DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Development of Nude Pattern on Top for Producing Parametric Production Patterns

파라메트릭 프로덕션 패턴 제작을 위한 상의 누드 패턴 개발

  • Kim, Na Rae (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University) ;
  • Nam, Yun Ja (Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University) ;
  • Park, Jinhee (Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University)
  • 김나래 (서울대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 남윤자 (서울대학교 의류학과/서울대학교 생활과학연구소) ;
  • 박진희 (서울대학교 생활과학연구소)
  • Received : 2019.07.22
  • Accepted : 2019.09.02
  • Published : 2019.10.31

Abstract

The automatic drafting of clothing patterns can be realized through an Apparel Cad System when the clothing pattern has a pattern expression in human dimensions. However, it is difficult to apply automatic systems because it is difficult to express the ready-to-wear of various complex designs with one system. This study develops ready-to-wear patterns in an automatic drafting style and also develops nude patterns with human dimension-based drafting styles that can be applied to enable the setting of margins by design. For this purpose, radial body length measurement items and measurement methods were newly defined for female standard dummy and nude pattern systems. The institutional program was developed through the principle of a nude pattern system which is different from the pattern system of the existing system. The nude pattern developed in this study represents a basis and framework for the gradual transformation of the production pattern into the automatic system of the future and as a pattern having an institutional formula based on human dimensions.

Keywords

References

  1. Bye, E., Labat, K. L., & Delong, M. R. (2006). Analysis of body measurement systems for apparel. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24(2), 66-79. doi:10.1177/0887302X0602400202
  2. Han, H. S., Kim, J. Y., Kim, S. M., Lim, H. S., & Park, C. K. (2014). The development of an automatic pattern- making system for made-to-measure clothing. Fibers and Polymers, 15(2), 422-425. doi:10.1007/s12221-014-0422-6
  3. Hwang, S., & Nam, Y. (2002). A study on the development of torso pattern for an automated order-based manufacturing system - Focused on women in the twenties -. Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea, 21(1), 67-80. doi:10.5143/JESK.2002.21.1.067
  4. International Organization for Standardization. (2017a). ISO 7250 -1:2017 Basic human body measurements for technological design - Part 1: Body measurement definitions and landmarks. International Organization for Standardization. Retrieved from https://www.iso.org/standard/65246.html
  5. International Organization for Standardization. (2017b). ISO 8559 -1:2017 Size designation of clothes - Part 1: Anthropometric definitions for body measurement. International Organization for Standardization. Retrieved from https://www.iso.org/standard/61686.html
  6. Istook, C. L., & Hwang, S.-J. (2001). 3D body scanning systems with application to the apparel industry. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 5(2), 120-132. doi:10.1108/EUM0000000007283
  7. Kang, T. J., & Kim, S. M. (2000). Development of three-dimensional apparel CAD system Part 1: Flat garment pattern drafting system. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 12(1), 26-38. doi:10.1108/EUM0000000005318
  8. Kim, I. H. (2015). Development of a pattern generation algorithm for men's jacket according to the types of body surface development figure (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul National University, Seoul.
  9. Kim, I. H., Nam, Y. J., & Kim, S. M. (2013). Development of air force winter service uniform slacks pattern and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 15(2), 256-267. doi:10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.2.256
  10. Korean Agency for Technology and Standards. (2004). 5차 인체치수조사 [The 5th Size Korea human body survey report]. Size Korea. Retrieved from https://sizekorea.kr/page/report/3
  11. Lee, S. J. (2013). Classification of obese male's body types and development of torso pattern (Unpublished doctoral dissertation). Seoul National University, Seoul.
  12. Lee, W.-K. (2000). Development of pattern generating programs for easy-order customers (Unpublished master's thesis). Ewha Womans University, Seoul.
  13. Lim, H., & Istook, C. L. (2012). Automatic pattern generation process for made-to-measure. Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 7(4). Retrieved from https://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM/article/view/2465
  14. Suk, E.-Y., & Kim, H.-K. (2002). A study on the development of the automatic drafting of slacks pattern for elementary school girls and the evaluation of fitness of slacks using 3D scanner. Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea, 21(3), 59-81. doi:10.5143/JESK.2002.21.3.059
  15. Xiu, Y., Wan, Z.-K., & Cao, W. (2011). A constructive approach toward a parametric pattern-making model. Textile Research Journal, 81(10), 979-991. doi:10.1177/0040517510388552
  16. Yamamoto, T., Doi, M., & Fujishiro, I. (2005). Development of pants slopers with automatic drafting functions and human body measurement for use in apparel CAD education. Proceedings of the Ninth International Conference on Computer Aided Design and Computer Graphics (CAD- CG'05), Hong Kong, China, 193-198. doi:10.1109/CAD-CG.2005.33
  17. Yoon, M. K. (2016). Technical fitting management. Fashion Information and Technology, 13, 11-22.