• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.7-12
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• 2002

This study is aimed to find the scouring mechanism at the toe of rubble mound structures. To investigate the characteristics of scouring in front of the structure, experiments were performed with regular waves in a 2-D flume. The results of this study are as follows. 1) It can be said the characteristics of incident wave causes rolling and sliding of armour block. The difference of wave pressure on the slope, internal flow as well as settlement of armour block due to the weight cause scouring. 2) It is observed that scouring depth at the toe increased when wave height or period increased. The location of ultimate scouring and deposition depth moved seaward when wave period increased. 3) The failure of rubble mound structure was caused by waves or scouring. Failure by erosion increased with high waves and long waves. 4) Using surf-similarity parameter including characteristics of incident waves and structure, scouring and deposition pattern were found and their limit was formulated.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.363-368
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• 2017

The tsunami flood the coastal cities and damage the land structures. The study on wave pressure and force on land structures is one of the important factors in designing the stability of inland structures. In this study, two - dimensional wave flume tests on the horizontal wave force and pressure of tsunamis on a simplified box-type structure was conducted. Vertical distribution and wave power of horizontal wave pressure over time were measured by pressure sensors and force transducer. Also, those were measured from the different wave breaking types. The vertical distribution of horizontal wave pressure was uniform at the moment when the horizontal wave force to the structure was maximum under the breaking wave condition. A surf similarity parameter was employed in order to figure out the relationship between the maximum horizontal wave force on the structure as a function of various incident wave conditions. As a result, the non - dimensionalized horizontal wave force tends to decrease exponentially as the surf similarity parameter increases.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.713-719
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• 2001

The aim of this study is to check the application criteria of the conventional techniques and clarify the effects of breaker depth, seabed conditions on the stability in relation to the effects of uncertainty of storm duration and directional irregular waves. The typical damage modes were divided by the direct wave force on the armor unit and by the local scouring around the toe of a breakwater head by the model experiments. The destruction modes are defined, and some criteria on the damage modes and scouring/deposition at the toe of a breakwater head in relating the wave-bottom-structural conditions can be checked using the multi-directonal irregular wave generator system. According to the results, it is emphasized that the 3-D effects on the stability should be analyzed in the design of multi-purpose/function coastal structures in consideration of the evaluation of spatial variation of damage modes and hydraulic characteristics as well as the wave distribution along the structures.