• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.149-166
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• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.36-50
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• 2024

This study aims to explore the potential of integrating traditional Indian motifs into modern textile design that appeals to the MZ generation. The objective is to create patterns that reflect the rich cultural tapestry of India while aligning with contemporary sensibilities. To achieve this, the design process includes a comprehensive literature review on the historical background, symbolism, and structure of Indian textiles and a survey to determine if the developed design suits the preferences of the MZ generation. Digital design tools such as TexPro, Photoshop, and Illustrator were used to create the designs based on the theme 'Cosmic Dream,' with sub-themes inspired by nature and Indian symbolism. 'Blooming Cosmos' focused on the structural beauty of the lotus, combined with paisley and rangoli patterns, for a vintage yet modern appeal. 'Cosmos in Blossom' is drawn from the rangoli technique of using varied materials, resulting in a romantic pastel-themed pattern that aligns with the 2023 Youth Trend. 'Cosmic Peacock' presented a lively ethnic pattern by merging simplified lotus motifs with India's national bird, peacock along with a paisley backdrop. A questionnaire was conducted to check the MZ consumer responses, and the most preferred design was the peacock and rangoli mixed design, ground colored in cream. These findings indicate the potential of the developed ethnic designs to be used for various purposes. By combining traditional motifs of India with modern elements, this study proposes ethnic textile designs that are suitable for MZ generation consumers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.199-214
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• 2024

Until now, research on consumers' purchasing behavior has primarily focused on psychological aspects or depended on consumer surveys. However, there may be a gap between consumers' self-reported perceptions and their observable actions. In response, this study aimed to investigate consumer purchasing behavior utilizing a big data approach. To this end, this study investigated the purchasing patterns of fashion items, both online and in retail stores, from a data-driven perspective. We also investigated whether individual consumers switched between online websites and retail establishments for making purchases. Data on 516,474 purchases were obtained from fashion companies. We used association rule analysis and K-means clustering to identify purchase patterns that were influenced by customer loyalty. Furthermore, sequential pattern analysis was applied to investigate the usage patterns of online and offline channels by consumers. The results showed that high-loyalty consumers mainly purchased infrequently bought items in the brand line, as well as high-priced items, and that these purchase patterns were similar both online and in stores. In contrast, the low-loyalty group showed different purchasing behaviors for online versus in-store purchases. In physical environments, the low-loyalty consumers tended to purchase less popular or more expensive items from the brand line, whereas in online environments, their purchases centered around items with relatively high sales volumes. Finally, we found that both high and low loyalty groups exclusively used a single preferred channel, either online or in-store. The findings help companies better understand consumer purchase patterns and build future marketing strategies around items with high brand centrality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.600-613
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide Torso pattern for Korean middle-aged women using 3D human body scan data. 155 women in their 40's or 50's were measured by Martin's anthropometry. Merging the data of 914 middle aged women provided by Korean agency for technology and standards, total of 1,069 subjects' data were analyzed. For data analysis, ANOVA, factor analysis and cluster analysis were done using SPSS PC+. And representative subject of each cluster was selected and they participated in 3D scanning and Torso pattern suggested for middle-aged women Torso pattern which investing the amount of ease according to each group for diffuse front interscye 30%, armscye circumference 30%, back interscye 40% using 3D human body scan data. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, as a result of the factor analysis, the first factor was 'obesity index of body', The second factor was 'verticality size of body', The third factor was 'verticality length of upper bodice', The fourth factor was 'drop value to represent silhouette', and the fifth factor was 'physique of upper bodice'. And, middle-aged women type were classified 3 types according to the cluster analysis. Type 1(Y-type) was the long upper Torso with wide shoulder. Type 2(H-type) was flat-body type with comparatively thin upper bodice and thin lower bodice. And type 3(A-type) was the obese type with comparatively thin upper bodice and fat lower bodice. Secondly, using CAD program, point filtering was performed and approximated surface model was made. It used that generated surface smoothing corrected for abnormally extruded points and scattered points based on the curvature information. And 3D surfaces were flatted onto the plane by the internal tools of CAD program. Difference ratios of outline length and area between 3D curves and 2D plane were 0.42% and 0.54%, respectively. Third, wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that distinct difference almost every category. The movement functionality test shows that, in all the tests which reveal significant differences, especially, 'comparison pattern A' experienced inconvenience to neck width and neck depth.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.155-161
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• 2011

This thesis, concerning Femme Fatale Images Costume Form in paintings viewed from DeLong's Theory, analyzed frequency and traits on the basis of DeLong's Form Observation Theory and drew out the result as followings. First, Costume Form was mostly open, whole, planer integration, rounded, and indeterminate. The styles were similar each other. Second, surface structure was expressed by line & shape, color, texture, and pattern of which color had the highest priority. Next, line & shape and texture had the priority in order. They were expressed through intereaction. Third, the traits of Costume Form were a similar color harmony or large light and darkness contrast+soft quality+interaction by ambiguous line & shape. So, Femme Fatale Image in paintings was expressed by soft and pure images and erotic images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.184-192
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• 2012

This study analyzed silhouette expressions in the fashion illustrations by theory based on results of studying the characteristics of the forms and meanings of the silhouette expressions in art historically. For the actual considering this study collected and categorized fashion illustrations from 1990 to the present limitedly, and clarified the meaning of the silhouette expressions. Those expressions in fashion illustrations were categorized to the 5 items; black & white silhouette, color silhoutte, pattern silhouette, paper silhouette, line silhouette. Silhouette expressions of the fashion illustrations were categorized to 3 items: metaphorical fantasy, essential minimization, anonymous representation.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 2001

본 연구의 목적은 양탄자 시대 Navajo 직물의 특징을 살펴보고, 특히 시간의 흐름에 따른 양탄자의 발달을 고찰하는데 있다. 연구방법은 양탄자 스타일의 특징 및 변화에 대한 문헌을 중심으로 조사하였고, 아리조나 주립박물관과 역사박물관을 견학하였으며 박물관 안에 있는 전문가들의 조언을 듣고 연구의 자료를 보완하였다. 또한 Navajo 직물 전시회에서 실제로 직물을 관찰하였고 주요직물들을 시각적 자료로 제시하였다. 양탄자시대는 20세기 초에 서구인들의 요구에 따라 새로운 형태의 Navajo 직물이 출현하면서 시작되었고 초기, 부흥기, 지역적 스타일시대로 구분되며 1940년대 이후 지금까지 지역적 스타일 양탄자시대에 해당한다. 즉 현재 Navajo인들은 거주 지역에 따라 스타일, 색상, 염색 방법, 디자인이 서로 다른 양탄자를 생산하며 대표적인 것으로는 Crystal, Chinle. Wide Ruin, Two Grey Hills, Tees Nos Pos. Ganado, Storm Pattern 양탄자의 일곱 가지를 들 수 있다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristic and composition factor of Japanese costume design. The stimulus were 25 contemporary costume design which represented the traditional image of Japanese. The main survey of questionary consisted of their evaluation of the Japanese costume image by 26 semantic differential bipolar scales and the subjects were 99 female students majoring in clothing and textiles. The data were analyzed by Factor analysis, Multidimensional Scaling Method and Regression Analysis. The major findings were as follows. As a result of design analysis, contemporary Japanese costume design which represented the traditional image had traditional form, color, texture, pattern, etc. Through factor analysis about Japanese costume image 7 factors were identified; Attractiveness, Attention, Cool and warm, Neatness, Activeness, Maturity, Classics. According to image positioning, Japanese costume design was classified by simple-decorative, soft-hard. As the result of regression analysis, The preference of Japanese costume image was related to attractive factor.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.49-65
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• 1992

The writer did a survey of current textile patterns for the purpose of identifying a motif trend. After identifying a current motif trend the writer used an IBM PC 386 Computer and Lumena Software to design actual patterns. The results are as follows: 1. The most common currently used prints are floral patterns. 2. Knowing that floral patterns are most popular, the writer established a motif using the Rose of Sharon, the national flower of Korea. 3. Using computer graphics to move, enlarge and scale-down motif, the writer has been able to design various textile patterns. 4. Creating patterns with computer graphics was not only more efficient, but it also produced more accurate designs and a greater variety of designs. 5. Using the many computer graphic functions avaliable, a greater variety of patterns changes and compositions can be displayed than would be possible if produce by hand. 6. Computer simulations of textiles and clothing made it possible to evaluate the printed fabric or finished product. Faults in the printed fabric or clothing could be corrented before production. Through simulation then it is possible to create higher quality garments and readuce costly mistakes. Thereby greater profits will be realized from the finished garments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.