• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.71-77
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• 2007

Shoe's size and shape are determined by the last that takes shape of foot because last is the mold of shoe in development and manufacturing process. Then adaptation between foot and shoe is dependent on the last. In mass shoe production, model size is developed in the first place, other sized lasts are made through the grading process based on model size. The most important factor in grading system is grading deviation that must be same amount induced from foot measuring database. At present, most of the last manufacturing companies in korea using 260mm as a standard foot model size. When length grading deviation is 5mm, the ball girth grading deviation is 3.7mm and the ball width grading deviation is 1.2mm. I verified existing grading system by comparing grading results with foot measuring data. Also, I proposed reasonable grading deviation and application method of grading system. From the analysis of foot measuring database, reasonable grading deviations are 1.22mm in ball width and 0.84mm in ankle height in case of length grading deviation is 5mm. I confirmed that the current grading system is very accurate. When we grade last from 230mm to 290mm by current grading system based on model size 260mm, there is grading error over 1mm in the front outside area of foot. This error level of 1mm is no problem in normal walking shoe's last, but it induces adaptation problems in sports and special purposed shoe's last. Therefore using of three standard model size is recommended in grading men's last for reducing grading deviation error under the level of 1mm. It is specifically described as 235mm in 225-245mm, 260mm in 250-270mm, 285mm in 275-295mm. According to the above recommended grading system, it is enough to measure only three foot sizes in case of foot measuring project for men's last development.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.11
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.55-64
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the grading practices and size systems of women's apparel industry in Korea and thereby, analyze the grading problems to find their solutions. Compared with other pattern producing processes, the working principles and methods of grading seem to be consistent, repeatable and stable. Therefore, if the grading deviation setting and working method should be standardized and systematized, it is much easier to automate the grading work than other pattern works. Nevertheless, it was found through this study that grading deviation setting or its application depending on body forms or age groups is not systematic. Moreover, since size identifications, basic sizes or intervals differ among apparel businesses, consumers may be confused in selection of the apparels fitting their body forms. Thus, it is deemed necessary to precisely analyze consumers' body sizes and determine on grading gains or losses in consideration of the body forms.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.771-778
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• 2009

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with fatty body shape especially for them with abdominal obesity. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Middle-aged women slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the abdominal obesity. The subjects in this study was over $25kg/m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 0.8 of WHR. A total of 176 Middle-aged women satisfyingthem were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The majority segment is 85-94 size accounting for the 11.36% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 11 size from three groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape and age specific grading rule. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.194-202
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• 2010

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with Obese body shape. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Junior-High School Girls' slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the obesity. The subjects in this study was over 23 kg/m2 of the BMI. The subjects were 124 Junior-High School Girls of 12 to 14 year-old. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 5%, was classified 8 cases. The majority segment is 76-97 size accounting for the 11.29% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 8 size from two groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.111-125
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• 2007

By examining the existing Galot products in the market, we aimed to discover areas for new development and lay out the foundational system for establishing a database(DB) of their pattern grading. For the analysis, the team focused mainly on Galot in forms of casual korean traditional clothes, since they have the largest market share. The main accomplishments from this research are as follows. First, because adult females are the largest segment to consider in deciding the size system for grading, we selected three sizes that have to be compatible with the KS Clothing Standardized Sizing. Second, for basic pattern grading, we applied the reference size indicated in KS Clothing Standardized Size, and also used half dart sloper and dartless sloper. Third, we categorized designs according to the presence or absence of a dart, the structure of closure, and the shape of the sleeve and neck. We indicated the grading points with numbers and body area in Korean to make it easier for the users to understand when using the computer system and doing manual work. To further increase the user convenience, we provided diagrams for categorized designs, pattern grading layout, and a table for calculated grading points variation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.377-391
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to research grading work according to the targets of women's wear manufacturers in Korea. For the questionnaire, 91 women's wear brands, which were in higher ranking of sales, were selected, and the age groups were separated into 3: 20's, 30's, and 40's & 50's, according to their customers. The graders of each brand were questioned about 20 items for this research. The results of the questionnaire were as follows: 1 The brands for older women manufactured more sizes and cared more about somatotypes fur grading than other brands did. 2. For upper garments on the basis of bust girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 7 for 30's, and 7 for 40's & 50's. 3. For lower garments on the basis of hip girth, the numbers of dimensional increments were different depending on the age groups: 9 for 20's, 6 for 30's, and 5 for 40's & 50's. 4. As a model size of grading, many brands used the smallest size, but the brands for 40's & 50's also used the second size. 5. The parts needed to be corrected after grading were sleeve ease, armhole, shoulder line, neckline, crotch curve, etc. The grading with CAD system had more correction after grading than hand grading.