• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.216-222
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• 2005

This study was carried out to investigate the utilization of pruned branch of a peach tree as natural dyeing material. The dyestuff was extracted from pruned branch of a peach tree. we examined the dyeing ability on silk and cotten fabrics. The surface color of silk fabrics differed depending on mordants. E values in treatments of mordants ranged from 11.63 to 30.86 as compared to non-treatment. Dyeing properties of cotten fabrics were improved with a treatment of sulfate of iron as compared with of non-treatment. The values a increased when the slaked lime and sodium hydroxide were used as mordants, while the values b increased when copper sulfate, alum and apple vinegar were used. We investigated the surface colors of silk and cotten fabrics after washing three times. In general, the surface colors of silk and cotten fabrics between the treatments of all mordants and non-treatment were diminished by the washing. We also investigated the surface colors of silk and cotten fabrics when those were washed and treated by the light after soaking those into various pH solutions. The surface colors of silk and cotten fabrics were considerably preserved by the washing, the light and pH concentration. In conclusion, our results suggest that the dyestuffs from pruning branch of a peach tree would be useful as a natural dyeing material using the optimized conditions for silk and cotten dyeing.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.71-77
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• 2005

This study was carried out to investigate the utilization of pruned branch of a peach tree as natural dyeing material. The dyestuff was extracted from pruned branch of a peach tree. we examined the dyeing ability on silk and cotton fabrics. The surface color of silk fabrics differed depending on mordants. E values in treatments of mordants ranged from 11.63 to 30.86 as compared to non-treatment. Dyeing properties of cotton fabrics were improved with a treatment of sulfate of iron as compared with of non-treatment. The values a increased when the slaked lime and sodium hydroxide were used as mordants, while the values b increased when copper sulfate, alum and apple vinegar were used. We investigated the surface colors of silk and cotton fabrics after washing three times. In general, the surface colors of silk and cotton fabrics between the treatments of all mordants and non-treatment were diminished by the washing. We also investigated the surface colors of silk and cotton fabrics when those were washed and treated by the light after soaking those into various pH solutions. The surface colors of silk and cotton fabrics were considerably preserved by the washing, the light and pH concentration. In conclusion, our results suggest that the dyestuffs from pruning branch of a peach tree would be useful as a natural dyeing material using the optimized conditions for silk and cotton dyeing.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.1025-1034
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to examine the evaluation of fabric characteristics on the drapability, texture image and preference of blouse fabrics, and to analyze the effects of the texture image, objective and subjective drapability on the preference. As specimen, silk and polyester fabrics were collected. 52 female subjects evaluated 16 specimens with semantic differential scale of 18 fabric image and 20 sensibility. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlational coefficient using spss win 12.0. For the evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, weave type, weight and thickness were analyzed. The results were as follows: The evaluation results of objective and subjective drapability showed differences. Sensory image factors of blouse fabrics were 'surface smoothness', 'elasticity', 'weight' and 'flexibility'. Sensibility image factors were 'elegance', 'classic', 'characteristic' and 'mannish'. 'Elegance', 'classic' and 'characteristic' of sensibility images showed high correlation with 'surface smoothness' and 'elasticity' of sensory image, also 'mannish' of sensibility image showed significant correlation with 'weight' of sensory image. The significant fabric characteristics affecting objective drapability were density, weight, thickness. The significant texture image factors affecting objective drapability were 'weight', 'flexibility' of sensory image and 'elegance' of sensibility image. On the other hand, the significant factors affecting subjective drapability were thickness of fabric characteristics and 'elegance', 'characteristic', 'mannish' of sensibility images. 'Elegance', 'characteristic' and 'classic' of sensibility image, 'elasticity' of sensory image and subjective drapability affected on the purchase preference.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.476-484
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing properties and anti-microbial ability of silk and wool fabrics dyed with Terminalia chebula Retzius(TCR) extract using two extraction solvent, hot water and methanol. Dyeing properties of fabrics were studied by investigating the characteristics of colorant, changes in dye uptake under different dyeing conditions, and by investigating color change when mordants were applied. Also, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity of dyed fabrics were estimated. Regardless of extraction solvent type, colorant showed maximum absorption wavelength at 280 nm and 578 nm, which implied that tannin was the major pigment component of TCR. Also, through FT-IR spectrum result, it was confirmed that tannin of TCR methanol extract was hydrolysable tannin. But for the hot water extract, it was only assumed that its tannin was condenced tannin. Fabric dyed with hot water solvent extract showed higher dye uptake than fabric dyed with methanol solvent extract, dye uptake increasing by higher concentration of the dye, longer dyeing time and higher dyeing temperature. And the absorption curve between TCR extract and protein fiber was shaped in the form of Langmuir adsorption isotherm. Fabric dyed without mordant was yellow in color, and when dyed with mordant, fabric showed various colors depending on mordant types except Sn. Color fastness to washing was generally fine and color fastness to light was moderate. But color fastness to rubbing and dry cleaning was outstanding. Lastly, dyed fabrics showed very good antimicrobial activity of 99.9% against Staphylococcus aureus and Kiebsiella pneumoniae.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.129-136
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• 1993

Authors have studied the adsorption of anionic surfactant from detergent solutions on cotton fabric during washing process and have measured the concentration of the residual surfactant in rinsing solution. The relations with temperature and pre-soaking time to rinsing process have been studied. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate by various textile fibers has also been investigated. The results of this study are; 1. Three times rinsing is sufficient as, without pre-soaking, the concentration of the surfactant on fabric is stable from that time on. 2. The rinsing efficiency increases with temperature; at $25^{\circ}C$, $40^{\circ}C$, and $55^{\circ}C$, the concentrations of surfactant on the fabric after-rinsing are 68, 59, 51 mg/100 g of fiber respectively. 3. The longer the pre-soaking time, the lower the rinsing efficiency is; the 4hrs presoaked fabric shows increased surfactant concentration than the one without-soaking. And the increment is 35.8%. 4. The adsorption of sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate on fabrics differs greatly with the chemical nature of the fiber; wool, silk and nylon which are thought to be ionic-adsorbants shows greater adsorption. 5. The adsorption of surfactant is more affected by the ionic character than the physical one, and the one with higher crystallinity such as cotton and polyester shows lower value than rayon or acetate.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.147-153
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• 2021

Baekje patterned Pyojihwajomoonkeum is a fabric that expresses Baekje's unique culture possessed by Shosoin(正倉院) in Japan. Reflecting the close exchange relationship with the Chinese Southern Dynasties, these patterns are suitable as good examples to grasp the forms and atmosphere that prevailed during that era. Through the analysis of many pieces, it has been identified that the patterns were unique to Baekje. With an aim to ascertain and restore the original form of Pyojihwajomoonkeum, designs were proposed utilizing Pyojihwajomoonkeum as a form of storyteller clothing that fits the modern sense. Fabric was designed by continuously repeating the colors and patterns of Pyojihwajomoonkeum upward, downward, leftward, and rightward and woven with a Jacquard loom. The fabric woven was dried, processed, and used to make a total of four pieces of storyteller clothing consisting of men's wear, comprising a jeogori and pants, and women's wear comprising a jeogori and skirt. The top jacket was long enough that the hip is covered. It has wide sleeves and linear decorations were attached to the collar, lower edge of sleeve, and bottom hem. The pants are wide legged, the top is wide, and the bottom hem had linear decorations attached. What is the most important when using the original form of a traditional culture is processing the raw materials following cultural traditions to create value. Costumes of an era are the combination of individual elements and represent the culture of that era. Therefore, a consideration of the origin and prevailing ideas of the era must be considered. It is anticipated that this paper will serve as a basis for leading such a process, followed by studies on the utilization of the original form of Baekje culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.12
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• pp.1368-1373
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• 2003

본 연구에서는 견직물에 강경한 촉감을 부여하여 한복지 뿐만 아니라 현대의 패션경향에도 부합되는 소재를 개발하고자 하였다. 견직물에 강경성을 부여하기 위하여 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 이용하여 수지농도와 큐어링온도에 따른 수지부착율을 조사하였고, 여기에 수반되는 물리적 특성의 변화를 살펴보았다. 또한 가공된 견직물의 세탁에 대한 내구성도 살펴보아 동시에 실용가능성도 검토하였다. 이상의 연구를 통해 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 의마가공용 폴리우레탄 수지를 견직물에 처리할 경우 수지 농도가 증가할수록 수지 부착량이 증가하였다. 2. 열처리온도를 변화시켜 수지부착량의 변화를 살펴본 결과 열처리 온도가 증가할수록 수지의 부착량이 감소하여 본 실험에 사용된 수지의 적정 열처리 온도가 160-18$0^{\circ}C$인 것을 고려해 볼 때 견직물의 경우 17$0^{\circ}C$의 열처리 온도가 적절한 것으로 나타났다. 3. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치의 변화를 살펴본 결과 RT, EM, MIU값은 감소하는 경향을 가지며, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5값은 증가하는 경향을 나타내어 폴리우레탄 수지처리로 의마가공 효과를 갖는 견직물을 얻을 수 있었다. 4. 수지 처리된 견직물의 역학적 특성치는 물세탁 후에도 크게 변화가 없어 세탁에 대한 내구성을 지니고 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.7
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• pp.864-873
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• 2013

This study analyzed the correlation between the sources of the complaints and various factors such as gender, garment type, fabric type, textile material and washing methods for products. This survey utilized a total of 2,609 consumer apparel product complaint cases filed with the Korea Consumer Agency between 1997 and 2009. In regards to consumer liability: it was found that more incidents of failures due to carelessness were reported among men's clothes, knitted garments, cotton clothes, polyester clothes, wool blend clothes, pants, shirts, sportswear, and laundry only clothes. In regards to dry cleaner's liability: women's goods, woven clothes, silk clothes, cotton blend clothes, jackets, shirts and hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. In regards to manufacture's liability: women's clothes, woven clothes, wool clothes, silk clothes, wool blend clothes, polyester blend clothes, formal dress clothes, jackets, hanbok, and dry clean only clothes indicated problems more frequently. This study provides consumers with information necessary to take preventive measures and basic information that can be utilized to improve the quality of production and services by understanding the sources of dissatisfaction, type of clothes found with problems, and the main causes of consumer complaints for garment products according to who is liable.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.86-92
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• 2003

It is already known that the color of wool fabric dyed with disazo acid dyes could be changed in dyeing process and this is accelerated under alkaline condition. Focus was given to figuring out the mechanism of this color change, through the LC-MS analysis. In this study, no color change was seen in wool fabrics dyed with C. I. Acid Blue 113 under weak acidic, neutral and weak alkaline conditions for 1hour. However, the wool fabrics dyed under weak alkaline condition for a long time over 3 hours fumed reddish orange. When the wool fabrics dyed under weak acidic, neutral and weak alkaline conditions were treated with $0.5g/L\;Na_2C0_3$ solution, all of them turned reddish orange. On the other hand, the color of silk fabrics dyed with C. I. Acid Blue 113 were not changed after the same alkaline treatment. Wool contains cystine and cysteine, whereas silk does not. Due to the reversible reduction/oxidation process of cystine and cysteine in wool dyeing, the C. I. Acid Blue 113 of the dis-azo type is decomposed by reduction and consequently turned them into the reddish orange mono-azo types dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.667-675
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• 2013

After analyzing excavated $17-18^{th}$ century silk fibers through a scanning electron microscopy, we discovered seven different kinds of fracture morphology. Using Morton & Hearle fiber fracture morphology, we classified the findings into four different categories. Type I is tensile failure resulting from brittle fracture, granular fracture, and ductile fracture. Type II is fatigue failure caused by tensile fatigue, flex fatigue, and axial split (fibrillation). Type III is bacterial deterioration discovered only in excavated artifacts. Type IV is a combination of the three above. Humid underground conditions and the infiltration of bacteria caused the fibers to swell and weaken its interfibrillar cohesion. Fractures occur when drying and processing an excavated artifact that is already in a fragile condition. Therefore, one must minimize damage through a prompt cleaning process and make sure that the least possible force is exerted on the fabric during any treatment for repair and exhibition.