• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.5-16
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• 2000

This study attempts to examine compound weave among silk fabrics of Cho-Sun Dynasty. These silk fabrics have colorful patterns. They can be classified into two types by their texture structure one is called polychrome woven silk of which structure is plain or twill fabric : another is called satan damask of which structure is stain fabric. Their texture structure consist of warp and weft. In addition. there are other types of warp and weft for pattern structure ; various twill structures were used for patterns. A variety of colorful threads, including gold and silver ones. are used fur patterns in them. The brocaded-type fabric was primarily developed during Won Era of China. It was most developed in Ko-Rye Kingdom. During that era flat strip was used the most but its length was usually not long enough to finish one pattern. However, wrapped thread was increasingly used during the middle and later period of Cho-Sun Dynasty due to the development of weaving technology for gold thread. The brocaded-type fabric was produced in Korea and it was also Imported from China according to some record. There are some domestic empirical documents that show the names of imported Satin Samite, Brocaded satin and these are good evidence to prove the nationwide use of the cloth during Cho-Sun Dynasty. The density ratio of warp and weft is almost same except Samite in the third and Satin with flower motif in the second period is most density among them. C·F of Brocaded satin with Mang motif in the third period values the highest price. Brocaded satin, used with both gold and silver threads, is thickest.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.478-485
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• 2012

The dying properties of fabrics with Chaenomelis Fructus extract were studied through an investigation of the characteristic of Chaenomelis Fructus colorants, the effect of dyeing conditions (dye temperature, dyeing concentration, and times on dye uptakes), effect of mordant, effect of UV irradiation, and color change in addition, antimicrobial ability and deodorant ability were estimated. In the UV-Visible spectrum, the wavelength of maximum absorption of Chaenomelis Fructus extract was 280 nm and showed that tannin is the major pigment component. From the increase of absorbance by UV irradiation, it was assumed that catechol tannin color was developed through UV irradiation. An increased dyeing concentration resulted in a larger dye uptake. Dye uptake increased as the dyeing time and temperature increased. Chaenomelis Fructus extract showed relatively good affinity to silk than cotton. Mordant, Fe and Cu were effective to increase the dye uptake of cotton fabric in addition, the dye uptake of silk fabric mordanted with Fe and K improved. UV irradiation let the color of dyed fabrics develop regardless of the UV irradiation stage however, UV irradiation on the dyed fabric was more effective than on the extract for the color development. Dyed silk fabric showed very good antimicrobial abilities of 99.9% in addition, deodorant ability improved in the fabric dyed with Chaenomelis Fructus extract.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.8-18
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• 1994

In one bath dyeing system of silk/cellulose acetate fiber blend fabric with acid /disperse dyes, adsorption behavior of acid dyes and disperse dyes on silk and cellulose acetate fabrics were examined. In the dyeing of cellulose acetate with C. I. Disperse Red 19(Red 19) and C. I. Disperse Red 60(Red 60) at 8$0^{\circ}C$ and 10$0^{\circ}C$, dye uptake with Red 19 was higher than that with Red 60. When the silk/cellulose acetate dyed with Red 19 and Red 60 at 10$0^{\circ}C$, dye uptake on cellulose acetate was influenced by affinity of the dye to the silk fabric dyed together. When the silk/cellulose acetate dyed with Blue 80/Red 19 and Blue 80/Red 60 at 10$0^{\circ}C$, color of cellulose acetate dyed with Red 19 and Red 60 was not influenced by Blue 80 but silk dyed with Blue 80 was influenced by Red 19 and Red 60. Interrelation of K/S value and Munsell value was scarcely any but showed the change tendency of K/S value.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.20-25
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• 2005

The colorants were extracted from black soybean using a buffer solution. Dyeing properties and the fastness of silk fabric dyed with black soybean extracts were investigated. K/S values of dyed fabric were increased with concentration of black soybean extracts. Magnesium sulfate, nickel sulfate and calcium chloride as mordants are used to obtain reddish purple color. Optimum dyeing temperature of black soybean extracts was $30^{\circ}C$. Fastness were generally good except for light fastness which was extremely poor.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.778-784
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• 2004

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with natural gardenia blue powder was investigated. The sum of K/S values was increased with increasing the amount of gardenia powder up to 20%,(o.w.b.). The proper time, temperature and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with gardenia blue powder were 60~80 minutes, $80^{\circ}C$ and pH 4, respectively. The B and BG colors were obtained according to various mordanting methods, mordants and mordant concentrations. The various colorfastness were not improved by mordanting. The colorfastness to light was poor, but the colorfastness to dry cleaning and washing were good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.2 s.27
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• pp.133-144
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• 1988

Silk fabrics were degummed and dyed in one bath under the condition of high temperature and high pressure and the results obtained were summerized as follows. 1. The degumming ratio is nearly the same as that of two bath method under the normal condition and the optimal condition is for 30 minutes at $120^{\circ}C$. 2. The dyeing absorption ratio is a little lower than that of two bath method. 3. The tensile strength and elongation are hardly shown the difference between two methods. 4. The fastness of the dyed fabric of one bath method is a little better than that of two bath method. (light, washing, rubbing) 5. The stiffness of the silk fabric treated by one bath method is a little harshier compare to that of two bath method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.542-546
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• 2005

This study was investigated to establish the optimum conditions of dyeing silk fabric with Brassica campestris. This experiment was done under different dyeing conditions of dye concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, dyeing repeating times, and mordants which were treated pre, syn, and post methods. The effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting were evaluated in terms of dyeaffinity(K/S value) and CIE-Lab color factors. Also, the effect of mordanting on color fastnesses was assessed. The dyeaffinity increased remarkably as dye concentration increased up to 200% owf. The dyeaffinity increased continuously with dyed temperature and reached dyeing equilibrium at $80^{\circ}C$. The maximum dyeaffinity was observed at 30minutes of dyeing time. In the relationship between the K/S value and dyeing repeating times, the K/S value became higher as repeating time was increased. The changes of surface color and colorfatness of dyes were not increased greatly on all mordanting states. The extracts of Brassica campestris produced mainly yellow color in silk fabric. The antimicrobial activity existed slightly as the ratio of 22.7%.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.37-50
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• 1998

The goal of this suudy is to investigate the production and distribution of silk fabrics of the CHO-SUN Era. My conclusions culture was advanced as a result of its promotion by government authorities. It proceeded from south to north, and spread all over the country. The north became the center of the silkworm culture since cotton was cultivated in the south. Second, the production of silk fabrics proceeded by government orders at the beginning. But it proceeded by private enterprise at a later period. Since government-managed textile handicrafts began falling off during the 16th century, privately managed handicrafts were accomplished slowly. Third, at the same time as the introduction of natural cotton fabrics, the production of various fabrics in the CHO-SUN Era proceeded all over the country, and special production localities-formed. PYUNGAN-DO(평안도), HAMKYOUN-DO(함경도), HOANG HAE-DO(황해도), and KYUNG SANG-DO (경상도) were the main region of silk fabric production. Fourth, the silk fabrics were distributed through the capital markets and the province markets. And superior silk fabrics were distri-buted through the capital markets. And all sorts of low quality silks JU were distributed through the province market. Fifth, thus an abundance of superior silk fabrics was distributed in the CHO-SUN Era. But thequantity of production was not enough. And most of it was used in the Royal Court. The quantity of shortage was supplied by imports.