• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.145-154
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• 2002

1. The blended tabby whose warp and weft each employs a different kind of thread had been weaved since the era of the Three Kingdoms in this nation and since the period of Han in China. Especially in the 15th century. very finely weaved fabrics as the specialty of Chosun were exported to China. In the 16th century. blended tabby weaved with silk and cotton were often used for clothes as cotton was produced around the nation. And in the 17th century. blended tabby employing high quality Chinese raw silk other than existing ones were weaved. 2. It has been found in literature review that Honpo, one of Chosun's blended tabby. was manufactured mainly in Hamkyung, Cholla and Kyungsang provinces and mostly distributed through markets of Chungchong and Cholla provinces. 3. Out of the total 19 fabric pieces. 13 employed silk thread as the warp and cotton thread as the weft. Compared with the weft. in general. the warp is given more tension when weaved and more friction by spindles, being more likely to be twisted than the weft. In addition to starching, a stronger thread is requested as the warp. It is natural that in the Chosun period, silk thread more stronger than cotton thread was used as the warp to make more durable fabrics. For the weft requiring lots of threads when weaved. cotton thread was mainly used in the 17th century because the thread could be easily obtained at that time. 4. So far the study has made an empirical review of Chosun's blended tabby. especially those of the 15th∼17th century, in terms of their production and distribution. Findings from the study have some limit because they have been made focusing on the 15th∼17th century not the whole period of Chosun. Therefore it is needed to complement those findings through further studies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.412-423
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• 2016

This paper explores the possibility, and suggests an experimental procedure, of industrial application of traditional textile design techniques, such as hand silkprinting and natural dyeing. Theoretical and traditional background of this study is William Morris and his followers' Arts and Crafts Movement from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which laid the philosophical as well as technical foundations of modern textile design tradition. Based on the basic understanding of the design philosophy, and starting from the design techniques of Morris and his successors, I made some experimental and systematic color plans reflecting and exploiting the physical traits and structure of jacquard woven silk material fabrics. And I applied hand silkscreen printing techniques on the jacquard silk fabrics of my own making, while testing various color combinations of natural dyes. After finishing final processing of design samples, I could get textile design products which met the criteria of my original expectation, i.e., eco-friendly and aesthetic design samples that can also be produced in automatized mass production system of contemporary textile industry. The conclusion of this experimental study is that I can expect the natural dyeing techniques, jacquard silk fabrics design techniques, silkprinting techniques, and the basic processes used in this study to be safely applied for contemporary commercial textile industry utilizing automatized silkscreen printing system and digital printing devices.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.

• 보존과학연구
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• s.17
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• pp.65-99
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• 1996

We exanmined the each effect of $NO_2$ and $SO_2$gas, the maincomponets of air pollutants, on the deterioration of 6 organic materials with Gasexposure cabinet. The organic materials were used 2 kind of papers(Korean paper, Oldbook paper) and 4 kind of textiles (Cotton, Silk, Hemp, ramie) in gas exposure experiments. In order to know how to change of physical conditions, the materials were exposed to 2000, 1000 ppm. h of $SO_2$dose, to 100 ppm. h of $NO_2$ dose at 65% RH. The color difference, tensile strength, elongation coeffient, mass reduction and fabric status of each materials were discussed the following below.1. The color difference of cotton and hemp was larger than that of silk and ramie in the presence of $SO_2$ gas. and the color difference of korean paper was less than that of the textile materials in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.2. The tensile strength of cotton fell suddenly at 100ppm.h of $SO_2$ dose and even became 56% of the unexposed cotton.3. The weight of 6 materials began to decrease in the presence of $SO_2$ gas.4. The tensile strength and elongation of the materials tended to decrease at 12.5ppm.h of $NO_2$ especially silk was the strongest tendency to decrease.5. Cotton, hemp and ramie were influenced by $SO_2$ gas more than by $NO_2$, but silk were influenced by $NO_2$ more thang by $SO_2$ at 10ppm.h of each noxious gas.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.159-170
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• 2014

Recent concerns about the PFOA(perfluorooctanoic acid), have been increasing, which is generally applied in the water-repellent finishing process of textile products. It has been proven through animal testing to be harmful to humans, as possible carcinogens and neuro-toxic material. Thus U. S. Environmental Agency has gone as far as requiring the material to be eliminated in its entirety by 2015. As a viable alternative to this water-repellent finishing agent, the development of C6 product is gaining its popularity. The effects of PFOA finishing on the silk fabrics were examined, and we reviewed parameters of the needed process for optimizing appearance and functionality of silk fabrics treated with eco-friendly water-repellent finishing agent. Cross-linking agent affected the most on black color of reactive ink, among the physical properties. The contact angle reading was the highest in $8g/{\ell}$ of concentration for all fabrics. All the fabric specimens, subjected to the DTP and water repellent finishing, exhibited higher stiffness, where rayon specimen showed the highest, compared to the untreated specimens. The results may provide basic information leading to the development of value-added silk fabrics with water-repellency without excessive deterioration of the delicate appearance and inherent soft touch.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.5
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• pp.804-816
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• 2009

This study was aimed to analyze color characteristics of silk fabrics dyed with a variety of commercial natural dyes focusing on hue/tone system. Using eleven different natural dyes, single and sequential dyeing were performed under a variety of conditions of dye bath concentration, mordanting, and dyeing sequences. Color characteristics of dyed silk fabrics were investigated by Munsell's color notation of H V/C and PCCS (Practical Color Coordination System) tones. As results, most of yellowish natural dyes as principal shades in natural dyeing showed Y or YR for hue families while d, ltg, and g for tone, which agrees with colors frequently used in comtemporary apparel industries. As for single dyeing, some hues like R, RP, G, GY, and BG were found to have their own tones owing to the used natural dyes. For varying hues in natural dyeing, sequential dyeing is useful in that GY, G, and BG rarely appeared in single dyeing were frequently shown in sequential dyeing by combination of some dyes. In the other hands, mordanting may be employed for tone variation in that aluminum seemed to contribute to light and dull tones, copper to dull, and ferrum to garyish and dark ones. These results can be helpful to design colors for fashion fields by natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.224-232
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• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.270-282
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to inquire into lounge wear and Jeff Koons and to design lounge wear in which the works, Balloon Dog(1994$\sim$2000) and Hanging Heart(1994$\sim$2006), of Jeff Koons was applied. The concept of design was appealed as sensuousness, activeness, and comfort. The target of design was teens and those in their 20s. Knit or woven fabric in 100% cotton/silk and cotton blended was selected. The design had fitted silhouette and the items were bras, panties, pajama pants, shorts, robes, slippers etc. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 program were used for the design. In the lounge wear in which Balloon Dog applied, main color was red, blue, and green with pale tone and frills and pleats were selected for the details. Elastic blended fabric was used for the comfortable. Variety application of color and patterns were conducted for rhythmical visual. In the lounge wear design in which Hanging Heart applied, main color was also red, blue, and green with pale tone. Halter neck and robes were selected for the sexy looking. Cool and soft feelings were pursued through use of cotton and silk blended fabrics or stripes patterns. The result of this study may give valuable information to merchandisers and designers who develop lounge wear. It may also provide designers who use computer program such as Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop as design tools with useful examples.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.132-150
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to examine misnomers about King Heungdeok's "Prohibition of Clothing" by comparing the writings of Jeongdukbon [正德本] and Juzabon [鑄字本], which were different versions of the original texts of "Samguksagi [三國史記]", with 11 related books written between 1948 and 2012. In addition, this study is reconsidered the terms about several clothes as well as the values of fabrics. The study has come up with the following conclusions. 1. We suggested the correction about a misnomer in the 11 books and the misnomers for fabric items appeared most frequently. The records of Jeongdukbon about some of the items were different from ones of Juzabon, especially regarding noble woman's sash were written according to the record of Juzabon in most of the related books. However, when the commonplace woman's sash was taken into consideration, we could suppose that the record of Jeongdukbon was more reliable. 2. We examined the terms for Yodae [腰帶] and Yoban. It can be inferred from the original texts that the Yodae were different in material and function compared to the Dae [帶]. In other words, the wearing position of male's metal Yodae was the waist, whereas the females wore their Dae made of fabrics on their chest. An example of this can be seen from the female clay images of Tomb Yonggang-dong [龍江洞]. Moreover, female's Yo and Ban were distinct items on the basis of documents. For this reason, we suggested that Yodae and Yoban should be separated and written in books. 3. We suggested that Ju [紬, silk tabby] might be valuable according to an result of analysis about the value of recorded fabrics. Besides, Po [布, hempcloth] presumably were used as higher quality fabric than Myeonju [綿紬, silk tabby] on some items because Po was graded on the density by each class.