• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.47-65
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• 2017

This study is intended to compare an actual wedding dress being made completely through 3D software, and compare it with an actual dress of a real model by using collective tools for comparative analysis. The method of the study was conducted via a literature review along with the production of the dresses. In the production, two wedding dresses for the small wedding ceremony were designed. Each of the design was made into both 3D and an actual garment. The results are as follows. First, the 3D whole body scanner reflects the measure of the exact human body size, however there were some difficulties in matching what the customer wanted, because the difference of the skin color and the hair style. Second, the pattern of the dress is much more easily altered than it was in the real production. Third, the silhouette of the virtual and the actual person with the dress was nearly the same. Fourth, textile tool was much more convenient because of the use of real-time rendering on the virtual dresses. Lastly, the lace and biz decoration were flat, and the luster was duller than in reality. Prospectively, the consumer will decide their own design of variety through the use of the avatar without wearing the actual dresses, and they would demand what the another one desired, different from the presented ones by making the corrections by themselves. Through this process, the consumer would be actively participating in the design, a step which would finally lead to the two way designing rather than the one way design of present times.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.370-379
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• 2021

This study investigated the wearing status and design preferences regarding athleisure wear, focusing on young women in their 20s and 30s and middle-aged women in their 40s and 50s participating in yoga and fitness activities. A total of 332 valid samples were used for the survey by setting the same number of samples for each age group. The results showed that young women in their 20s and 30s exhibited weight control, and middle-aged women in their 40s and 50s maintained their health in relation to exercise. Athleisure wear brands were found to prefer foreign brands over domestic brands. When purchasing athleisure wear, the foremost considerations were material functionality, fit according to body shape, and reasonable prices. The preferred athleisure wear leggings design showed that both middle-aged women and young women preferred nine-piece leggings. Women in their 20s to 50s were found to purchase and acquire information on athleisure wear online. Hence, the pattern of life is rapidly transitioning from offline to online, and the market structure of athleisure wear is gradually transitioning toward an omni-channel society with a distribution market structure that combines information technology(IT) and mobile technologies. Therefore, It is required to develop athleisure wear of various functional products that meet the trends according to the global market environment and consumer class.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.336-345
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• 2019

This study evaluated the preference and wearing characteristics of existing fitness compression wear for elderly women and identified the problems and improvements of existing fitness apparel. Preference and wearing characteristics for 6 types (A-F) of upper and lower fitness compression wear were evaluated. Photos and drawings as well as the preferred designs and details were investigated after presenting the evaluation clothing. Evaluations were made on a 5 point Likert scale for the fitness, allowance, pressure, ease of movement, fabric material, and overall satisfaction after wearing. The design preference indicated that B type (26.6%) and C type (23.4%) were preferred in the top with C, E and F type preferred to the same ratio of 19.4% in the slacks. The fitness and allowance amount of the top B type were the most appropriate (${\geq}4$), the C type was in close contact (2.86), and the F type was inadequate in the neck circumference (1.77). The feeling of pressure was high in the waist, abdomen, thighs, and knees. The area where the elderly people want to improve their strength was the legs; in addition, a pattern design was needed to strengthen leg muscles when designing fitness compression wear. However, a design with excessive adhesion due to a muscle support band was shown to be not preferred. Therefore, depending on the activity, it is necessary to develop a fitness compression wear that applies an optimum stretching ratio of fabric based on body surface area changes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제21권3호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2019

The purpose of this study is to examine fashion trends and the direction of the four fashion collections by analyzing the design key-words of the four major international fashion collections in 2018. The data of this study was collected by extracting the key-words from Marie Claire Korea in 2018, with the total of the collected data numbering 2,144. The data was analyzed by text mining using the R program and word-cloud, and a co-occurrence network analysis was conducted. The results of this study are as follows: First, the key-words of fashion collection designs in 2018 were fringe and ruffle detail, silk and denim fabric, vivid color, stripe and check pattern, pants suit item, and oversized silhouette, focusing on romanticism and sport. Second, seasonal characteristics of the fashion collections were pastel colors in S/S, primary and vivid colors in F/W. Details were embroidery and cutouts in S/S, patchwork and fringe in F/W. Third, the design trends of the four major fashion collections were presented in the Paris collection: stripes, check patterns, embroidery, lace, tailoring, draping, romanticism, and glamor. In the Milan collection, checks, prints, denim, and minidresses reflected sport and romanticism. The London collection included fringe, ruffles, floral patterns, flower patterns, and romanticism. The New York collections included vivid colors, neon colors, pastel colors, oversize silhouettes, bodysuits, and long dresses.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.585-602
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is twofold: First, to develop new sustainable design methods (aligned with ethnic elements and traditional culture) combined with three-dimensional digital clothing technology throughout the design process, which can be presented as guideline materials for various fashion designs to be developed in contemporary sensibilities. Second, it is the intention to produce creative fashion designs by incorporating the characteristics and methods of Miao's Huangping batik dyeing technique and to present various possibilities in the fashion design field. The overall design characteristics sought by Miao minority are in line with the complex terrain and the ecological and climatic conditions. Miaoist batik dyeing (registered as part of Chinese national intangible cultural heritage) features unique production methods and patterns. The study results are as follows. First, this attempt has enabled understanding of the national costume culture as Chinese Miao's traditional cultural heritage to be promoted, while the direction of contemporary design development using traditional elements has been presented. Second, the study demonstrated new and innovative expressions and styles relying on three-dimensional digital contouring technology and identified the possibility of developing various designs. Third, it was confirmed that the dyed batik pattern design created by the three-dimensional digital contouring technology could be recombined or expanded as digital printing to express the traditional ethnic designs in a practical manner utilizing digital printing techniques based on traditional characteristics.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.71-86
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.849-864
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• 2021

This study analyzed product conditions in terms of "size system," "clothing construction depending on fit," "details," "colors," and "prices," with an emphasis on young contemporary brands for spring/summer 2021, in order to provide basic data for the development of small-sized women's jackets. Out of 96 domestic and foreign brands, the study analyzed 254 small-sized jacket products from 23 brands that produce size-XS jackets. First, when examining the sizes for women's jackets, we found that 8 out of the 23 brands offer a size-XXS option. After conducting tree analysis to analyze the factors affecting the production of size-XXS, the study found significant results in the areas of "distinction between domestic and foreign brands" and "product price." Second, after categorizing small-sized women's jackets into 3 categories-fit-slim, basic, and straight-the study analyzed clothing construction elements depending on fit. This seasons mainly feature straight-fit's hip-line length jacket, a 4-panel pattern, and a panel without a waist dart. Third, the study, through the analysis of the colors of small-sized women's jackets, found a higher frequency of colors in the order of black (23.0%), white (13.3%), and beige tones (10.1%), with additional colors such as sky blue, rose pink, and aquamarine in production, which exhibit the senses of the seasons. Price analysis revealed that small-sized jackets constituted a price range at the mid-to-low end, as in ₩50,000-100,000 (30.3%), ₩100,000-150,000 (19.3%), and ₩150,000-200,000 (11.8%).

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.1-21
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• 2022

Purpose of this study is to develop fashion design with greater added value and to seek the expandability of its expression domain by applying special computer code and tape embroidery machine capable of creating more special and fancier fashion to the development of fashion design by focusing on the fashion decorations that are becoming increasingly more computer systematized. For this purpose, expression techniques and effects of computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration techniques, and cases of modern fashion design are examined. Major images are then deduced to designing and production of actual 6 creative pieces equipped with creativity and commercial value by applying such images deduced. As the results, it is not only possible to develop highly value added fashion design by utilizing mixed computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration technique but also to produce countlessly new and unique surfaces by inducing changes in diversified pattern expressions, thickness of cord thread, and width, color and texture of material, etc. of the tape. This can maximize the expression domain of design, and fulfill the fashion desires of consumers wanting modern enhancement of quality and individualization. If multilateral attempts and studies for the aforementioned purposes can be expanded continuously, it is deemed possible to broaden the range of expression techniques in fashion design and, moreover, to make contribution towards enhancement of competitiveness of fashion industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.520-533
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• 2023

The present study developed a test protocol for evaluating the mobility of firefighting chemical and flame personal protective equipment (PPE) for the National 119 Rescue Headquarters in Korea and suggested ergonomic design factors to improve their mobility and performance. Six types of PPE were employed, including three types for flame protective PPE (5 ~ 6 kg excluding the self-contained breathing apparatus), and three types for chemical and flame protective PPE (8 ~ 11 kg). These PPEs are used by the 119 Rescue firefighters. Three male firefighters (34.3 ± 1.2 y in age, 175 ± 8 cm in height, 81 ± 13 kg in body weight) participated in the mobility test and interview. A mobility test protocol consisting of 16 components (nine postures and seven motions including a dexterity test) along with a visibility test were developed based on pre-interviews and literature reviews. The findings indicated that the clothing microclimate humidity on the neck and chest exceeded 85%RH on average for all the six PPE conditions, with the chest area reaching as high as 98%RH. This high humidity caused fogging inside the visor and impaired visibility. The requirements for improving the PPE design in terms of mobility varied depending on whether it was the separated types or all-in-one types, particularly regarding the hood and gloves design. The findings of this study can be applied to improve the design of Level A_PPE for firefighters. The mobility test protocol and visibility test developed in this study can also be applied to other types of Level A impermeable PPE.