• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.363-372
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• 2007

T-shirt has changed into advanced and stylish outwear by new paradigm, taste of consumer, awareness of recycling, spread of subculture, DIY culture, refusal of standardization and pursuit of high quality goods, etc. The purpose of this study was to analyze aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs that changed into diverse designs in world fashion college since 2000. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, fashion magazines and internet fashion site. Aesthetic characteristics of t-shirt designs were expressed in deconstruction, mixture, integration and imitation. And each of external expressions and internal meanings was as follows: First, deconstruction was expressed in partial cutwork and three dimensional texture by sewing and construction drape. It means breaking the conventional structure and break-ing the boundary of t-shirt and another item and possibility of multi-vocal analysis. Second, mixture was expressed in collage of diverse ornaments, diverse fabrics and diverse patterns. It means exceeding the limit of material, elaboratenes and high quality of handwork, reflection of self-identity, brand image, fashion trend, consumer's psychology and mind of experimentation and couture. Third, integration was expressed in extension of length, width, use and style. It means unification of functions, deconstruction of items and extension of meanings and images. Forth, imitation was expressed in stain of dye, irregular and ripped sign, cut out, rough warp, drawing and washing, etc. It means subculture, rarity value, monopolization, diversity, familiarity, yearning and uniqueness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The dress and ornaments in the Taijiang were fashionable, which were densely populated with Miao nationality. Women's traditional festive dress in Taijiang included an embroidered blouse and a pleated skirt. The garments are decorated with plenty of ornamental designs. The colours of festive dress were as rich and gorgeous as those of fashinable desses. Embroidery was very popular in Taijiang and its principal feature is embroidery with loose, coloured floss silk. The image of patterns changed ingeniously and colourfully but do harmony. In the using of colour, one kind of the festive dress was in the main red, which means a bright dress. The colour of another kind of festive dress was blue, which means a dark dress. There were many kinds of silver ornaments for women. Taijiang was most outstanding in this respect. The great variety of silver ornaments was a unique feature of women's dress in Taijiang.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.618-626
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• 2006

This research explored the actual conditions, problems and design preferences of dementia inpatient clothing. Data were collected by surveying 21 dementia hospitals and nursing care facilities and 87 caregivers and nurses of dementia hospitals. The collected data were analysed through frequency analysis, descriptive analysis and factor analysis. The results were as follows, First, the inpatient clothes of dementia hospitals were two-piece styles, the shirts of front opening with buttons and pants of no opening with elastic band. Those of dementia care facilities were two piece styles of shirts and pants, training suits or private plain clothes not uniform. Severe dementia inpatient dressed uniforms of the jump suits or two piece styles in some dementia care facilities. Second, the problems of dementia inpatient clothing were composed of suitability of raw and subsidiary clothing material, diversity of design and size, durability and form stability of clothes and elastic bands. Third, the design elements similar to those of existing inpatient clothing were preferred with regard to improving dementia inpatient clothing. That is, the design preferences of shirts showed front opening style with buttons, round neckline and a three-quarter-length sleeves. Those of pants came out no opening style with elastic band and full length. Also, pink color and natural patterns were preferred, and the private plain clothing of inpatient and fusion Han-bok style were somewhat preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.695-704
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• 2011

This study is an attempt to explore the expressive techniques and characteristics of tie-dye shown in the contemporary fashion. In doing so, the study conducted a literature review and analyzed the works show cased for 2001S/S through 2010F/W, especially from the "big four" collections in Paris, Milan, New York and London. In the contemporary fashion, tie-dye techniques such as tying, folding and sewing are used in an independent or combined manner to express unique images. They also highlight decorative images in combination with a variety of decorative techniques including draping, pleating, beading. In light of its characteristics, tie dye expresses unique formative aesthetics with diverse patterns and creates more gorgeous images than when many different colors are used for dyeing. The dyeing process works as a critical factor influencing the overall image of design, as it is expressed as a pattern by being applied on the whole of an item rather than in part of clothes. The characteristics of tie-dye techniques used in the contemporary fashion are associated with the expressions of natural beauty, abstract decorative beauty, and dynamic rhythmical beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.689-697
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the representation forms of bloggers' personal style on the fashion blogs and enlighten their values which can be actively applied to design and marketing in fashion industry. Image representation of fashion bloggers is reflected by the characteristics in the digital environment, which are the creative manipulation of expression and the production of virtual and fantastic images by taking advantage of the composite medium such as images, music, videos, articles, etc. Also real time updates in blog indicate the latest trends in terms of the representation of image as the actual currency. The study conducted case studies of 5 women's personal fashion blogs through the verification of a variety of global fashion media and blog ranking sites: Style Bubble, Style Rookie, The Cherry Blossom Girl, The Blond Salad, and Fashion Toast. Research findings are as follows. First, the application of creative design elements is indicated as symbolic items, self-made designs, DIY, and various mix and match emphasizing design elements such as color, patterns, proportion, etc. Second, the virtual representation is very highlighted on the story telling applied by film like production or digital effect. Third, the commercial application with mainly sponsored wardrobe and designer collaboration indicates promoting a updated trend as well as a specific brand or designer to make their business profits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.776-786
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• 2016

This study intends to suggest production process of circular knitted jackets and dimensional change data of finished clothes after washing. the study provides pattern design method of circular knitted jackets by applying dimensional change. By doing so, the purpose of this study is to increase production efficiency through accurate order in consideration of loss amount of the fabrics in production. With the three fabric materials selected, this study investigated dimensional change of circular knitted jackets after sewing and washing by varying the parts to be attached to padding cloth and with or without inner lining. As for the fabric F-C (including the spandex, thicker and weightier than the other two fabrics), front width shrunk by 4.6%, which showed the biggest shrinkage among the jackets made of test fabrics. Then it suggested design methods of circular knitted jacket patterns to which dimensional change is applied according to materials, and analyzed the amount of fabric required for production by comparison of the materials. When using the fabric F-C without inner lining, there is big dimensional change and more than double amount of fabric is required. It is expected that the research results will be a basic data for pattern design and production process of circular knitted clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.190-202
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• 1995

The Optical Art is based on the principle of visual perception of the illusionary effects which induce psychological responses. It has influenced greatly on the Texile Design in that unique iJlusionary creativity of pattern simulates the visual sense of special movement; the dynamic psylosophy of vitalism. The Optical pattern has become a highly valued item due to its innovative effect in aesthetic direction. According to Vitor Vasarely the pioneer in this area, the integration and the inseparability of form and color which he calls 'Plastic Unity' provides the basis for the composition of infinite variety. The composition of infinite variety. The composition reveals the complex interaction between the space and form relating to order, repetition, combination and permutation. It is not simple to create optical patterns due to the extreme complexity composed by the multi-dimension and the infusion of form and color giving immensely varied movement. The purposes of this study are as follows; 1) to classify the complex processes of optical pattern on the basis of formative method. 2) to develop creative ideas for progressive contemporary textile design In this study, the analysis of applied methods is concentrated, which is based 1) on the gradual modification and on the transformation of the basic plastic elements which depend on thle direction of visual points involVing contradictory perspectives 2) on the composition varied special situations by repeating, overlapping and converging a series of idetUical units or by means of irrdiation, radiation and etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.109-121
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• 2017

In this study, we proposed the Bustier which improves the fit and functionality to compensate the physical defects by maximizing the volume up effect using the breast detailed measurements and shapes of the poor breast female subjects. Based on the preliminary study of the problem and preference according to the characteristics of the poor breast women consumers, we produced 1/2 volume mold cups based on the previous research. Respectively. A total of 5 subjects were selected, and new 3 bustier patterns based on the pattern making system of industry were created through direct measurement and shapes. As a result of verifying the usability of the developed bustier by testing the commercially available bustiers and the newly developed bustiers for 5 subjects. In order to compare the existing bustiers with the newly developed bustiers, the appearance evaluation by the expert, the evaluation of the adaptability and satisfaction by the subjects were utilized. Through this experiment, the newly developed bustiers were superior in the evaluation of the motion adaptability and wear comfort as well as appearance test. It was shown that the wear effect of the bustier with the longest back length was the best.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.565-574
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the historical background and basic composition of costume of the Baekje period. Main official hats of Baekje include the transformed hat, jougwan and daeryun-style ipsikgwan. Daeryun-style ipsikgwan employed chowha shape in most cases, symbolizing good auspice under the harmony of the male and female principles. Main types of costume of the Baekje period are po, yu, go and sang. The king, governmental officials and the common people all put on po of jikryeong gyoim style. Yu' is classified into two styles, chaksu with the narrow sleeve and daesu with the broad one. 'Go' has two styles, gunggo and gwango. The former is narrow in the breadth of the trouser and the latter, wide. 'Sang' is classified into various style according to whether it contains stripes of many colors, thin wrinkles or thick wrinkles. For the decoration of official hat used in the period of the Three Kingdoms, Baekje employed chowha in shape, Kokuryo, chowha and joik and Shilla, joik. In Baekje, rhythmic patterns of flame were applied to official hats, presenting brilliance. In Shilla, shaking geumyeongrak was used for official hats to show movement. In Kokuryo, such hats used flapping feathers, symbolizing dynamic power. Most necklaces and bracelets of the Baekje period were simple and plain.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.749-755
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• 2004

This paper was conducted to compare the methods of women's basic pattern and the problems by analyzing the space between skin and clothing using 3D scanner and thereupon, proposed the solutions. The Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University(Bunka) and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli(Secoli) were used. The subject who has nearly the same body size with N type of National anthropometric survey of Korea in 1997 was picked out. In the result of analyzing the space between skin and clothing of each pattern by 3D Scanner, there exist significant differences in the chest and bust parts. The Bunka has more space than the Secoli at bust part, especially between bust points. Because the Bunka has the bust dart which was made from only the bust girth, it couldn't reflect the difference of each human body. Whereas the Secoli has the bust dart which gave a consideration the difference between the bust girth and the chest girth, it has more even space between skin and clothing.