• Title/Summary/Keyword: Sleeves

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A study on the origination and Transmission of Yu in Northeast Asia. -from the 4th Century to the 8th Century- (동북(東北)아시아 유의 기원(起源)과 그 교류(交流)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) -$4{\sim}8$세기(世紀)를 중심(中心)으로-)

  • Cho, Sun-Hee;Park, Kyung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.17
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    • pp.29-43
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    • 1991
  • Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

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A Study on the Costume of Khotan (우전(Khotan)의 복식에 관한 연구)

  • 김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.34
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    • pp.169-182
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    • 1997
  • Focusing on khotan located in the southern Silk Route which was one of the most important kingdoms in the Tarim Basin this study attempts to examine the changes of costume in Khotan by compar-ing the costumes in the painted panel showing the story of silk princess with the excavated costumes from ancient tombs. Furthermore this study attempts to inves-tigate the impacts of cultural exchange be-tween China and its western neighboring country Eastern and Western Turkestan on costume. Excavated costumes from the Shanpula ancient tomb in the region of Khotan and from ancient Niya in the esat-ern border of Khotan and discoveries from Rawak and Dandan-oilik near by Yotkan the ancient capital of Khotan are exam-ined. Basic Khotan's costume was the two piece style of tops and trousers. Over the basic costume wearing a top wear with half sleeves was popular. Skirt was worn by women. Even though there were many kinds tops were classified into the two types kaftan and tunic. Thouth Khotan maintained a association with China for a long time the style of Khotan costume had imbued to China. Top wear with half sleeves was worn frequently in Khotan. Also in China top wear with half sleeves was worn as over-wear which was called ban-xiu ban-bi bei-zi Costume style of China is covering the body profoundly and wrapping front edge toward the right. The types of chi-nese top wear with half sleeves for exam-ple round-neck·confronting front edge crossing-neck·confronting front edge tu-nic type discord with the traditional chi-nese costume style There were many cas-es that half sleeved top wear was worn as over wear in T'ang dynasty. The phenom-enon was due to the prevalence of 'ho' (foreign) and half sleeved top wear was introduced by the countries to the west of China Khotan. A round neck garment was a general type for the men of cuntries to the westof China. Also Chinese wore round neck garment since South and North Dynasty The type of Chinese round neck garment was not tunic but kaftan. From costume relics and ancient paintings the type of Khotan's round neck garment was tunic which was recorded on the Chinese histori-cal documents as " guan-tou-shan" that is tunic the type of persian costume, Even thgough the painted panel showing the sto-ry of silk princess was made in the it me when Turks was a dominion on Central Asia Khotan's costume style was not changed toward Turk's costume style and remained tunic style.

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A Study on the Origin and the Developing Process of Vest for Men (남성 Vest의 기원과 변천과정에 관한 연구)

  • 김서영;이순홍
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.56-72
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    • 1998
  • Vest is a general term for a sleeveless upper garment and it derives from a kolobus of a sleeveless tunic style that was started to be worn as a substitution of a chiton by the peasantry in Greek period. The kolobus started to be called a colobium or a tunica from Roman period and the former was named for a vest style tunica which was worn by the people of the lower classes in early Roman period. Similarly, a German colobium of North Europe which was worn during the same period was the same kind of clothe as the Roman colobium. The colobium came to be worn over a dalmatica as an outer garment by early Christians when it was the Middle Ages, who succeeded the tradition of colobium as they went through ancient Rome, Creek and Byzantine days. North Germans also succeeded the colobium tradition of ancient Germans as it was and so continued to wear it in tight style. The simple vest style of colobium was getting vanished from the mid of the Middle Agnes and a new style of vest named jupon was started to be worn by soldiers. The jupon was to protect soldiers' bodies from either were cold weather or enemies wearing under armors as it was made with double cotton pad by quilt. From 14th century, the jupon began to be worn by not only soldiers but also the humble of lower classes. All the jupon which were made in quilting and padding of that time began to be named a pourpoint by the humble. When Renaissance in 16th century came, the pourpoint began to be developed to an exaggerating body-line style. The neckline of pourpoint was getting highly influenced by Spain and a peacecod-belly of it emphasized the exaggerated masculine beauty of Renaissance by padding in round. The sleeves were puffed out and the whole purpoint was made to expose an inner chemise by slashing vertically or obliquely. But in 17th century, the pourpoint has been changed into more simple style without padding, puffing out and slashing influenced by the citizens' clothes of Netherlands. The pourpoint came to be more comfortable bulky style with short sleeves or sleeveless and straight side lines. The pourpoint in mid 17th century turned to be a bolero jacket style by gradually being tightened. It had been then changed into a vest style with sleeves and worn under an overcoat with the name of vest in the end of 17th century. The early vest was 2∼3 inches les in length than the overcoat and had long sleeves and many ornamental buttons on front. It was also made as a home wear to be worn it alone at home. In 18th century, the length of the vest became shorter compared with that of 17th century and the most important decorative item in clothes. It again came to have complete sleeveless vest style and had very short length reaching waist in the end of 18th century. When it was in 19th century, the vest had developed into more various style and colors and style had been applied to be worn by individuals with their tastes. Around the end of 19th century, the increasing tendency to be casual by industrialization influenced on clothes in all aspects of life and so the male vest has been gradually changed into more casual style. Nowadays, it has been developing into various uses in modern male clothes to show their characters.

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Development of a basic kimono sleeve - Focusing on the standard body type of Korean people in their thirties - (기모노슬리브 원형 개발 - 30대 표준체형을 중심으로 -)

  • Kwon, Soon Kyo;Uh, Mi-Kyung
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.224-236
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    • 2017
  • Kimono sleeves have continuously appeared in modern fashion as a design motif and this trend has become increasingly prevalent recently. However for research in the area of clothing composition for kimono sleeves in Korea, there has been a lack of development of master patterns based on basic data from the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people and finalized designs based on comparative experiments and analysis of pre-existing research Thus, there is no ideal master kimono sleeve pattern development research based on the examination of the results of the analysis of the standard body type of Korean people. Therefore by recognizing the importance of developing a master kimono sleeve pattern, this research aims to present a practical master kimono sleeve pattern for the standard body type of someone in their 30s. First, the four master patterns were collected and a dressing evaluation was conducted, and by selecting and improving one of these master designs, a final research master pattern was developed after a second dressing evaluation. Through this research, it was possible to design a master kimono sleeve pattern appropriate both externally and functionally for the standard body type of someone in their 30s, which has not been a consideration in previous research.

A Study on the Wedding Veil (Kyung)(2) (경, 경의에 관한 연구(2))

  • 임명미
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.5
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    • pp.129-144
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    • 2002
  • Kyung(경, 경의), Which is Wedding ceremonial head dress, Veil. Ancient China, When dynasty is changing, wedding head dress form is different. Old china, Kyung(경) was sleeves attached dress form. But, after Dang(당) and Song(송) Dynasty changed square formed clothes, which is put on from head to the shoulder, and another is sleeves attached dress form. Ancient Korea have been face covered clothes. Myunuei(면의). from Buyo(부여) to the south Silla(남국신라) Dynasty. Koryo(고려) dynasty. likeness of the Song Dynasty square formed head wear, Mongsu(몽수), and Kedu(개두). When Chosun(조선) Dynasty, Kyunguei(경의), which was square formed 12 chuk size head wear of the blue colored veil. When King and Queen finished wedding ceremony in the another palace, Queen following the King, so to the palace. who put on the wedding veil, Kyungui(경의) , in the papanquin. and take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also Chosun dynasty has been another Queen's wedding ceremonial veil 'myunui (면의)'. It has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Juckui(적의) . And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also. common people has been put on the head dress with ceremonial dress Youmui(염의). And. take out of the veil by another mother. before the hapkun(합근) ceremony. also common people has been put on the Mongsuui(몽수의,장의). head dress with ceremonial dress round neck dress. And, take out of the veil by another mother, before the hapkun(합근) ceremony.

A real-time robust body-part tracking system for intelligent environment (지능형 환경을 위한 실시간 신체 부위 추적 시스템 -조명 및 복장 변화에 강인한 신체 부위 추적 시스템-)

  • Jung, Jin-Ki;Cho, Kyu-Sung;Choi, Jin;Yang, Hyun S.
    • 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2009.02a
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    • pp.411-417
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    • 2009
  • We proposed a robust body part tracking system for intelligent environment that will not limit freedom of users. Unlike any previous gesture recognizer, we upgraded the generality of the system by creating the ability the ability to recognize details, such as, the ability to detect the difference between long sleeves and short sleeves. For the precise each body part tracking, we obtained the image of hands, head, and feet separately from a single camera, and when detecting each body part, we separately chose the appropriate feature for certain parts. Using a calibrated camera, we transferred 2D detected body parts into the 3D posture. In the experimentation, this system showed advanced hand tracking performance in real time(50fps).

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Improvement of generation capacity per unit site area by the optimization of photovoltaic array (태양광어레이 최적화에 의한 단위 부지면적당 발전량 개선)

  • Kim, Eui Hwan
    • 한국신재생에너지학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2011.05a
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    • pp.109.2-109.2
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    • 2011
  • A photovoltaic system is getting the spotlight for a environment-friendly energy source. But its location is limited because a lot of land is necessary for photovoltaic arrays. Nevertheless, its dissemination is rapidly increasing more than 40 % every year and exceeded about 400 MW in 2009. The radical growth of a photovoltaic system aggravated a lack of sites, so that forests and farmland were destroyed. It is demanded to make use of a vacant lot or little piece of land for the way to solve the lack of sites and improve the location requirements for a photovoltaic system. General photovoltaic arrays are consist of a single layer structure and needs enough separation distances to maximize the amount of solar radiation and to eliminate influences by the shadow of other arrays. So that a large amount of land is required for the site. The solar cell arrays with long separation distances can not be placed in a small vacant lot and its site application efficiency is low. This study optimized photovoltaic arrays as multilayered structure with movable sleeves for the efficient photovoltaic in a small site. The existing photovoltaic arrays with a single layer structure were fixed or tracking systems. In this experimental equipment, photovoltaic arrays attached to the multilayers have rectilinear movement and rotary motion using sleeves. Therefore, shadow influences were removed and the generation capacity was improved. On the simulation result, generation increased by about 30% in the same site considering shadow influences and so on.

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A Comparison of the Use of Multicolored Stripes in Tibetan Folk Costumes and the Traditional Korean Saekdong

  • Kim, Ji-Soo;Na, Young-Joo
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.91-102
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    • 2019
  • Tibet has a long history and many traditions that feature colorful costumes. This study analyzes the similarities and differences in the use of multicolored stripes in the Korean Saekdong (색동: stripes of many colors) and Tibetan folk costumes. The analyses were done within the framework of Tibet's cultural and religious background and the characteristics of the region's traditional costumes. For this study, literature and photographs from books and the Internet that record the history of Tibet's traditional costumes were analyzed. The results show that the use of various colorful stripes was common in the Bangjeon (帮典) apron, one of the greatest costumes in Tibetan history. A Bangjeon is made of wool of multiple colors and has horizontal lines as compared with the silk Saekdong's vertical lines. In addition, they have a multicolored striped band on the sleeves which reminds one of the traditional Korean jacket with its Saekdong sleeves. However, these multicolored stripes appear in more parts of the Saekdong (such as the hemline and front collar) when compared with contemporary Korean costumes. Moreover, the multicolored bands are noticeable in several ornaments from the time, which suggests that Tibetans and Koreans were very fond of using multicolored stripes. Costumes from the Goguryeo (高句麗) dynasty indicate that Tibetans, like the Mongols and Manchus, were very similar to Koreans as they had multicolored garments and Paji pants in common.

The Study of Women's Rdady-made Wears in Korea -Mainly with Blouse- (여자 개성복에 관한 연구(II) -봄철 blouse를 중심으로-)

  • 현순옥
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.11-19
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    • 1981
  • The purpose of this study were: (1) to ascertain the labels, (2) to investigate the designs and materials of blouses, and (3) to analyze the prices. The period of observation was from April 1st to May 10th, 1981. The interviews with related producers and saleswomen and a questionnaire were used for this study. The questionaire was made with items after finishing the pretest. The observation of six observers was made in markets(group D). B), commercial agents manufactures (group C), and bontiques group D). For the statistical analysis, 120 blouses were used among 154 blouses which were examined. The results of this study indicated that: (1) Blouses with labels were 56.7% by group A and 100.0% by group BC and D. (2) In the styles of blouses, box style was popular I four groups. (3) Among various types of sleeves, set-in sleeve was popular in four groups. The most sleeves were finished with cuffs. (4) The shirtwaist collars were popular in group AQ and B, rippled collars and chinese collars I group C, and rippled collars I group D.(5) In thee materials of blouses, polyester was poplar I group A and B, polyester/cotton in group C, and cotton in group d. (6) The prices of blouses were from 4,500 to 15,000 won in group A, from 5,000 to 37,300 won in group B, from 12,500 to 52,000 won in group C, and from 30,000 to 90,000 won in group D.

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