• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.1-8
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• 2006

This study was aimed at reviewing kinds and characteristics of children's costumes in consideration of their social and cultural backgrounds and particularly, those of children's costumes during the period of Enlightenment following Chosun dynasty and thereafter. Namely, this study focused on children's costume history in view of not adults' costume miniatures but their own concept. It is deemed very significant to review the history of our traditional costumes and thereby, express their decorative features with our contemporary sense. It is results can be summed up as follows; Strictly speaking, the period of Enlightenment can be defined as the one from Gwangwhado treaty in 1876 through annexation of Korea by Japan in 1910, but it may well extend until our emancipation from Japan in 1945. By 1890's, children's costumes remained almost traditional, but since then, the Chimas as well as Jeogori and breast tie began to be narrower. Particularly, Children's Jeogori began to be narrower with their breast tie disappearing gradually. By 1910's, children's costumes had changed much, with the breast tie replaced by the buttons and the longer Jeogoris.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1453-1464
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• 2001

The first objective of this study was to investigate the current status of the display of traditional costumes by observing museums in Seoul ; the National Folk Museum and the Royal Museum. The second objective was to investigate the satisfaction and need of their visitors by a survey method. To collect the data, several observations were made by the author, interviews were conducted to the students whose major is related to clothing and a survey using questionaires was conducted to the consumers who visited the museum in the fall of 2000. To analyze the data, both qualitative and quantitative methods were utilized. The major results were as follows; Two museums were differentiated in the contents of display, but some of costumes displayed were overlapped. In both museums, there were few visual explanations. The visitors were highly interested in the costume display in the museum. The most dissatisfactory area was the way and contents of costume explanation. The preferred contents, method, explanation and environment of the display of traditional costumes were partially different according to visitors’, characteristics. The reforming of the display of costumes reflecting the results will increase the visitors’satisfaction and therefore strengthen the competitiveness of the museums.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.9-17
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• 2001

The purposes of the study are to find out the effect of clothing colors on perception of stimulus ages, occupations and images using stereotyping and color vision theories. The research method is a qualitative study and materials developed for the study are a set of stimuli and open-ended responses. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students in Taejoen city, Chungbuk province. The data is analyze using content analysis, supplementary frequency and χ²analysis. The results are as follows : 1) The colors in Korean traditional costumes affected on the wearer's age perception : The red ensemble give the wearer the youngest look while the gray give the oldest look. 2) Mono-color ensemble wearers tend to give older look than bi-color ensemble wearers. 3) The chima colors and the jogori colors have similar impact on the wearer's age perception. 4) On image perception the jogori colors have more impact than the chima colors. 5) The colors in Korean traditional costumes are the clues to estimate the wearer's occupation.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.115-130
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• 2009

A kind of Korean traditional jacket, Baeja, has been a Korean traditional costume equipped with practicality and formative aesthetics from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. Accordingly, the researcher of this study highly valued a modern sense of Baeja with various types of design and forms and attempted to make efforts to apply it into modern life. This study provided a new direction in the modernization work of traditional costumes by creating fashion images newly interpreted corresponding to a modern sense and trend through the application of formative characteristics and noticeable elements via the coordination of traditional Baeja and modern costumes. On the one hand, it would be meaningful in terms of contributing to the activation of traditional Hanbok by providing people with ample opportunities to wear it in modern daily lives variously. On the other hand, the actual purpose of this study was to perform a modernization work for traditional costumes by attempting to conduct a crossover that could let people move into other areas freely, that is, a creative and innovative research associating the area of costume history and that of coordination.

• 복식
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• 제67권4호
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• pp.38-57
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• 2017

Traditional costume in Indonesia represents identity of a person and it displays the origin and the status of the person. Where culture and religion are fused, the traditional costume serves one of the most functions in rituals in Bali. This research aims to analyze the characteristics of Balinese costumes by focusing on the Legong dance costume. Quantitative research was performed using 332 images of Indonesian costumes and 210 images of Balinese ceremonial costumes. Qualitative research was performed by doing field research in Puri Saba, Gianyar and SMKN 3 SUKAWATI(Traditional Art Middle School). The paper illustrates the influence and structure of Indonesian traditional costume. As the result, focusing on the upper wear costume showed that the ancient era costumes were influenced by animism. They consist of tube(kemben), shawl(syal), corset, dress(terusan), body painting and tattoo, jewelry(perhiasan), and cross. The Modern era, which was shaped by religion, consists of baju kurung(tunic) and kebaya(kaftan). The Balinese costume consists of the costume of participants and the costume of performers. Bali dancing is grouped into Wali dance(sacred), Bebali dance(theatrical), and Balih-balihan dance(entertainment). The Legong dance is included in the Balih-balihan dance, and its costume developed from 1920 until present. The characteristics of Legong dance costumes are 'Theatrical,' 'Angelic,' 'Charming,' and 'Decorative.' In conclusion, the balance of religion, culture, and art gives a unique trait in Bali. The Balinese social system, which is based on Hinduism, has influenced art and its function. This relationship creates a strong structure to the Balinese ceremonial costume, especially the Legong dance costume.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.501-517
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• 2011

This study investigates the concept of the body in Korean traditional costume by comparing the traditional costumes of the west and those of Korea while focusing on the relationship between the body and dress. In order to make a comparison of the traditional perspectives on the body in western and Korean costumes, this study examines the literature of history, art, medicine, philosophy as well as dress from the mid-fourteenth century to the nineteenth century pertaining to the west and those of the Joseon Dynasty Korea. Western dress assumes apparent formal structures and pursues overall harmony via the completeness of its entities, while traditional Korean dress subordinates the parts to the whole, emphasizing the organic total. Whereas the proportion of bodily structure is stressed in western traditional costume, in Korean costume the body is perceived as a whole. By revealing the body through the three dimensionalities of dress, the focus on the erogenous body parts is shifting in conventional western dress according to changes in aesthetic consciousness, which reflects the western ideas of objectiveness and self-centeredness. In traditional Korean dress, in the space between the body and dress, the emphasis is on planarization of the dress, which assumes the oriental relationship-centeredness concept.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.253-262
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• 2003

The purposes of the study were (1) to analysis Korean traditional wedding costumes through families's wedding photographs from 1940 to 2000, and (2) to categorize bride and groom's costumes according to the wedding time by means of a time series analysis. (3) to find out functional relationship among changes in garment types, garment details, embellishments and colors. The study was a documentary research and data were collected from 390 family wedding photographs by a convenient sampling. The data were analyzed by qualitative and quantitative method and the statistic used were frequency, content analysis, and cross-tab analysis. The results were as follows; First, the garments of wedding couples were categorized into 5 period according to garment's characteristics. 1. The period between 1940～1959 : Korean traditional wedding costumes and western style wedding costumes were existed together in Korean wedding culture. 2. The period between 1960～early 1970's western wedding costumes were dominated. 3. The period of late 1970's : wedding couple's costumes became more formal and decorative. 4. The period of 1980's : introducing see-through materials for brides and tuxedo suit for grooms. 5. The period of 1990's : extravagance in shapes and exposure. Second, there were significant relationships among brides's dress types and neckline, glove length, embellishments and transparency of materials and among groom's garment types and necktie types, types and color of shirts, vests. Third, the time series analysis of bride and groom's outfit produced 5 schematic expressions of wedding outfits according to the period.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• 복식
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• 제55권7호
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• pp.131-141
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shapes and transformation of costumes of Ching's and Mongolian. Mongolian traditional costumes are trousers and jacket, with Deel(袍) and Terlig(帖裡) pleated in the waistline, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike. It was designed for adapting to horse riding activities and cold steppe climate. Similarity between Ching's and Mongolian nomadic costumes was used as a means of unity by Ching. Transformation of Mongolian nomadic costumes are further divided into three kinds; Ching's or Russian's details applied to Mongolian nomadic costumes(Taekeum(大襟), Majesu(馬蹄袖), white choker), Ching's court costume imported as it is for the political purpose(Kijang(기장)), resistance against foreign countries and the spirit of nomadic people and independence reflected in Mongol costumes('Teregur ushi', 'Correct bosom'). Specially, Nomadic symbols constitute Mongolian spiritual world and clothing habits, especially evident in ladies' dresses.