• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.41-52
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• 2009

In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice $Fr{\acute{e}}churet$. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.251-268
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• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.65-76
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• 2001

The hat is the most flexible human head covering. Almost entirely enveloping the hair, it can be simple, pure, elegant and mysterious. Yet it is frequently a highly decorative form of dress. The hat also takes a part in the extension of the area of art as soft-sculpture. My purpose of this thesis is to present diverse artistic hats with natural images by nontraditional materials and natural resources. The reason why I select nature as them is that it is absolutely the origin of life and art. To develop the innovative hat design, I focus on the material to extend the range of art expression. I observe nontraditional materials such as wire, paper and so on that enhance heterogenetic feeling from natural images. The attempt is made to enhance the visual effect by harmonizing the disharmonious feeling. Natural resources such as moss, orange, feather and so on could be adapted to the hat and applied for unique design, which supplies new expression. Therefore, the harmony of natural images and natural resources could avoid dullness, bestow elegance and polish the unique beauty creation of the hat.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1193-1204
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• 2011

As designs that simulate man's five wits are important, all five senses used are complex. Tactil value by Bernard Berenson means that the object in fine art makes the spectator feel like his or her finger is touching something, although the spectator is distant from the art piece. Especially as costumes have a relationship with the flexible skin and moving body, tactile modality and tactile value is more important. In order to analyze how Madeleine Vionnet realized a new femininity through the application of the principal of tactile value to dress design and in order to define tactile value in the field of fashion, this study examines the theory of tactile value, sculpture, painting, contemporary art, and product design as well as the design of Madeleine Vionnet from 1925 to 1937 because she was in the fashion business enlarging dress shops in New york during this period. The shape of Madeleine Vionnet's dresses made the concealed body alive through organic curves pressed against the body from cuts and dissections based on the anatomy of a supple body with curves and movement. In the garments, soft physical characteristics or the glossy touch of silk or pile textile imitated smooth skin while colors similar to a woman's eye, hair, and skin color continue the impression of the dress extending to the body through these design elements, Madeleine Vionnet's dresses reinforce the will to touch female body hidden under the dress by tactile values, not by the body's modification or visual exposure.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.69-80
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• 2000

Body has been high-lightened as one of the most important theme since the philosophy and the arts are focused on it in the late 20 century. Resurgence of interests in human body has been based on the skepticism on rapid digitalization and do-materialization currently undergoing in electronic media environments. Artists have been endeavoring more and more to find a synthesis which links the conceptual and the sensuous in their works as digitalization gets faster and faster. The Bodily-oriented art uses its visceral qualities, either literally or metaphorically, to engage our total being, not just our mental consciousness, in building a sensuous, evocative statement. Its transcendent ideas are inter- mixed with the fabric of the world. We are touched by this art not only because we understand it cognitively, but because we "feel"it. These characteristics of textile arts caused gradual increase of soft-sculpture works using textiles and implies possibilities of inter-grade of physical and mental world. Ann Hamilton, Magdalena Abakanowiz, Folly Apfelbaum and Pallid Dougherty are, for example, related to the fiber arts. It would be of worth to study the characteristics of contemporary faber-art works, especially done by Abakanowiz who has been regarded as a dominant pioneer in the contemporary fiber arts from the viewpoint of inter-grade of the physicals and the mental. This paper, therefore, deals with the Abaknowiz′works in the context of human body and body-signs. Life and works might be classified into 5 stages; first, learning period since her birth in 1930, second, creation period of Abakan, third, remodelling period of Abakan, fourth, composition and dissolution period of Abakan and the last and fifth, new transformation period of Abakan. ′Abakan′through her whole life as an artist has been a plastic language and based ultimately on external human body but in various materials and forms.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.163-180
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• 2019

A pattern is a symbolic mark of the psychological expression and ornamental desire of the human interior. In particular, plant patterns, from ancient times to modern times, express beauty across both the east and the west. The Joseon dynasty had a strong national will, and it was a time when the symbolism of Korea was established. Plant patterns were decorative and symbolic, filled with meaning in both the textile and craft sectors. This study looked at the frequency and figurative characteristics of the types of plant patterns in textiles, ceramics, woodworking, and metal craftsmanship of the Joseon dynasty. In addition, pattern designs were developed by extracting unit patterns to maintain the original shape, and by adding, magnifying, reducing, and superimposing flat steps and employing the four-fold sequence. The data collected was 826 examples in textiles and crafts, and 34 species of plants were analyzed as follows. In general, the flower patterns preferred soft flowers, flowers, apricot, and peony patterns, and fruit patterns emerged as decorative designs for pottery and woodwork from the 17th century, featuring pomegranates, grapes, fluorines, peaches, and walnut floss. Textiles and woodwork were arranged with many circular designs, while pottery and metal crafts were filled in many ways. Expressive types appeared to be the same as stylistic types for textiles and ceramics, and the construction types were the same in pottery and metal crafts. As such, it was found that even in the different areas of the sculpture, the same aesthetic values were reflected in the common figurative features today. Therefore, in this study, we developed a unique and competitive pattern design that accommodates the modern times and the Joseon dynasty. This development is expected to contribute not only to the development of cultural and tourism products in the future, but also to the tourism industry induced by the Korean wave.

• Journal of Science and Technology Studies
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• v.4 no.2 s.8
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• pp.67-101
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• 2004

Although the study of citation patterns is an important theme within the sociology of science, due to the fact that it is intimately related to the production, reproduction, and evaluation of knowledge, only sustained theoretical research outlining the differences of citation patterns between the hard and soft sciences has been conducted, and empirical studies nevertheless remain few and far between. The perspectives of institutionalism and constructivism have to attempted to explain different citation patterns between the hard and soft sciences as a contrast between 'what one says' and 'who one is'. Therefore, against this background this study examines the 'theoretical' controversy empirically by comparing the contrasting citation patterns of physics, as a representative of hard science, and sociology, as a representative of soft science. The results, in brief, are as follows: the citaton patterns in physics, as in sociology, vary according to the author's status within the hierarchical employment structure, i. e. whether s/he is a full-time lecturer or not, but diversity of citation patterns according to Ph. D. diploma area is unique to sociology. These results would suggest that the explanation of constructivism is more relevant in explaining variance according to the author's status in the employment hierarchy, but the approach of institutionalism is more appropriate to understanding variance due to Ph. D. diploma area. Furthermore, this implies the complex diversity of the citation patterns between the hard and soft sciences, pointing us to the more qualified conclusion that rather than having to choose between institutionalism and constructivism according to a mutually exclusive either/or logic, these two approaches can in fact be mutually complementary, and these approaches should also be applied piecemeal to different levels of phenomena. In conclusion, this comparative research enables us to assert the following two claims: firstly that physics, as a 'science in society', produces knowledge dependent on social context, and secondly that it also possesses a characteristic that transcends locality from the view of a sociology of knowledge.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.8
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• pp.1364-1377
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• 2010

Although the human body is a biological subject with definite and distinctive physical features, its actualization and perception differs among societies. The aesthetics of the human body are based on diverse cultural perceptions that must be considered prior to design development. This study establishes the foundations of newly adopted concepts of beauty that are presumed to have been established in the first half of the twentieth century that continue to affect our mindset even now. The research includes human figures in the articles of women's magazines and cosmetic advertisements in the early $20^{th}$ century. The results are as follows: First, the change of perception in the human body: Instead of being a subject of preservation, the body has become a subject of sculpture with emphasis on health in the 1920's and on beauty in the 1930's. The recognition of the importance of the body has created intensive attention on physical training and an increased sense of hygiene. The body exposed to the public perceives itself through the eyes of others that alter one's own perception of oneself as well as become a target of evaluation. There is an additional emphasis on the exotic eroticism of a passive subordinate. Western culture became the standard for modernization along with the dissociation of traditional standards and values. Through the effect of education and western thinking, the awareness of women's rights and self-appreciation was developed. Second, ideal beauty can be summarized as follows: Unprocessed natural beauty was extolled as ideal in the 1920's, but the 1930's, it highlighted big eyes and an aquiline nose that are the characteristics of western women. Taking care of one's appearance was recognized as an important value for every social class. Cosmetics and skin care treatments promised soft and white skin. In contrast to western cosmetics, dark and shiny hair was highly favored. Exercising and traveling, differing seasonal and regional skin treatments were also widely accepted. In its initial stages, the research had originally assumed that the beginning of the twentieth century would be a time in which traditional concepts of beauty and new, westernized aesthetics coexisted. However, as the research progressed, it was clear that the idea of beauty had already adopted occidental ideals by that time. Thus, it seems necessary to continue the study on the shifting paradigms of beauty that must have occurred in the nineteenth and late twentieth century.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.535-548
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• 2016

Hanging paintings are used for special ceremonies in Buddhist temple. They are stored in special storage box called "Gwaebulgwae" which means storage box for a hanging painting. Studies regarding pigments, background fibers and textiles of hanging paintings are carried out with many data in the field of conservation science. However, there are only few studies for the axes of hanging paintings and storage boxes. In this study, species identification for wooden axes of hanging paintings and storage boxes from the Joseon dynasty are carried out. Hanging painting of Beopjusa temple, Magoksa temple, Sudeoksa temple, Gaeamsa temple, Sudosa temple, Bukjangsa temple, Dorimsa temple, Tongdosa temple and Daeryeonsa temple are selected. Sampling is carried out from the axes of hanging paintings and storage boxes. 81 samples are collected from hanging paintings and storage boxes. As a result, 51 hard pines of Pinus spp., 8 Tilia spp., 6 Juniperus spp., 5 soft pines of Pinus spp., 4 Tsuga spp., 3 Pseudotsuga spp., 2 Berchemia spp., 1 Pyrus spp., 1 Bambusoideae are identified. Tsuga spp. and Pseudotsuga spp. might be used in conservation and restoration works in modern times because those species do not naturally grow in Korea. Most hanging paintings and storage boxes are made of hard pine. Also, some of are made of Tilia spp., because it represents the symbol of Buddha. Some unique kinds of trees used for wooden sculpture are identified, such as Juniperus spp. and Berchemia spp. Authentic conservation and restoration works could be carried out with this data-base.