• 패션비즈니스
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Fabric made of 100% silk was dyed with Undaria pinnatifida extracts under different conditions such as varing colorant concentration, temperature, time and dyebath pH. The dye uptake (K/S, value), CIE L*,a*,b* and Munsell values of the dyed samples and mordanted samples were measured. Colorfastness, antibacterial property and UV protection property were also evaluated. As colorants concentration increased, the dye uptake increased progressively and maximum color strength was obtained at 100% V/V. Dye uptake also increased with increasing temperature and time, and the maximum color strength was obtained at $80^{\circ}C$ and 60min. With pre-mordanting, the color of the Al and Fe mordanted silk fabrics was yellow on the Munsell color system, while the Cu mordanted fabric was a greenish color. Al and Fe post-mordanted fabrics had a yellow tone, and the Cu post-mordanted fabric had a yellow greenish tone. The light fastness property of the Cu mordanted silk fabric was relatively good, The effect of Al and Fe mordanting on fastness was insignificant. The antibacterial activity of dyed and unmordanted silk fabric was excellent, whereas fabric dyed and mordanted with Undaria pinnatifida extract demonstrated superior ultraviolet protection.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.194-205
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• 2013

In this study, we report dyeing properties and functionality of cotton and silk fabrics dyed with methanol extract from Juniperus chinensis heartwood. Non-aqueous dye of Juniperus chinensis heartwood extracted with methanol was expressed reddish color. It showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Dye uptake of cotton and silk continued to increase according to the increase of the dye concentration. Cotton was not affected by the dyeing temperature and time, however, dye uptake of silk was increased as the dyeing time and temperature were increased. Dye uptake of cotton and silk were the highest at pH 8 and pH 6 respectively. Dyed fabrics showed various colors depending on mordant types and mordant concentration. Washing, light and perspiration fastness were not good. However, rubbing and dry cleaning fastness showed relatively good grade. Dyed fabrics of ultraviolet-cut ability and deodorant ability were improved. Also, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9%.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.154-156
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• 2005

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2003년도 International Exhibition and Workshop
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• pp.18-18
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• 2003

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.108-112
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• 2016

Silk has been used extensively in textile applications because of its good luster and feel. However, the low elongation and elastic recovery of silk has limited its use in a wider variety of textile applications. In this study, silk textile samples were made with a highly twisted silk/polyurethane core-spun yarn. They were immersed in water and dried at different temperatures, and the effect of treatment temperature on the mechanical properties of the silk textile was examined. It was found that the water temperature strongly affected the morphology and mechanical properties of the silk textile, whereas the drying temperature did not. As the water temperature was increased, the weft silk yarn became tangled and the interval between warp yarns decreased, resulting in shrinkage of the silk textile. When the silk textile was immersed in water at high temperature (i.e., $100^{\circ}C$), the elongation of the textile increased eight-fold as compared to an untreated silk textile. The maximum elastic recovery ratio of the silk textile was 96.7%.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제18권6호
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• pp.1315-1321
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• 2009

The chemical composition of natural powder dye $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark and dyeability of dyed silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$ were examined. It is made up of the optimum dyeing condition of silk fabric according to the dyeing concentration, dyeing time, and dyeing temperature. Also, we examined the colorfastness and antibiosis of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light. For the analysis of the chemical composition of $Pinux^{TM}$, the total contents of phenolic compound, proanthocyanidin(PA) and anti-oxidative activities of the dye were analyzed. As a result, it was found that the main components of the $Pinux^{TM}$ manufactured from Pinus radiata bark is proanthocyanidin, mostly a flavonoid containing a procyanidin structure, and it consists of approximately 63% phenol. As a result of examining the dyeability of silk fabrics with $Pinux^{TM}$, it showed that the dyeability was best under the conditions of the concentration of dye $1{\sim}1.5%$(wt/v%), dyeing time of 90 minutes, and dyeing temperature at $90^{\circ}C$. It was found that the colorfastness of dyed silk fabrics, colorfastness to washing, perspiration for acidic and rubbing were as good as grade 4 or 4-5. However, the colorfastness to light was low at grade 1, the same as the results of other natural dyed fabrics. As a result of the antibiosis measurement for the $Pinux^{TM}$-dyed silk fabrics, it showed high antibacterial properties to Staphylococcus sureus at 99.6%.

• 복식
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• 제57권8호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권3_4호
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• pp.473-484
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• 2002

The physical characteristics of silk and wool fabrics dyed with OFS-FR and SM-FR were examined and color difference and colorfastness of these fabrics were analyzed. The results are as follows; 1. The thickness, density and weight of both dyed fabrics were increased than those of undyed fabrics independently of dyeing materials and mordants. 2. Air permeability of all the silk samples increased than that of undyed silk, on the other hand, air permeability of most of wool samples decreased than that of undyed wool. 3. Thermal insulation values of silk samples were not consistent with dyeing conditions, but those of wool samples increased than those of undyed fabrics regardless of dyeing materials and mordants. 4. Color difference was clear between OFS-FR and SM-FR dyed fabrics. The colors dyed with OFS-FR-Al and OFS-FR-chitos an showed violet, those dyed with SM-FR displayed yellowish, in addition to in case of wool, dyed with OFS-FR-Cu the color was greenish yellow, in case of silk dyed with SM-FR-Cu that was yellowish red. 5. Sense of silk fabrics by sensory-test was soft and smooth. Feeling of colors in silk fabrics was wick, warm and slightly brilliant. In case wool, sense of dyed fabrics was slightly soft and slightly rough. Feeling of colors in wool fabrics was warm but not elegant. Therefore the result of sensory-test in silk might be better than that of in wool. 6. Colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspirations was good, but that to washing and sunlight was not fine.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.425-435
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• 2006

한국 실크산업은 수요 감소와 경쟁의 격화로 인해 심각한 도전을 받고 있다. 본 연구에서는 실크산업의 현황을 이해하고 그 경쟁력을 정확히 파악하기 위해 경남 진주지역의 대표적인 실크생산 업체들을 방문하여 설문 및 심층면접조사를 수행하여 관련 기업들의 운영상의 문제점들을 조사하였다. 그 결과 대부분의 경영자들이 제품디자인과 소재에 관련된 개발 필요성은 많이 이해하고 있었으나 기업 운영관리상의 문제에 대해서는 중요성을 충분히 이해하지 못하고 있음을 파악할 수 있었다. 연구결과 국내 실크산업의 경쟁력 회복을 위해서는 공급과잉상태인 한복지 생산기업들을 양장지, 수출용 원단 등의 생산기업으로 유도함으로써 산업 전체의 생산능력을 조정할 필요가 있으며, 원가의 절감과 재고의 감소, 소량 주문 추세 등에 대응할 수 있도록 공급체인의 유연성 증대가 필요한 것으로 나타났다. 또한 공급체인에서 유통업체들과의 협력체제의 구축과 정보의 교환을 통한 마케팅 능력의 향상이 필요한 것으로 나타났다.