• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.21-35
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• 2015

This study conducted a research on the position, construction of space and plants of Ten Evergreen's Garden(十靑園) and Oddly Shaped Stone Garden(怪石園) that are central gardens of Eunguhdang(恩居堂) in the poem 'Statement of Responsibility'(Heo Mok, 1595~1682) and Sochi(小痴) Heo Ryeon(許鍊)'s 'Taeyeongsipcheongwondo(漣川台嶺十靑園圖)' in order to bring light on the construction of space and characteristics of them as a garden of the deep pond, Eunguhdang that is a historic site of Misu Heo Mok(許穆, 1595~1682). The characteristics of Eunguhdang, and the meaning of it from the research are expected to be utilized as a basic data for future restoration of it. The results are as follow: In Eunghudang, there are the main building, a detached house, a separated building, and servants' quarters, and the garden consists of Ten Evergreen's Garden between the main building and a Byeolmyo(別廟), a backyard which leads to a green mountaintop, and Oddly Shaped Stone Garden including a pavilion in the front of the detached house. These gardens are thought to have utilized various oddly stones. From the analysis of existing documents such as 'Gwuimonwon(龜文園)' and several interviews, it is concluded that Gwuimunwon might have had Youngdoseo(龍圖墅) that imitated a stream, and Oddly Shaped Stone Garden might have had a garden which imitates Guimonwon standing for graffiti. The evergreen plants in Gwuimonwon correspond to the plants of Sipjangcheong(十長靑) in Youngdoseo, and through these facts, it is thought to have sought "The clean and cool". Furthermore, the diverse colors of flowering trees and flowers in Oddly Shaped Stone Garden and the surrounding of it is symbolizing dragon which is found in Gwuimonwon and that is contrasting with the evergreen plants in Gwuimonwon. The oddly shaped stones in the garden of Eunguhdang have a strange atmosphere which is felt across the whole buildings in Misu, and s a same aesthetic object that are thought to have created beauty of old greenery and antique appearance by utilizing oddly shaped stones. Misu is based on ever green plants seeking change with flowers along with stones that means spirit, body and bones, which is strengthening his intention.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.152-173
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• 2021

The Large Banner was introduced during the Japanese Invasions of Korea with a new military system. It was a flag that controlled the movement of soldiers in military training. In addition, it was used in other ways, such as a symbol when receiving a king in a military camp, a flag raised on the front of a royal procession, at the reception and dispatch of envoys, and at a local official's procession. The Large Banner was recognized as a symbol of military dignity and training rites. The Large Banner was analyzed in the present study in the context of two different types of decorations. Type I includes chungdogi, gakgi and moongi. Type II includes grand, medium, and small obangi, geumgogi and pyomigi. Each type is decorated differently for each purpose. The size of the flag is estimated to be a square of over 4 ja long in length. Flame edges were attached to one side and run up and down The Large Banner used the Five Direction Colors based on the traditional principles of Yin-Yang and Five Elements. The pattern of the Large Banner is largely distinguished by four. The pattern of large obangi consists of divine beasts symbolizing the Five Directions and a Taoism amulet letter. The pattern of medium obangi features spiritual generals that escort the Five Directions. The pattern of small obangi has the Eight Trigrams. The pattern of moongi consists of a tiger with wings that keeps a tight watch on the army's doors. As for historical sources of coloring for Large Banner production, the color-written copy named Gije, from the collection of the Osaka Prefect Library, was confirmed as the style of the Yongho Camp in the mid to late 18th century, and it was also used for this essay and visualization work. We used Cloud-patterned Satin Damask as the background material for Large Banner production, to reveal the dignity of the military. The size of the 4 ja flag was determined to be 170 cm long and 145 cm wide, and the 5 ja flag was 200 cm long and 175 cm wide. The conversion formula used for this work was Youngjochuck (1 ja =30cm). In addition, the order of hierarchy in the Flag of the King was discovered within all flags of the late Joseon Dynasty. In the above historical study, the two types of Large Banner were visualized. The visualization considered the size of the flag, the decoration of the flagpole, and the patterns described in this essay to restore them to their original shape laid out the 18th century relics on the background. By presenting color, size, material patterns, and auxiliary items together, it was possible not only to produce 3D content, but also to produce real products.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.3
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• pp.76-98
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• 2023

The results of analyzing the outfits of male and female characters depicted in the "Hoehonryedocheop" (回婚禮圖帖, Deoksu 6375) held by the National Museum of Korea and estimating its production date of the "Hoehonryedocheop"are as follows. Firstly, an elderly groom is depicted wearing a patterned heukdanryeong (黑團領) with rank badges, a garment commonly donned by government officials in works such as "Jeonanryedo (奠鴈禮圖)" and "Gyobaeryedo (交拜禮圖)". And the old groom in "Heonsuryedo (獻壽禮圖)" "Jeobbindo (接賓圖)" and "Jungroeyeondo (重牢宴圖)" is shown wearing a jarip (purple hat) without a paeyoung (ornamental jewelry strap), accompanied by jade colored robe with a red strap belt. Gireokabeom (雁夫) is observed wearing a jarip (紫笠) adorned with a paeyoung (貝纓) and a patternless heukdanryeong with rank badges. Adult male descendants are depicted wearing dopo (道袍), while guests wear dopo, cheolrik (帖裏), and jikryeong (直領), accompanied by red and blue straps denoting their social status. Jingssi (徵氏), sidong (侍童), and young grandchildren are observed wearing jungchimak(中赤莫). The young servants are wearing jungchimak, and the boys carrying the food have braided their hair and worn sochangu (小氅衣), while adults servants wore jeonrip (氈笠) and sochangui. Performers are seen clad in a sochangui, jeonbok, and a blue sash around their waists. Secondly, the elderly bride is portrayed wearing a keunmeori (ceremonial headdress) and a green wonsam (圓衫) in "Gyobaeryedo," while in "Heonsuyeondo," she is depicted in a blue skirt and a jade colored jeogori (赤古里). Women descendants are shown adorning headdress decorations, such as binyeo(簪), banja(斑子) and pearl daenggi (眞珠唐紒) on their eoyeomeori (於于味, ceremonial headdress). They are further dressed in skirts of navy, red, and jade hues, paired with various-colored jeogori. Additionally, a woman wearing a navy skirt and a green jangot (長衣) is also depicted. The dongnyeo (童女, unmarried women) wear beolsaengmeri (娘子雙髻), headdress) with long binyeo and long dodaik-daenggi (都多益唐只). They wear chilbo-jokduri (七寶簇頭里) and a red skirt with a green hoejang-jeogori (回裝赤古里). Bija (婢子) wears garima (加里亇) on her eoyeomeori and is seen dressed in skirts and jeogori resembling those worn by noble women, albeit with lighter colors, shorter skirt length, and a subdued volume. Ginyeo's attire bears similarities to that of noble women, although with a dress with less vibrant tones and devoid of decorations on the eoyeomeori. Thirdly, based on the main character's jarip, along with the cheolrik and jikryeong worn by the guests, as well as the performances by musicians of the military camp, it is suggested that the main character of the 60th wedding anniversary is connected to the Ministry of Military Affairs or the military camp. Judging by the military band's short-sleeved vest, the silhouettes of the women dress, and the headdresses, it is likely that the "Hoehonryedocheop" was produced between the 1760s and 1780s.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.254-269
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose guidance for wall renewal that is appropriate for an ancient city wall through application of advanced research and theories in wall design. It is a streetscape improvement project which forms part of the "Ancient City Image Finding Project". Study methods consist of advanced research classification, wall design theory contemplation, and analysis of the significance of designated ancient city areas and the "Ancient City Image Finding Project" status. Based on these methods, case study candidates were selected, case status and problems were identified, and improvement proposals were analyzed by comparing various features. Advanced wall research was classified into six categories including analysis of wall characteristics; wall design principle applications; wall structure, color, shape, and application; modern reinterpretation; palace walls; and house, temple, and village walls. The wall is an element of the streetscape improvement component of the "Ancient City Image Finding Project", with the characteristic of providing preceding experience in visual and cognitive awareness than interior structure. Case candidates for ancient city wall improvement are based on the composition distribution of the special conservation district in each ancient city as well as the conservation promotion district. Ultimately, the surrounding village of Gongju-si Geumseong-Dong Songsanri-gil, adjacent to the Royal Tomb of King Muryeong, was selected as the candidate. The "Ancient City Image Finding Project" of the surrounding village of Gongju-si Geumseong-Dong Songsanri-gil began with new Hanok construction. However, wall maintenance did not begin concurrently with that new Hanok construction. Support and maintenance took place afterwards as an exterior maintenance project for roadside structures. If the Hanok and wall were evaluated and constructed at the same time, the wall would have been built in unison with the size and design of the Hanok. The layout of the main building and wall of the Hanok is deemed to be a structure that is closed tightly because of its spatial proximity and tall height. Songsan-ri-gil's wall design should create a calm, subtle, and peaceful atmosphere with shapes, colors, and materials that express ancient city characteristics, but it is in an awkward position due to its sharpness and narrowness. The cause of the problem at Gongju-si Geumseong-dong Songsanri-gil, the case candidate, is that it is lacking significantly in terms of the aesthetic factors that traditional walls should possess. First, aesthetic consciousness seems to have disappeared during the selection and application process of the wall's natural materials. Second, the level of completion in design and harmony is absent. Maintenance guidance after analyzing the cause of problems in ancient city wall maintenance at Gongju-si Geumseong-dong Songsanri-gil, the subject area of research, is as follows: First, the Hanok design and layout of the wall and main gate should be reviewed simultaneously. Second, the one-sided use of natural stone wall in the Hanok wall design should be reexamined. Third, a permanent system to coordinate the opinions of citizens and experts during the planning and design phases should be employed. Fourth and finally, the Hanok's individuality shall be collectivized and its value as a cultural asset representing the identity of the community shall be increased.