• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• 대한심미치과학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.64-70
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• 1998

Recently as the interest on Esthetic Dental Prosthesis is arising, the domains of Esthetic Dentistry is being widely investigated. Esthetic Dental Prosthesis is influenced greatly by the shape, color, tooth arrangement of the teeth and the facial features(including the lips). So the degree to which these characters harmonize will be the professional esthetical standard while the satisfaction of the patient will be another esthetical measure. The reason for this is that each and every one of us has a different standard of what is considered beautiful. Of course it doesn't mean that every standard is correct. Then what does Esthetical Prosthesis mean and what should the standard be? This must be defined as a prosthesis that satisfies the basic requirements - margin, contour, occlusion, and at the same time it should restore the shape, color, and tooth arrangement which the client(patient) would love to have. As Esthetic Prosthesis contains its subjective meaning a great deal, it shouldn't be simply distinguished between the beauty of the teeth itself or ugliness. Also in some case, it needs surgical treatment to make it harmonious in the whole aspect so that one may keep the feeling of satisfaction and security. Then what is the shape, color, tooth arrangement that each individual wants? There is an indefinite variety. For example, considering arrangement both regular and irregular is considered beautiful by each different individual. Regular arrangement may be the standard of beauty for some, while irregular arrangement may be thought of as natural looking and beautiful. That is why there must be enough communication with the patient and an agreement be made at the clinic before a diagnostic plan and actual surgery. The treatment plan as mentioned above must be sent to the dental laboratory. In this research, by using case studies, I am going to the importance and appropriateness of the data and information for the dental technician's esthetic prosthesis.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.436-499
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to be inquired social and cultural significance of the Grotesque phenomenon in the late 1990's make-up, as well as its experimentalism and avantgardism. The Grotesque is the aesthetic concept, which is composed of ambivalent structure of humor and horror, interest and disgust through join of heterogenous factors, distortion, extreme and overstatement in the patterns and materials of make-up. The Grotesque in the modern make-up is represented in the make-up advertisements and collections. In this paper, the author classified the Grotesque phenomenon with the Kitsch, the Machine, the Animal and the Devil, focused on heterogenous factors. The results are as follows. 1. The Kitsch in the make-up uses not cosmetics but imitations, ready-made goods, and ordinary materials. It expresses modern culture's laziness through shocking self-expression. 2. The Machine in the make-up means silver or white color's make-up, and represents cyber period's arrival through contrary irony, loss of the human value and the personifications of machine. At the same time, it is understood as the curing of human alinetion. 3. The Animal in the make-up utilizes the wild animal's horn, the reptiles'sputum, and the legend's animal. It points out a human false virtual image, and overturns make-up's traditional aesthetic concept. 4. The Devil in the make-up shows vampire's cuspid, demon's horn, artificial nail, and black color's make-up. It raises social irrationality and discrepancy of capitalism, and expresses paradoxically the nature of human life. The Devil in the make-up expresses the creator's innovation, anxiety of fin-de-siecle, and simultaneously criticizes and cures confused reality. It shows also avantgarde implementation of dissolution of traditional aesthetic concept and acceptance ugliness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.76-89
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• 2009

Popular music unites people who have different genders, ages, locals, and values. Through the popular music, youth interchange their emotion and create their fashion. Fashion and music formed the twin pillars on which the first historically significant youth sub-culture was built. Glam rock and Punk rock which won popularity in the 1970s influenced the fashion of the times. The purpose of this study is to compare Glam and Punk make-up which appeared as a symbol of the rebel against an older generation. The methodology utilized in this study was the analysis of materials from the survey through the literature, internet sites, and visual references. The results of this study are as follows: In face make-up, Glam used a white base to appear cosmic; on the other hand, Punk used a white base to appear pale and horrid. In eye make-up, Glam used black, pink, and blue eye shadow, and accented the eye by using black eye lines. Punk used black eye shadow, and drew black circles or squares around eyes. In lip make-up, Glam used pink, purple, red, and black lip color and silver and pink lip gloss to glitter. Punk used red and black lip color to appear horrid. In body make-up, Glam used glitter powder to appear with a bright skin. Punk drew tattoos and horror patterns in their body. The common themes of Glam and Punk make-up were rebellion, androgyny, and the beauty of ugliness as well as a self-created persona.

• 셀메드
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.7.1-7.3
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• 2017

Ok-jin Gong's hunchback dance is considered to be a strange dance in Korea. However, there have been no reports of the effects of music and dance therapy as a pain treatment. The aim of this article is to argue that watching and listening to the hunchback dance of Ok-jin Gong may have significant effects as a form of pain treatment. The creator of this style of dance suspected that dance in general can be an outlet for our inner emotions. Her dance in this case has received critical and complimentary reviews as well. However she has been cited as the main culprit behind the destruction of traditional dance forms in the Korean dance world. Nonetheless, her bewitching stage presence attracted much attention. She satirized the feelings of the under privileged' through music and dance. We tend to feel somehow relative poverty and small in the presence of a rich and successful man. On the other hand, the artist felt that it is the public who would be relatively comforted and satisfied in the presence of the weak and handicapped. A free spirit that makes us forget pain is the very essence of her dancing. Her dance and music sound as if she sublimated her sadness and ugliness, changing it to happiness and beauty. She puts herself in a low position and spreads a sense of freedom and relief to the world. Hence, the author felt that innumerable people have been comforted in these ways by her dance.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.638-653
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• 2014

The structure of noble centered social status of the late Joseon Dynasty collapsed due to the commoner's higher status and increased level of consciousness caused by the growth of commerce and agriculture. In art, the a Korean and ethnical style dominated; however, with a diversity in the depiction of human figures in portraits, Buddhist paintings, genre paintings and folklore paintings. This study examines the diversity in human figures expressed in the paintings of the late Joseon Dynasty by expanding the common aesthetic fixed to the typical Joseon style of renowned painters. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The human figure is categorized into three different types of 'realistic', 'ideal', and 'distortion' based on the aesthetic category. First, the realistic type is defined literally by its realistic and detailed depiction of noble class portraits classified as extreme type and general type. The extreme type's formative element is hypersubtlety which includes a simultaneous aesthetic of aptness and ugliness. The general type shows subtlety with aesthetic of aptness. Second, the ideal type is defined by representing the standard form of time and criteria classified as beautified type, absolute type, and dignified type. Each shows a different character of gender of femininity, androgyny, and masculinity. Third, distortion types are defined by a characteristic expression of humans by transshaping the features in various methods categorized as grotesque, abjection, friendly, rustic, and caricature type. Each shows different formative elements of bizarre, patheticness, voluptuous, inartificial, and immaturity.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제25권
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• pp.213-236
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• 2011

The negative symbol of 'American imperialism', which was reinterpreted superimposed on the symbol imposed on Japanese imperialism in the 1945 Liberation of Korea, was more amplified added by the experiences of the bombing and massacre by US troops during the Korean War. In other words, the symbol of the extreme 'American imperialism' in the liberation in which even the role of America contributing to the liberation of Josun had been denied had continued for a long time adhered to and amplified through the war. Thus, unlike the current emphasis laid by North Josun, the assertion in the form of 'American imperialism=Korean wolf' is an idea made from the mixture of fact and fiction combined with the theory of imperialism rediscovered in the liberation and the experience of massacre during the Korean War. And this superimposed symbol for American imperialism naturally causes the problem of being superimposed also on the symbol of North Josun. And the extreme formalization for 'good' and 'bad' sides was based on the dichotomous compositions of beauty and ugliness, good and evil. The ground for saying that an act by a good side is 'unconditionally' legitimate is nowhere found. The anti-American viewpoint rediscovered in such an extreme form results in one aspect of criticism and resemblance as a result of being locked up in the same violence which one has rejected by oneself. The anti-American viewpoint going on in the form of anti-imperialist nationalism leaves nothing except another terrible retaliation for terrible brutality. It is self-evident that one can never get out of the enchanting power of imperialism which North Josun has continuously criticized in a ring of violence and vengeance, the familiar grammar commanded by North Josun literature.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.35-45
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• 2019

This study was initiated to add value to fashion illustration as a genre of plastic art, as its importance as a progressive visual art is growing. The research purpose is to analyze characteristics of Grotesque, a subculture that emerged from the challenges and problems of groups which deviated from social and cultural trends, and to develop fashion design illustration utilizing the characteristics unique to that subculture. As a method of research, this study examined the characteristics and expression methods of Grotesque, which appeared in fashion literature, referenced a prior study of Grotesque, and developed fashion design illustration using Grotesque as a based. The result of this study are as follows. First, the characteristics of Grotesque that are applicable to fashion illustration were derived as 'evil, aversion, playfulness, heterogeneity, and abnormality'. Second, the expressive elements of Grotesques, reflecting the beauty of ugliness, present a methodology for developing new and creative fashion design illustrations. Third, it was found that Grotesque fashion illustration is a visual tool that is suitable for expressing the problematic origins of human existence, values, alienation, and social chaos. Fourth, 'arthropod' motifs were identified as a suitable theme for extracting the newly integrated Grotesque images through the process of contradiction and confrontation between humans and objects. Fifth, the Grotesque fashion illustrations could be understood in terms of plastic arts, and could provide a gateway to rediscovering human dignity. Based on the finding, we expect that creative design thinking and development that combines the motifs of various themes and Grotesque's expressive methods will proceed more deeply and specifically.

• 트랜스-
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• 제15권
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• pp.105-140
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• 2023

본 연구는 독일 표현주의 무용과 그로테스크 예술의 상호관계를 조사하고, 이를 바탕으로 피나 바우쉬(Pina Bausch, 1940-2009)의 <Café Müller(1980)> 작품을 분석한다. 독일 표현주의 무용은 제1차 세계대전으로 인한 사회적 불안정과 경제적 불황의 영향을 받아 표현주의와 그로테스크 미학이 도입되었다. 그로테스크 표현은 인간의 파괴된 모습과 그 근본 원인을 과감하게 표출하여 사회적 모순과 인간 본질의 상실감을 비판적으로 보여주는 역할을 한다. 연구자는 독일 표현주의 무용과 그로테스크 표현의 관련성을 탐구하고, 피나 바우쉬의 <카페 뮐러> 작품을 분석하여 표현주의 무용의 의미와 중요성을 재조명한다. 또한, 작품 내 그로테스크 성향을 시각적 아름다움과 추의 기준에서 벗어나 작품 내용의 본질로 탐구하고, 무용수의 움직임, 청각 요소를 통해 그로테스크 표현성이 전달하는 의미를 재해석한다.

• 복식
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• 제24권
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.