• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.3
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• pp.29-46
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• 1980

The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• The Journal of Korea Robotics Society
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.150-156
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• 2019

Haptic systems have been widely used for both virtual reality and augmented reality application including game, entertainment, education and medical sectors. Clothing designers and retailers initiated using AR and VR technologies to help the consumers find style with the perfect fit. Most of the developed augmented reality shopping is implemented by overlapping the image of the clothes on the customer so that he/she can find the fit. However, those are only visual information and the customer cannot experience the real size and the stiffness of the clothes. In this paper, we present the haptic upper garment which provides the haptic feedback to the user using cables. By controlling the length of the cable, the size of the clothes is set and by stiffness control, the compliance of the fabric is implemented. The haptic garment is modeled for precise control and the distributed controller architecture is described. With the haptic upper garment, the user's experience of the virtual clothes is greatly enhanced.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.1001-1009
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school summer uniform focused on middle and high school students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to middle and high school students, and 1,153 data were analyzed. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of gender in the design(upper garment) and design & activity(lower garment). On the other hand, students' evaluation of summer school uniform was significantly different in the upper garment(textile, design, activity), and lower garment(design, activity) by school age. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length and width of the summer upper garment(blouse/shirts) and the length and width of the summer garments( pants/skirts) were statistical differences in mean of gender or sexuality whereas there were significant differences in the summer upper garment(length, width, the length of sleeve, the width of sleeve, armhole) and the summer lower garment(length, width) by school age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-21
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify costumes described in the sumptuary laws of Silla in Sam Guk Sa Ki(三國史記). Conclusions and summary of the research can be summarized as follows. Pyo ui was an outer robe. It was worn by man and woman from all classes. Nai ui is considered as a kind of long inner garment worn under the outer garment. Ban bi is a short-sleeved garment worn over a jacket. Both sexes wore this garment but it was restricted to the upper class. Dan ui, a short garment, is a kind of jacket. Although records on this garment appear only in the items of woman's garments, it si considered that all people wore this garment since it was basic garment for the people of Silla. Bai was the bai ja. It was a kind of woman's over-cat with wide sleeves. Dang is considered as a kind of woman's outer robe originally made of ra. The upper class women entitled to wear the bai and the dang. Women wore skirts. They had tow kinds of skirts an outer skirt and an inner skirt. However, women of four du pum did not have an inner skirt. Trousers were worn by all people. Names of ban bi, bai, and dang were derived from T'ang China. These garments with their origins in T'ang China were used by the upper class people of Silla. They used those garments as a means of differentiating their social status from the lower class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.10
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• pp.1651-1658
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• 2008

This study was to decided the proper garment pressure level on the human body parts. Six volunteers (female: 30-40years) put on the same types of bands, a brief, and a non-woven gown. Garment pressure was measured in regular order with the elastic band on the human body parts such as the upper arm, the waist, the thigh, and the calf. At the same time, physiological responses such as the skin blood flow rate on 2 fingers, 7 different skin temperatures, rectal temperature, heat rates, and subjective responses about the pressure sensation, thermal sensation, and humidity sensation were measured and inquired. The results were as follows; 1. The thicker subcutaneous fat thickness, the higher the mean garment pressure on pressurizing the upper arm(p<.001). Also the thicker subcutaneous fat thickness. the thicker the upper arm circumference. 2. Heart rates increased pressured the upper arm and decreased pressured the waist, the thigh, and the calf. The higher the garment pressure, the higher heart rates on all body parts were pressured. Especially lean subjects showed higher physiological load than others. 3. On pressurizing the upper arm, heart rates, rectal temperature, and mean skin temperature were higher than without pressured state and pressured other body parts.4. The proper garment pressure levels were decided 30gf/$cm^2$ for fat people, 20gf/$cm^2$ for others on the upper arms and 24gf/$cm^2$ on the calf.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.153-158
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• 2004

With considerable development of comfortable and functional clothing in recent years, we need to evaluate the effects of garment pressure in daily wear on each parts of human body because the garment pressure is important to design the clothing. This study was designed to examine the effects of body postures on garment pressure on each parts of human body in the actual clothing conditions. All the data were collected from 50 volunteered subjects. The Garment pressure was measured in lune and December with 8 points CPMS clothing pressure system from scapular, upper am, elbow, under arm, front waist line, side waist line, abdomen, crista ilica, upper hip, middle hip, front thigh, back thigh, front knee and back knee. The postures of subjects were controlled with 3 positions such as standing (posture 1), sitting on the chair (posture 2), and sitting on the floor (posture 3) during measurement of clothing pressure. Clothing weights were more in men than in woman. It showed that clothing weights had no effects on the garment pressure. In this study, however, just the garment pressures on scapular and top of the hip increased significantly by clothing weight (p<. 05). Clothing horizontally pressed on scapular and top of hip but not on other parts. When subjects stood up, the garment pressure was the highest on the side waist. Especially, clothing pressure on the front waist point was lower than that of the left side waist. On the upper parts of the human body, the garment pressure of left side waist was the highest, and followed by front waist, crista ilica, and abdomen in order. When subjects were sitting on the chair, the garment pressure on the lower parts of the human body was the highest on the top of hip. When the subjects were sitting on the chair or on the floor, the surface area on their skin of hip and waist parts increased by postures. In addition, it showed that men felt more comfortable than women on higher clothing pressure level.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.353-363
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• 2008

The Purpose of the study was to examine the formative characteristics of silver fashion design by analyzing the silhouettes, colors, patterns, textures, and details in the brands for silver generation in Korea. Photographs of silver generation women's brands were collected to be analyzed with a focus on formative characteristics using SPSS packages. The result revealed the common formative characteristics of madam-brands and designer boutique brands-they both use semi-fitted silhouette with lighter colors for upper garment, and darker shades for lower garment. When it come to textile, upper garment was mainly made with hard and soft textile. In patterns, plain, flower print, and asymmetrical patterns were used for upper garment, and plain patterns for lower garment. Despite the gap in price, there were few differences in madam-brands and designer boutique brands with partial differences in the kinds of patterns, the proportion of patterns, the details such as zip-ups and buttons, beads, laces, and ruffles, and the use of different textiles for each brand. In conclusion, it is important to develop design that helps cover the body shapes of silver generation customers while highlighting the unique design of each brand for the development of the silver fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.532-543
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• 2012

This research is aimed at analyzing the image and preference of the school uniform of a girls' high school located in Ulsan. The analysis of 396 data were measured by the frequency, the t-test through SPSS 12.0. The results show that first, in the image, they associated a cold color, short v zone, necktie with mannish image, a coordination between boxy jacket and flared skirt or silhouette mixture of mannish image and feminie image with unfashionable. Second, sensibility images that they prefers differed significantly in mature, soft, and practical images between different academic spheres, and in terms of refined image between different grades. Third, in preference of school uniform wearing, photo 9 showed the significance by groups and photo 6 showed it by grade. As a result of uniform design preference analysis, significant differences were by academic shown on photo 2 in total harmony and color combination, on photo 3 in details, on photo 7 in lower garment design, on photo 8 in upper garment design, on photo 9 in total harmony, upper garment design, lower garment design, color combination and details. Meanwhile, photo 1 showed the significance by grade in color combination, photo 4 in total harmony and upper garment design, photo 7 in upper garment design, respectively. Through this study, we could assume schoolgirls' attitude toward school uniform currently worn by them and it is considered to be used for resolving diverse problems which have been raised when school uniform design is being planned to satisfy students' desires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.9
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• pp.1049-1059
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• 2011

This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.