• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.92-102
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• 2011

This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.675-689
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• 2014

This study developed an ideal jeggings pattern with an improved body fit for 20-24 year old females. The results of the study are as follows. First, samples for wearing test were made using jegging patterns from three manufacturers; subsequently, one pattern with a relatively outstanding body fit was selected from the first test. The selected pattern suggested a tight knee, belly, and crotch, high front waist line, and low back waist line. The side lines were also lean to the front; consequently, the front hip width was extended for 0.5cm for more space around the belly and the extended front knee part for 0.2cm to increase moving suitability to fix the leaning side lines. A 1cm front waist line was extended for 0.5cm to fix it lower; in addition, the back waist line 3.0cm was extended for 0.5cm to heighten it. The crotch width was also extended for 0.5cm to add more space. The second wearing test for the fixed forms were evaluated for their outstanding features in appearance as well as moving functions that were proposed as final jeggings forms. The results of the study suggested a jeggings pattern with a better body fit using manufacturer patterns that can be used as basic data for pant patterns with better fitting using various stretch fabrics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

Digital transformation has induced changes in human life patterns; consumption patterns are also changing to digitalization. Entering the era of industry 4.0 with the 4th industrial revolution, it is important to pay attention to a new paradigm in the fashion industry, the shift from developer-centered to user-centered in the era of the 3rd industrial revolution. The meaning of storing users' changing life and consumption patterns and analyzing stored big data are linked to consumer sentiment. It is more valuable to read emotions, then develop and distribute products based on them, rather than developer-centered processes that previously started in the fashion market. An AI(Artificial Intelligence) deep learning algorithm that analyzes user emotion big data from user experience(UX) to emotion and uses the analyzed data as a source has become possible. By combining AI technology, the fashion industry can develop various new products and technologies that meet the functional and emotional aspects required by consumers and expect a sustainable user experience structure. This study analyzes clear and useful user experience in the fashion industry to derive the characteristics of AI algorithms that combine emotions and technologies reflecting users' needs and proposes methods that can be used in the fashion industry. The purpose of the study is to utilize information analysis using big data and AI algorithms so that structures that can interact with users and developers can lead to a sustainable ecosystem. Ultimately, it is meaningful to identify the direction of the optimized fashion industry through user experienced emotional fashion technology algorithms.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.175-187
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.232-246
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate aesthetic characteristics and aesthetic consciousness of the style that European fashion(Paris, London, Netherlands) has accepted the since $19^{th}$ century. The mode Japonisme's development process in around $20^{th}$ century and 21st century has 6 characteristics as follows; 1. Accepting kimono as dressing gown 2. Accepting kimono as Japanese style's objet of Japanese taste 3. Accepting Japanese textile's skills, patterns, and asymmetry. 4. Accepting kimono's formative nature : flat pattern, flexibility, style etc. 5. Shocking of Japanese style's beauty 6. Accepting characters and casual wear Japanese aesthetic consciousness expressed on unconstructed design or deconstructed design that is the aesthetic characteristic of Japanese fashion is , , and the aesthetic consciousness expressed on Zen(Seon) style, cartoons of character fashion, and costume play is .

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.49-59
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• 2013

This research study investigates the cultural significance and meaning of Thai Mudmee, their historical content, and the variety of the Thai Mudmee techniques, including patterns, symbol and colours. The aim has been to develop the traditional pattern and designs of the Thai Mudmee and produce contemporary textile pieces more appropriate for modern lifestyle tastes both in Thailand and Internationally. By reviving the Thai weaving tradition it is also hoped to encourage and maintain the continuous survival of tradition Mudmee, providing new sales opportunities and markets both in Thailand and abroad. Studying various attempts to redevelop traditional crafts in different countries brought to me the idea of how to develop folk crafts, the problems that occur in this area have encouraged me to express how folk crafts could be benefit from the design process. In this thesis I also express my recommendations for other researchers and the Thai government, as well as other people who interested in Mudmee design. The thesis concludes with the possibilities of how to improve the design of the Mudmee fabric and further areas of research.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.314-324
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to obtain the dyed-fabrics of the elaborate patterns using the natural dye powders extracted from Galla Rhois, Sophorae Flos Immaturus, Clove, Sappan Wood, Madder, Log Wood and Japanese Green Alder. Specific informations on the separation and powder-making of each colorant were disclosed. Appropriate printing paste preparation and printing conditions including the viscosity and mordant concentration in the printing paste were investigated. The dyeability and colorfastness of the screen-printed silk fabrics with the colorant powders were discussed in terms of practical applicability. The deodorization and antimicrobial activities of the silk fabrics screen-printed with natural dyes were also assessed.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2000.04a
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• pp.144-148
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• 2000

A new paradigm is urgently needed to create the textile product that appeal to human Kansei or Gosei. A future of textiles depends heavily on this new paradigm. In order to create new paradigm Kansei color designs by pleasant sound are tried. These computing color designs are treated by the method of Fast fourier Transformation. As several result good color designs are given in forms of ring color patterns and band. But these judgments depend finally on human kansei. These new technology give us good hints in order to create new paradigm that appeal to Kansei goods. This new concept should be developed to higher level by additional improvements.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.5-21
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• 2001

The intellectual properties right are becoming very critical issues in domestic fashion industries and also international trade. Although it is true that intellectual properties rights are commonly infringed in fashion industry, none of researches has been done for this matter. The present study is to analyze the patterns of infringement by case analysis, which was limited to trademark and trade dress. As a result, in case of trademarks, counterfeiting was relatively clear case, but it is generally investigated by prosecutes whereas the judgement of similar trademark has been taken by legal lawsuit. In case of industrial design(trade dress) most of disputes were related to textile design and modified Korean tradition dress. Reflecting the short history of protection of intellectual properties rights many informations and legal regulations should be established by te government and by the association of fashion related industry.