic phenomena in postmodernism fashion. Theories developed by Gilles Deleuze have been utilized to analyze and interpret the duct tape fashion which is in vogue among the young generation in the USA. The analysis based on the paradigm of Gilles indicates that the duct tape fashion shows pluralistic features of as in the other postmodern cultural activities.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.19-29
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is for consideration of John Galliano's fashion design works. Galliano, young British designer, became the chief designer of Givenchy in 1995 and of Christian Dior in 1996. Through fashion information from WWD, High Fashion, Mode et Mode, Collezioni, Vogue, Internet sites and video tapes from 1995 to 1999, his works were concerned for this study. The results are as followed; First, we can find dynamics in Galliano's works. The dynamic mood came from his study about historic costume. Second, new beauty from dismantling and reconstruction was expressed on his designs. Third, his experimental creativities were based on fashion business. Therefore Galliano's eccentricity signify the Maximalism against the Minimalism which dominated the end of 20th century. So we can find a clue to new millenium in fashion world in his designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.1 s.12
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• pp.8-13
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• 2007

The purpose of the study was to analyze how to express the eroticism on the female's contemporary sportswear. Six hundred fifty few pictures in the fashion magazines such as Vogue, and Elle etc., and at the collections through the internet from 2000 to 2005, were used for the analysis. Other related books and articles were also used for the study. The eroticism on the female's contemporary sportswear was mainly expressed through two ways such as direct exposure and indirect exposure. The details of the eroticism expressed through these two ways were as follows; 1. The extent of direct exposure in bust area and leg were excessive compared to other body area specially in tennis wear, swimsuit, boxing wear and dance wear etc. 2. See-through and close adhesion were used in order to express eroticism indirectly.