• 한국의류학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.94-105
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• 2021

This study analyzes the shape change of the breast according to the replica combination method of the lower cup and suggest a pattern construction for the end use purpose. To provide appropriate brassiere patterns to each individual who has various 3D shape characteristics, the ways of layout of 3D replicas were investigated as well as evaluated subjectively and objectively. As for experimental brassieres, basic replicas from the mold cup of long-run brassiere were combined into five different ways to find the appropriate lower brassiere cup pattern. Eighteen women wore experimental brassieres and their breasts were analyzed using the Geomagic Design X program (3D System, Inc., Korea). As result, the pattern that matched the vertexes of the four pieces of the replica and naturally spread the bottom part was best for raising and pushing toward the inside breasts. The fit was good in the case of a pattern in which the convex portions overlapped both sides of the four replica pieces where the vertexes and the bottom part naturally spread apart. The subjects were able to differentiate comfortably fitted brassieres and highly functional brassieres.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권11호
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• pp.1271-1284
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• 2011

This study improves the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms through the development of a shirt pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. A calculation formula is formed through a correlation analysis and regression analysis using Size Korea 2004 3D measurement data after analyzing 4 kinds of existing shirt pattern drafting methods and 3 types of shirt patterns currently used for the Air Force service uniform. The results of this study are as follows: The developed pattern drafting method has 4 parts that use calculated dimensions: neck base width, front interscye, back interscye and scye depth. Other body measuring parts that have a high correlation with calculation parts are inserted into regression analysis as independent variables to create dimension calculation formulas. The result of the final study patterns were better than existing winter service uniforms in nearly all items for the appearance evaluation and motion adaptability evaluations. The method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ after the completion of pattern drafting method development.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.1008-1017
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• 2005

When we develop 2D pattern from replica of human body with small pieces, it is inevitable to have some replica pieces overlapped or departed. In this study, the optimized method of 2D pattern development from the 3D replica pieces was investigated using dress-form. Among six arrangement methods, anchoring two vertexes of a replica to neighboring vertexes of a next replica induces the optimized 2D pattern by evenly distributing stress across the 3D replica pieces. Anchoring neighboring vertexes resulted in automatic widening k overlapping (W & O) the interspaces among replicas of dress-form, thereby stress was distributed more evenly than any other method. W&O arrangement method was verified to be the best by examining the 3D space distribution images between body surface and twelve experimental garments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.23-36
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• 1987

The purpose of the suudy was to develop a computer program for pattern mating of women's pant's. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern mating. The VAX-11/750 Computer and the CALCOMP PLOTTER 965 were used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows : 1. A slacks pattern was selected. 2. The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in draffing. Total sixty co-ordinate points were instituted from (AX(1), AY(1)) to (AX(24), AY(24)), from (BX(1), BY(1)) to (BX(36), BY(36)). 3. A program for drafting was developed. Refer to (Table 3). 4. The procedures of drading of standard size were accomplished by using same method. The program was developed to drafting pattern for women by putting indivisual body measurement. The body measurements for stacks pattern were as follows : slacks length. Croach length. Hip length. nip circumference. waist circumference.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.