• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.582-590
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• 2010

Garment design needs an iterative manipulation of 2D patterns to generate a final sloper. Traditionally there have been two kinds of design methodologies such as the flat pattern method and the pattern draping method. But today, it is possible to combine the advantages from the two methods due to the realistic cloth simulation techniques. We devised a new garment design system which starts from 3D initial drape simulation result and then modifies the garment by editing the 2D flat patterns synchronously. With this interactive methodology using real-time pattern deformation technique, the designer can freely change a pattern shape by watching its 3D outlook in real-time. Also the final garment data were given relative coordinates with respect to the human anthropometric feature points detected by an automatic body feature detection algorithm. Using the relative human body coordinate system, the final garments can be re-used to an arbitrary body data without repositioning in the drape simulation. A female shirt was used for an example and a 3D body scan data was used for an illustration of the feature point detection algorithm.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.115-128
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• 2011

Textile fabrication based on traditional culture has grown very attentive as fashion icons in recent so that designers, especially, who want to be the center of attention, may be a public interest and introduce their own culture to the world. In the 21st century by more focusing of our culture, Korean textile designs that is applicable our traditional motifs are required to develop and also its motifs could be comprehensibly got the spirit and the inherent meaning, and should be fuse with modern touch and developed practical design in daily life. Of all many different patterns, this paper placed an emphasis on three of main traditional motifs as a floral arabesque pattern, ivy pattern and butterfly pattern. The traditional motifs were applied through a hand-made technology and the professional design program of TexPro, and then the textile design was simulated by Photoshop to approaching the apparel design. Through these produced artworks, we have conscious that the oriental images have associate traditional meaning and the traditional design tried to express co-existence past and present. Moreover, we believe that the surface pattern design of textile for printing was good chance to relive the traditional meaning, and the tradition is recognized not mere old and expects more advance with applications.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권6호
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• pp.750-763
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• 2013

This research suggests pattern design methods for motion through an evaluation of the appearance and motion of three existing kinds of original patterns (K type, N type, and L type) and modified patterns designed by the researcher. The results of the study are as follows. First, the evaluation of appearances showed that the modified patterns of a standing posture received a higher evaluation compared to the original patterns only in N type and in a sitting posture. In addition, the degree of lowering or a natural feel by the pulling of the slacks waist belt in a sitting posture received a higher evaluation than the original patterns. Second, the evaluation of motions showed that modified patterns received a higher evaluation than the original patterns in almost all items. Per each pattern, it showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort as the whole in N type in crouching motions. The L type showed low scores as a whole (both in original patterns and modified patterns) and the K type showed meaningful differences in questions asking about the degree of comfort of the crista iliaca and groin region in the motion of walking at a normal walking pace, ascending stairs and bending the waist 90 degree to the front. Third, the measuring distance the between back waist point of the body and the back waist point of original patterns and modified patterns during motions showed that the modified patterns of all three patterns (N type, L type, and K type) showed less lowering compared to the original forms in the whole pattern as well as individual patterns. The design method of back waist point developed in this research can be regarded as a design method appropriate for motions.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.292-305
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• 2013

This study reported present state of clothing technical designers' work duties and working conditions, so as to suggest effective ways to develop professional training methods for them. Technical designers working for vendors and agents were surveyed as they represent the majority of technical designers in Korean clothing industries. Survey participants were 62 technical designers working for 6 clothing vendors and 2 clothing agents, and the survey closely inspected their work qualifications, duties and responsibilities, working conditions and training conditions. Survey was conducted from June $27^{th}$ to July $17^{th}$, 2012. The questionnaire examined frequency analysis and multiple response analysis using SPSS 19.0 Windows after investigating documents and work fields through personal experiences and interviews from technical designers for data collection and analysis. A chi-square test analyzed the preferred type of fitting for technical designers of vendors and agents. The results showed that 32.3% of those surveyed have more than 7 years of work experience and the highest level of education is predominantly a bachelor's degree (57 people, 91.9%). Among the work responsibilities, respondents did sample measuring more than four times a day. Also, the results showed that technical designers needed to qualify: first 'Fitting Technic', second 'Pattern Correction Capability', and third 'English Skills to Communicate with Buyers'; subsequently, education on several technics (such as measuring, grading, and fitting) were required for the job. Current technical designers answered that they need more various work-related education. However, the analyzed results showed that pre work-related training was insufficient. The data shows that technical designers require re-education in 'Pattern Correction Method' (61.3%) and 'Sewing Education' (64.5%).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권1호
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• pp.50-66
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• 2010

This Shanghai region study is a sample survey of female college students in their early 20s. This study collected and analyzed the information of shapes through a direct contact survey to understand the breast figures and the measurements of bodies to provide basic information to improve brassiere production for adult females in China. Data was analyzed through a SAS 9.0. The characteristic of the final brassiere pattern that had been corrected and complemented from the results of the $l^{st},\;2^{nd},\;3^{rd}$, and $4^{th}$ fitting tests is defined as a brassiere inserted with a round wire that has the 3/4cup to wrap the bust area by about 3/4. It consists of an upper and lower nonwoven fabric cup that has a flat-shaped wing of a circular dart. The drawing method of the pattern of this brassiere is applied with the conditions to cover the body naturally under the diverse and organic relations of the material factor of stretch material and wire, functional factor, and sewing factor. The final pattern is created as a bigger angle of wing pattern and a short inner side diameter because there are more Chinese women with a back of bending figure compared to Korean women.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2010

This study is focused on the elucidation of efficient and correct marking methods by comparing and analyzing marker efficiency depending on the marking job condition such as interval of checking-pattern and marker orientation using woman's Jacket and Slacks. Research Method intended to compare the marking efficiency of Jacket and Slacks, check-less and check- patterned materials with the intervals of $1.5{\times}1.5cm$ and $5{\times}5cm$ were selected. First, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on check-pattern interval, regardless of the direction of marker position, single-item makers and set-item makers, the efficiency of check-less materials was higher than those of check-patterned materials and increasing the intervals decreased marking efficiency and vice versa. Marking efficiency of Slacks was less influenced than marking efficiency of Jacket by check-pattern interval. Second, in the comparison of marking efficiency depending on the direction of marker position, regardless of check-pattern interval and number of maker pieces, the efficiency of nap-up-and-down position was higher than those of nap-one-way position. Third, the marking efficiency of single-item was more effective than one of set-item in all working condition except nap-one-way position in checkless materials.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.133-143
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• 1978

This study is a latter series of 'A Study on the Changes of Court Dresses in the Yi Dynasty' (see Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 1. No. 2. 1977), and tries to discuss the additional clothing style--- Hapee(하피), Mal(말), Sang(상), Daedae(대대), Pesle(폐슬) and Seock(석) as well as how to obtain the textile fabric used in queens' wedding ceremony and Noeyoe(노의) and Jangsam(장삼). Through Karedogam(가예도감), it can be found that as queen's casual dress gold-round-pattern Noeyoe(금원문노의) was used, and the royal princesses wore Dan Noeyoe(단노의). Noeyoe was long in back and short in front and it was very luxurious with the two-phoenix pattern. Jangsam was queens' casual dress, and the royal princesses wore simple and double Jangsam. In public, the wives of the officials above the 5th-Class in status wore Jangsam; Noeyoe is a higher-class dress than Jangsam.