• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.51-61
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• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.14-25
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• 2009

This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.82-92
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• 2015

This study classified the types of adult male shoulders through criteria which represent the characteristic of male shoulders important to jacket patterns. We selected 39 measurement items to provide information about Size Korea (2010) 3D bodice measurements. Collected data were processed with SPSS 20 for windows. Participants in the study were 1055 adult males, aged 20-60 divided into three age groups of 20-30, 40-50 and 60. Statistical tests (such as descriptive analysis and F-test) analyzed the data and ascertained the differences in ages. In a factor analysis and cluster analysis were conducted for the classification of shoulder type's adult males. The factor analysis indicates 6 factors with 82.4% of total variance. The shoulder types for adult male were divided into 3 groups, flat shoulder (14.1%), normal shoulder (72%), and slope shoulder (13.8%). A total of 19.9% of 20-30 was included in the slope shoulder type, 15.8% of 40-50 was included in the flat shoulder type and 16.1% of 60 was included in the flat shoulder type. This study classified the type of male shoulder through criteria that represent the characteristics of elderly male shoulder to neck base circumference, shoulder angle and shoulder type. The follow-up study will proceed with elderly male neck and various measurement items around the shoulder.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.614-623
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop a wedding dress basic torso pattern and sleeve pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s. For the research method, 3 women in their 20s who has the body size of ${\pm}$ S.D range of average figure and dress form suggested by 'the 5th human body measurement' of Size Korea were selected as the test group. The evaluators are 8 clothing construction majors, and the evaluation items included total 22 questions related to torso and total 10 questions related to sleeves. The evaluation was made using 5 Likert point scale. 4 prototypes for basic dress pattern were selected through the literature search. After compare analyzing design methods of prototypes, the real wedding dresses were made in the average size of women in their 20s and the dresses were tried on for the assessment. The data was analyzed using SPSS 18.0 Program to examine average, standard deviation and significant differences between basic patterns. Based on the results of the first and the second try-on assessments, a new wedding dress basic pattern with maximized strengths of compared prototypes was completed. The details of result follows. As for dress torso basic pattern, A pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. As for dress sleeve basic pattern, B pattern, which had the highest overall silhouette satisfaction and scores in basic pattern analysis and try-on assessments, was selected as the prototype, and a research basic pattern reflecting strengths of each basic pattern was developed. In this study, a wedding dress basic pattern considering good fit and aesthetic for figures of Korean brides in their 20s was suggested. It is expected that the basic pattern will be used by continuously developing dress market and ready-made wedding dress manufacturers as well as in educational institutes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.196-207
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• 2014

This study considers expression types and aesthetic characteristics by analyzing Animal sculptures by Billie Achilleos in art collaboration with Louis Vuitton. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, As for expressin type shown in the art collaboration, it is reflected the historical and cultural value peculiar to a country symbolized through animals. As the aesthetic characteristics of symbolism, it reflects historical identity of country by using an image of a symbolic animal representing a state. Second, as the type shown in physical characteristics of animals by utilizing items in Louis Vuitton directly, it is organically expressed a literal type by directly integrating a form having been designed as a commodity itself into the characteristically physical part of an animal. As the aesthetic characteristics according to this is naturality, the motive of the work having borrowed shapes of diverse animals or insects can be said to have been naturally reflected in the primitive natural beauty. Third, through the deconstruction and recombination of a Louis Vuitton item. the amusement of the aesthetic characteristics was expressed in a type having the structurally embodied dynamic movement of an animal, and is expressing visual fun. Fourth, it uses expression type emphasized a specific part of an animal by decorating accessories in Louis Vuitton partly. The aesthetic characteristics is Ornament, the value of craft decoration is being shown by using colorful visual effects by using materials with the colorful textures and patterns of fabrics or mixing embroidery or beads, and belt decoration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.255-265
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• 2014

This study developed and proposed a pattern that can fit the body and compensate for the defects of the body type by applying shoulder princess line to the torso pattern and including formative characteristics of each object on the study of body shape's change in 40-59 year old middle aged women. The results of this study are as follows; First, according to the analysis of 'Size Korea 2010' such as average, standard deviation, minimum value, and maximum value of 48 items, women showed increase in most of the items except height as they became aged. Second, factor analysis was made to understand the shape component factors of middle aged women and to use them for the body type classification. Third, cluster analysis was made according to the shape of front and sides which should be considered in pattern production based on the factor analysis results, and the body type with the measurement values most similar to the average of direct measurement of 'Size Korea 2010' was set as standard. Fourth, in designing torso patterns through the $1^{st}$ and the $2^{nd}$ wearing experiments according to the body type, body shapes such as Chest Circumference, Waist Circumference, Hip Circumference, and Waist Back Length were considered in pattern design, goodness-of-fit was enhanced with difference in margin according to body type and different margins in front and back, and fitting satisfaction was improved by applying princess line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.219-230
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• 2013

To generate future profits, luxury brands need to recognize and understand customers as individually important and analyze the impact factors that improve specific customer equity. With the growing recognition that customer equity is a key strategic asset, this study empirically investigates the effect of customer equity drivers on customer loyalty based on the study of Vogel et al.(2008) which expanded the Rust et al.(2000)'s study on customer equity. We empirically examine if the customer equity drivers have a different impact on customer loyalty. This study hypothesizes that the relative effect of customer equity drivers would be different depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers and examines the effects of them on the relationship of the drivers of customer equity and customer loyalty. We use stepwise multiple regression analysis to empirically test the relationship of value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity and customer loyalty. Relationship equity influences customer loyalty more strongly than value equity and brand equity. Customers seem to build loyalty based on the careful assessment of all costumer equity drivers (value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity). In addition, their relative impact is different depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers. A company cannot maintain all customer equity drivers at a high level with limited marketing resources; therefore, marketing investment for all customer equity drivers need to be allocated differentially depending on the purchasing behavior of consumers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.34-46
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research buying behavior and home fashion preferences based on housing size. The target consumers were Korean women, aged 20~40s who reside in the Seoul & Kyunggido areas. We distributed questionnaires to 650 women. However, only 600 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. Data analyses were conducted with SPSS program on the frequency, Chi-square test, cluster analysis, t-test and ANOVA. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The considering factors for purchasing such as brand, trends coordinating existing furnishings with new products and functionality were significantly associated with housing size. The buyers who reside in bigger size homes. over 40 pyung place higher value on brand name, trends. or coordinating existing furnishing with new products than residents in smaller units. However, women who live in smaller units place higher value on functionality when purchasing home fashion products. Considering factors such as brand, trend, and materials were also significantly associated with segmented age group; 40~49 age group considered brand, trend, and materials more than 20~29 age group. The group who are highly interested in home fashion considered design/color, rand, coordination, and functionality than the group who are low interested in home fashion. 2. Residents in over 40 pyung homes buy home fashion products at department stores, while residents in less than 39 pyung homes buy them at discounted store. 3. Respondents preferred solid colors more than patterns. However, they favored character pattern for textile bedding products for their children. 4. there is also a statistical difference in preferences for types of window treatments between large ad small housing sizes. Residents living in over 40 pyung preferred tie-back/cottage curtain, while residents living in less than 29 pyung preferred Roman shade style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2011

The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.