• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권3호
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.

• 콘크리트학회논문집
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.516-524
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• 2001

여러가지 철근이음 방법중에서 고강도 모르타르 충전식 철근이음은 철근위치의 오차를 쉽게 흡수하여 시공이 용이하고 또한 최근에 많이 사용되고 있는 대구경 철근에 대해서도 적용성이 양호하기 때문에 프리캐스트 공법의 철근이음 방법으로 매우 유효한 수단이 된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 모르타르 충전식 철근이음법의 적용범위를 보다 확장하기 위하여 슬리브에 매입되는 철근직경이 상이한 경우와 충전 모르타르 강도를 700kgf/$\textrm{cm}^2$대로 낮춘 경우의 모르타르 충전식 철근이음에 대한 단조 및 반복가력 구조성능 실험을 실시한 후에 기존 실험결과와의 비교 분석을 통하여 다음과 같은 결론을 얻었다. 충전 모르타르 압축강도가 증가할수록 전체적인 구조성능은 증가하는 경향을 나타내었고 충전 모르타르 압축강도가 700kgf/$\textrm{cm}^2$이상이고 철근정착길이가 6.5d 이상이면 A급(AIJ 철근이음 성능 판정기준) 이상의 구조성능을 보유하고 있는 것이 확인되었다. 또한 슬리브 양단에 매입되는 철근의 직경이 상이한 경우는 굵은 철근에 대응되는 슬리브를 사용해야 하고 매입되는 가는 철근은 굵은 철근보다 2단계까지 가는 것을 사용할 수 있다는 것이 확인되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권2호
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• pp.308-318
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• 2007

This study aims to survey the satisfaction level with the fit of ready-made suits(jackets and pants) among adult males and thereby to show its differences by the age group and body type. The respondents to the questionnaire survey were 465 males, aged 20 through 59 years. The conclusions are as follows: 1. The average satisfaction level for the fit of each item ranged from 2.65 to 3.57, with the higher level found in jackets than in pants, and also in circumference parts than in length parts 2. The satisfaction level for the fit by the age of adult males showed inter-group differences in the parts of jacket length, sleeve length, shoulder width, sleeve openings, and sleeve band width for jackets; and pant length of pants. 3. The satisfaction level for the fit by the body type of adult males indicated into-group differences in chest circumference of jackets only. 4. The satisfaction level for the fit, with the exclusion of the age and body type relationship showed that adult males are affected more by the age than by the body type. 5. In the repair frequency by the item, pants(45.6%) showed a higher level than jackets(24.7%). The parts with a high repair level by the item were jacket length(8.4%) and steeve length(19.8%) for jackets; and pant length(42.4%) and waist circumference(8.4%) for pants.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.1059-1067
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• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제46권2호
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• pp.250-271
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• 2022

Traditional wedding dresses have had a high market demand in China in recent years. Traditional wedding dresses from the Tang dynasty occupy an important position among traditional Chinese dresses, and they are also favored by young women. This study was conducted to develop the rushan and qun patterns of traditional wedding dress styles from the Tang dynasty for women in their twenties in China. For this purpose, the rushan and qun patterns of Tang and Song dynasty dresses and modern traditional dresses were collected and analyzed. Additionally, the developed patterns were validated for suitability through appearance evaluations of virtual and real fittings. The following proportions of the developed patterns were proposed: H/3.3 for rushan length, H/33 for collar width, H/1.08 for total sleeve length, H/6 for sleeve width, H/8.5 for sleeve hem width, and H/1.55 for qun length. In addition, the developed patterns received high scores in the appearance evaluations of the virtual and real fittings. Therefore, the developed rushan and qun patterns are expected to have high utility in the current traditional wedding dress industry.

• 한국방재학회 논문집
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.67-73
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• 2011

본 연구의 목적은 공기 단축과 초기 공사비를 절감하기 위해 PC 긴장재를 사용하지 않고, 슬리브와 일반 철근만으로 구성된 경제적이면서 시공성이 우수한 프리캐스트 교각 공법 개발에 있다. 이를 위해 본 연구에서는 신형식 철근이음 장치인 그라우팅형(形) 슬리브(Splice sleeve, 이하 슬리브)를 제안하고 최적의 슬리브를 개발하기 위하여 슬리브 길이, 철근직경, 양생방법 등을 변수로 하여 유한요소해석 및 인장실험을 수행하였다. 슬리브의 유한요소해석을 통하여 최적의 형상을 도출하였으며, 인장 성능 검토 결과, 철근의 인발에 의한 파괴는 발생하지 않았으며, 철근의 인장 파괴 혹은 슬리브의 기계적 결함에 의한 볼트 파단만이 관찰되었다. 제안된 슬리브는 우수한 인장성능을 갖고 있음을 확인하였으며 프리캐스트 교각에 무리 없이 적용할 수 있음을 검증하였다.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.5-11
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• 2012

The Buckling of the member under compressive stress is likely to occur, which is an important factor determining the strength of structures. The objective of this study was to evaluate the member buckling strength of a circular hollow steel with ball joints and to compare with design specifications for load resistance factor of our country. Furthermore, we would like to suggest basic data for evaluation of buckling length of a circular hollow steel with ball joints according to comparative analysis. These results were summarized as follows: Buckling stress according to the test results on buckling was 1.21 times greater than LSD specifications of our country estimated the entire length of circular hollow steel with ball joints as buckling length. In addition, it was 1.16 times greater than when estimating the length except the ball as buckling length and 1.14 times grater than when excluding the ball and sleeve. Therefore, when estimating buckling stress of circular hollow steel with ball joints, their buckling length may be measured by the length except ball and sleeve.

• 복식
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• 제64권3호
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

본 연구는 신한복 철릭 원피스에 대한 선호도 조사를 통해 추출된 신한복 철릭 원피스 디자인의 신한복 철릭 원피스 원형을 개발하고자 하였다. 이를 통해 신한복 철릭 원피스 생산의 기초가되는 패턴에 관한 정보를 제공하고자 하였다. 시판 철릭 원피스 패턴 비교에서 우수한 것으로 선정된 D패턴을 변형하여 실험의 패턴을 제작하였다. 패턴에 대한 외관평가 분석에는 SPSS 26.0 프로그램을 활용하였다. 외관 및 의복압에 대한 1차 평가 결과, 어깨, 소매길이, 치마길이, 소매통의 수정이 요구되어 소매길이는 8.0cm를 줄이고 소매통은 총 1.0cm를 줄여 주었다. 치마길이도 5.0cm를 줄이고 어깨끝점을 양쪽에서 0.5cm 안으로 들여 어깨폭을 줄여 주었다. 2차 평가결과, 허리부위, 소매통, 치마 주름에 대한 수정이 요구되어 허리 2.0cm, 소매통 1.0cm를 줄여 주고 앞중심과 옆선 부위 주름을 제거하여 최종 패턴은 높은 평가를 받았다. 1차, 2차, 3차 간에는 유의미한 차이가 있었다. 향후 연구에서는 소재와 연령에 따른 철릭 원피스 원형 연구와 실제 제작된 의복의 착의실험을 통한 연구가 이루어져야 할 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.155-165
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to investigate on the sleeve form variation according to arm movements for elderly women. This study was experimented using the Plaster gypsum. The subjects who were elderly women were divided into three groups according to Rorher Index. Arm movements were five type ($0^{\circ},\;45^{\circ},\;90^{\circ},\;135^{\circ},\;180^{\circ}$) to each the vertical motion in front and in side. The statistical analyses used in this study were Mean, Standard Deviation, Spearman's correlation coefficients, paired T-test, Kruskal-wallis one-way ANOVA and Duncan's multiple range test. The results were as follows: 1) Increasing the movements, the width of the sleeve increased and the height of the sleeve cap decreased but girth of the sleeve cap was not consistant. 2) When varied the rates of the three aspects of the sleeve, the height of the sleeve cap showed the largest variation rate. 3) There was a negative correlation between the height and the width of the sleeve. On the other hand, there was a positive correlation between the sleeve width and the sleeve girth. 4) There were the vertical motion differences between in front and in side on the three aspects of sleeve. 5) The sleeve width and the sleeve girth were different according to somatotypes but the height of the sleeve cap was not different. 6) According to the variation rates of the body surfaces in length of standard lines, the form of sleeve was changed more in the front than in the back. Maximum variation rate showed in the areas of $D_1-D_3,\;E_1-E_3$ in the horizontal lines and $A-E_2$ in vertical lines. 7) According to the comparative drawing of the heights of sleeve cap and sleeve girth, the sleeve basic pattern $S_1(A.H/4)$ was more suitable for the direction $0^{\circ}\;and\;45^{\circ}$. And the basic pattern S_6(A.H/5)$ was more suitable for the direction $90^{\circ}$, the pattern $S_7(A.H/6)$ suitable for the direction $135^{\circ}$, and the pattern $S_8(A.H/8)$ was more suitable for the direction $180^{\circ}$.