• Journal of Crop Science and Biotechnology
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.223-230
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• 2007

Vitellaria paradoxa commonly called shea is an important agro forestry and fruit-bearing species present in four agro-ecological zones of Cameroon. The goal of this work was the morphological characterization of certain populations of V. paradoxa which will serve as a necessary step for a subsequent genetic study of the species. Morphological observations related to 20 agronomic traits, studied on 8-13 trees selected from each of the eight shea populations across four different agro-ecological zones located in four provinces of Cameroon were studied. The study showed that there was a variation between the populations, related to the traits measured on the trunk, fruit, nut, and leaf. Three shapes of the tree(ball, broom, and trained), five shapes of the fruit(round, oblong, reversed pear, ovoid, and oblong), three colors of the nut(clear brown, dark brown, and blackish brown) were identified. The principal component analysis(PCA) carried out on the quantitative characters revealed 72% of the total variance expressed on the first and second main axis. This variation was essentially explained by the traits measured on the fruits and on the nuts. The analyses showed that only the traits of the fruits and the nuts were discriminative. The shea populations studied were structured into two distinct groups using these discriminative traits.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.10-20
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• 2009

The objective of this study is to investigate the efficacy of leaf powder colorants as substitutes for traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. Three kinds of leaf powder colorants were prepared by freeze drying method with or without deep freezing as pre-treatment: one powder colorant from fresh leaf juice with deep freezing; two kinds of powder colorant from fresh leaves with and without deep freezing. Their dyeing properties and storage stabilities were studied and compared with the traditional fresh juice extract dyeing. The presence of indigo in the powder colorants was confirmed by UV/Visible absorption spectra. They showed absorption peak at 602nm which was same with indigo absorption peak. Dyeing was done at low temperature around 6$^{\circ}C$. All three powder colorants produced B colors on silk fabrics, showing similar color to the one dyed traditionally with fresh juice extract. The powder colorants from leaves gave higher color strength than the powder from leaf juice. The powder colorant prepared from leaves with deep freezing was the most stable for long term storage as its color and color strength were not changed after 360 days. So, this was used for further dyeing to study the effects of concentration and repeat dyeing on color strength and colorfastness. Fastnesses to dry cleaning and rubbing were fairly good above 4 rating. Further study is needed to improve light fastness. It was concluded that the leaf powder colorant with deep freezing could be used as a substitute for traditional juice extract dyeing at all seasons.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.56-72
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.40-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the shirt market, to find out the shirt trend in 2005 A/W, to analysis shirt style Preference, and to investigate the shirts purchase attitude according to the income, age, and occupation of the 321 respondents, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics. The results from the study were as follows ; In 2005 A/W, Countessmara, Daks, Dupont, Renoma, and Yesac were commomly distributed in 5 department stores in Daejon and Seoul. There were seen trends that were pursuing a various fabric, colors, details, and high-touch design in shirt. Men workers prefered the Basic and Modern casual style to Soft, Sophisticated, Modern mannish, and Trendy style shirt. The 133(41.4%)respondents estimated that the important viewpoint in purchasing dress shirts was 'Design. The 212(66%) respondents estimated that they prefered the different shirt brand from their suits. And results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). The 103 (32.1%) respondents estimated that they possessed the three shirts per one suits. The 201(62.6%) respondents estimated that they prefered the department store for purchasing shirt. And, the 114(35.5%) respondents estimated that the first important information source which influenced on purchasing dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%).

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.117-128
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to understand changes of the current young generation's lifestyle, aesthetic attitude for an appearance, and way of thinking by making a close investigation into metrosexual, the recent mode, and find out its cultural and social implications. As a method of the study, the literature and the Internet data were reviewed. Articles from newspapers, magazines and the Internet were chosen roughly from the year 2000 to now because metrosexual mode remarkably boomed before and after 2000. Books related to the theory on the mode in a costume culture were referred. Also, articles in daily newspapers which dealt with cultural and social issues were reviewed, fashion magazines for men such as Esquire and GQ showing the new trend in men's lifestyle and fashion were examined, and the Internet providing us the latest news from cultural and social topics to fashion trends were investigated. The backgrounds of the rise of metrosexual mode were a collapse of stereotypes in various fields, spread of lookism in a visual image period, extension of commercialism, and expansion of men's character casual trend. Metrosexual was defined as an urban male with a strong aesthetic sense who spends a great deal of time and money on his appearance and lifestyle. His fashion style was characterized by slim and flowing silhouette, feminine and luxurious materials such as transparent chiffon, silk and cotton with a light and soft touch, and a knitted wear with a flowing line, a wide variety of vivid and pastel colors, floral and geometric patterns, and the decorative details like lace, beads, embroidery, and fur. From spread of this mode, two cultural and social implications were extracted. Firstly, the current young generation's aesthetic standards for the perfect man changed from macho man to considerate man who had a good appearance and this suggested that a conventional sex role broke down. Secondly, men began to explore for their own identity escaping from traditionally standardized masculinity that they had been forced to follow.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.195-219
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• 2011

The purpose of the study is to analyze Hollywood actresses' makeup in formative characteristics and see the transition of the change for the usage as the fundamental materials to develop the future makeup field academy with the focus focused from 1920s to 2000s when the cosmetic industry began in earnest. The content of the study is to see the transition of the change by analyzing makeup of each era in formative aspect after seeing the transition of the makeup change in the social background by classifying by 10 years from 1920s to 2000s with related literature as the center in the theoretical background. The method of the study is to analyze makeup in formative aspect with total 180 pieces of pictures selected by two experts among their photos by selecting four actresses by each era and analyze Hollywood actresses' advertisement pictures which can be called as beauty icons at that time. Analysis frame to analyze the formativeness established new classification frame based on theories of Marian L. Davis, Marilyn Revell Delong, and Kang to analyze line, shape, texture, and decoration, and researcher's analysis frame was prepared based Munsell's color circle, tone analysis of P.C.C.S color system, and Kang's makeup color name to analyze colors. The result of the study is like below. Generally 20s and 30s highlighted line of eyebrows, 40s naturalness, 50s and 60s highlighted eye makeup, and from 70s makeup was focused on health, in 80s colorful makeup was boom, and 90s and 2000s has shown characteristics focused on texture of face.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.100-114
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• 2009

In Honam province, the cultural prototype are largely unknown to the people, also the research on this subject are scarce, the artistic excellence, somewhat under evaluated, both in our country and internationally. It is imperative that we develop the modern design using this prototype. thereby apply it to many areas of cultural products. We should extend the dimension not only to the local festival but also to the mass production resulting in the commercial gains. The Unjusa Buddha festival for promoting the public relation would be greatly benefited by using the concept of the temple, the local prototype, by which we expect to create a ingenious textile design pattern, coinciding with the main purpose of this study. The ancient material around Unjusa come to be the subject of our textile design by way of selecting the most remarkable ones of heritage among the materials of Unjusa. In the long run, the harmonious contrast of both traditional and modern image were sought in this study. Designed patterns were edited using Adobe Photoshop CS3, a multi-purpose graphic program and were simulated in the towel for visual presentation. The design is of two kinds, the one is of the free style using combinations of reclining Buddha, stone Buddha, stone pagoda, and geometric patterns freely not to be standardized. The other one is mixing of lotus pattern, reclining Buddha, and geometric patterns. These designs were applied delicately on the towel, necktie and handkerchief, and the various colors were suggested by the 6 color ways. The brilliance of our traditional cultural property should be noted by these designs and I hope that this study would be a help to develop our cultural prototype and make a product of using the outstanding heritage.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.197-210
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to Investigate men's clothing in regard to (1) the effect of wearer's age and clothing: rues on impression formation, and (2) the effect of perceiver's age on impressions formed by the wearer's age and the fuction of clothing cues. The experimental design of this study was between-subjects 24_full factorial design by 4 independent variables. The subjects consisted of 192 subjects in each of two male perceiver groups according to age(20s and 50s). The experimental moterials developed for the study were a set of stimuli al)d a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 16 color photographs made by identical manipulations of 4 independent variables consisting of 2 levels each. Each one of the sixteen sub-samples included 12 subjects from 2 perceiver groups. The independent variables provided by the photographs were (1) wearer's age (20s and 50s), (2) suit color (navy blue and beige),' (3) suit style (single breasted and double breasted), and (4) necktie color (analogous and complementary colors) . The 7-point semantic differential response scale which was designed to measure the impression of the stimuli was composed of 30 bipolar adjectives. The responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis and ANOVA. The results were as follows:1) Wearer's age, suit color, suit style, and necktie color had significant effects on impression of the 3 factors (appearance·potency, individuality activity, and evaluation) partiafly. However, the suit style was the most dominent clothing cue : the single breasted suit conveyed positive impression of individuality' activity to both of the wearer's age groups than double breasted suit did on both of the perceiver's age groups. 2) Perceiver's age partially influenced impressions formed by the age and the clothing cues of men clothed in suits : the young perceiver's group was less affected by them than middle aged group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.8
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• pp.1297-1309
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of shirt color, tie color, tone, perceiver' gender on impression formation by applying tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie: coloration of two colors. This experiment was designed to utilize the $2{\times}6{\times}4{\times}2$ factorial designs. and they are shirt color(red, blue), tie color(red, yellow red, yellow, green, blue, purple), tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver' gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 48 upper body photographs which were color outputs by CAD system(4D-box program). The subjects of this research were 288 male and 288 female college students. There were established impression dimension from factor analysis 27 bi-polar adjectives and investigated the effect of interaction between each variable affected impression formations. The items of the adjectives are classified into 4 Impression dimensions: activity, potency, attractiveness, and tenderness. Shirt color, tie color, tone, and perceiver' gender influenced on impression formation. Specially, tie color and tone influenced on the 4 impression dimension greatly by interaction as well as independently. As a result tie is very important clue of impression formation in tone-in-tone coloration of shirt and necktie. Even though tie occupies only a small area in men's clothes it has great effect since it is close to the face.

• KOREAN JOURNAL OF CROP SCIENCE
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.187-195
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• 2008

Polyphenol oxidase (PPO) is implicated in discoloration of white salted noodles and other wheat based foods. PPO activity was evaluated to determine the effect on discoloration of noodle dough sheets prepared from 25 Korean wheat flours during storage and to screen experimental lines with low PPO activity in 52 Korean wheats. PPO activity was assayed with whole-seed and performed with L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) as substrates. Absorbance by L-DOPA assay of 25 Korean wheats was from 0.285 to 1.368 at 475 nm. PPO activity was significantly related with grain characteristics, including 1000-kernel weight and grain colors. In flour characteristics, PPO activity positively correlated with ash and protein content (r = 0.658, P < 0.001 and r = 0.424, P < 0.05, respectively) and negatively correlated with $L^*$ value of flour (r = 0.412, P < 0.05). In the changes of color of noodle dough sheet, $L^*$ and $b^*$ values consistently decreased and $a^*$ value increased during storage. PPO activity negatively correlated with $L^*$ value of noodle dough sheet during storage (r = 0.566, P < 0.01 at 2 hr, r = 0.547, P < 0.01 at 24 hr, and r = 0.509, P < 0.01 at 48 hr). But, no significant relationship was found in between PPO activity, $a^*$ and $b^*$ values during storage. The 52 Korean wheat lines examined in this study were divided into 3 different groups, low (< 0.500), medium (0.501-0.999) and high level (> 1.000), on the basis of the level of PPO activity. Twenty two Korean wheat lines showed low level of PPO activity and Suwon 252, 277 and 280 showed lower PPO activity (< 0.200) than others.