• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.108-127
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the principles of clothing design and the way of design approach in Lamanova. She caused a revolution in the art of dress and created the foundation for costume design theory. She Addressed Art in everyday life to self-taught dressmakers. The distinguishing feature of the design is simplicity and functionality. In an article "The Russian Style", Lamanova raised the question of the new Soviet costume and traditional costume. In "On Contemporary Costume" she classified the new forms of clothes into everyday and holiday attire, showed the principles of costume, and analyzed in detail the necessity of constructing a costume to suit the individual figure. In "On the Rationality of Costume", she found a basis theory for clothing design which is for whom, from what, and for what purpose. Lamanova's theory was made public in full in 1928 and was presented at the exhibition of Handmade Textiles and Embroidery in Women's Contemporary Costume. The main contents are the costume's purpose, it's material, the figure of its wearer, and its form. She argued that the new costume could be in line with the new life and her theory could be the creed of clothing designers. The principles of Lamanova's theory can still be applied today, not only in Russian traditional and contemporary costume, but in contemporary world fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.80-87
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop cultural products containing Korean beauty with modern sense by applying quilting with dyed threat among Korean traditional quilting works. Quilting with dyed thread using various colored thread expresses curve, straight and oblique lines harmoniously, is mainly used to make household goods such as a pouch, a spectacle case and a quilting pocket and a circular pattern, a cross pattern and a geometric pattern are shown in this kind of quilting. As for sewing method, half backstitch and full backstitch are used, and products made by this method are pouches stuffing pads in cotton or silk and quilting it finely to make patterns with various colored threads of stuffing cotton between linings and spectacle cases, a packet of needles and case of spoon and chopsticks which give various feelings according to arrangement of colors. Design of cultural products by applying the beauty of curves of hanbok, sleave-seam of jeogori, trimming line of dangeui. We expect that various cultural products with Korean traditional beauty and modern convenience will be developed continually by introducing the artistic strength of quilting with dyed thread to practical life.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.891-909
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.139-155
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• 2017

This paper identified the values and awareness of Koreans in 20s regarding Hanbok, the traditional clothing of Korea, and proposed an approach to promote the traditional clothing culture. The subject of the survey were male and female Koreans in their 20s who wear modern street clothes in places people frequently visit including in the metropolitan area and Chungcheong-do as well as those who wear Hanbok in Seoul and Jeonju, Jeollabuk-do. In accordance with the analysis of the survey, Koreans in their 20s rented Hanok rather than buying it. The respondents wore Hanbok for events, festivals or national holidays or while travelling. Elements to improve in Hanbok rental services were designs, materials, washing and stains. The decision factors for renting Hanbok were 'personal tendency' and 'advice from an expert.' While Koreans in their 20s had a positive awareness of Hanbok, they thought it was difficult to buy, rent and put on Hanbok and that it was not comfortable to wear. There was not sufficient opportunity and means to wear Hanbok due to insufficient accessories or shoes to match. On the basis of the analysis of the survey results, the following approach was proposed for the development of the traditional clothing culture. First of all, develop traditional clothing designers who can satisfy the personalities of Koreans in their 20s. It is necessary to develop experience-focused and participatory programs that provide systematic education regarding traditional clothing to pass down this tradition. In addition, it is necessary to create a social and cultural atmosphere that enables the Koreans in their 20s to easily wear Hanbok by popularizing Hanbok.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.1053-1062
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• 2007

This study purposed to restructure representative traditional patterns formatively, manufacture actual cultural products with traditional dyeing technique using persimmon, and commercialize the results of the research. Traditionally in Korea, the dying of natural fiber such as cotton, flax and silk with persimmon was called Galmul dyeing, and clothes made through Galmul dyeing were called Galot. Galot was very useful because it is strong, does not pick up dirt easily, dries easily, and is cool in summer. In addition, cloth dyed with persimmon becomes stiff, so it does not need to be starched or ironed after washing. Moreover, it does not transmit heat under direct rays and is highly air-permeable, so it is cool and useful for standing the heat. In this study, we used traditional persimmon dyeing technique, printing traditional patterns fit for contemporary people's aesthetic sense not through dip-dying but through printing. When persimmon dyeing is used in expressing patterns, it produces not only visual effect but also embossing effect due to the characteristic of persimmon that makes printed patterns stiff, so we can obtain unique texture distinguished from other printing methods. We chose seven motive patterns, which were lotus pattern symbolizing eternal life, peony pattern symbolizing wealth and rank and prosperity, character Su(壽) pattern widely used as a symbol of health, bird and cloud pattern in the Goryeo Dynasty, Sahapyeoeuisohwa(四合如意小花) pattern printed on brocade in the Goryeo Dynasty, lattice pattern, cloth pattern on wall paintings from the Period of the Three Kingdoms. From each pattern chosen as a motive was extracted unit patterns and the original pattern was restored using Adobe Illustrator. Restored patterns were restructured to be applied to cultural products fit for contemporary formative sense. Fabrics used in dyeing were cotton, linen, ramie, silk, and polyester. Although the same persimmon dyeing was applied, we produced different feelings of patterns using various fabrics and in some cases gold and silver powder was added for the effect of gloss in addition to the embossing of patterns. Using printed fabrics we manufactured tea pads, place mats, cushions, wrapping cloth for gifts, wallet, lampshades.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2021

Jewelry Object to adorn a body with has been a very important culture since the primitive age when history of human beings started. Ornaments for social status or wealth's symbolic icon otherwise for private embellishment have been developed with various properties such as decorative, monetary, scarce, historic ones. However, since the latter 20th century, when intellecture concept was more valuable than the tradition laying emphasis on preciousness, with counting of artistic activities and aesthetic values, they have had expressionistic tendency centered on artists. In this manner, modern ornaments have been developed as an artistic genre deviating from traditional way in which material or technology was emphasized. While this expressionistic tendency emphasized artistic value, galleries only for ornaments have been started since 1960s and especially from this period, a lot of experimental and revolutionary ornaments works deviating from traditional way have been exhibited. The appearance of galleries specialized in ornaments as described above had a great influence on the ornaments' development to an artistic genre. This study is the one in respect of two exhibition types through the combination of human body and clothes in displaying ornaments. The first one represents active displaying way for the communication with audience by introducing fashion show to galleries deviating from general exhibition way. The second one plans to run a project collaborating fashion brand for the communication between ornaments and clothes and represents displaying way in the shop of fashion brand for active exhibition publicity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.31-48
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• 2013

It goes without saying that Yi Mae-Bang, as the sole owner of two of the intangible cultural assets including No. 27 Seungmu in 1987 and No. 97 Salpuri Chum, is a top-notch Korean traditional dancer. Moreover, in regards to traditional clothing, he is also known as the only traditional dancer who directly performs on stage as well as analyzes traditional clothing in order to apply them into his own dance performances by designing and producing them to meet his artistic spirit. In order to examine how Yi Mae-Bang's unique and creative stage clothing was developed, and what kind of process it went through to possess its unique style, which draws the attentions of people with its harmony of beauty and dance, this research first examined the change of the composition through the yearly picture data. Before 1984, the composition of the Salpuri Chum clothes changed by putting on 'Jeogori' on the 'Mudong-Bok' without the 'Kweia' (sleeveless), and in 1999 'Mudong-Bok' became widened with the decoration of embroidered hem making it more attractively colorful. after 2000 it became more splendidly adorned by embroidering hem on widened Mudong-Bok and tucking 'Kweja' in the layers which created silhouette like a dress that is seemingly wider and luxuriant than a skirt. One of notable features of Yi Mae-Bang's Salpuri is that its cloth and cuff ribbons are lightly colored in different colors enclosing the tip part. As for the ribbons, it was also changed as time went by from direct-cutting of the cloth just like the A-line of Mudong-Bok to drawing a diagonal line less than 5cm above the ribbon and 8cm below the ribbon so that it takes the form of getting widened as it gets to the lower part, and its length was also elongated in proportion to that of the bottom of Mudong-Bok.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2004

Korean traditional paper is more than paper itself to the Korean people because of its excellence, compared to western paper, in keeping records, flexibility, strength. air permeability. and blocking ultraviolet rays. It has been used for various purposes such as book-making. covering for walls. windows or floors. making clothes and living appliances. and so on. Notwithstanding these merits. mass-produced paper has been substituted for Korean paper. Recently, however, there is a growing tendency to re-evaluate Korean paper because of its physiochemical properties. traditional beauty. eco-friendliness. and applicability to crafts. Korean paper deserves widely received re-evaluation as teaching materials for the education of ecology. creativity. and traditional arts. The purpose of this study was to find out a way of using Korean paper as sewing materials in Practical Arts classes for the elementary school. Previous researches on what properties Korean paper has and how many kinds of crafts have been made of Korean paper were reviewed. Concrete methods of utilizing Korean paper as sewing materials. especially for the finishing skills of sewing. were also proposed.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.121-135
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• 2024

By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13^th or 14^th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10^th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.