• Title/Summary/Keyword: Traditional Women's Painting

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A Comparative Study on the Decorative Pattern for the Traditional Costume in South and North Korea - Focus on Women Dress Since in the Middle 1990s - (남북한 전통의상에 사용된 장식문양에 관한 비교 연구 - 1990년대 중반이후 여성 한복을 중심으로 -)

  • Chung, Hye-Gyung
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.627-633
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    • 2006
  • This study examined the kinds, expression, techniques and arrangement of patterns for the traditional women's costume from 1995 to 2002 in North Korea. And the results were compared with South Korean. Conclusions are as follows : In the kinds of patterns the natural plant patterns were much more frequently used in North Korea. These tendency was same to South Korea. And the geometric patterns were more frequently used in South Korea. According to frequency in the expression of patterns, it was the realistic, geometric, stylized shape in North Korea. To the contrary it was the stylized, geometric, realistic shape in South Korea. In terms of decorative techniques, not only the traditional embroidery, gold leaf, multicolored stripes, but also modern collages, painting, beads, applique, flounce, ruffle were used in North Korea. Modern techniques were found comparatively a lot in North Korea, traditional techniques were found comparatively a lot in South Korea. In terms of arrangement of patterns, the modern arrangement was much more frequently used. And localized type of modern arrangement was found comparatively a lot in South and North Korea. Therefore traditional beauty was generally expressed by natural patterns, realistic shape and modern beauty was generally expressed by modern techniques and arrangement of patterns in North Korea.

A Study on Avant-Garde Fine Art during the period of Japanese Colonial Rule of Korea, centering on 'Munjang' (a literary magazine) (일제강점기 '전위미술론'의 전통관 연구 - '문장(文章)' 그룹을 중심으로)

  • Park, Ca-Rey
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.4
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    • pp.57-76
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    • 2006
  • From the late 1920s to the 1930s, Korea's fine art community focused on traditional viewpoints as their main topic. The traditional viewpoints were discussed mainly by Korean students studying in Japan, especially oil painters. Such discussions on tradition can be divided into two separate halves, namely the pre- and post-Sino-Japanese War (1937) periods. Before the war, the modernists among Korea's fine art community tried to gain a fuller understanding of contemporary Western modern art, namely, expressionism, futurism, surrealism, and so forth, on the basis of Orientalism, and borrow from these schools' in order to create their own works. Furthermore, proponents of Joseon's avant-garde fine arts and artists of the pro-fine art school triggered debate on the traditional viewpoints. After the Sino-Japanese War, these artists continued to embrace Western modern art on the basis of Orientalism. However, since Western modern fine art was regressing into Oriental fine art during this period, Korean artists did not need to research Western modern fine art, but sought to study Joseon's classics and create Joseon's own avant- garde fine art in a movement led by the Munjang group. This research reviews the traditional view espoused by the Munjang group, which represented the avant-garde fine art movement of the post-war period. Advocating Joseon's own current of avant-garde fine art through the Munjang literary magazine, Gil Jin - seop, Kim Yong-jun and others accepted the Japanese fine art community's methodology for the restoration of classicism, but refused Orientalism as an ideology, and attempted to renew their perception of Joseon tradition. The advocation of the restoration of classicism by Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun appears to be similar to that of the Yasuda Yojuro-style restoration of classicism. However, Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun did not seek their sources of classicism from the Three-Kingdoms and Unified Silla periods, which Japan had promoted as a symbol of unity among the Joseon people; instead they sought classicism from the Joseon fine art which the Japanese had criticized as a hotbed of decadence. It was the Joseon period that the Munjang group chose as classicism when Japan was upholding Fascism as a contemporary extremism, and when Hangeul (Korean writing system) was banned from schools. The group highly evaluated literature written in the style of women, especially women's writings on the royal court, as represented by Hanjungnok (A Story of Sorrowful Days). In the area of fine art, the group renewed the evaluation of not only literary paintings, but also of the authentic landscape paintings refused by, and the values of the Chusa school criticized as decadent by, the colonial bureaucratic artists, there by making great progress in promoting the traditional viewpoint. Kim Yong-jun embraced a painting philosophy based on the painting techniques of Sasaeng (sketching), because he paid keen attention to the tradition of literary paintings, authentic landscape paintings and genre paintings. The literary painting theory of the 20th century, which was highly developed, could naturally shed both the colonial historical viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as heteronomical, and the traditional viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as decadent. As such, the Munjang group was able to embrace the Joseon period as the source of classicism amid the prevalent colonial historical viewpoint, presumably as it had accumulated first-hand experience in appreciating curios of paintings and calligraphic works, instead of taking a logical approach. Kim Yong-jun, in his fine art theory, defined artistic forms as the expression of mind, and noted that such an artistic mind could be attained by the appreciation of nature and life. This is because, for the Munjang group, the experience of appreciating nature and life begins with the appreciation of curios of paintings and calligraphic works. Furthermore, for the members of the Munjang group, who were purists who valued artistic style, the concept of individuality presumably was an engine that protected them from falling into the then totalitarian world view represented by the Nishita philosophy. Such a 20th century literary painting theory espoused by the Munjang group concurred with the contemporary traditional viewpoint spearheaded by Oh Se-chang in the 1910s. This theory had a great influence on South and North Korea's fine art theories and circles through the Fine Art College of Seoul National University and Pyongyang Fine Art School in the wake of Korea's liberation. In this sense, the significance of the theory should be re-evaluated.

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The Influence of the Traditional Hostess's Hair Shapes in the Last of Chosun Dynasty on the Modern Ladies Hair Shapes (조선후기 기녀의 머리형태가 일반여성의 머리형태에 미친 영향)

  • 임영자;조미영
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.3
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2004
  • As Confucian ideology dominated all over the society, the androcentric patriarchical society in the last of Chosun Dynasty produced the unequal power relationship between man and woman. It was traditional hostesses(kisaengs) who uniquely had an occupation among the women in this society. In modern society. they are reinterpreted as 'fashion leaders' or 'professional career women with expert knowledge and it caused a lot of the studies of them to be in a progression vigorously. Therefore this paper studied on the influence of the traditional hostesses(kisaengs) -who were educated and permitted in ther social activity formally in a Confuanism-governed society which forbided a woman to participate in a social activity and which did not gave ladies any formal education. The general hostess in the beginning time of the Chosun Dynasty imitated the hair shape of women in the yangban family which formed the highest class in the Chosun Dyansty and it reflected their aspiration for the highest social class. Howerver, coming into the last age of the chosun dynasty, a reverse phenomenon -that women in the yangban family imitated the general hostesses' hairstyle -occured due to the spread of a genre painting & the concubine system. The general hostesses were educated systematically and did social activity and influenced hair shapes as they were independent economically and their influence in the part of hairstyle appeared as great and high EONJIN MEURI and as one-sided EONJIN MEURI. Regarding-as the result of this study on the influence of the traditional hostess's hair shapes on the ladies hair shapes in the last of Chosun Dynasty -that the traditional hostesse of the last age of chosun dynasty played a role as a fashion leader of the ladies at the same age. the general hostesses in Chosun Dynasty should be revaluated... And the study of ladies which were hidden behind the scenes of Confuanism should be made much more.

A Study of Costume on Gustav Klimt's Paintings (구스타프 클림트 회화에 표현된 의상에 관한 연구)

  • Jang, Sung-Eun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.2 s.161
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    • pp.280-291
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to research characteristics of costume which is expressed in Gustav Klimt's Paintings. In the end of 19th century and the beginning of 20century Vienna, considered to be the fashion Mecca after Paris, the creativity of such artists allowed the 'Anti-Fashion Movement' to set itself up against the frippery of the costume of the time. The Secession Movement received the effect of Art Nouveau and Symbolism and Klimt led of this movement as a forerunner in Vienna. Many women appealed in Klimt's Painting with unique costume which contrast to traditional fashion that period time. The characteristics of costume in his paintings are as follows. Firstly, Klimt drew in the women's costume which made by designers of Vienna Workshops, at one of motive of his work of art. Costume got a opportunity became a new art field, because there was no conceptual thinking of a fashion designer at that time. Secondly, the costume of Klimt' paintings had both anti-fashion design and elements of fashion, so he gained considerable support from leaders of high fashion who was the upper classes. Thirdly, both anti-fashion and fashion appeared in his painting at first period. Costume which made at the Vienne Workshop appealed portraits of Klimt paints at the second period. Klimt interested in Naturalism, Japonism, Orientalism and Greece style and expressed his characteristic techniques at the last period. Lastly, Klimt liberated the woman from a physical and spirit restriction through his various artistic presentations.

Fashion design applying the features of the Peking Opera's costume (중국 경극(京劇) 배역의 의상 디자인 특성을 응용한 패션 디자인)

  • Wang, Meihong;Chen, Tiany;Lee, Younhee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2020
  • The Peking Opera is one of the most representative cultural aspects of China. It includes China's traditional specialties, such as stage performance, stage background, and costumes. The purpose of this study is to investigate the characters and the costume characteristics of the Peking Opera to present fashion design. This research is meaningful for spreading the Peking Opera to the world by applying China's traditional costumes to fashion design. Based on the cultural background of the Peking Opera and the analysis of the opera costume, four sets of women's clothes were made by using the traditional Chinese elements. The conclusions are as follows. First, traditional features such as patterns, colors, and styles from Peking Opera costumes were used in fashion design. The colors and patterns use Chinese traditional aesthetics to carry out contemporary fashion design and apply creative materials. Second, the neoprene used to create the items is a material suitable for the modern design of the traditional Peking Opera costumes. Neoprene has good elasticity and can be cut and sewn in a variety of ways. It can also satisfy the three-dimensional atmosphere and rich morphological changes found in Peking Opera costumes. In addition, a combination of thin chiffon and mesh materials is also suitable for the development of modern designs. Finally, in order to show the effects of traditional works, the patterns were finished by hand-painting. The hand-painted works were then scanned and printed on the material by the digital printing techniques. At the conclusion, the traditional features and feelings of the contemporary designs were presented.

A Study on the Late 19th Century Basic Costumes and Games based on Genre Paintings by Kisan Junkeun Kim - Referred from the book 「Korean Games」 - (기산 김준근 풍속화에 나타난 19세기말 일반복식과 놀이문화에 관한 연구 - 「한국의 놀이」 삽화를 중심으로 -)

  • Choi, Eunjoo
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.766-777
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    • 2012
  • The 13 genre paintings by Junkeun Kim in the book "Korean Games(by Stewart Culin 1858~1929)" were used to study the late $19^{th}$ century's basic costumes and Games style in Korea. The people who appear in the paintings are 26 adult males, 2 minor males, 2 adult females and 3 kisaengs. Typical men wore 'Jeogori' which had various colors and white linings with a reached hip line, and knotted with a 'go-rum' on the right side. They also wore, white colored 'Baji' with colorful sash that were knot below knee or ankle together with 'Hang-jun' or 'Daenim'. They wore 'Beoseon'. Some men wore 'Po' whose colors were blue, green, indigo, white. The general women wore 'Jeogori' in deep green and light pink, indigo, green, red, and they matched with colors for 'Kit' and, 'Go-rum', 'Kut-dong' and its 'Go-rum' was short and narrow. It was so fit and short with narrow sleeve. It had 'Dunggun-kit'(round head collar) with white 'Dong-jung' and so it fit at neck. They wore 'Chi-ma' whose color was red, light green, or light indigo. It contrasted with 'Jeogori'. The width of 'Chi-ma' was big enough. Then white inner slacks came out under the skirt. Traditional Korean games can be classified according to age and gender. Then the games can be further classified into three categories : men's games, women's games, and games for all. The games for adult are an archery practice, hunting, shovel work with a karae, making a bow, drawing Jongkung-chart, Korean chess, playing paduk, and the Korean card game. A swing is a game for women. Games for both men and women are dice play, and domino game. Games for both adult and minor males are sledge, and tightrope walking. Through genre paintings in the $19^{th}$ century, I reached a conclusion that basic costumes are similar to 'Hanbok' at the present time and the method of wearing them has not changed much. It appears that the originality of traditional costumes has been maintained.

The Artistic Expression of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ Century and Kosode Design in Edo Era, Focusing on the Influence of Ukiyo-e (우끼요에를 중심으로 본 19세기 유럽회화와 에도시대 고소데 디자인의 예술적 표현)

  • Lee, Keum-Hee;Lee, So-Ryoung;Byun, Jee-Yeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.4
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    • pp.76-97
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    • 2010
  • The purpose of this study is to review the influence of Ukiyo-e on the design of European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century and the expression of the design of Kosode design in Edo-era. We collected data from the actual study of visiting Museums and other theories and visual materials through literature review. Then, we analyzed the data. The result came out that Ukiyo-e, which is the genre painting of Edo-era, provided the new vision and the new way of expression to the European Paintings of the $19^{th}$ century. In the same way, the result also indicated that Ukiyo-e similarly influenced on the design of Kosode. For example, the study showed that the patterns of Kosode, such as flower, bridge, fun, wave, Lotus flower, stripe, oval, plaid, were used in the works of European artists in the $19^{th}$ century. The Ukiyo-e styles include Kan Bun style, Dan-Gawari style, Back facing style, Two-Section Segmentation style, and Folding screen style, with the identity of Japan and Japanese unique nature and landscapes. Thus, this study proved the design of Kosode to be the frontier of both European and Japanese arts, by examining Ukioyo-e's plastic characteristics, its composition & arrangements, and its subjects & objects which were samely revealed in Kosode design and European Art in nineteenth century.

Humors in Female Costumes Depicted in Genre Paintings in the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선후기 풍속화에 표현된 여성복식의 해학미)

  • Kwon, Ha-Jin;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.35-50
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    • 2010
  • In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.

The realization of the inner self of Chosun dynasty's women-Be blessed life with Chosun Dynasty women, see the life of a Chosun Dynasty women as a picture of Hyewon (- 조선 여성이 누린 삶, 내적(內的) 자아경계(自我境界)의 체현(體現) - 혜원의 「전신첩(傳神帖)」으로 보다)

  • Kwon Yun Hee
    • The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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    • v.9 no.2
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    • pp.91-98
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    • 2023
  • Genre paintings, which describes the lives of ordinary people, has lifestyle and Pungnyu of our ancestors. Pungnyu is aesthetic consciousness and a way of lives. The culture of Pungnyu is a kind of art boundary that combines high spirits and art. The Pungnyu is an icon of Korean culture, realization of taste, and happens through "stroll", which means the walking peacefully, and "sightsee", which means go sightseeing. It shows through the rambling and the excursion. Hyewon's 'Jeonsincheob'('傳神帖', a kind of spirit transferred drawings book) is a genre painting which represents Pungnyu and shows various activities at that time. Therefore, we can understand our own spirit and soul through appreciating his paintings. Hyewon's 「Jeonsincheob」 has three special features. Firstly, it is the symbol of Korea traditional Pungnyu. Secondly, it contributes to development of the East art. Lastly, Hyewon's 「Jeonsincheob」 can be considered in terms of glocalism, which means the combination of globalization and localization and can be explained by the relation of the center=the periphery, the globalization=the Korean wave, the universality=the particularity. Hyewon's 'Jeonsincheob' has aesthetic boundaries. One aims at individual pleasure. Another aims at harmony with its natural environment in which you are. Also, it can be considered as the boundaries of enjoying together which aims at harmony with social environment among group members.

Analysis of Clothing in a Painting Album of a 60th Wedding Anniversary Feast in the Collection of the National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관 소장 《회혼례도첩》 속 등장인물의 복식 고찰)

  • LEE Eunjoo
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.76-98
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    • 2023
  • The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.