• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1981

Silk textile finishing has been studied for many years by many workers in order to meet more utilities for various endusers. Such studies, however, could not be successful because any natural fibers are hardly change their natures by artificial treating methods. Textile finishing is of course to improve the mechandise qualities and the poor natures of silk so that it may be available as the best textile fiber in the world. Sometimes, famous trade marked textile plays more power than its quality in the silk market, nevertheless, this should be over line of research activities. Meantime, the silk demand has been also transferred from ladies stocking to other clothes since nylon or other synthetic fibers were developed. That is why, the extension of silk demand should be developed by various research works. Specially, silk is known as difficult textile to handle it during washing or ironing process which happened to depress down the silk usage for house wives. In order to solve such problems, the reporter has been worked for many years and now, he believes that he has developed a proper finishing method to coversuch problems. The developed finishing method may be said to eligible with economical aspect and shorten the dry duration after water washing in half against normal silk textile without harming the specific silk nature. As all of us know, silk fiber starts to denature since it was spinned by silkworm and the fiber is formed as overlapped "S" type curves during its concooning process. After it is made as raw silk or sericin silk, it shows as straight line form, but it changes in to waved form in case refining or degumming process in order return to its original spinned form. Such nature is continued during its textile form and ends with hard ironing nature than other textile fibers. Mean while, the silk fiber keeps to continue its denaturing and this is iniciated by repeat of washing and drying which takes many years to reach its final stage, The reporter has found the iniciating denature of silk by his finishing process, with out heat, decreasing the swollen nature which ended with shortening the drying duration after wash. Each washing was carried out by soaking the previously weighed sample in cold water for one hour, then pressed the sample for ten minutes to eliminate its free water component before weighing with same condition. According to this, the treated silk showed much denaturing after the finishing, but the standard silk progressed the denaturing by and by with the repeat of washing and drying, finally reached the same swollen degree of treated silk, Such treating result explains that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other that the treated silk happened to be stebilized nature by the treating immediately. On the other hand, standard silk may reach to such condition by the time of worn out clothes after repeat of washing and drying for many years while the clothes will be no more useful. The decreased swelling nature has brought about the drying period in half against standard silk after all. Not only the tests of tenacity and elongation but also crease resistance recovery, stiffness and shrinkage tests were carried out after each washing and drying which he has found better result on the treated silk textile against the standard silk. The most important thing was to keep the textile feeling of silk by such finishing work before improve any poor nature of silk. The general silk has a nature to absorb smoke or dirt from its surrounding air and reaches to dirty color shade upon such exposure, but the treated one has improved such nature because of its artificial denaturing, another word, it keeps clean longer than the normal silk. Many previous finishing works could improve some specific nature of silk, but it happened to deprave other important natures. The reporters work is, however, specialized to improve the silk to be useful as Wash and Wear Silk without harming its standard natures. So far, this work happened to be a overall innovative finishing method of silk textile.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.785-798
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• 2004

Silk has always been coveted as the finest and richest of all fibers woven into cloth. The earlist woven silk fragments found to date come from the third century B.C. The filament created and spun into cocoon by the larva of the silk moth, silk was exported from China to Europe from as early as the third century B.C. Silk industry is export leading industry that guide national textile industry development after the 1960s in Korea. Korean silk industry reached to peak at 1975 is displaying appearance that export scale is decreased recently. Various kinds methods can be proposed for high value added in silk industry, the research about color is essential. The importance of color is increasing in modern textile and fashion industry. Color is important factor of textile and fashion industry because color affects strong influence in human's sensitivity. Silk fabric can give high added value developing high sensitivity color because dye ability is superior. In this study I planned the "Utility Silk Color Code 288" for efficient color management in silk industry. "Utility Silk Color Code 288" are attached the Munsell notation and dyeing data which can reappear the color when needed. This research constructs for insufficient domestic color infrastruction and expect that basic role to develop the competitive power for Korean silk industry.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.138-143
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• 2016

In the present study, silk fibroin (SF) was dissolved in $CaCl_2/H_2O/EtOH$ solution at $85^{\circ}C$. After the dissolution, the SF solution was cooled down and stored at $4^{\circ}C$ for 28 d. The stability of the solution's viscosity and electrospinnability was observed to examine the stability of SF molecules during storage in $CaCl_2/H_2O/EtOH$ solution. The viscosities of $SF/CaCl_2/H_2O/EtOH$ solution and SF formic acid solution did not change during 28 days' storage of SF in $CaCl_2/H_2O/EtOH$ solution. The electrospinnability of the SF solution, mean diameter of the electrospun SF fiber, and crystallinity index of electrospun SF web did not change, regardless of the length of the storage period. These results imply that SF molecules do not degrade during 28 days' storage in $CaCl_2/H_2O/EtOH$ solution.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.113-118
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• 2013

In this study, silk sericin films were prepared using different extraction methods, and the molecular conformation of sericin was examined using Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection geometry. Additionally, the effect of the film side (air-facing side or plate-facing side) on the molecular conformation of the sericin films was investigated. Interestingly, the molecular conformation of the sericin film depended on the film side. The molecular conformation of air-facing side of the sericin film was significantly influenced by extraction solution and time. The ${\beta}$-sheet crystallization and the crystallinity index of the sericin film markedly increased with an increase in the extraction time in hot water. The order of the crystallinity indices for the sericin films obtained with different extraction solutions was as follows: citric acid solution > urea solution >> hot water. In contrast, no remarkable differences were observed in the molecular conformation of the plate-facing side of the sericin film after extraction in hot water for different time periods. Urea and citric acid solution extractions showed remarkably higher crystallinity indices for sericin than those obtained after hot water extraction. However, no significant differences were observed in the crystallinity index of sericin between urea and citric acid solution extraction in plate-facing side of the film.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.224-232
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• 1998

Protease is mixtured in detergent to remove protein-soil easily. It must not act on the any fiber except protein-soil during laundry. So the purpose of this study is to investigate how protease is affect the fiber, particulary the protein-fiber. For this purpose, silk, wool and nylon are selected as samples, and the extent of the damage was estimated as tensile strength and surface condition (that is fibrillation). The results are as follows. The tensile strength of fiber treated with protease were lowered at enzyme concentration 0.1%, temperature 4$0^{\circ}C$ , and, as washing time was longer, it was lowered more. And it was showed that the surface of fibers were fiblliated by protease during washing. From this results, it was found that protease damaged protein-fiber. The damage of silk was the largest of all, and wool was less damaged than silk, because it has the scale (cuticle) on the outside. Additionary, an influence of surfactant on damage of fiber was little about three fibers, but, the fibers were damaged more by the binary nonionic-surfactant and protease mixture than by protease only.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.23-32
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• 2016

This study examined the dyeability of fabrics dyed with rosemary, mint, sage, and thyme herb extracts. The herb extracts were pulverized and characterized by UV and FT-IR analysis. Dyeing properties of herb colorants on cotton, silk and wool fiber and effect of dyeing conditions on dye uptake were compared. The constituents of four different herbs were shown to be similar to each other. The dye uptake of rosemary and sage were shown to be larger than those of mint and thyme regardless of the fiber types. Affinity of herb colorants to protain fibers was higher than to cellulose fiber. Compared with silk and wool, the dyeability of cotton was the worse, the dye uptake of silk and wool fibers were increased along with dyeing time and dyeing temperature. As the dye uptake increased with increasing of the dye concentration, and its isothermal adsorption curves were langmuir type, indicating that ionic bonding was involved in the adsorption of herb colorants to the fibers.

• Applied Microscopy
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• v.50
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• pp.16.1-16.11
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• 2020

Silk is produced by a variety of insects, but only silk made by terrestrial arthropods has been examined in detail. To fill the gap, this study was designed to understand the silk spinning system of aquatic insect. The larvae of caddis flies, Hydatophylax nigrovittatus produce silk through a pair of labial silk glands and use raw silk to protect themselves in the aquatic environment. The result of this study clearly shows that although silk fibers are made under aquatic conditions, the cellular silk production system is quite similar to that of terrestrial arthropods. Typically, silk production in caddisworm has been achieved by two independent processes in the silk glands. This includes the synthesis of silk fibroin in the posterior region, the production of adhesive glycoproteins in the anterior region, which are ultimately accumulated into functional silk dope and converted to a silk ribbon coated with gluey substances. At the cellular level, each substance of fibroin and glycoprotein is specifically synthesized at different locations, and then transported from the rough ER to the Golgi apparatus as transport vesicles, respectively. Thereafter, the secretory vesicles gradually increase in size by vesicular fusion, forming larger secretory granules containing specific proteins. It was found that these granules eventually migrate to the apical membrane and are exocytosed into the lumen by a mechanism of merocrine secretion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.517-523
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• 2003

We studied the physical properties of silk fabrics after degumming, the dyeability and the color fastness of silk fabrics after degumming and sericin fixing. As the sericin was removed from silk fabrics, the rate of weight loss increased and both the abrasion resistance and the drape coefficient decreased. This means that the amount of the sericin remained in silk fabrics significantly affects the physical properties of silk fabrics. On the surface and the cross-section of silk fabrics, the silk fibers enclosed by the sericin seemed to be in a lump shape. Each fibroin strand, however, got scattered, as the process of degumming went through. The dyeability of silk fabrics degummed decreased at between 20$^{\circ}C$∼80$^{\circ}C$ the dyeing temperature, on the other hand, it significantly increased over 80$^{\circ}C$. The dyeability of the sericin-fixed silk fabrics was lower than that of the non-serin-fixed silk fabrics, to a little extent. The colorfastness of crocking in the dyed-silk fabrics was a little low and that of the sweat was much lower in a basic sweat. Especially, the colorfastness of the partially degummed silk fabrics was low, because the sericin was not stable in the condition of sweat. Therefore, the process of sericin fixing is essentially required, for the partially degummed silk fabrics and the process of degumming itself.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.73-82
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• 1996

The photochromic dye(spiroxazine, Blue) as a susceptible material was synthesized by condensing 1-nitroso-$\beta$-naphthol with indoline. The melting point of the synthesized spiroxazine dye was 254$^{\circ}C$. Irradiation with ultraviolet light had effect on reversible coloration reaction. The photochromic dye microcapsules were produced by in situ polymerization using urea-formaldehyde prepolymer. The average diameter of the microcapsule was 2.94$\mu$m. The dyeability and washing fastness of the photochromic microcapsule fibers were increased by the pretreatment of cationic agent.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.113-119
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• 2005

In our previous study, the color development characteristics in the dyeing of silk fibers and PET fibers using Rhusjara ica and related properties were meticulously reviewed. At the same time, the fabric specimens were endowed with chitosan treatment prior to the dyeing procedure in order to investigate the effect of chitosan on the dyeing behavior. The analysis of the colors only, however, would not give us complete elucidation of the effect of fiber characteristics and the mordanting characteristics. In this study, the effect of chitosan and metal mordant treatment in dyeing of silk and PET fabrics using Rhusjara ica has been studied. The change of air-permeability, wash fastness, and light fastness were also investigated.