• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권1호
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• pp.90-100
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• 2013

This study uses a survey questionnaire to identify the major customer age class of adult women who frequently mountain climb as well as analyze their purchasing behavior and preference of mountain climbing pants. The field survey, classified the types of mountain climbing pants, selected the types of mountain climbing pants that consumers preferred, and then analyzed the degrees of satisfaction for mountain climbing pants based on an evaluation of wearing. Specifically, the patterns of mountain climbing pants preferred by national brands and licensed brands were compared and analyzed. The validities of commercially available mountain climbing pants were analyzed through an evaluation of wearing comfort and an evaluation of wearing on a 3D simulation of the human body. The basic data for the development of mountain climbing pants are presented based on the results. The survey questionnaire results indicate that the major class of women consumers of mountain climbing goods was in the 40s to 50s; in addition, the types they most wore were straight type and functional cut type. The preferred brand was KOLONSPORT (which occupies a 21.2% market share), followed by THE NORTH FACE (13.0%), K2 (11.5%) and Kolping (10.0%). The main reason (26.8% of responses) that they preferred these brands was functionality. The difference in measurement of climbing pants patterns could be analyzed accurately in the pattern analysis, the wearing evaluation by the self-sonsory test and evaluation of wearing comfort through 3D simulation. The results of ANOVA on motions and items indicates that no significant difference was found among motions; however, a significant difference was recognized among items. A comparison of straight type and functional cut type showed that the functional cut type excelled slightly in wearing comfort.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.19-34
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• 1997

The role of fashion image in modern society is being diversified from product planning to consumer satisfaction. In this research, after surveying female college students, the diversified modern fashion image was patterned. On the analogy of the relationship between these patterned image and design factors, the following conclusion was obtained. 1. The most popular styles are jacket and pants suits, three-piece outfits, tight mini-skirts and X-silhouette. Little decoration is used in general. simplicity is shown as trend by utility fabrics in single color-black, brown, beige and blue-with no pattern. Various materials such as wool, cotton, wool or cotton blended with other materials, silk, satin, knit, lace, vinyl and leather are used. 2. Fashion image is divided into four factors; factors that show fad, dignity, activity and simplicity. 3. Factors that show fad; style of tops, material of bottoms and length of bottoms reflect fad. blousons, three-piece outfits, pants rather than skirts, X-silhouette and mini-skirts are prevailing. Vinyl, leather, knit, lace and satin are the materials well used. 4. Factors that show dignity; Style and material of tops, the way of top and bottom pieces are matched and length of bottom or pieces reveal the characteristics. Jackets, blouses, half-coats and one-piece outfits rather than two-pieces are popular. Tight skirts in natural or midi length or pleated skirts are common. Wool, wool blended with other materials, leather and X-silhouette are design factors that reveal dignity well. 5. Design factors that show active image; Straight pants, three-piece outfits, T-shirts, shirt -blouses, vests, and blausons are popular. Knit and lace are used for tops, leather and vinyl are used for bottom pieces and cotton is widely used. Y- or H-silhouette are used to show active image.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.282-297
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• 1996

The effective construction for ready-made clothes is one of the central concerns of both consumers and manufactuers in today's apparel industry. In order to reduce the burden of stocks and increase clothing fitness, systematic information on typical body sizes and somatotypes is essential. The purpose of this study i-: to provide basic data on young women's somatotypes for form designers and pattern makers. The subjects of the survey were 310 women of 18 to 26 years old. The study collected 84 anthropometric data for each Person. The data was analyzed by using of the multivariate method. The factor analysis was utilized in regard to the 65 items obtained from anthropometric measurement respectively. The principal component analysis was applied to the data with orthogonal rotation after extraction. The factor scores used in the factor analysis became the basis of determining the value of each variable of the cluster analysis. The cluster analysis was applied for identifying typical somatotypes. Ward's minimum variance method was applied for the purpose of extracting distance metrix by the standardized Euclidean distance. The element forming each cluster can be subdivided into several sets by crosstabulation which is obtained by the fastclus of the SAS. This research has demonstrated 3 distinctive types of silhouette contour of the trunk. Incidentally it also identified 4 of the lower body from the waistline to thigh contour respectively. The discriminant analysis showed that the most significant discriminant factor of the trunk classification were side neck point -1 scapular -1 waistiline length and waist girth. In Korea, the average somatotype of female college students tends to be tall, slim and straight. Reviewing the relationship between the classifications of three parts of body, they are related to each other to some extent but their distribution are not constant. Therefore, in view of clothing construction, a proper separation of the body surface is a necessity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.270-279
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to make a basic resource in developing a design satisfying male consumers＇ fashion inclination by examining the features of the men＇s fashion style shown in the fashion collections. Collected were 1,291 photos relating to the suit style through the analysis on the men＇s fashion collections for 8 years(1995-2002). Representative men＇s fashion images are extracted from these photos, then figurative features were analyzed and typified according to image, and finally representative fashion styles were presented and its meaning was analyzed. Representative men＇s fashion images are Sophisticated, Casual, Elegant, Active, Natural, Classic, Romantic, Ethnic, Military, Marine, Colonial, and Avant-garde. With the subcategories such as detailed shape of jacket and trousers, the relationship of color between upper and lower clothes, type and organizing method of material quality, type and arranging method of pattern, and coordination, the extracted fashion images were analyzed the figurative features. After finding out the common and different features, four men＇s fashion styles were suggested. Formal style maintains the typical suit style and has the feature expressing the men＇s authority, tradition, and honor. It includes Sophisticated, Elegant. and Classic image. Casual St Sporty style has the feature that there is a change in the volume of suit by adding activity to the typical suit style. It includes Casual, Active, and Natural image. Uniformed style is that political and social environment such as war has an influence on the suit design. It includes Military, Marine, and Colonial image. Deformed style has the feature that it suggests new type instead of adhering to the typical suit design. It includes Ethnic, Romantic, and Avant-garde image.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.58-75
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• 2007

This study held human measurement for 200 male subjects in their twenties in full age living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China. Their lower body types were classified and grouped according to shapes and sizes. Consequently, representative body type reflecting shapes, sizes, and characteristics were chosen and presented with their measurement values to be used as the basic data for slacks pattern making and fitness evaluation. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Homogeneity analysis was given to determine the correspondence relationships among index types, indirect types, and size types. Index Type 1 (H-Round), Indirect Type 2 (Adjacent Straight Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 1 (Medium-Thick) were correlated; Index Type 2 (A-Trapezoid), Indirect Type 1 (Bow Legs & Slight Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 3 (Small-Slim) were corresponded; Index Type 3 (A-Balance), Indirect Type 3 (Balance Legs & Large Slant of Lateral Lower Body), and Size Type 2 (Tall-Normal) were mutually related. 2. Mahalanobis distance based on each shape factor (index or indirect) and size factor (absolute) was obtained, while an index-absolute representative body type group (47 people, 24.4%) and an indirect-absolute representative body type group (45 people, 23.7%) were chosen, each reflecting shapes, sizes, and characteristics. 3. The representative body type group of lower body shapes of Chinese males in their 20s had average measurement values, such as 169.15cm (stature), 73.32cm (waist circumference), 75.76cm (omphalion waist circumference), 91.08cm (hip circumference), 106.02cm (outside leg length), 53.96cm (thigh circumference), and 74.42cm (crotch length).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.741-756
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• 2017

The natural resources of Jeju are recognized as the new regional image of that clean island. Reflecting these trends, this study is initiated to develop a textile design with the motive of persimmon, a natural resource of Jeju, and to apply it to infant's and children's clothes. Its purpose is to highlight the image of persimmon, a traditional dye, as a regional signature for Jeju. Product development procedure included, understanding the use of persimmon for fashion products, analyzing Infants' and Children's designer collections over the last three seasons (focused on 2014S/S, 2015S/S, and 2016S/S), and surveying the Children's Clothes market for persimmon dyeing in Jeju. The conclusion was that, the natural resources of Jeju are highly valuable, and should be applied to textile design and apparel products for children. Utilizing Jeju persimmon was actively studied, but, the market for the Jeju persimmon natural - dyeing products is extremely limited. Moreover, the apparel products for infants and children represent old-fashioned styles, despite their higher prices. Therefore, using the formative characteristics of persimmon for each theme was suggested for development of patterns for textile design. Pattern designs were expressed using textured textile screen-printing, embroidery and $appliqu{\acute{e}}$ for infants' and children's clothes. In this study, a total of 10 items were prepared as apparel products for infants and children. All items were designed considering mix-and-match, potential, with each other or with regular mass-market products. These results are expected to contribute to highlighting the unique image of Jeju and to help promote fashion culture products.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.404-417
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• 2006

The purpose of this thesis, therefore, is to examine the shaping methods and the knitting drafts of sleeve cap in the knitwears which are currently used by the manufacturers; to study the curve forms of sleeves in knitwears by analyzing synthetically the results of investigating the problems of knit wear sleeves; to present the most suitable sleeve cap for the knitwears. As the studying methods, I collected the basic data from the working-level persons of knit wear manufacturers, examined the knitting draft in the knitwears, and from that, made three kinds of comparative experimental garments and one kind of research experimental one as 10G and 16G. In doing so, I showed the sleeve cap suitable for the knitwears with plain stitch after operating sensual evaluation with Liker's 5-point rating measure. The analysis of data was handled with statistics by using SPSS Ver. 12.0; the method of statistics was executed by Frequency Analysis, Trust Analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test according to each topic of the research. As the result of the sensual evaluation of the experimental garments produced from the study, the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one in both 10G and l6G; has less extra folds around the front part of sleeve cap; looks more natural in sleeve caps of the body part and of a sleeve. From this, I am able to figure out that the research experimental garment looks better than the comparative experimental one produced by knit wear manufacturers. In addition, I can come to know that the different knitting of the front line and the back one of armhole in the knitwears has a favorable impact on improving the appearance of a sleeve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.284-293
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• 2015

This study intends to analyze the fit of directly-imported American casual pants for Korean female college students in terms of appearance and comfortableness. The authors carried out a wearing test with sample pants from 3 brands (DKNY: A, Gap: B, Polo: C) that had the most market share and that were mostly preferred by Korean female college students. Results showed that pants A had insufficient ease in the crotch, as the depth of the crotch was short. The hip girth received a low assessment in terms of appearance. Moreover, the hem widths were wide while the pants length was long. Pants B were expected to be most appropriate for Korean women's bodies, as they had the longest crotch depth among the three brands. However, the pants appeared to pull downward due to the narrow thigh and the knee girth and hem width. Moreover, the crotch girth and hip girth received a poor appearance assessment. Pants C were rated as satisfactory for their thigh girth, knee girth, and hem width. However, the crotch was uncomfortable, as it had a short crotch depth. The hip girth received a low appearance assessment. This study suggests that a pattern adjustment is required for directly-imported American pants to provide a better fit for the bodies of Korean women. The crotch depths should be approximately 17.5 cm. The hem widths should be approximately 20 cm. We also suggest a leg length of 75 cm, a waist girth of 86 cm, and a hip girth of 97 cm.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.613-628
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• 2013

This study aims to identify characteristics of neo-naturalism coming from periodical changes in the 21th society, culture based on naturalism and analyze the expressional and design characteristics of neo-naturalism on 2000s. For a research method, this study researched development of naturalism in fashion, and searched digital naturalism and ecology which are design paradigm effecting on neo-naturalism through literature research and preliminary study. Analyzing preliminary study on architecture, interior, fashion about digital naturalism and ecology design, concept of neo-naturalism identified and four expressional characteristics of neo-naturalism was classified, actual examples of neo-naturalism in 21th fashion were extracted and drew design characteristics. The results are as followings. Firstly, naturalism described nature as it is and developed according to the values and needs of the times. Naturalism in fashion showed natrual human body's curve, nature pattern and used natural materical focused on ideal beauty of nature. Secondly, neo-naturalism renews with the foundation of digital culture and ecology design paradigm, and focuses on the flexible possibility to express nature with digital, new media and formative art, and made the artificial nature uniting human-nature-environment as organic whole by ecology design paradigm. Thirdly, design of neo-naturalism divided four characteristics, nature's organic form, combination with the technology, ethical harmony with nature, global local design. The first characteristics of the nature's organic form are expressing silhouette of the nature's organic volume abstractly, the second ones of the combination with the technology are reinterpreting primitive nature contemporary with artificial sensibility of high technology, the third ones of the ethical harmony with nature are showing simple design and high-touch, and the forth ones of global local design are expressing cultural hybrid preserving vernacular design.