• Title/Summary/Keyword: Surface water waves

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Estimation of the sea surface wind from surface reverberation signals

  • Na, Jung-Yul;Kim, Sang-Kyun
    • The Journal of the Acoustical Society of Korea
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    • v.15 no.2E
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    • pp.45-49
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    • 1996
  • From the reverberation signals received in the shallower water, the surface scattered signals are identified by using the multipath eigneray model that provides launch angles, grazing angles and transmission loss from the high frequency directional source to and from the rough surface. For small scale surface waves, the perturbation method is used to compute the backscattering strength for various grazing angles and wind speeds. A scheme to inversely estimate the wind speed, by which the observed surface reverberation levels are produced, has been tested. In result, for low grazing angles the perturbation method can be used to predict the backscattering stregth, thereby the surface wind can be indirectly estimated.

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A time-domain analysis for a nonlinear free-surface problem (시간영역에서의 비선형 자유표면파문제에 대한 수치해석)

  • Kyoung Jo Hyun;Bai Kwang June;Chung Sang Kwon;Kim Do Young
    • Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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    • 2002.08a
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    • pp.381-384
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    • 2002
  • The free surface flow problem has been one of the most interesting and challenging topic in the area of the naval ship hydrodynamics and ocean engineering field. The problem has been treated mainly in the scope of the potential theory and its governing equation is well known Laplace equation. But in general, the exact solution to the problem is very difficult to obtain because of the nonlinearlity of the free surface boundary condition. Thus the linearized free surface problem has been treated often in the past. But as the computational power increases, there is a growing trend to solve the fully nonlinear free surface problem numerically. In the present study, a time-dependent finite element method is developed to solve the problem. The initial-boundary problem is formulated and replaced by an equivalent variational formulation. Specifically, the computations are made for a highly nonlinear flow phenomena behind a transom stern ship and a vertical strut piercing the free surface.

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Analytical Studies for SASW Measurements Underwater

  • Lee, Byung-Sik
    • Geotechnical Engineering
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    • v.13 no.3
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    • pp.53-62
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    • 1997
  • Analytical studies were conducted to develop the Spectral-Analysis-of-Surface-Waves (SASW) method for underwater use. For the precise estimation of the in-situ soil stiffness profile from SASW measurements, it is essential to determine economical and reasonable theoretical dispersion curves reflecting various experimental conditions. In this paper, therefore, analytical methods are mainly discussed, which were developed to determine theoretical dispersion curves of surface waves propagated along the soil-water interface. Application of the analytical methods is then illustrated by an example involving estimation of a stiffness profile through a forward modeling process of SASW measurements. Applicabilities of the SASW method as well as the developed analytical methods are evaluated, respectively, from the example.

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Characterization of Sprays used Ultrasonic Vibrant Plate with the Surface roughness (초음파 진동판의 표면조도에 따른 분무특성에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jun-Baek;Jeon, In-Kon;Jeon, Heung-Shin
    • Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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    • 2000.11b
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    • pp.732-737
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study is to compare the SMD(Sauter mean diameter) with different vibrant plates. Each vibrant plates have different surface roughness. Also liquid film thickness are measured for explanation how to concern atomization. Ultrasonic waves is used for vibration. Immersion liquid method is used for the measure of SMD and also liquid film thickness is measured using of point needle method. Distilled water and gasoline fuel are used to liquids. Supplied liquid flow rates are $18{\sim}296cc/min$. Centerline average roughness of vibrant plates are 0.5, 2.0, 4.7, $9.5\;{\mu}m$ and diameter of vibrant plate is 60mm. In result, good atomization of liquid is obtained in widen flow rates. The mean droplet size is increased in orders of 4.7, 2.0. 9.5, $0.5\;{\mu}m$ surface roughness. Distilled water has a big mean droplet size than gasoline fuel in low flow rate. Above the 78cc/min flow rates, distilled water has a small mean droplet size than gasoline fuel. Liquid films changes are measured with ultrasonic power. Also, cavitation effect on sprays is observed.

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Analysis of Wave and Current in Anmok Coastal Waters (안목해안의 파랑과 흐름 분석)

  • Lim, Hak-Soo;Kim, Mujong
    • Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.7-19
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    • 2017
  • In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

A Study of Variation of Wave-induced Stresses in a Seabed (파랑하중에 의한 해저지반의 응력변화에 대한 연구)

  • 장병욱;박영권;우철웅
    • Magazine of the Korean Society of Agricultural Engineers
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    • v.38 no.1
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    • pp.79-89
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    • 1996
  • It is expected that the soil hehaviours in the seahed subjected to cyclic wave loads are much different from that on the ground Cyclic shear stresses developed below the ocean bed as a result of a passing wave train may progressively build up pore pressure in certain soils. Such build-up pore pressure may be developed dynamic behaviour such as liquefaction and significant deformation of the seabed. Currently available analytical and testing methods for the seabed subjected to cyclic wave loads are not general. The purpose of the study are to provide a test method in laboratory and to analyse the mechanism of wave-induced stresses and liquefactions potentials of the unsaturated silty marine sand. It is showed that the test set-up made especially for this study delivers exactly oscillatory wave pressures of the form of sine function. Laboratory test results defining the cyclic shear strength of the unsaturated porous medium that is homogenously sedimented. It is understood that the pore water pressure due to induced-waves is not accumulated as the wave number increases but reveals periodical change on the still water surface. The magnitude of the pore water pressure tends to be attenuated radically with a certain time lag under the action of both high and low waves as depth increases.

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Bullet Train of Giant Nonlinear Internal Waves from Luzon Strait

  • Liu, Cho-Teng;Hsu, Ming-Kuang;Chen, Hsien-Wen;Wang, Dee-Way;Chyou, Yuan-Jie;Lee, Chang-Wei
    • Proceedings of the KSRS Conference
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    • v.2
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    • pp.934-937
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    • 2006
  • In the northeastern South China Sea (SCS), fast westward moving (about 2.9 m/s) non-linear internal waves (NLIWs) are emanated nearly daily from the Luzon Strait. Their propagation speed is faster than NLIWs previously observed in the deep water of world oceans, their amplitude of 140 m or more is the largest free propagating NLIWs so far observed in the deep ocean. These NLIWs energized the top 1500 m of the water column, heaving it up and down in 20 min. Their associated energy density and energy flux are the largest observed to date. During 2005 and 2006 experiment, they were found west of the HengChun Ridge (HCR) that links Luzon and Taiwan Islands. This coincides with founding in satellite images, no NLIW front was found east of HCR. But, the turbulent environment east of HCR may prohibit surface signature of NLIWs that were emanated from sills between Batan Islands. The relative contribution of the two ridges on NLIW in Luzon Strait is still under study.

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On the Joint Distribution of Wave Height, Period and Wave Direction in Random Sea Waves (다방향불규칙파랑장에서의 파고, 주기, 파향의 종합확률분포 유도과정 및 적합성)

  • 권정곤
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.75-82
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    • 1990
  • A Wave transformation including wave breaking in shallow water region is a non-linear and discontinuous Phenomenon. Therefore, a so-called individual wave analysis (or a wave by wave analysis) rather than spectral approach seems to be adequate to investigate the wave transformation in such regions. In this study, a theoretical joint distribution of wave height, period and wave direction of zero-down crossing waves, which is required in the individual wave analysis in the shallow water region, is derived based on the hypothesis that sea surface is a Gaussian stochastic process and that a band-width of energy spectra is sufficiently narrow. The derived i oint distribution is found to be an effective measure to investigate characteristics of three-dimensional random wave field in shallow water through field measurements.

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Mapping of the water Quality of lake by using Landsat TM Images (Landsat TM영상을 이용한 호수의 수질분포도 작성)

  • 박종선;최승필;최철순
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Surveying, Geodesy, Photogrammetry, and Cartography Conference
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    • 2004.04a
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    • pp.285-290
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    • 2004
  • Sensors of Landsat detect different objects with different waves, so the range of water quality conditions can be accurately checked, and their images can be displayed in colors. The present study was conducted to measure the degree of clearness and depth and to detect elements from the surface water of Hwajinpo Lake. Based on these results, water quality of the lake was analyzed, and the range of water quality was drawn graphically. According to comparison outcomes, the new technique of detecting water elements from DN of Landsat TM images and drawing the range of water quality produced a far more accurate pattern for a wide area than the direct measurement. To display the pattern more clearly, the stretching technique in particular was very effective in the pattern analysis.

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An Ocean Wave Simulation Method Using TMA Model (TMA 모델을 이용한 해양파 시뮬레이션 방법)

  • Lee Nam-Kyung;Baek Nakhoon;Kim Ku Jin;Ryu Kwan Woo
    • The KIPS Transactions:PartA
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    • v.12A no.4 s.94
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    • pp.327-332
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    • 2005
  • In the field of computer graphics, we have several research results to display the ocean waves on the screen, while we still not have a complete solution yet. Though ocean waves are constructed from a variety of sources, the dominant one is the surface gravity wave, which is generated by the gravity and the wind. In this Paper, we Present a real-time surface gravity wave simulation method, derived from a precise ocean wave model in the oceanography. There are research results based on the Pierson-Moskowitz(PM) model[1], which assumes infinite depth of water and thus shows some mismatches in the case of shallow seas. In this paper, we started from the Texel, Marsen and Arsloe(TMA) model[2], which is a more precise wave model and thus can be used to display more realistic ocean waves. We derived its implementation model for the graphics applications and our prototype implementation shows about 30 frames per second on the Intel Pentium 4 1.6GHz-based personal computer. Our major contributions to the computer graphics area ill be (1) providing more user-controllable parameters to finally generate various wave shapes and (2) the improvement on the expression power of waves even in the shallow seas.