• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제49권3호
• /
• pp.113-121
• /
• 2011

This study developed a method of calculating dynamic wearing ease (DWE) to make patterns for coverall work clothing. The DWE was measured from 3D body scan data of women in their 20's (n = 10). The body postures adopted for measuring the DWE were sitting and deep bending postures. Three types of experimental patterns (A, B, C) were developed. The DWE was applied at the waist and hip lines of the pattern. The location and size of the DWE varied from one pattern to another. For pattern B, DWE of 8.8cm was applied at the back of the waistline. For pattern C, 5.3cm was applied at the waist for the center back line, and 3.5cm was applied at the under hip level. The comfort of the experimental clothing was evaluated in six body postures. The results showed that patterns B and C were comfortable at the crotch, shoulders, and arm pits. Pattern C was comfortable at the hip and crotch areas in the arms lifting-up posture and the stepping-up posture. The appearance and fit of the experimental clothing were evaluated by the panels. Patterns B and C fitted better than pattern A at the abdomen. The results suggest that DWE should be applied at the waist and hip levels for making coverall work clothing patterns.

• 복식
• /
• 제65권7호
• /
• pp.32-46
• /
• 2015

Treasures patterns are simplified designs of vessels used in everyday life, which were symbols of luck. Treasures patterns on textiles are largely assorted into four groups: eight auspicious patterns of Buddhism, eight immortal patterns of Taoism, seven treasures patterns of King Chakravarti in the Buddhist Scriptures and normal treasures patterns. Among them normal treasures patterns are most commonly used. Records in the Joseon documents show these patterns as being composed of seven treasures patterns or eight treasures patterns. But observation of the actual relics show that these patterns ranged from four to ten patterns. Korean traditional textiles treasures patterns began to appear in Korea on the relics of the last of Goryeo period. They were used as sub-patterns among main patterns of dynamically rising cloud patterns with five heads. Treasures patterns in the early Joseon period were commonly used as sub-patterns, and cloud and treasures pattern were prime examples of this. In the 16th century, lotus vine pattern, small flower vine pattern, or small flower pattern were often used as main patterns and treasures patterns were regularly used as sub-patterns. The robe of the Great Monk of Seo San was unique, in that both main and sub patterns consisted of the treasures patterns. From the 17th century, treasures patterns began to be used as main patterns. For example, a relic with eight alternatively arranged treasures patterns were found. Though there were still some cases where the patterns were used as sub-patterns, they begin to appear bigger than the previous period and became similar to main patterns in size. In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were various cases where treasures patterns were combined with flowers, fruits, animals, and letter patterns and used as main patterns. And there are many different methods of representing and developing the patterns.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제11권2호
• /
• pp.286-292
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권8호
• /
• pp.1255-1263
• /
• 2008

Study on Hwal-ot, woman's wedding robe of the Joseon Dynasty, has been limited to the Princess Bock-on's Hwal-ot and some folk remains. In this study, I tried to identify formative characteristics of Hwal-ot by studying embroidery design patterns in the royal Hwal-ot. On Mar 26, 2007, I inspected total of 15 pieces of embroidery design patterns for Hwal-ot held at the National Palace Museum of Korea. I classified them into three types of Hwal-ot by considering characteristics in embroidery design patterns as well as composition of embroidery design patterns held by the private. For the Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type I, there is a calligraphy called "Embroidery Design Pattern of Red Long Robe for leo-dong Palace", which is presumed to be the embroidery design pattern of Princess Deok-on, the third daughter of King Sunjo and a little sister to Princess Bock-on. Its patterns are very similar to that of Princess Bock-on's, with similar flower patterns and treasure patterns, as well as overall stripy structure. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type II maintains the same flower patterns and butterfly patterns as in the type I, but does not have the striped decorative. The Hwal-ot embroidery design pattern type III has illustrative design with waves and mountain at the background and a pair of water birds flying around lotus. In particular, the type III design has a nine phoenix pattern at the front part of the robe, illustrating nine baby phoenixes (four in the left, five in the right) under a mother phoenix, which is closer to characteristics found in the Hwal-ot embroidery design patterns at the end of the Joseon dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권5호
• /
• pp.846-858
• /
• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• 한국섬유공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국섬유공학회 2007년도 학술발표회 논문집
• /
• pp.111-114
• /
• 2007

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제45권6호
• /
• pp.986-1003
• /
• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권8호
• /
• pp.1242-1252
• /
• 2006

Many applications in computer graphics require complex, highly detailed models. However, to control processing time, it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models. Therefore, we have developed the notion of an optimal matrix to simplify the model surface which can then rapidly obtain high quality 2D patterns by flattening the 3D surface. Firstly, the woman's 3D body was modeled based on Size Korea data. Secondly, the 3D model was divided by shell and block for the pattern draft. Thirdly, each block was flattened by the grid and bridge method. Finally, we select the optimal matrix and demonstrate it's efficiency and quality. The proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly utilized in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. This can facilitate much better approximations, in both efficiency and exactness.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제10권4호
• /
• pp.379-390
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fitness according to drafting method of the block patterns for women in Korea. The major findings of this study are as follows: 1. According to comparative analysis of required measurements, two measurements of back length and bust girth are used in Proportional Drafting Method (Munhwa). In case of Compromise Drafting Methods are used across chest, across back, bust length, bust width, full length in front, across shoulder and shoulder length in addition to back length and bust girth. The type of Armstrong as a Short Measure Drafting Method uses 10 measurements for the drafting the bodice. 2. While Esmod block pattern arid Armstrong's block pattern are the lightest in full width and other widths. Rasara block pattern is the most ample. In Lee, Myung-hee's block pattern and Lee, Hyung-sook's block pattern, amounts of drooping are decided $3{\sim}4cm$, but drooping amounts of other block patterns are decided corresponding to real measurements. While cap height in Esmod and Armstrong's sleeve patterns are directly measured Armhole length of the block pattern, cap height of other sleeve patterns are used armhole depth and cap height length as well as armhole length. 3. When analyzing to indirect measurements, Esmod block pattern shows the least different between full length of block pattern and that of body form. Munhwa block pattern and Kim, Hyosook's block pattern are mostly same to body form back length. However all of the block patterns are sheller than body form length. In case of Suh, Wansuk's block pattern, across back and across chest are same size, but other block patterns show difference between across back and across chest. Most block patterns' neck width in front and bach bodice are almost same. Front neck width is generally bigger than back neck width in some cases.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제2권4호
• /
• pp.353-359
• /
• 2000

The purpose of this study was to develop the jacket pattern drafting method for Korean middle-aged women. The study was composed as follows : 1. Body measurement and statistical analysis : Two hundreds and forty four middle-aged women between the ages of forty five and fifty nine were measured on 52 items. 2. Development of new jacket pattern drafting method : Measurement items necessary to draft new jacket pattern were back waist length, bust girth, waist girth, hip girth, back interscye breadth, front interscye breadth, neck base girth, nipple length, nipple to nipple breadth, 1/2 posterior shoulder length and sleeve length. Basic jackets constructed from the experimental patterns were examined through the fitting test. 3. Evaluation of the new pattern drafting method : The sensory evaluations for appearance and comfort were applied to evaluate the new jacket pattern by comparing it with one of the conventional jacket patterns (Lee Hyung-Suk's). According to the result of sensory evaluation, the new jacket pattern was more positive.