• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.163-175
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• 2007

This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was $53.4{\times}22.5/cm^2$ the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.

• Acta Via Serica
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.53-82
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• 2022

The Hebrew word for silk, meshi, is mentioned in the Bible only once and there is a possibility that the item to which it referred was made of local wild silk. Although Jewish historical sources from the Roman and Byzantine periods mention silk many times, only a few silk textiles have been discovered at a sited dated to the Byzantine period (4^th-7^th centuries CE). The word "silk" occurs in the New Testament, although only once. A turning point in the history of the Negev (Southern Israel) occurred around 400 CE when it underwent a period of prosperity related to the advent of Christianity and pilgrimage, which enabled the purchase of imported silk textiles. The Early Islamic period (7-8th centuries CE) yielded four (out of 310) silk textiles from Nahal 'Omer on the Spice Routes joining Petra, in the Edom Mountains of modern Jordan, and the mercantile outlets on the Mediterranean Sea, notably Gaza and El Arish. The most important silk textile assemblage in the Southern Levant was found near Jericho at Qarantal Cave 38 and dates to the medieval period (9th-13th centuries CE). Linen textiles decorated with silk tapestry originating in Egypt date back to the 10-11th centuries CE. Mulham textiles - silk warp with hidden cotton wefts - were discovered in the medieval fortress on Jazirat Fara'un (Coral Island) in the Red Sea, 14 kilometers south of Elat and today located in Egypt. Mulham is mentioned in literary sources of the ninth century in Iraq and Iran, whence it spread through the Islamic world. The article will present aspects of the origin, transmission, and exchange of these textiles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.191-213
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• 2023

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.39-52
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• 2010

Interests in creating three-dimensionally designed fabric materials are growing rapidly in the sectors of the fashionable textiles with the creativity, new functions, and aesthetics. A number of finishing methods have been developed and proposed to add or create new functions and designs for silk fabrics. Due to the strong hydrogen bonds between the molecules of silk fibroins, the thermal treatment methods used in thermoplastic fiber processing, which can easily deform the synthetic filament fabrics to endow three-dimensional appearance to the fabrics, are not applicable to the silk fabric treatment. In order to modify the fine structure of silk fiber, neutral salt solution treatment methods have been suggested. In this study, the effect of the calcium nitrate solution on the physical and mechanical properties of silk fabrics was investigated by using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) equipment. Based on these findings, relationships between parameters, for example, the thickness and the compressional energy, the thickness and the compressional linearity, and the air permeability and the pore area statistical analysis were investigated. The relationships between the process parameters such as treatment temperature/time and the resulting fabric property parameters were also analyzed by using several SAS procedures.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권4호
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• pp.506-513
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• 2013

Rubia cordifolia L (Indian madder) contains red color purpurin (65-67%) and yellow color munjistin (10-12%) as well as nordamncanthal (9-10%). Purpurin is a traditional red dye. The purpose of this research is to increase the dyeability of silk and light fastness of dyed silk fabric. We dyed silk fabrics after pretreatment to remove the yellow component of madder using various solvents such as ethyl acetate, ethanol, methanol, chloroform, and acetone. The total K/S value was the highest in the case of chloroform and reflectance was the lowest at the red color region from 470nm to 530nm. Chloroform dissolved the yellow color of Rubia cordifolia; in addition, we found that the total K/S value increased and the ${\Delta}E$ value decreased by chloroform pretreatment for silk dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.598-605
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• 2001

The study that has been conducted is the consideration of the durability of dye, antibacterial activity, and deodorizing effects of cotton and silk textiles dyed with a botanical dying material that has been used in various ways over the years as Korean diet and folk remedies, the pomegranate. 1. The results of the K/S value of dying according to the types of mordants of textiles dyed with pomegranate extract the following have been discovered: The increase of K/S value of dying of the silk textiles appear to be higher than that of the cotton textiles. Next, silk textiles that have been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ appear to be at the highest. 2. The results of the color change measurement show a difference of color can be noticed according to the types of mordant. As opposed to those textiles that had been only scured textiles, all of the dyed textiles appeared to turn yellow. 3. Textiles that had been treated with $K_2$Cr$_2$O(sub)7 recorded the highest durability according to the colorfastness to light results. In the case of the cotton textiles colorfastness to washing, all appeared to show exceptional results of 3rd class or higher, excluding the textiles that had been treated FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$. However silk textiles recorded relatively low classes of below 3rd to 4th class. For the colorfastness to washing of pollution, the results for both the cotton and silk textiles were excellent at class 4-5. The results of colorfastness to perspiration, colorfastness to rubbing, and colorfastness to dry cleaning showed comparatively exceptional results of 3rd to 4th class or higher when it came to dyed textiles. 4. According to the measurements of antibiosis, dyed textiles that had been treated with SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ appeared to show an exceptional bacterium decrease of approximately 70%. 5. According to the deodorizing measurements, dyed silk textiles appeared to have a higher deodorizing effect than cotton textiles. As for cotton textiles, those that had been treated with FeSO$_4$.7$H_2O$ and in the case of dyed silk textiles those that had been treated SnCl$_2$.2$H_2O$ recorded the highest deodorizing effect.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.113-129
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• 2003

This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.370-379
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• 1989

In previous paper, the optical behavior of coloring matter of Cromwell under several conditions were investigated. In this paper, the fading behavior of color solution extracted from Growell by methanol, dyeing properties of this color on the silk fibers in water and methanol, the three property of color of dyed silk fabrics, and fading behavior of dyed silk fabrics with Cromwell color under light and washing were discussed.