• Title/Summary/Keyword: Twill

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The Characteristics of Textiles excavated in Soochonri Tombs of $5^{th}$ Century Baekjae Period (백제 5세기 수촌리 고분군 직물의 특성)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee;Jeong, Bok-Nam
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.10
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    • pp.164-172
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    • 2008
  • Soochonri tombs are assumed to be of the Baekje Kingdom in the early 5th century. We have examined 12 artifacts and 24 textiles in the four tombs. Along with hemp textiles, silk and embroidery threads were found In the Soochonri tombs. Within the hemp textiles both hemp and ramie were made using s-twist threads and the thread count distribution is calculated to be $8.5{\sim}15.5/cm^2$. Taffeta, one of the silk, can be categorized in to four types. First, the plain woven silk was made with warp and weft of the same thickness. The rates of thread count are also similar. Secondly the warp and weft are of the same thickness but has more spaces between threads. Third, the type of warp and weft is different in thickness, the thicker thread woven in the same direction. Lastly, a textile was woven with spaces the same as the width of the reed mark in every two warps. There were five compound weave found. Among them one was made with non-twisted thread for warp and s-twist thread for weft. One plain braiding with apparent spaces between threads were found. All three of the twining were made with wefts thicker than warps, barely showing the warps as a result. Textiles of the Soochonri tombs are the oldest of the Baekje Kingdom studied by far and therefore important artifacts of the Baekje Kingdom. These textiles are similar to those found in the King Muryeong's Tomb and tombs of Gaya and Shilla.

A Study on Fabrics and Pattern of the Excavated Costume During $16{\cdot}17th$ Century in Joseon Period (조선시대 $16{\cdot}17$세기 출토복식의 직물유형 및 문양에 관한 연구)

  • Yim Hyun-Joo;Cho Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.8
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    • pp.113-128
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    • 2004
  • This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

A Study on Costume in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae (朴通事 諺解의 服食硏究)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.493-511
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    • 2000
  • The objective of this study was to trace and to examine costume terminologies recorded in Pak Tong Sa Eun Hae. Names of costumes and costume related terms were collected from P마 Tong Sa Eun Hae. Books and various references from China and Korea were used for this study. Costume terms were examined from the Chinese and Korean. Classifications of costume terminologies from the data were made for the analysis : man and woman's costume, accessories, names of fabrics, colors, and decorative motifs used, professional costume, special occasion dresses and so on. Conclusions and summary of results and findings can be summerized as follows : It revealed that manes of man's costume and other costume related words were a large in number compared with those of woman. Only one name of woman's costume appeared in the text : It was kind of long vests. However, names of accessories such as a hat, a hat decorated with jewels and phoenix design, a hair pin, earings, bracelets, finger rings, a soft belt were shown in the text. While many costume names of man included in the text were of garments such as a kind of long vest, a short vest, an outer robe, a kind of long coat with pleated skirt, leg coverings, outer jacket and so on. Also names of undergarments such as an under skirt, a belly covering, and drawers were found in the text. Fabric names were mostly silks such as brocade, twill, sarcenet, damasks and plain silks. Blue was the most widely appeared fabric color in the text and red was the second. Design motifs of fabric design were of dragon, flowers, eight precious things, clouds which were characteristic design motifs of the Chinese. It was found that some of the Chinese costume terminologies were translated into the Korean although many Chinese costume terms were used as the original Chinese.

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The Experimental Analysis of the PVC Foam Cored CFRP Sandwich Composite for the Mixed Mode Delamination Characteristics (복합모드 층간분리특성에 대한 PVC폼 코아 탄소섬유샌드위치 복합재의 실험적 해석)

  • Kwak, Jung Hoon;Yun, Yu Seong;Kwon, Oh Heon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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    • v.33 no.2
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    • pp.8-13
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    • 2018
  • The light weight composite materials have been replacing in high performance structures. The object of this study is to examine the effects of the initial crack location about a delamination in a PVC foam cored sandwich composite that is used for the strength improvement of structures. The initial crack location and fiber laminates thickness were changed with several types. The MMB specimen was used for evaluating the fracture toughness and crack behaviors. The material used in the experiment is a commercial twill carbon prepreg in CFRP material and Airex in PVC foam core. Sandwich laminate composites are composed by PVC foam core layer between CFRP face sheets. The face sheets were fabricated as 2 types of 5 and 8 plies. The initial cracks were located in a PVC form core and the interface of upper CFRP sheet. From the results, the crack initiation was affected with the location of the initial crack inserted in the PVC foam core. Among them, the initial crack at 1/3 of the upper part of the PVC foam core was the most rapid progression. And the critical energy release rate was $0.40kJ/m^2$, which is the lowest value when the initial crack was inserted into the interface between a PVC foam core and CFRP laminated with 5 plies. Meanwhile, the highest value of $1.27kJ/m^2$ was obtained when the initial crack was located at the center line in case of the 8 plies.

A Study of the Fabrics Used for the Official Hats in Baekje Dynasty (백제 관모에 사용된 직물 연구)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.3
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    • pp.82-95
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    • 2009
  • The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

The Characteristics of Textiles excavated in Shilla Tombs($5{\sim}6th$ Century) (신라 $5{\sim}6$세기 임당고분군 직물의 특성)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.1
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    • pp.9-16
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    • 2008
  • Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to $5{\sim}6C$ Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was $97.4{\times}33.4/cm$ with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.

A Study on Extraction Condition of Co-PET from PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type Microfiber Fabric (PET/Co-PET해도사 직물의 Co-PET추출 조건에 관한 연구)

  • 박명수;윤종호;조대현
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.120-127
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    • 2001
  • In order to make a microfiber fabric with PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type microfiber, the optimum condition of extraction and elimination of Co-PET from the mocrofiber was examined. At the same time, the physical property change of the fabric with respect to the change of the relative amount of the Co-PET in the microfiber was also examined to provide a directly applicable data set to the industry. The sample fabric used was warp 75/36(DTY) and weft 0.05d(PET/Co-PET, Sea Island Type Microfiber) twill fabric of 36 separated yarns+40/24(high shrinking yarn) with 130/48 ITY. The data set was made at various NaOH concentrations and steam temperatures with time as a main variable. The physical properties examined were the tensile properties. The results obtained were the tensile. The results obtained were 1. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%)from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes more than 5 min. in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions but it takes only 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 12$0^{\circ}C$. 2. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%) from the microfiber with wet curing, ti takes 3~5min. in 12 and 14% of NaOH solution and it takes less than 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at $130^\circ{C}$. 3. The increasing ratio of WT increased with increasing NaOH concentrations and the equilibrium point reached was 3 min. at $120^\circ{C}$. 4. The WT increasing ratio was greater in 14 and 18% NaOH solutions than in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions at $130^\circ{C}$5. The RT ratio changes at $120^\circ{C}$ in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions were indifferent from that at $130^\circ{C}$ in 12% of NaOH solution. However, the RT was apparently decreased with increasing NaOH concentration.

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A Study on Extraction Condition of Co-PET from PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type Microfiber Fabric (PET/Co-PET 해도사 직물의 Co-PET 추출 조건에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Myeong Su;Yun, Jong Ho;Jo, Dae Hyeon
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.34-34
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    • 2001
  • In order to make a microfiber fabric with PET/Co-PET Sea-Island Type microfiber, the optimum condition of extraction and elimination of Co-PET from the microfiber was examined. At the same time, the physical property change of the fabric with respect to the change of the relative amount of the Co-PET in the microfiber was also examined to provide a directly applicable data set to the industry. The sample fabric used was warp 75/36(DTY) and weft 0.05d(PET/Co-PET, Sea Island Type Microfiber) twill fabric of 36 separated yarns+40/24(high shrinking yarn) with 130/48 ITY. The data set was made at various NaOH concentrations and steam temperatures with time as a main variable. The physical properties examined were the tensile properties. The results obtained were the tensile properties. The results obtained were 1. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%)from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes more than 5 min. in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions but it takes only 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 120℃. 2. For a proper extraction of Co-PET (13.5%) from the microfiber with wet curing, it takes 3∼5 min. in 12 and 14% of NaOH solution and it takes less than 3 min. in 18% of NaOH solution at 130℃. 3. The increasing ratio of WT increased with increasing NaOH concentrations and the equilibrium point reached was 3 min. at 120℃. 4. The WT increasing ratio was greater in 14 and 18% NaOH solutions than in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions at 130℃. 5. The RT ratio changes at 120℃ in 8 and 12% of NaOH solutions were indifferent from that at 130℃ in 12% of NaOH solution. However, the RT was apparently decreased with increasing NaOH concentration.

Experimental Testing of Curved Aluminum Honeycomb/CFRP Sandwich Panels (곡면형상의 알루미늄 하니콤/CFRP 샌드위치 패널에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • Roy, Rene;Park, Yong-Bin;Kweon, Jin-Hwe;Choi, Jin-Ho
    • Composites Research
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.85-90
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    • 2013
  • This paper presents the fabrication and 3-point flexion testing of carbon fiber reinforced polymer (CFRP) composite face/aluminum honeycomb core sandwich panels. Specimen sandwich panels were fabricated with three honeycomb types (3.18 mm, 4.76 mm, and 6.35 mm cell size) and three panel radii (flat, r = 1.6 m, r = 1.3 m). The curved sandwiches were fabricated normally with the core in the W-direction. The tensile mechanical properties of the CFRP $2{\times}2$ twill fabric face laminate were evaluated (modulus, strength, Poisson's ratio). The measured values are comparable to other CFRP fabric laminates. The flat sandwich 3-point flexion test core shear strength results were 11-30% lower than the manufacturer published data; the test set-up used may be the cause. With a limited sample size, the 1.3 meter panel curvature appeared to cause a 0.8-3.8% reduction in ultimate core shear strength compared to a flat panel.

Structural Analysis of Composite Partition Panel according to Weaving Methods (직조 방법에 따른 복합재 파티션 패널의 구조 해석)

  • Kang, Ji Heon;Kim, Kun Woo;Jang, Jin Seok;Lee, Jae Jin;Mun, Ji Hun;Kang, Da Kyung;Ahn, Min Su;Lee, Jae Wook
    • Composites Research
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    • v.33 no.3
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    • pp.140-146
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    • 2020
  • The purpose of this paper is to examine the possibility of weight reduction by changing the partition panel of vehicle from an existing aluminum material to carbon fiber reinforced plastics. Three weaving methods (plain, twill and satin) were used in the manufacture of composite materials, and they were produced and tested to derive their material properties. The analysis model of composite partition panel for torsional conditions was developed and the structural stability and system stiffness were evaluated according to Tsai-Hill failure criteria. With design variables for fiber orientation angles and stacking sequence, evolutional optimal algorithm was performed and as the results, the optimal composite partition panel was designed. In addition, the structural analysis results for strength and specific stiffness were compared with aluminum partition panels and composite partition panels to verify the possibility of weight reduction.