• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.46-54
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to understand women's wear manufacturing industries. First, the study was to investigate the present production systems and how much the automatic facility are by comparing them. This study enhanced more efficient, stable, and suitable work line. This intern will direct the way in which automatic facilities will be created. Second, through this study on the general character of the inspectors, the ratio of impaired goods, and the reasons for unsatisfactory goods, I intended to find out a way to decrease the impaired goods and to produce competitive and high quality goods. The results of the survey can be summarized as follows; 1. The result of the research on the automatic industrial facilities shows that the majority of the factories (77.4%) are 40% below the automatic facility rate. The reasons for this according to order are that was a deficit in money, no reason for expensive machines, and lack of the technique and the number of workers required to handle the machines. 2. At this time, the most required equipments are shown according to its importance; automatic sewing machine, automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine, and finishing & pressing machine. So in the women's wear manufacturing industries, they think that they need more automatic cutting machine, automatic spreading machine in the cutting field rather than high price automatic machine in the sewing field such as pattern former, pocket welting, automatic sleeve connecting machine and automatic label connecting machine. 3. The result of the research in the goods quality shows that the average impaired rate is 12.7% at the first inspection. In addition the average rate for complete impaired rate is 1.52%. The line system shows that it has a impaired rate that is double the rate of the pair system. Because of this, the industries plan to combine the line system and pair system to create an improved and suitable production system which can boost the quality and productivity of the goods. 4. The fabric is the main point of the impaired goods. The factors of the impaired goods in manufacturing are the lack of mental abilities of the worker, impaired fabrics and a lack of cooperation in the working system. Furthermore, there is a lack of technique for new material. 5. To prohibit impaired goods in manufacturing, there need to be a way to educate the workers and to enhance the workers' mind on the productive goods. Also there need to increase in the investments of automatic production machines. Finally there need to be a standardized working line. Therefore, there need to be an improvement on the management of the production of goods, the development of technique and an increase in the education for the workers, with this there will be a decrease in impaired goods, and an increase in better quality of goods to enforce the domestic apparel industries.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.129-147
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.859-870
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashion reflecting the aesthetic consciousness of a generation and age spirit and to study Mods-Look aesthetically by analyzing how Mods-Look expressed on the fashion magazines(Collezioni Donna) from 2001 to 2006 developed into a new form. 1960's Mods-Look appeared in the well known collections such as New York, Paris, Milan in the form of crossover or with a changed style. Especially after 2000's, in addition to the British fashion, even a new word Mods Story was created to prominently express the free style of the Mods spirit. The expressive characteristics represent 1) minimal style, 2) sports casual style, 3) vintage style, 4) dandy & androgynous style. In conclusion, Mods-Look in 21st fashion used to be street fashion started from minority subculture after world war II, but now suit of that time, geometrical pattern and sensibility are becoming design sources for the various fashion market from high fashion to sports look. Therefore, as young people are becoming the center of society in new millenium, sensibility of that time will be reinterpreted to design and Mods-Look will not be limited to subculture but reflected in design development fulfilling people's taste and new future fashion sense by compromising the past and new trend.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.821-833
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• 2012

This study surveys preferred style and fit problems according to stature groups like short, medium, and tall to offer information to upgrade the clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group. For this purpose, the questionnaire was accomplished, and the respondents were 18-59 year old women divided into 3 stature groups. The 6 questions were: (1) the preferred clothing style for 3 stature groups, (2) the conformity of stature designation on ready-made clothing, (3) frequency of restrictions on clothing design selection because of short or tall stature, (4) the important part to decide a good fit for a jacket, blouse, slacks, and skirt, (5) dissatisfaction with clothing fit and frequency of mending, and (6) mended part for a correct fit. They were analyzed according to 3 stature groups and the differences among 3 stature groups were found on them. For example, short women preferred short jackets; however, tall women preferred a long length. Short women experienced more restrictions on clothing design (or length) selection because a short stature. Hip girth was more important to decide a good fit for tall women versus short or medium women. Armhole and slacks width from crotch to knee were important parts to decide a good fit for short women. The study results should be applied to clothing design (or pattern making) in order to upgrade clothing fit and satisfaction for each stature group.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.736-748
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• 2017

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for clothing industry for active senior males emerging as a new consumer bracket in the rapid aging age. To this end, this study conducted a questionnaire survey on consumers' wearing condition targeting active senior males. As a result of the questionnaire survey targeting active senior males, the outdoor wear items that they had the most were windbreaker jackets, long pants, and they said the most important reason for their preferred brand was wearing sensation. The matters to consider in purchasing outdoor wear were also wearing sensation and size. Consequently, the active senior males regard wearing sensation as very important. The measurements that they felt uncomfortable by body part were the abdominal extension circumference, sleeve length and jacket length of a jacket, and the rise and lengths of pants. To design the outdoor wear patterns suitable for the active senior male's body type, the pattern measurements of these body parts need to be modified. From the fact-finding survey result on outdoor wear companies, their measurement indicating method was the same for jackets, but each brand used different methods for pants. Based on the results of this survey, outdoor wear needs to be developed to meet active senior needs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.31-46
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• 2018

This study was carried out to offer basic data that can be used for outdoor wear production for active senior males, emerging as a new consumer bracket in the era of rapid aging. To this end, this study modified and complemented the patterns of outdoor jackets for active senior males based on existing outdoor jackets that received the most excellent evaluation. On the basis of the research outdoor wear wearing assessment results, this study confirmed those areas to be modified and proposed areas to be considered in manufacturing outdoor wear for this demographic. As a result of existing outdoor wear's wearing assessment, the jacket of brand B was shown to be the most excellent one. This study actually designed research outdoor wear patterns by modifying the problematic parts through the addition and subtraction of spare length or circumference in the sections where fit satisfaction was low by referring to the selected brands' patterns. The research outdoor wear was designed by referring to the preferred outdoor types and colors that were highlighted in the previous survey result of consumer wearing reality, based on the designs of the outdoor wear receiving the most excellent assessment in wearing assessment. Fabric that specially glued two-layered mesh that bonded the thin membrane of synthetic resin with polyester fabric was used as the material in this study. Wearing assessment was conducted by comparing the manufactured research outdoor wear and the existing outdoor wear selected as excellently assessed outdoor wear. Consequently, this study verified that the wearing fit of the research outdoor wear was more excellent in most items. This study proposed final patterns for outdoor jackets suitable for active senior males through the modification of several items that required improvements as per the wearing assessment of the research outdoor wear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.58-67
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• 2006

This study of popular culture is in based on an academic point of view and based thereon an investigation of popular culture from a fashion standpoint follows. This study is to suggest that the popular culture theory can be a basic framework to examine the characteristics of fashion Icon and to verify that the characteristics of Fashion Icon is similar to the codes of the popular culture of today, This study considers the characteristics of popular culture as commercialism, mass-media relationship and a symbolic interaction. The images of movie stars projected through diverse entertainment media are the very fashion icons and strong role models that are copied by consumers. Now, the public take the lead in cultural industry, and they create new images as positive receivers of the images of fashion icons, not as mere imitators or followers. Fashion irons have contributed to diversifying the styles of ideal feminine beauty, and their lift pattern and image are one of the major sources to stir up the imagination and inspiration of people. Thus, the times, fashion and entertainment media have continued to evolve, closely affecting one another, and fashion icons play a role of fashion leader, through entertainment media, who takes the initiative in mass fashion without just being confined to the field of entertainment. This study meaningful from the aspect that discussion of popular culture has been placed in a position that recognizes the entity of and interest in popular culture. through this study, I hope that the scope of interest in Fashion design will expand and that approaches to popular culture will become more diversified.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.650-659
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• 2020

The present study provides reference data required for the design of clothing for the elderly by analyzing the body surface area during fitness motion based on 3D scan data of Korean elderly women. This study was conducted with the procedures of (1) survey of motions and main muscles for fitness, (2) acquisition of 3D scan data, and (3) analysis of rate of change for body surface area during fitness motion. Acquisition of 3D body scan data was obtained from seven elderly females (age: 64-77). We selected 66 anatomical landmarks (40 upper body and 22 lower body) by referring to previous studies. Body surface was segmented by connecting the landmarks marked on the 3D scan data acquired. Analysis of body surface area was conducted in terms of the change rate of surface area in 9 postures of elbow 0°, 90° and 180° for flexion, shoulder 90°, 180° for flexion, shoulder 0°, 180° for abduction, hip 90° for flexion, and knee 90° for flexion compared to the those in the standing posture. The amount of changes in body surface area were 12%-62% in the upper body, 15%-77% in the arm, and 10%-51% in the lower body. A future study on the rate of change of body surface length is needed; in addition, a study on how to apply the results of body surface area and body surface length analysis to clothing pattern design is also necessary.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.55-65
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• 2014

This study analyzes music visualization characteristics in modern fashion based on Wassily Kandinsky's music visualization theory. Alexander McQueen's 2014 Spring Ready-to-wear Collection (as inspired by Mondrian's paintings) was selected as the research subject. First, an analysis of Mondrian's paintings based on Wassily Kandinsky's theory shows that music visualization characteristics can be categorized into spatiality, mobility, and duality. Second, McQueen applied Mondrian's paintings to the overall design, structured the model's shape in the painting, or created patterns using colors and lines that introduced them in clothes; symbolic forms were also introduced as part of or a decorative factor of the clothes. Third, spatiality refers to the creation of a feeling of space through emptiness or fill using lines, colors, and shape. Musical atmosphere such as dissonance were expressed in clothing through the application of color contrast, lines and silhouette dynamics, and symbolic format and patterns by Mondrian. Fourth, mobility generally refers to motion caused by a certain stimulus. Mondrian expressed vibration, internal resonance, sound level in music that emphasized color irregularity, primary color contrast, and rough brush touches as well as free and organic patterns. McQueen expressed this with primary color contrast using different materials, rough touch based on texture, and pattern repetition through transformation. Fifth, duality generally refers to the artistic effect caused by overlap. Mondrian created a resemblance of dissonance and music through line and color as expressed through the duality of clothing design components based on the artistic sense of the designer.