The gilt-bronze Sarira Reliquary was discovered when repairing three-stories east stone pagoda (Treasure No. 395) at Seungju-eup in Suncheon city in Jeollanam-do Province in August, 1986. Then it was appointed as Treasure in 1988. The Sarira Reliquary had been held in Seonamsa temple, but deterioration on the surface and corrosion had appeared affecting its surface detail. Consequently, the conservation treatment was carried out from November 2002 to March 2003.The corrosion and dirt on the surface of the Sarira Reliquary were cleaned with ethyl alcohol and Benzotriazole was applied to prevent further corrosion. Finally, NAD-10(Paraloid NAD-10), acrylic resin, was used to consolidate the structure. Moreover, after non-destructive analysis to confirm element of alloy, copper, gold, silver and mercury were discovered and this result tells us that it was plated with gold by amalgam. Fibers at the pedestal were examined under the microscope and identified as silk. The total height of this Sarira Reliquary is 6.0cm, the height of lotus pedestal and the roof is 2.7cm and 1.8cm, respectively. The roof and body are joined together, and the lotus pedestal can be separated, on which the octagonal reliquary is impaled. The pedestal consists of 3layers of petals and the surface is decorated with flower pattern. The reliquary is presumed to be created in the 14th century, and it becomes valuable historical material to reveal the secret of metal work in the late Goryeo Dynasty.
The purpose of this study lies in analyzing the characteristics of the carbonized textile fabrics and to know the carbonizing mechanism. Samples were Jiyo excavated from the grave of Mrs. Hansan Lee as the wife of Jinju Kang at Daeduk-gu, Daejon, and black fragements assumed as of the outside material of cotton skirt and black dusts collected out of Jikryung for official dress. The composition and status of the fiber were clarified by means of Microscopic FT-IR and both cross sectioanl and side parts of the fiber were observed using the technique of scanning electron microscopy(SEM). Finally EDS analysis was carried out to qualitatively analyze inorganic ingredients contained in the carbonized fiber. As a result of FT-IR measurement, characteristic peak was very strong around $1625cm^{-1}$ and could be found even between 2500 and $2300cm^{-1}$ because of a high-molecule pigmental substance, melanine. When SEM photography was applied to the fractions, the tissues were identified as silk fiborine through the observation of their side and cross sectional parts. SEM-EDS measurement indicated that both the cotton skirt and Jikryung for official dress contained a high proportion of inorganic substances such as Si, Ca suggesting the existence of silicide and calcium carbonate.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.22
no.6
/
pp.772-780
/
1998
The purpose of this research was to investigate the fiber content of and the characteristics of non-fibrous matters within the textiles exhumed from Keumreung-Ri, Pajoo of Kyunggi-do. Various microscopic methods' and the IR spectroscopy were used for the identification of fibers. The KS K 0251 Test Method as well as the IR spectroscopy and the SEM were used for the analysis of econ-fibrous matters. Fiber identification showed that each of the Pajoo samples were composed either of silk, cotton, or ramie. The results of the analysis of non-fibrous matters were as follows. The amount of water-extracted compound exceeded that of chloroform-extracted compound in both Pajoo 2 and Pajoo 5 samples. In Pajoo 5 sample which have already been dry cleaned using the mixed solution of n-hexane and n-dacane, the amount of chloroform extracted compound was 0% of the total extracted matter. The enzyme and HCI disintegration steps further removed the soils those were nonsoluble in water or chloroform. The most extraction was achieved at the HCI extraction stage.
Rayon fiber as clothing material has silk-like property which relates to other synthetic fibers. It has many advantages that is required to women's clothes. However rayon has many shortcomings. Therefore this research is to spin rayon-like polyester which has high contraction property to be synthesized by previous research to solve those shortcomings and to maintain advantages of rayon. The contraction ratio of regular polyester is 30% and the contraction ratio of this synthesized polyester is over 60%. The spinning temperature of regular polyester ranges from $285^{\circ}C$ to $300^{\circ}C$. However, this copolymer is set range from $270^{\circ}C$ to $290^{\circ}C$, which is $10^{\circ}C$ less than regular polyester due to decreasing melting temperature. The spinning velocity effects the tensile strength and elongation of yarn magnificently. The high velocity of spinning makes yarn highly oriented, increases the tensile strength and decreases the elongation. This research defines the condition as following; draw ratio 2.734, First roller temperature $85^{\circ}C$, Slit heater temperature $175^{\circ}C$.
Traditional tie-dyeing is widely implemented in the clothing handicraft culture in China, South Korea, and Japan. Since it was developed 2,000 years ago, it has become a popular method of fabric making in the world and is highly respected by fashion designers. Based on the existing traditional tie-dyeing methods, this study conducted specific research on the 3D printing technology of the SLS laser method and the micro tool design application method of the clamp-dyeing process. Through the experimental methods of this study, it proposes to use the "7000 Nylon" material, which is commonly used in 3D printing, to develop a new clamp-dyeing tool. This new tool can be widely used in the clamp-dyeing of fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, silk, and some chemical fibers. The applied method and principle can be consistent with the traditional clamp-dyeing method. Therefore, the innovation of tie-dyeing technology is the best protection measure for the development and inheritance of traditional fabric making. The continuation of artistic life needs originality, which is also the best response to market competition. At the same time, this new design of the clamp-dyeing tool has the characteristics of novelty, innovation, and rich changes, which aligns with the new fashion demands of current fabric design.
Park, So Hyun;Choi, Hye Song;Kim, Jung Heum;Choi, Jeom Bok;Lee, Na Ra
Journal of Conservation Science
/
v.34
no.5
/
pp.319-331
/
2018
The collection of the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea, features a sansu folding screen that was created in 1940 to commemorate the sixtieth birthday of Soseok Kang Jin-Koo. It was created by six oriental painters, who were among the ten best painters in that era. The folding screen has been previously repaired and restored; however, owing to damage such as twisting of its wooden frame, abrasion, and moisture stains, rigorous conservation treatment is required. Hence, scientific research was conducted to analyze the textile, paper and pigments employed while creating the folding screen, to identify the associated material properties. Results showed that the textile used in the screen's picture and janghwang comprise synthetic fibers and natural fibers such as cotton and silk. Various types of papers were used in the folding screen, such as those from mulberry, herbaceous, and coniferous fibers. Furthermore, calcite deposits were found on the base of every picture, and certain colors employed by the artists appear to be produced from different pigments.
The intent of this study was to focus attention on the relationship between curtain fabrics and consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. This study consisted of the laboratory test for thermal transmittance of selected fabrics and the exploratory survey for consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies. The objectives of the laboratory test were to measure fabric's thermal transmittance, thickness, and count which affect to the effect in heat controlling. Selected 23 fabrics were tested at Korean Yarn and Fabrics Testing Inspection Institute. The objectives of the exploratory survey were to determine sociodemographic factors; the stage of family life cycle, the economics status, and homemaker's level of education, and physical factors; the type of houses, the direction of windows, and the type of windows, affect consumer perceptions toward curtains and draperies. Questionaires were administered to 489 homemakers selected by a stratified propotional sampling plan, in Seoul in October, 1981. Data from responses were analyzed by T-test(Analysis of Varience) and Partial Correlation. The major findings are as follows; 1. The results of the laboratory test 1) The fabrics used for draperies had higher effect in heat controlling than the fabrics used for glass curtains. 2) It did not show much differences among the fibers in heat controlling. The thicker fibers, however, had the higher effect in heat controlling among same fibers. 3) The fabrics which had high level of effect I heat controlling were corduroy, flax, rayon, nylon, acetate, thick polyester, and thick polyacrylic. The fabrics which had midium level of affect in heat controlling were velveteen, velvet, and thin polyester. The fabrics which had low level of effect in heat controlling were cotton, silk, and thin polyarcylic. 4) The draperies with lining showed 2∼5 times more effective in heat controlling than the draperies without lining. 2. The results of the exploratory survey Consumer perceptions towards curtains and draperies consisted of functional, financial, and aesthetic perception. 1) Factor affecting functional perception towards curtains and draperies was the stage of family life cycle. Families in the contracting stage considered function of curtains and draperies significantly better than those in others stages. 2) Factors affecting financial perception towards curtains and draperies were the economic status, homemaker's level of education, the direction of windows, and the type of windows. However the correlation between the factors and financial perception was too low to explain the significance of tendency. 3) There was not any factors affecting aesthetic perception towards curtains and draperies.
This study was conducted in order to find out the tendency of sericultural woman's clothes. This data was based on random samples of 183 sericultural women throughout the country, and was derived from the investigation of c1othes (western and Korean-style) which had been made during the years, 1967∼1969. The results obtained are summarized as follows: 1. Western-style clothes were about twice as popular as Korean-style, and more evident among the young women. It was also shown that the ratioes mentioned above were gradually decreased year by year. 2. Most popular among the western-style clothes were blouses, one-piece dresses and skirts. Jogori(coat) and Cheema(long skirt) were favorites among the Korean-styled clothes. One-piece dresses showed increasing tendency of use year by year. 3. Costume-made clothes were much more in number than the home-made and the ready-made types. The home-made and the ready-made clothes increased as the ages increased. 4. Western-styled clothes were popular in summer seasons while Korean-styled clothes were popular in the winter time. Among the western-styled clothes one-pieces dresses and two-piece suits were most popular during the spring through autumn. In Korean clothes the Cheema was popular all year round. 5. Western-style clothes were mostly made of polyester and their blends. Silk was the least used fabric. On the contrary, most of Korean-style clothes were made of silk and their blends. The synthetic fibers showed increasing use year by year. 6. Favorite colors were in order; white, blue, brown, and black in western-style clothes; white, blue, green, and gray were in Korean style clothes. Young women teaded to have a wider preference of colors than the older women.
Recently, in this department, pressure-displacement curve and breaking tension of dog and human tympanic membrane were studied using intact, fresh or dried tympanic membrane attached to external auditory meatus. However, physical property, proper elasticity-Young Modulus, of the tympanic membrane has not been clarified yet. Present study is attempted to further clarify proper Young Modulus of tympanic membrane, and to distinguish possible difference between layer of stratum radiatum and layer of stratum circulare of tympanic membrane in breaking tension and in Young Modulus. Tympanic membrane was excised from sacrificed dog, and preparation was made into the size of approximately 1 mm in width and 3 mm in length. In fresh or dried tympanic membrane, which was dried at $80^{\circ}C$ for 24 hrs., some preparations were made along the long axis parallel to the fibers of radial direction, and others were made along the long axis perpendicular to the radial fibers-circular direction. Breaking tension and displacement according to loading, were measured and Young Modulus was calculated in tympanic membrane preparations under the different experimental conditions. Results obtained are summarized as follows : 1. Young Modulus of fresh tympanic membrane in radial direction was $6.57{\times}10^8\;dyne/cm^2$, and that of fresh preparation in circular direction was $1.68{\times}10^8\;dyne/cm^2$. The Young Modulus of fresh tympanic membrane in radial direction resembles to that of silk and whale moustache. In dried tympanic membrane, Young Modulus of preparation of radial direction was $30.2{\times}10^8\;dyne/cm^2$ and that of preparation in circular direction was $25.0{\times}10^8\;dyne/cm^2$. 2. Breaking tension of fresh tympanic membrane was 44.9 gm/mm in radial preparation, and 7.9 gm/mm in circular preparation. In dried tympanic membrane, breaking tension was 46.7 gm/mm in preparation of radial direction, and 17.2 gm/mm in preparation of circular direction. 3. Much smaller breaking tension of the circular preparation-one fifth to the radial preparation-seemed to be responsible for the higher incidence of circular fiber breaking in tympanic membrane performation caused by trauma or sudden change in atmospheric pressure. 4. The correlation seemed to be very close between breaking tension and Young Modulus in tympanic membrane.
The ultrastructure of the excretory duct of the large ampullate gland in the orb web spider, Nephila clavain L. Koch are studied with light and electron microscopes. The excretory ducts of the large ampullate glands connected with the large spinning tubes(spigots) on the anterior spinnerets are basically composed of three superposed types of the layers which are inner cuticles, monolayered epithelial cells and peripheral connective cells. According to the morphological characteristics of the cuticles and internal textures of the epithelial cells, the long excretory ducts are subdivided into three(distal, middle and proximal) portions. Especially, at the distal portion of the ducts near the spinning tubes, the electron lucent subcuticles which had the functions of water removal and orientation of silk fibers are well distributed, whereas at the middle and proximal portions these layers disappeared and instead of these, endocuticles are developed. The endocuticle contains two types of bands, which are electron dense and electron lucent. And along the length of the cuticular stem in the excretory duct, these two alternating bands are twisted spirally. In the cytoplasm of the columnar epithelial cells of the distal portion, rough endoplasmic reticula and Golgj complexes, related to the production of the cuticular materials are well developed. Between the adjacent epithelial cells, specialized septate junctions and desmosomes are formed along the plasma membranes. At the proximal portion of the duct, densely accumulated secretory materials appeared, and these are released to the inner canal by the apocrine secretion.
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